Expert series, valley mountain broke?

[Warpa]

Hi there, im trying to complete the last few races in the series that has the grand valley track as the starter, no matter what car i used i have zero grip. I tried my maxed out Ferrari on the vintage race and a gifted car on the other race (will clarify tomorrow as im posting this before bed a nd work)

Both cars behave the same, no matter what i do in settings niether can stop or go around a corner, its easier to rally or do a snow race so im thinking i must be doing something wrong?

Have altered ballast, break bias, tires, abs etc and none make a difference, whats going wrong?

 

[Aquarelle]

Can you tell us the exact setup you have put onto the car?

 

[GTsail]

Hi there, im trying to complete the last few races in the series that has the grand valley track as the starter, no matter what car i used i have zero grip. I tried my maxed out Ferrari on the vintage race and a gifted car on the other race (will clarify tomorrow as im posting this before bed a nd work)

Can you be more specific about which race Series you're having problems with?

Are you referring to the Historic Racing Car Cup and the Polyphony Digital Cup?

I recently re-ran the Polyphony Digital Cup Series and used a Nissan GTR Spec V '09 for both A-spec and B-spec, so you could give the Nissan GTR a try.

Respectfully,
GTsail

 

[Warpa]

Hello again, yes i was vague last night, should have posted earlier.
A- spec Expert Series
GT all stars
Historic
MR Sports (not tried this as i dont know what cars i have with MR)

Deep Forest and Trial Mountain tracks. For the Historic im using a a 76 Ferrari with max tune, everything is off except traction control set to 2-4 and ABS the same. This car loses its back end like its on ice even when i wind the power back down, whether on hard or soft racing tires they glow red as soon as i try to brake or spin out at every corner.

The same seems to apply to GT all stars, i use a fully tuned Lambo that i had no problems with in the previous series, again even with 4 wheel drive this thing just spins out. I have gold on every track and chasllenge so can drive reasonably well, not anything like the best though. Ill try the car mentioned above and see how i get on. I have a Toyota TOMS that handles great, but just doesnt quite have the power to get me near the top when up against all the LM cars.

 

[GTsail]

A- spec Expert Series
GT all stars
Historic
MR Sports

Deep Forest and Trial Mountain tracks. For the Historic im using a a 76 Ferrari with max tune,

For the GT All Stars, I would recommend a LM (LeMans prototype) car since that's what the AI competition are using. If you don't have a LM race car yet, do you have the funds to buy the Mazda 787B from the NCD (New Car Dealership)? Your A-spec XP level needs to be high enough to be eligible to purchase the 787B, but you're probably just about there. Personally, I like the Audi R8 Race Car '01 for this race, but thats a car purchased from the UCD (Used Car Dealership) so you might not have one yet.

For the Historic Racing Series, the easy way out it the Chaparral 2J, but, if you don't have one yet, then you could try a fully tuned Lamborghini Countach LP400 '74 or a Chevy Camaro Z28 '69 (RM)(race moded). I've won the races with both. I haven't ever tried the Ferrari 512BB '76 for this race Series, so I don't know how it compares. You definitely need to be on soft race tires.

Here is the thread for the Historic Racing Car Cup

For the MR Sports Cup, almost any decent MR (mid-engine, rear-wheel drive) car will do. I recently won the races with a Ford GT '05, and I've previously won the races with a couple of the newer Ferrari's, so there are quite a few options for the MR Sports Cup Series.

Good luck!
GTsail

 

[Warpa]

Thank you for the reply, i will take a look at what i have in the garage and see what you say is a better car, there are also a lot of abbreviations you mention that i dont understand...again im caught in a late night post so will clarify tomorrow

 

[Morgoth_666]

The Historic race car event can be difficult if the 2J or Toyota 7 start from the front of the field. Those cars are much faster than the others. If you have difficulty with them you can leave and re-enter until they have several cars to pass, making it easier for you to get to the front. It's a lot easier to keep them behind you than it is to catch them once they get away.

 

[GTsail]

there are also a lot of abbreviations you mention that i dont understand...

