Endurance Race tunes... and a "small" problem

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Granozzo (NO), Italy
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burner94_
Hi all, I'm new to this forum, thought there could have been a better way to introduce myself but whatever, lol. Sidenote: I played most GTs (just didn't own GT5) and I kinda like what PDI did with the "human-ish length" endurance races for GT6 - real 24h races or so were senseless IMO, but there's a better place to discuss about this so I'll shut up and end the offtopic xD

Anyway, back on the track (literally...).
Super (endurance) class races. I beat those using just 3-4 cars.

For low-PP race car events, I used a LIGHT CAR COMPANY ROCKET.
-Max out all parts, set the power limiter to the maximum possible to match the PP requirements
-remove camber and toe (all to pure zero) to get stability
-no oil change or other GT Auto treatments
-(optional) fiddle around with gearbox (top speed adjustment only could do), but that's not really necessary since you won't pit that much, so you don't need uber-speed to keep the other racecars' pace.

This thing is insane - fuel consumption is awesome, and so is tire wear - didn't even need to pit once on the Nurburgring 24 minute race, which I also fully ran on Intermediate Racing tires even when the track started to dry out. Yeah okay, it started to feel slidy, but it still managed to win in B-Spec, even against a McLaren F1 Race Car! I'd suggest to switch to Racing tyres (any kind, preferably Soft since you'd run few laps) mid-race if you're gonna use it in A-Spec.

For the same races, if you want something less "thinking out of the box", try a bone stock MAZDA FURAI and buy some different tire compounds to get the max out of it even on wet surface. Great fuel economy and almost no tire wear here as well, since it's super light, much like the Rocket. Won the Suzuka endurance with no effort.

If you need more juice (e.g. against LMP cars), my car of choice would be the PESCAROLO C60 HYBRIDE - JUDD... either with Praiano's tune (which helped me win the Apricot Hill seasonal time trial as well), or simply with zero camber and toe, no GT Auto treatments and a mid RPM turbo (hi-RPM isn't my choice even if you could get it within 700pp with a small amount of limiting - even with TCS on, it'll most likely pop its tail out during hard throttling). Fuel economy ain't that good as on the other two, but pitting every two laps and switching from Intermediate Racing Tires to Racing Softs at the second pit-stop, it'll easily win the Le Mans 24 minute race.

//////////////////////////////////////

Anyway, I posted this stuff here for another reason. The 20-mile race at Willow Springs... which needs to be run with road cars. I started to fiddle around with "thinking out of the box" ideas, and I found people saying the MAZDA RX500 is awesome. And yes, it is. BUT...

...for some weird reason I can't seem to be able to make it handle decently on banked corners, it oversteers badly (even with TCS on) and it's nearly impossible to recover since it either ends up understeering in the gravel if you don't correct it, or weight-transfer-oversteering in the opposite direction if you try. So I'm asking if there could be a way to make this thing suited for this track. I'm looking for a SS tire setup since I'd like to enter the 20-mile Willow Springs endurance with it. Absolutely no problems with either tire wear or fuel consumption, and I guess that a customizable transmission with a 300 km/h top end could do (it even saves some spare revs if you want to draft or use N2O), but I can't figure out which suspension and LSD settings I should try to get the most mechanical grip out of this car... since you can't even add downforce to it. Any help would be appreciated... Thanks in advance :)

EDIT: Oh, I forgot to mention the RX500 I'm talking about has maxed out parts, thought it'd be obvious but never mind, lol.
 
Anyway, I posted this stuff here for another reason. The 20-mile race at Willow Springs... which needs to be run with road cars. I started to fiddle around with "thinking out of the box" ideas,
Congrats on trying the "out of the box" style cars, and like Bowtie suggested, if you post all parts you have installed and the setup used, one of us should be able to point out areas of concern in the tune. 👍
 
Thanks for the feedback guys! Didn't expect fast replies and most of all, didn't expect one from Bowtie xD

Well... For suspension and LSD I went straight off this. Actually handles better than with stock suspension and LSD, especially on banked corners (which seem to be the main problem with this car, along with corners with bumps).

