Extreme Series - Formula Gran Turismo

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Glassy80

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Glassatov
Evening lads,

Right, so ive got one of these Formula Gran Turismo cars and its an excellent car. Quick as anything and handles great. But ive tried this series against the other Formula Gran Turismo cars and its really, really, really hard to keep the car on the track while attempting to keep up with the others.

Has anyone got any tips or recommended setups for the car so I can attempt to complete this competition?

Glassy
 
In general, try increasing downforce and using smooth inputs for thottle and brake. A wheel/pedal setup will also help too; easier to apply that partial-throttle through a turn. Tune your gearing to match the course, usually the longest straight. And use the softest tires that you're allowed.
 
I found it handled the opposite to how it should. For instance if you are running wide into a gravel, don't stop turning in but apply the brakes... shouldn't turn and brake, however it worked more than once :nervous:

The problem for me was that this was the 1 case in which I've felt some "rubber banding" going on... At Fuji, went straight off and down to last. Picked my way through easily, but once in the lead I couldn't pull more than 5 seconds of lead out of them, same at other tracks too (apart from indianapolis for some reason)
 
Brakes set to 10 on front, 0 at rear, then use TCS at 3, and anti spin assist too. Made all the difference and I won most of the events after that.

 
That's the thing, my b-spec driver won every race. I use a controller and I find the car quite tricky to handle. I'll easily beat Bob's track times in any car, but not with the Formula 1 car. Very odd. I think i'll just have to practice.
 
pezzarinho17
I found it handled the opposite to how it should. For instance if you are running wide into a gravel, don't stop turning in but apply the brakes... shouldn't turn and brake, however it worked more than once :nervous:

The problem for me was that this was the 1 case in which I've felt some "rubber banding" going on... At Fuji, went straight off and down to last. Picked my way through easily, but once in the lead I couldn't pull more than 5 seconds of lead out of them, same at other tracks too (apart from indianapolis for some reason)
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I honestly don't think it is rubber banding. If you watch B-Spec and scroll through the other cars from time to time you'll see that they cool down quite quickly if they are in the lead or can't catch the car in front. However, if you come bombing through the field each car you overtake will heat up and go faster to get their place back, this usually bunches the field up a bit. Once you are in the lead the now 2nd and 3rd place cars have both been heated and are no fighting eachother for position, thus making them go faster and equal or beat your pace.
 
KyleR
I honestly don't think it is rubber banding. If you watch B-Spec and scroll through the other cars from time to time you'll see that they cool down quite quickly if they are in the lead or can't catch the car in front. However, if you come bombing through the field each car you overtake will heat up and go faster to get their place back, this usually bunches the field up a bit. Once you are in the lead the now 2nd and 3rd place cars have both been heated and are no fighting eachother for position, thus making them go faster and equal or beat your pace.
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No, its both. You right about driver temperament, but go to a track like Monza that has a long straight, and you'll notice your top speed will increase if you are behind. With the FGT, I was doing about 228 MPH down the finish line straight when I was first, and about 242 MPH down the same straight in the same race when I was behind. Once I got infront, my speed went back to 228.
 
xNEVER-ONEx
No, its both. You right about driver temperament, but go to a track like Monza that has a long straight, and you'll notice your top speed will increase if you are behind. With the FGT, I was doing about 228 MPH down the finish line straight when I was first, and about 242 MPH down the same straight in the same race when I was behind. Once I got infront, my speed went back to 228.
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That's called drafting, my friend, a well known real world force that Gran Turismo uses really well and so should you. Just trying to help. :)
 
I seriously can't understand how anyone can do this championship with a DS controller. For me it seems almost impossible. I have only focused Fuji so far, because I want to win the first race to get a good start and so I won't have so much pressure on me the next races. But Fuji seems impossible. I hate those blind corners at the end of the track. There is always a car that gets a few second lead after the first lap. And my car is always spinning when accelerating out of corners. You have very little trottle control on a DS. This is BS:tdown:
 
Just did this today. Youll seriously need to invest in racing softs if you want a good chance at this mate. Any slight mistake and youll be paying for it. These are the tightest races in the game.
 
Mavvy
Just did this today. Youll seriously need to invest in racing softs if you want a good chance at this mate. Any slight mistake and youll be paying for it. These are the tightest races in the game.
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I used the tyres the car came with.
Won each an every race with default aids (that was when I drove with TCS 5).
For example at Suzuka, if I made a mistake and dropped to last, I'll be in first in less than 3 or 4 laps.
Incredible fun!
 
