Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel

[330_D]

wait what

CSL Cockpit

The CSL Cockpit punches well above its weight. Every part of the aluminium and steel construction is optimised for stiffness and strength.

fanatec.com

That's a nice solution for me.

 

[MarkusJ]

This is the fullforce?

 

[Kriptical]

This is the fullforce?

Ahh you cracked the base plate screws. Did you receive one of the loose ones? Back with the dd pro i was afraid that i over tightened the screws because the space is very small to get a torque wrench in there and 2.5nm is very light to do by feel. I got lucky and qr2 fixed it. Hope the same works for you.

 

[super_gt]

This is the fullforce?

Is that your steering wheel and how did it happen?

 

[MarkusJ]

Is that your steering wheel and how did it happen?

No it's not mine, it's come from a Canadian guy.
The break issue is on the bottom part of the wheel rim:


I don't know if this part on the rim is in plastic or in metal?

 

[bokspeed]

youch

No it's not mine, it's come from a Canadian guy.
The break issue is on the bottom part of the wheel rim:


I don't know if this part on the rim is in plastic or in metal?

youch - looks pretty busted judging from that video! Would hope thats covered under warranty - ?////?

Personally, I would only use Clubsport type rims with the dd+ base - or ensure you lower the torque on the base; glad I did not get the Extreme bundle and just the dd+ base to use with my CS rims....

 

[super_gt]

I don't know if this part on the rim is in plastic or in metal?

It's plastic, but I am using my steering wheel at full torque for quite some time without this problem occurring.

 

[bodobear]

Pffff Fanatec what are you doing ???
I ordered my DD+ Extreme bundle together with the CSL Elite V2 mid february. In my order details it was marked as preorder available march 28. End of march they sent an email that it´s delayed until 05. of april. And today I was looking into my order to see if they started the delivery and now it says availble may 28 !!! ???? What´s going on with them ??
In the shop if you would order today it´s available from 06. may. How can my already ordered items take months longer than you would order from today ?
If I´m canceling my order on their website am I getting my money directly back that I payed with Paypal or would you try to cancel directly over on the Paypal service ?
Not sure what to do now... I really would love to get the bundle but in the actual situation I´m not sure the will send it to me. I´m using a PS5 with GT7. What are my other options ? Only the Logitech Pro or better wait for other companies to release something for the PS5 ? It´s really frustrating and I payed around 1600€ for "nothing"....

 

[Nightwing24]

I don’t want t derail thread but it is tangent a little, anyone here with experience care to share their impressions I was trying to get in the hardware forum?:

Anyone use both the Clubsport DD/+ and Simucube care to provide their opinion comparison's FFB feeling?

Already know build quality, level of software customization, and customer service are all far better with Simucube, I just want to hear the functionality that matters as a deciding factor to me that every single “comparison” review seems to avoid discussing in the FFB.

What is the nuanced difference between both wheelbases besides “Simucube better and smoother but not by much”?

 

[PirovacBoy]

Pffff Fanatec what are you doing ???
I ordered my DD+ Extreme bundle together with the CSL Elite V2 mid february. In my order details it was marked as preorder available march 28. End of march they sent an email that it´s delayed until 05. of april. And today I was looking into my order to see if they started the delivery and now it says availble may 28 !!! ???? What´s going on with them ??
In the shop if you would order today it´s available from 06. may. How can my already ordered items take months longer than you would order from today ?
If I´m canceling my order on their website am I getting my money directly back that I payed with Paypal or would you try to cancel directly over on the Paypal service ?
Not sure what to do now... I really would love to get the bundle but in the actual situation I´m not sure the will send it to me. I´m using a PS5 with GT7. What are my other options ? Only the Logitech Pro or better wait for other companies to release something for the PS5 ? It´s really frustrating and I payed around 1600€ for "nothing"....

Hey Bodo,
There are numerous options out there.
Me personally would definitely want to get the DD+.
I was in a kind of similar situation a few weeks ago and chose to cancel my order and got me the DD Extreme Bundle over eBay Kleinanzeigen.
My order was delayed a few times too, same as yours so I looked up ebay Kleinanzeigen and thankfully this dude had a few of them so I canceled my order and bought his Bundle which was sitting just 30Km away from my Hometown.
Of course Brand New and sealed.

I had to wait a few days for my money to be re booked to my account, Fanatec was indeed very quick sending me back my money.

Everything went pretty straight forward and no hassle at all getting my bucks back.

So in conclusion I'd say the following.

If you really really want the DD+ then either wait or try to get yourself one over eBay Kleinanzeigen.

Alternatively you can try to grab yourself either the Logitech G Pro OR the Fanatec DD Pro.