NO OIL CHANGE, NO BODY RIGIDITY UP - just some nice +2" wheels and a Night Shade paintjob from the Nissan 2020 concept VGT.

TIRES

SS / SS

SUSPENSION (added CUSTOMIZABLE SUSPENSION and RACING BRAKES)

Ride height
80 / 80

Spring flexibility
6.87 / 7.42

Compression
6 / 3

Extension
5 / 5

ARB
5 / 6

Camber
0 / 0

Toe
0 / 0

Brakes
7 / 6

GEARING (added CUSTOMIZABLE GEARBOX)
I just set top speed to 340 km/h and that is all - works well on Willow Springs. Should be 212 MPH for those using Imperial system.

TRANSMISSION (added CUSTOMIZABLE LSD and TRIPLE PLATE CLUTCH)

LSD
30 / 12 / 18

POWER (added all max power upgrades and nitrous)

Nitrous
100% (OT: dang, didn't know some cars can have this set to 100 instead of 50. Whoa.)

BODY (added STAGE 3 WEIGHT REDUCTION and LIGHT WINDOWS)

Ballast
0 kg / 0%

/////////////////////////////////////////////

Car sits at 584 pp, 480 CV, 763 kg.

OT: There's a bug in the Car Settings window when using rotary cars -- in both Garage and Dealership the displacement figure indicates e.g. 491x2 cc (total displacement), while in Car Settings it just shows 491cc (one-cylinder- ahem one-rotor displacement)... weird.

OT2: Fixed my PSN account name, didn't remember if I had one or two underscores after "94", so I checked on my PS3 and apparently I screwed it up, lol.

PS: Sorry for some probably wrong part/setting names, I'm Italian and I don't know what those are called in the English version of the game...
 
Nice, first thing to try is rear compression, up to 5, if improved, go up 1 at a time until you overdo it. Try lowering rear ARB to 4, or 3. Help on flat but not so much on banks maybe.
Finally, LSD, initial is high unless you are using a wheel. Found in the FITT Ford challenge that that GT at Daytona with the banks did not like high numbers, caused understeer. Try lowering to something like 12/15 for initial and accel. I have not yet tried this car although it has been mentioned to me and is on my to do list. I'm just looking at the numbers and the weight/drive train. Try it and let me know if it hurts or helps. Can always look up @DolHaus as he may have tunes it.

One more thing, why wouldn't you expect me to respond? I try to be helpful when I can
Not sure if these will help, but can't hurt to try. :D
 
One more thing, why wouldn't you expect me to respond? I try to be helpful when I can

Well mostly because whenever I was just a newbie on most forums, oldtimers just didn't give a *censored* about what I posted, so it was kinda unexpected to me xD

Will try some of these once I turn my ps3 on next time (I rage quit just now because of a stupidly lost seasonal at Tokyo R246, meh that's gonna be hard, probably gonna talk about this in the relative section). Thanks a lot! :)
 
Well mostly because whenever I was just a newbie on most forums, oldtimers just didn't give a *censored* about what I posted, so it was kinda unexpected to me xD

Will try some of these once I turn my ps3 on next time (I rage quit just now because of a stupidly lost seasonal at Tokyo R246, meh that's gonna be hard, probably gonna talk about this in the relative section). Thanks a lot! :)
You will find this forum different then, many helpful people. We also try and welcome newbies since we were all there once.
 
Heh, that's very nice to hear! And that's true -- even oldtimers had been newbies back then, so I kinda can't understand why some people act like I said before... whatever. Let them alone :P
 
If the LSD adjustments help but don't fully resolve try Softening the rear of the car with no changes to the front. If you start to have understeer raise your front ride hight a few point 3-5 at a time.
Mid-exit snap oversteer is due to the tail been by too stiff 99% of the time.
 