Well it's a well known fact that F1 cars do not handle like regular cars at all. They are insanely quick to react to steering inputs as well as throttle and braking inputs. Their light weight and very low center of gravity makes these cars react like squirrels, but that same pro becomes a con when you realize that you must use smooth throttle control in order to keep the car poised while cornering and accelerating at the same time. It takes a lot of practice using a DS2, and even with a wheel it is still not a cake walk. Just head over to arcade mode and practice the course using the car and try to maintain constant smooth lap times, also you will need a good bit of money to refresh your chassis as around the 5,000km mark it will make the car harder to handle under extreme braking and very twitchy on bumps. Keep an eye out for the change in handling, some people can drive a car with bad chassis others can't.
 
I really dont like the FGT or the X2010's(which imo are just plain stupid) for that matter.
I'm not a great driver by any stretch of the imagination,but its the first time since i got my wheel that i've had to switch all driving aides on just to keep the car on the track.A tiny blip and forget it the opposition are gone and out of reach.Its the only race i need to complete A Spec except for endurances. :(
 
geoffmallan
That's called drafting, my friend, a well known real world force that Gran Turismo uses really well and so should you. Just trying to help. :)
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Uh no, I mentioned those speeds without drafting. With drafting, they would be even higher.
 
I think the FGT series is really a "practice makes perfect" scenario.

I tried the first two tracks without entering the series and golded both.

So I though "I can do the series, not as hard as I thought".

Then in the series i golded the first two tracks and then came last on every other.:guilty:

So i went back and tried the ones that I'd failed before. Tried the Nurburg Circuit and manage to get silver.

I'm going to practice the others again before I take on the series.

One thing I noticed about the Nurburg circuit is that the AI often spin out on the last chicane before the the home straight. So even when I was stuck behind in like 5th or 6th place, the leaders often spun out, allowing me to overtake them.👍
 
I found this tune (credit to Jorday, the OP) extremely effective all-round

downforce max/max
diff 15/20/15
ride height -5/0
spring rate 16.4/17.5
damper ext 6/8
damper comp 5/7
anti roll 5/7
camber -2.5/-1.5
toe -0.25/-0.15
trans 249
brakes 4/1

Also, see this thread:

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=147815


The FGT has few problems in high speed corners where downforce will keep it to the ground. On slow corners however, it can be tricky to keep control; the major change comes from adjusting the diff, as in the above tune, it will alow you to keep the rear end in check.

I'd advise you set your ABS to 1 and skid recovery on as well, TC doesn't matter all that much. That with the tune, will make the car agile enough, while still being very neutral under braking.


On specific races:

Fuji: tricky towards the latter part of the circuit, with lots of off-camber, slow corners (makes it ideal to practise), keeping as close as possible to the racing line really helped me here, as visibility is bad and don't try to take the last corner too fast.

Indy: Not much to say, easiest race of the series, just don't barrel into corners too fast.

Monaco: Whatever you do, stay calm and cool, drive at your own pace. The biggest danger here is getting stuck on a wall, which can take a long time to recover from. Shorten your gearing (to about 320-350 kph) and take it slow at first; don't worry, the AI is slow here too.

Nurburgring: The AI cars will seemingly be a little faster than you, but every other lap or so, they will spin out on the final chicane, giving you a fairly easy win as long as you stay on the track.

Monza: In the dry you can comfortably cut the chicanes, as well as drive over the curbs once you get the rythym. The AI cars will seem to outaccelerate you due to shorter gearing, meaning you can blast past them when you get up to speed on the straights. In the wet, check the above thread link for good suggestions on settings.

Suzuka: Mostly fast and flowing, apart from three sections where it's very easy to go in too fast: the right angle corners after the first series of fast flowing bends, the hairpin just after and the chicane at the end. Whatever you do, brake on time! Going off in any of these places will send you careering off the track facing the wrong way, make sure you don't!
 
Esvees
I found this tune (credit to Jorday, the OP) extremely effective all-round

downforce max/max
diff 15/20/15
ride height -5/0
spring rate 16.4/17.5
damper ext 6/8
damper comp 5/7
anti roll 5/7
camber -2.5/-1.5
toe -0.25/-0.15
trans 249
brakes 4/1
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Worked beautifully! great setup.
 

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