Sorry I've gone back and edited my post.

What experience point (XP) level for A-spec and B-spec are you?

Is your A-spec level high enough to purchase the Mazda 787B from the new car dealership? Your XP level might need to be level 23 or level 24. I think the Mazda 787B costs about $5million, and is a great car with which to take on the other LM race cars.

Respectfully,
GTsail

 

[Warpa]

Sorry I've gone back and edited my post.

What experience point (XP) level for A-spec and B-spec are you?

Is your A-spec level high enough to purchase the Mazda 787B from the new car dealership? Your XP level might need to be level 23 or level 24. I think the Mazda 787B costs about $5million, and is a great car with which to take on the other LM race cars.

Respectfully,
GTsail

Just hit level 27 after grinding some credits in my fully tuned Viper SRT 10 ACR '08 doing the Americas cup oval. I now have 2.5 mill and am working toward the 5+ mill for the car mentioned above.

Now this viper handled like a dream on the oval, so i thought i would try that on this dam trial mountain...it handled the same as all the other cars, wont brake, tires over heat, and i lose the rear end when accelerating unless in a straight line!

I dont want to go and spend 5 mill on a LM car if its just the nature of this coarse, thing is this coarse has already come up a lot and ive had no issues with it before :/

 

[byegad]

The first corner and the braking area before, the right hand corner before the bridge and the left hand corner before the 'straight' beside the lake are really bad, the first corner and left hand corner before the 'straight' beside the lake are both adverse camber so they seem slippery, but it's the camber pushing you wide IMHO. Try using the concrete area on the inside of the left hander before the right before the bridge as your braking area. This gives you a straight braking area for the right hander, rather than the curve on the tarmac and decreases the angle of that right hander. I pass cars there with ease.

 

[ryzno]

@ OP If you still need a Chaparral 2J Race Car, add me on PSN. I got one on borrow mode you can use. Also to make some quick money, detune the 2J, turn down the power limiter to 50% and add full ballast. You can make easy money at the 620PP Super Car Seasonal.

PS: After making said "easy money", keep an eye out for the ever elusive 2J in the UCD, every 6 events the UCD resets.

Good Luck and Good Racing

 

[Warpa]

@ OP If you still need a Chaparral 2J Race Car, add me on PSN. I got one on borrow mode you can use. Also to make some quick money, detune the 2J, turn down the power limiter to 50% and add full ballast. You can make easy money at the 620PP Super Car Seasonal.

PS: After making said "easy money", keep an eye out for the ever elusive 2J in the UCD, every 6 events the UCD resets.

Good Luck and Good Racing

Thanks for the offer, ill try to figure out how to add you and how to borrow a car lol, my name on there is my old online medal of honor war name, TDWMullins

 

[GTsail]

Deep Forest tracks. For the Historic im using a a 76 Ferrari with max tune, everything is off except traction control set to 2-4 and ABS the same. This car loses its back end like its on ice even when i wind the power back down, whether on hard or soft racing tires they glow red as soon as i try to brake or spin out at every corner.

I decided to try out the Ferrari 512BB '76 in the Historic Race at Deep Forest. I threw the stage 3 weight reduction at my 512BB and the stage 2 engine upgrade, plus an oil change, plus all the usual custom bits, so my Ferrari had the following spec's:
Horsepower: 516
Weight: 1175 kg
PP value: 550
Send me a PM if you are interested in my suspension tune

It took me 10 attempts, but then I finally won at Deep Forest(no aids other than ABS1). My 512BB handles decently, so I had some good and close races, but it did take a while before I could beat the Toyota 7 that gave me the most problems. Its just that the AI are in far superior race cars so they are hard to beat.

If you want an easier win, turn on the skid reduction force. With the SRF turned on, I was able to win at Deep Forest with a PP value of 540, and it could probably be lower still.

I would say that the Ferrari 512BB is fairly comparable to the Lamborghini Countach LP400 '74. The '74 Lambo does have the advantage of being able to add a wing.

Good luck,
GTsail