Nice, first thing to try is rear compression, up to 5, if improved, go up 1 at a time until you overdo it. Try lowering rear ARB to 4, or 3. Help on flat but not so much on banks maybe.
Finally, LSD, initial is high unless you are using a wheel. Found in the FITT Ford challenge that that GT at Daytona with the banks did not like high numbers, caused understeer. Try lowering to something like 12/15 for initial and accel. I have not yet tried this car although it has been mentioned to me and is on my to do list. I'm just looking at the numbers and the weight/drive train. Try it and let me know if it hurts or helps.

Rear compression to 5, rear ARB to 4 and your LSD settings fixed this car completely. Thanks a lot! :D

Works just great even with stressful use in endurance races -- I found out that tire wear is a bit affected now, but still with a single pit (just for tires, fuel will last the whole race) you could easily win the 20-mile Willow Springs race... even with an opponent grid containing a Veyron, an Aventador and a MP4-12C which are almost 1.5x powerful (2x for the Veyron, but it's got loads of weight...). Updating the tune here as well, doubleposting it under here.
 
MAZDA RX500 '70
20-mile Willow Springs endurance tune (thanks Bowtie!)


NO OIL CHANGE, NO BODY RIGIDITY UP - just some nice +2" wheels and a Night Shade paintjob from the Nissan 2020 concept VGT.

TIRES

SS / SS

SUSPENSION (added CUSTOMIZABLE SUSPENSION and RACING BRAKES)

Ride height
80 / 80

Spring flexibility
6.87 / 7.42

Compression
6 / 5

Extension
5 / 5

ARB
5 / 4

Camber
0 / 0

Toe
0 / 0

Brakes
7 / 6

GEARING (added CUSTOMIZABLE GEARBOX)
I just set top speed to 340 km/h and that is all - works well on Willow Springs. Should be 212 MPH for those using Imperial system.

TRANSMISSION (added CUSTOMIZABLE LSD and TRIPLE PLATE CLUTCH)

LSD
12 / 15 / 18

POWER (added all max power upgrades and nitrous)

Nitrous
100% (OT: dang, didn't know some cars can have this set to 100 instead of 50. Whoa.)

BODY (added STAGE 3 WEIGHT REDUCTION and LIGHT WINDOWS)

Ballast
0 kg / 0%

/////////////////////////////////////////////

Car sits at 584 pp, 480 CV, 763 kg.

/////////////////////////////////////////////

PS: I found out that this car has a couple of bugs... first of all, the speedo in the interior view gets all the way right (i.e. reading last value, should be 180 or 200 km/h) when the car sits at 0 km/h (should be at bottom-left instead), but instantly turns 180° once it starts moving. Then, and this ain't noticeable with the car in stock form since it doesn't backfire, the right exhaust pipe just doesn't work at all... I don't know if this was intended or not...
 
Rear compression to 5, rear ARB to 4 and your LSD settings fixed this car completely. Thanks a lot! :D

Works just great even with stressful use in endurance races -- I found out that tire wear is a bit affected now, but still with a single pit (just for tires, fuel will last the whole race) you could easily win the 20-mile Willow Springs race... even with an opponent grid containing a Veyron, an Aventador and a MP4-12C which are almost 1.5x powerful (2x for the Veyron, but it's got loads of weight...). Updating the tune here as well, doubleposting it under here.
Glad to hear it helped ;)
 
You can use the Alpine road car (from the vision gt events) to get this very easily stock as well. The airbrakes help you save some tire wear and with SH and a single pit at 5 laps leads to a easy 11:20something time.
 
When I first golded this I actually used a fully tuned Charger (the new one, not the old muscle cars)... But it felt quite uncomfortable and needed to pit frequently. The Alpine VGT wasn't released when I was doing this event, but hey, it'll do. What about the Mercedes AMG VGT? Or Nissan 2020 concept VGT?
 
Keeping the weight down huh? Could try some superlights then, Lotus and stuff :) I even have a tuned Caterham but I guess that's a bit too much on the "light" side of things... xD
 
keeping the weight right. You don't want red tires in a enduro race. The first car I wont the willow springs race with was a McClairen F1 MP4-12c, drive it sensably and you can win easy with a pit on lap 6 on SM tires.
 
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