Both very good Wheels.
My Order would be:
1D+
2:Logitech G Pro
3: DD Pro 8NM

From here on the rest is only up to you.
Good luck and I wish you make the right decision 👍

 

[Chevy Heavy]

Ahh you cracked the base plate screws. Did you receive one of the loose ones? Back with the dd pro i was afraid that i over tightened the screws because the space is very small to get a torque wrench in there and 2.5nm is very light to do by feel. I got lucky and qr2 fixed it. Hope the same works for you.

Speaking of over tightening screws and full force. This is what happened to my CSL Elite. Over the past few months I noticed the wheel base kept becoming loose. So I would tighten the screws each time it happen. Well while racing one day it just snapped off my rig and this the result. Somehow one of the screws had become partially stripped, but would still get tight. I guess every time I tightened the screws it was putting more stress on the bottom of the base. Anyhow I had planned to upgrade later this year around the holidays, this just accelerated my plans.

So I ordered the GT DD Extreme last Friday and it's just got delivered. I read through this thread and seen others on Reddit about the problems with the drivers. I downloaded the 455 drivers. I watched the video guide and it had all peripherals attached to the wheel when looking for upgrades. However, I've seen comments about upgrading the wheelbase without the wheel attached. Do you know which firmware I should have on wheel, base and QR2? Thanks.

 

[FMW]

I can't speak for the wheel rim that comes on the X-TREME, (I only own the DD+ base as I use other FANATEC wheels on it) but as far as the base and QR2 is concerned, you should have your PC driver on 455. NOTE: The Fanatec forum beta tester expert "MAURICE" has repeatedly said to only use 455 as the pre-installed firmware is no bueno, and wait for 457, which is due to come out at the end of the month. In the meantime, anyone with a DD or DD+ should be using 455 in the interim. Plug in the base only to the PC. If the base and QR2 says "There's a new firmware available" upgrade the base and QR2 to it. After the base and QR2 are on the 455 firmware update, then plug in your wheel and see if there's a update to your wheel, which I'm not 100% sure PC driver 455 will have. If it doesn't I believe the recommendation is to load PC driver 456, but only update the wheel and not the base and QR2.

 

[Kriptical]

Speaking of over tightening screws and full force. This is what happened to my CSL Elite. Over the past few months I noticed the wheel base kept becoming loose. So I would tighten the screws each time it happen. Well while racing one day it just snapped off my rig and this the result. Somehow one of the screws had become partially stripped, but would still get tight. I guess every time I tightened the screws it was putting more stress on the bottom of the base. Anyhow I had planned to upgrade later this year around the holidays, this just accelerated my plans.

So I ordered the GT DD Extreme last Friday and it's just got delivered. I read through this thread and seen others on Reddit about the problems with the drivers. I downloaded the 455 drivers. I watched the video guide and it had all peripherals attached to the wheel when looking for upgrades. However, I've seen comments about upgrading the wheelbase without the wheel attached. Do you know which firmware I should have on wheel, base and QR2? Thanks.

View attachment 1343720

View attachment 1343721

I have 455 and am holding until full force comes out. Its been good with one exception that the ffb gets wonky sometimes coming out of a cut scene. Quickly fixed by cycling the pause menu.

 

[BWX]

My wheel / rim makes creaking noises. I think it can handle the rotational forces ok, but any forward or backward pressure on the wheel makes it feel like it's about to snap. You can really feel the "plasticy cheapness" when you do that. Like if someone grabs the wheel on top and pulls themselves up out of the rig or chair like you do in a real car, that kind of force seems like it could easily break this thing like in in video above.

I run a metal QR2 but maybe the QR2 lite would be better at absorbing some of those longitudinal forces that would stress the wheel rim more if attached with a more rigid metal QR2.

I can't speak for the wheel rim that comes on the X-TREME, (I only own the DD+ base as I use other FANATEC wheels on it) but as far as the base and QR2 is concerned, you should have your PC driver on 455. NOTE: The Fanatec forum beta tester expert "MAURICE" has repeatedly said to only use 455 as the pre-installed firmware is no bueno, and wait for 457, which is due to come out at the end of the month. In the meantime, anyone with a DD or DD+ should be using 455 in the interim. Plug in the base only to the PC. If the base and QR2 says "There's a new firmware available" upgrade the base and QR2 to it. After the base and QR2 are on the 455 firmware update, then plug in your wheel and see if there's a update to your wheel, which I'm not 100% sure PC driver 455 will have. If it doesn't I believe the recommendation is to load PC driver 456, but only update the wheel and not the base and QR2.

