Fanatec CSW/CSR Elite Modders Thread *UPDATE February 2014*

  • Thread starter eKretz
  • 3,600 comments
  • 585,295 views
You could also try unplugging the zero sensor when it hits the right lockstop during calibration and see if the wheel will then finnish calibrating
 
Yeah, that's how I had to use the wheel I modded to >1080 DOR otherwise it couldn't keep track of itself. As far as I can tell the zero sensor is mostly just a calibration reference, the wheels are still 100% usable if you unplug it (after/during calibration of coarse) it does also help the wheels not go more that 45 degrees off center if there is an issue with the POS sensor
 
Thanks for all the tips guys, I'll keep plugging away at it. I hope I do not have to toss my GT2 in the bin - it was great while it worked.
 
@seth francis @Blue028

I did what you suggested and cleaned the zero sensor and powered up the wheel. It started working again. Mounted it on my gtxtreme rig and spent two hours on it. Worked very well, no complaints. That was yesterday evening.

This morning I turned it on and the problem was back.. Help..

Is this the zero sensor working intermittently? What else can I check? Thanks for all the help.

Seth, I am in Australia if you do have a sensor that works, please let me know.
 
I do have one, it is brand new too :) I am in the USA so I'm not sure what shipping would cost. I could find out if you'd like me to take a look at the shipping rates.

The only thing I am unsure of is if the zero sensor could work intermittently. It may be possible, I just don't know for sure. I wonder if maybe there is a wire on the zero sensor plug that is not connecting? Maybe you could try putting a small amount of lateral pressure (on the broad side of the plug) with a screw driver or something. Of course you don't want to push hard and break the connector off the sensor pcb but just a small amount of pressure on the side of the plug. Turn on the wheel while holding a bit of pressure on the plug and see if it calibrates properly.
 
New belt arrived yesterday, so I put it in first thing this morning and started playing assetto corsa for a couple of hours. Until something went wrong, a wire had broken off the back of the hub connector, for the third time now. I kept on doing quick patch up jobs to keep it going because I knew it would be time consuming to put the slip ring in. So being a long weekend and I had time to do it I thought what the heck, stop piss farting about and get it done. Picking of all the glue and old solder of the back of the pins was probably the least enjoyable part, soldered the wires from the slip ring directly to the pins and heat shrink each one, on the connector side I cut the original wires but left enough to solder the other wires to it as I don't have a crimping tool.
Got the soldering done then fitted it up for a test, all is good.

Also decided to make a custom power button, it closely resembles the Buhler logo:
20160424_213235_zpsrfqhga4s.jpg

BUHLER POWER!

also picked up a set of static shifter paddles:
20160424_213346_zpsmtlpagwt.jpg


I'm definatley going to have to paint it soon, too many odd colours lol
 
seth francis
I do have one, it is brand new too :) I am in the USA so I'm not sure what shipping would cost. I could find out if you'd like me to take a look at the shipping rates.

The only thing I am unsure of is if the zero sensor could work intermittently. It may be possible, I just don't know for sure. I wonder if maybe there is a wire on the zero sensor plug that is not connecting? Maybe you could try putting a small amount of lateral pressure (on the broad side of the plug) with a screw driver or something. Of course you don't want to push hard and break the connector off the sensor pcb but just a small amount of pressure on the side of the plug. Turn on the wheel while holding a bit of pressure on the plug and see if it calibrates properly.
Click to expand...

I tried pushing it a bit (not too hard, afraid to break it) against the belt to get it closer and now instead of rotating to the left and staying there, it now rotates to the left and then rotates to the right and then left and right endlessly. I notice that it changes direction as soon as it passes the zero sensor. Is the sensor faulty or some fault in the board that reads the sensor.

Sigh, getting nowhere...
 
Hey, sorry for the delay, check one thing, make sure that all your spr, dpr etc settings are off, and make sure drift is off particularly. Drift mode will cause endless oscillation at startup. Otherwise it may very well be the sensor. Might be worth trying to replace it and seeing what happens.
 
seth francis
Hey, sorry for the delay, check one thing, make sure that all your spr, dpr etc settings are off, and make sure drift is off particularly. Drift mode will cause endless oscillation at startup. Otherwise it may very well be the sensor. Might be worth trying to replace it and seeing what happens.
Click to expand...

@seth francis

Hi seth, thanks for all the advice. Can I please get the zero sensor from you. I'm not sure what the postage is like from US to Australia.

Also, how would you replace it? Do you have to remove all the belts ,etc since it is sitting under one of the big pulleys.
 
No problem at all, hopefully this sensor will solve your issue finally.

That is a good question on install, I will have to take a look at one of my wheels and see what the easiest way to remove that sensor would be.

Ill also take a look at shipping prices, just send me a private message with your address and ill get an exact price. I can give you the sensor for free to keep the cost down. It is brand new so hopefully that will fix your issue.
 

Thanks for that. I have already replaced the code wheel sensor. Do you know how to replace the zero sensor?
 
gt_fan
@seth francis @Blue028

I did what you suggested and cleaned the zero sensor and powered up the wheel. It started working again. Mounted it on my gtxtreme rig and spent two hours on it. Worked very well, no complaints. That was yesterday evening.

