Fanatec CSL Elite Wheel Base Belt Tensioners Mod(Update)

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super_gt

super_gt

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Bulgaria
Bulgaria
Update:After eight months of testing, one of the rings has loosened,that is why I do not recommend you to do this mod!


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For the upper tensioner the size of ball bearings are:internal diameter-6mm/external diameter-22mm/width-7mm(KBS 636 ZZ).You will also need one washer(for M6 bolt which you will put from the outside) and ring with dimensions:internal diameter-22mm/external diameter-28mm/width-2mm.The internal diameter of the ring must be very precisely made in order for the ring to become tight on the bearing and not to move or the belt will slide over the position sensor of the wheel axis and will destroy the wheel base.Best find a professional turner with a lathe to make these rings for you.
For the lower tensioner the size of ball bearings are:internal diameter-6mm/external diameter-19mm/width-6mm(KBS 626 ZZ).You will also need three washers(for M6 bolt,you will put one from the outside and two from the inside) and ring with dimensions:internal diameter-19mm/external diameter-25mm/width-2mm.Again the internal diameter of the ring must be very precisely made in order for the ring to become tight on the bearing and not to move.

Why did I do this mod?Because while I was playing with the wheel I felt a few things.Small fine details from the initial moment when the rear of the car starts to slide were missing.I also noticed there was a slight lag from the moment in which the car starts to oversteer until the moment I felt it in the steering wheel.Another thing I felt was that when there is a change of direction of rotation a dead zone in the force feedback appears for a fraction of a second.The reason for these problems is that there is not enough tension in the belt.The original belt tensioners have 18mm external diameter while those I put have 22 and 19mm external diameter.This will add little more tension in the belt and fix these problems without adding too much friction to the single belt drive mechanism.I tried to put ball bearings with 22mm external diameter on the lower belt tensioner but the tension is too high and this only adds unnecessary friction.After this mod I can feel these small details from the initial moment when the rear of the car starts to slide,now there is zero lag from the moment in which the car starts to oversteer until the moment I felt it in the steering wheel and no more dead zone in the force feedback when there is a change of the direction of rotation of the steering wheel.Also the rattle when I go over curbs/bumps is little less violent now and I do not use FEI any more(before I used FEI set to 5).Now this single belt drive mechanism is extremely impressive.This mod cost me 7€.
Some additional information if there is anything unclear.

If you decide to do this mod it is for your own risk.
This mod will void your wheel base warranty!

 
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Here is a video showing the belt tension with the stock pulleys:



Unfortunately, my modification is not reliable enough(see the update)

Edit
@Flavourdynamics here is the picture:

Snapshot_20180831.JPG
 
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Do you think that there is a way to sandwich the pulleys, that way they are braced at both ends...

Sory for the choppy question. I don't have time to clarify at the moment.
 
Dopplegagger
Do you think that there is a way to sandwich the pulleys, that way they are braced at both ends...

Sorry for the choppy question. I don't have time to clarify at the moment.
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I am sorry, my friend, but I'm not sure what exactly you mean.:)
 
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Droors77
I think what he means is a plate on top of the pulleys to index the pins to remove the load and or any wiggle? Spaced out over the span of the 3 pulley.
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And here my bad English becomes a big problem because I'm not sure I understand you correctly, but I will try to explain.

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There are very thin metal washers(0.3 millimeters wide)between the ball bearings and the ball bearings are pressed against each other(only the lower rings of the ball bearings are pressed, the upper rings rotate freely) so they can not move. If I pressed the bearings without these thin washers between them there will be more friction and fewer details in the FFB.

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Dopplegagger
20181007_082008

20181007_082008


Here's what I mean. Droors77 is correct.

Had to remove something from the image. OOPS!
Click to expand...

The shafts for the pulleys are pretty strong. In reality, the belt is not tightened(you can easily place the ball bearings in place by hand) so I think this is not necessary. I have this modification for 10 months and so far no problem.
 
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Oh... Alright. I just like to use "over kill" when ever possible. One can never be too sure. LOL.