I'm running 455 base and wheel FW, and 456 FW for the Wireless QR FW and it's also fine. I had lots of issues and failed attempts at updating QR FW to 456 (back when 456 first came out) so when QR FW update finally worked and I unbricked my wheel, I left it alone and just downgraded wheel and base FW to 455.

I'm not going to change it again until 457 comes out. I've only had one disconnect since downgrading to 455 on base and wheel in weeks of use so it's in a pretty good state right now.

 

[PirovacBoy]

A question to those having the Extreme Wheel.
What is the most recent FW for it?
Mine says 1.0.3

I have done all the updates using the 455 Driver, so curious if there is a newer Extreme Wheel FW when using Driver 456.

@FMW btw I managed to get Project Cars 2 running with the DD+ Base using the Extreme Rim but unfortunately it keeps disconnecting every few seconds so basically it's unplayable although it's working.
Under Settings the Wheel is recognized as a Hori Controller.
My Csl load cells are working fine too...

Might be down to the 456 Driver IF the Rim gets an update with it, hence my question...

On the other hand there's no way to play Motorfest with it.

I even tried the Metal QR2 on the Extreme Rim... Nada, nothing, so my hopes are now all in Ubisoft hands.
Hopefully they implement the support..

 

[BWX]

A question to those having the Extreme Wheel.
What is the most recent FW for it?
Mine says 1.0.3

I have done all the updates using the 455 Driver, so curious if there is a newer Extreme Wheel FW when using Driver 456.

@FMW btw I managed to get Project Cars 2 running with the DD+ Base using the Extreme Rim but unfortunately it keeps disconnecting every few seconds so basically it's unplayable although it's working.
Under Settings the Wheel is recognized as a Hori Controller.
My Csl load cells are working fine too...

Might be down to the 456 Driver IF the Rim gets an update with it, hence my question...

On the other hand there's no way to play Motorfest with it.

I even tried the Metal QR2 on the Extreme Rim... Nada, nothing, so my hopes are now all in Ubisoft hands.
Hopefully they implement the support..

Yup, "GT DD Extreme SW: 1.0.7.0 (NEW)" for 456.

I'm tempted to upgrade to that for the wheel since I think that FW is fine but I'm going to not touch anything just in case something screws up with the updater software which is buggy in 456. -edit Also the Wireless QR FW for 456 is fine. It's just the wheel base FW that is bad, and possibly the updater software.

 

[PirovacBoy]

Yup, "GT DD Extreme SW: 1.0.7.0 (NEW)" for 456.

I'm tempted to upgrade to that for the wheel since I think that FW is fine but I'm going to not touch anything just in case something screws up with the updater software which is buggy in 456. -edit Also the Wireless QR FW for 456 is fine. It's just the wheel base FW that is bad, and possibly the updater software.

I see... hmm, not sure if it's worth taking the risk either.
But good to know.
I'll wait for 457 though. Play it safe you know.
Like Maurice adviced me, I did contact Ubisoft / Ivory Tower a few days ago and wrote them a Mail where I described the issue very detailed.
Motorfest supports every Wheelbase one can even think of so I hope they reply to me or at least are aware of the compatibility issue.

But it maybe might be just down to the Extreme FW... No idea.
My McLaren Rim is on FW 1.02 and it's working like a charm.

I really miss the good ol' days with my Logitech Driving Force back in 2001...it basically worked with everything 😅

 

[bodobear]

Hey Bodo,
There are numerous options out there.
Me personally would definitely want to get the DD+.
I was in a kind of similar situation a few weeks ago and chose to cancel my order and got me the DD Extreme Bundle over eBay Kleinanzeigen.
My order was delayed a few times too, same as yours so I looked up ebay Kleinanzeigen and thankfully this dude had a few of them so I canceled my order and bought his Bundle which was sitting just 30Km away from my Hometown.
Of course Brand New and sealed.

I had to wait a few days for my money to be re booked to my account, Fanatec was indeed very quick sending me back my money.

Everything went pretty straight forward and no hassle at all getting my bucks back.

So in conclusion I'd say the following.

If you really really want the DD+ then either wait or try to get yourself one over eBay Kleinanzeigen.

Alternatively you can try to grab yourself either the Logitech G Pro OR the Fanatec DD Pro.