This morning I turned it on and the problem was back.. Help..

Is this the zero sensor working intermittently? What else can I check? Thanks for all the help.

Seth, I am in Australia if you do have a sensor that works, please let me know.
Click to expand...

hi! thanks fo link,
how did you clean it?
there is no space at all for tools...(

looks that it needs to be totaly disassemble tha wheel ((((

Blue028
You could also try unplugging the zero sensor when it hits the right lockstop during calibration and see if the wheel will then finnish calibrating
Click to expand...
hi
whith gt2 wheel it possible only whith disconecting main board (i try but it faster break the conector or main board)
i will try to cut wiris to zero sens.and then conect it again
but if the issue whith conector it wont help (
sorry fo my eng.
thanks for advising
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    94.6 KB · Views: 104
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    89.4 KB · Views: 102
Last edited by a moderator:
Last edited:
gt_fan
I used a microfiber cloth to run it past the sensors - you cannot fit a tool in the gap. Just be careful you don't damage the sensors.

Also my wheel is now sort of working - i'll put some notes in my post later.

See here:
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/fanatec-gt2-wheel-broken.345028/#post-11360414
Click to expand...
i follow yours step )))
try to push on zero sense.closer to belt wile calibrating - and all good!
100% problem with sensitive of that sensor
at least i can play now )))
 
rigeswamp
100%

BUT I WILL ORDER THRUSTMASTER ANYWAY))
Click to expand...

I would research a bit on brands before buying. I was going for new wheel but I googled and found a number of people have problems with current gen steering wheels. Just my 2 cents.
 
seth francis
I do have one, it is brand new too :) I am in the USA so I'm not sure what shipping would cost. I could find out if you'd like me to take a look at the shipping rates.

The only thing I am unsure of is if the zero sensor could work intermittently. It may be possible, I just don't know for sure. I wonder if maybe there is a wire on the zero sensor plug that is not connecting? Maybe you could try putting a small amount of lateral pressure (on the broad side of the plug) with a screw driver or something. Of course you don't want to push hard and break the connector off the sensor pcb but just a small amount of pressure on the side of the plug. Turn on the wheel while holding a bit of pressure on the plug and see if it calibrates properly.
Click to expand...
thanks!!!!
in that way i can use my wheel, but i need to do this every time when it turn on
thanks again)
 
Hi there, Fantec MOD fans... I believe everybody is excited about the GT Sport news... :)

I am going to order the MOD kit from Eric in a few days, but first I wanted to discuss one issue that I noticed few days ago. I want to tell, that I bought secondhand V1 base few weeks ako, it was sent to Fanatec before guarantee expired and new motors were installed, everythings looked ok untill...

Here is my problem as descirbed on iRacing forum:

Originaly I thought that the problem is only about center position, but as written below, it is not only about the center...

Here is my problem as described few days ago:

While in the sim (iRacing or other) I always feel some kind of center point resistance. Basically when I am turning the wheel and I pass the center position I can feel a small FFB resistance. Yes it is nice to have the information through the wheel FFB that I have crossed the center point of the wheel, but it is rather disturbing and unrealistic...

Is this another Fanatec clubsport feature, or some software, firmware problem?

The problem appears only in-game. When the wheel base is turned on and in Windows only, no point of higher resistance
I updated to thel latest firmware 141, did not help...

But one important thing I noticed today. It is not about the center position only. I hope I will be able to explain it correctly with my engish. It does not matter in which position the wheel is. The important thing is, in which static position I have the wheel for some time. And when I turn the wheel afterwards around this point, I can feed the the resistance of the FFB. Next, if I change the static position of the wheel and let it there for a moment and than start to turn around the new position, there is a new point with such resistance...

So not the center position, but the position in which I hold the wheel for some time without moving it, will create the resistance point...

According to one Fanatec user, there could be two possible things behind the issue:

First one is that the FFB motors maybe starting to fail. When I replaced mine I had this odd feeling when first moving the wheel quickly from any position and the new V1.5 FFB motor block cured it.

It could also be a bit of belt slip. Over time the belts do wear and stretch a little. You can adjust them via the big bolts on the front of the CSW. You will need some one to let you know just how to get them at the right tension as I can't remember how I did it now.

So my question is. Should I try to resolve this issue or wait for the MOD kit from Eric, and see if this helps to get rid of the issue...
 
Normaly the first sign of bad motors is they start to feel notchy. High tension on the belts can cause it, it sort of puts a temporary 'fold' in the belt, but can only really be felt under no load conditions, easy way to determine if it's the belt is power off the wheel and see if you still feel it
 
Last edited:
A have tried Assetto Corsa, Project CARS and iRacing. All sims with similar issue, but in Project Cars not that visible but I could still feel the center position resistance a bit... So it appears not to be about the game itself, it is probably about the V1 base - hardware or software.

So I should order the MOD kit as soon as possible, if this is caused by the motors...
 
Have a play around with some of the wheel settings too, spring damper etc. If you are planning to upgrade the motors anyway then go ahead, but I'm not 100% sure that's the problem
 

Latest Posts

Back