Still, if you say they are strong enough, then that settles it. I don't even have the wheel (yet), so I'm just making uninformed suggestions. I hope that didn't upset you. :)
 
CSL Elite rattling noise test with the modified single belt mechanism.

In Assetto Corsa(PC version) FFB is set to 200
In the wheel:
FF 100
DRI OFF
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
FEI 100
(you can see the settings at the end of the video)




In the second test the FFB In Assetto Corsa is set to 100
In the wheel:
FF 100
DRI OFF
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
FEI 100
(you can see the settings at the end of the video)




In the third test the FFB In Assetto Corsa is set to 200
In the wheel:
FF 100
DRI OFF
FOR 120
SPR 120
DPR 120
FEI 100


 
It turns out to stretch the belt like a thrustmasters does not work out at all and will have to live with such a rattle? It annoys me a bit (. I am already ready to sell the base and buy clubsport 2.5
if it doesn’t make it difficult for you to turn on the subtitles, you will understand more what I am saying.
in Game Assetto Corsa Competizione
gain 100
dumping 100
road 0

FF 100
DRI -3
FOR 120-100
SPR 0
DPR 0
FEI 100-10-20-30-40-50

On video I checked how the parameter FOR
120-100 And I also put FEI a minimum and checked how it rattles, at 10-20-30 there is almost no noise, there is already something for 50, but at 80 and above it is not possible to drive the race for so long!
And as far as I understand this problem due to the fact that the CSL ELITE is an all-in-one belt? is he jumping there?
 
Jeka_djonik
It turns out to stretch the belt like a thrustmasters does not work out at all and will have to live with such a rattle?
Click to expand...
This modification reduces the rattle but does not remove it completely.
Your wheel does not seem to be more noisy than normal.
Jeka_djonik
And as far as I understand this problem due to the fact that the CSL ELITE is an all-in-one belt? is he jumping there?
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When there is a change of direction for example, a curb vibration, due to the slight play of the belt it separates slightly from the tensioner and then hits it.

въртене 1.png
въртене 2.png


This creates noise.
But this is corrected in the new models.
 
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Super_gt
I think this is a developer cant! and sell my base for the sake of buying a new one where we don’t really know how they improved.
 
Jeka_djonik
Super_gt
I think this is a developer cant! and sell my base for the sake of buying a new one where we don’t really know how they improved.
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I hope Fanatec will offer these new tensioners with larger diameter for customers who want more tight and silent FFB to buy and install them on the older CSL Elite wheel bases.
 
Direct comparison between the modified belt tensioners and the original belt tensioners.
Everything is identical, game, car, car settings, track, FFB settngs in game and in the wheel.

With modified belt tensioners:



With original belt tensioners:

 
super_gt....... Just saw your comment on the 23mm 3d printed pulley. Will you give it a try? I am just waiting for my warranty period to pass in a month and then i thing it is a no brainer.
 
super_gt
To be honest, I don't want to disassemble my wheel base, and I see no reason for this modification to not work properly, and if you try this mod and for some reason you don't like it you can always bring the original pulley back.:)
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I will download the file today after work and will send it for printing.
I will ask for a second one with smaller diameter for the bottom pulley. What do you recommend? Should i replace only the upper one since it is 23mm, or not? Your wisdom is needed.....
 
So i tried out various diameters of pulleys. 19mn,20mm, 21mm, 22mm, 23mm, 24mm. If i change the top one with anything over 19mm it generates clogging and noise wile turning the wheel.

With 20mm sounds like a t-gt
With 21mm sounds like a g29
With 22mm sounds like a t300
With 23mm sounds like a g27
With 24mm sounds like a t500

Much more cogging and drag.

I found the best case scenario to be when changing both the stock pulleys with the 19mm 3d printed.

I bought bearings but i can not put them on. Any tips?
 
ANDRITSOULAS
The bearing will not go through the axle. Or the opposite to be more accurate. 6 mm internal diameter.
I tried to expand the bearing with heat but didn't made a difference.
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Do you have a caliper to measure the diameter of the shaft and where the bearing gets stuck, at the beginning of the shaft or at the channel for the circlip?
 

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