Both very good Wheels.
My Order would be:
1D+
2:Logitech G Pro
3: DD Pro 8NM

From here on the rest is only up to you.
Good luck and I wish you make the right decision 👍

Hey, thank you so much for taking your time.. I just canceled my order on their website. Did you also contacted Paypal or do I just have to wait a few days until Fanatec will send the money back ?
I still would love to get the DD+ Extreme bundle, or do you recommend to search just the base and another wheel with a Q2 ?
Ebay and Kleinanzeigen do not have any bundles at the moment but I will keep looking there.
Not sure about the Logitech.. what do you think about it ? Maybe it would be interesting for the other games that are not working with the DD+ right now ?
I really hope I can find any nice solution for my first racing setup.
Have a nice weekend !
Bodo

 

[PirovacBoy]

No need to contact PayPal.
Just wait a few days and your money will be transferred back on your bank account.
I think 3 or 4 days after I canceled my order, my online banking account at Sparkasse showed me that the refund is being confirmed but I had to wait another 2 or 3 days until it was finally booked back.
To give you my opinion on your very first Wheel Setup... Go with the DD+ 100%.
I would order the standalone DD+ Wheelbase and combine it with the McLaren v2 Wheel and the Csl V2 pedals.
As a backup Round Wheel you have many different options.

The Logitech G Pro is definitely worth a look too.
The Problem is the ecosystem though.
At this point you are limited to the bundle and have no other Wheel / Pedal options to choose from.
Although of high quality... I don't know.

Fanatec has a huge sandbox of various different options to choose from so it's up to you what you are looking for and how future proof you want your setup to be.
For me there was only one choice and that was Fanatec.
And once FullForce is finally implemented on the DD+, I think Logitech has lost its biggest selling point imo.
The Logitech G Pro is a great Wheel no doubt about it but Fanatec is just way more configurable and diverse.

Hope I could give you some points 🙂

 

[Chevy Heavy]

Happy to report after 3 hrs of racing tonight I had no issues with the wheel. Didn't have time to change any settings, went with default. I have to say it felt good and can't wait until tomorrow to try some different setups. We did a race on Tokyo which required 360 degree turns and that didn't go well. I race in VR and couldn't find the paddles to shift when I was stuck sideways on track.

 

[rsspyder21]

I can't speak for the wheel rim that comes on the X-TREME, (I only own the DD+ base as I use other FANATEC wheels on it) but as far as the base and QR2 is concerned, you should have your PC driver on 455. NOTE: The Fanatec forum beta tester expert "MAURICE" has repeatedly said to only use 455 as the pre-installed firmware is no bueno, and wait for 457, which is due to come out at the end of the month. In the meantime, anyone with a DD or DD+ should be using 455 in the interim. Plug in the base only to the PC. If the base and QR2 says "There's a new firmware available" upgrade the base and QR2 to it. After the base and QR2 are on the 455 firmware update, then plug in your wheel and see if there's a update to your wheel, which I'm not 100% sure PC driver 455 will have. If it doesn't I believe the recommendation is to load PC driver 456, but only update the wheel and not the base and QR2.

I’ve updated absolutely nothing since getting my DD+ and haven’t had one issue in hours of driving. Knock on wood. I’m not updating anything till at least 457 and probably not till Full Force is out.

 

[Chevy Heavy]

Is there anyway of accessing the tuning menu on the wheel or do you have to do that pc? I'm going to try @PirovacBoy settings next. Trying to find something that feels good but not overpowering.

 

[PirovacBoy]

A question to those who might have the insight.
How much Torque does a Gt3/4 Car Produce in the Steering wheel?
In real world of course.
And what about Production Cars with Power steering support.
And of course Vintage cars without power steering.
And most of all does anyone here know how exactly does PD and GT7 calculate it and what would be the correct value to set in GT7.
I run my Wheelbase at 100%FFB and in game sliders are set to 5/7.
If it is calculated how I think it might be, this should correlate to 7.5 NM of Torque.
But what about the Peak Torque output?
Are the 7.5Nm a constant applied force or are there still peaks which can go higher and lows which go lower then the aforementioned 7.5Nm.
Unfortunately there is no way to see these exact numbers while playing.
To be honest to me it feels great though the way I've set it up.

Over the past few days I spent a lot of time with Motorfest and this game does an outstanding job in simulating the real world feel in the Steering column.
I also jumped into ACC which imo has the worst and most mechanical FFB.
It does absolutely not feel like driving a car in real world.
There is so much noise and effects going on which feel completely unrealistic.
And of course I gave GT7 a go after 14 days not having it played, and to be honest GT7 feels very very similar to the Crew Motorfest.
The differences are very small.

But back to my question can anyone around give me some numbers.
As always any info is highly appreciated 🙂

Is there anyway of accessing the tuning menu on the wheel or do you have to do that pc? I'm going to try @PirovacBoy settings next. Trying to find something that feels good but not overpowering.

You can access the Tuning Menu via your Wheel.
There is a small button on the wheel which once pressed opens the tuning Menu on your Wheel Display.

 

[jfjer]

Just downgraded my base to 455 from 456 due to the disconnects. I’ve done two 30 minute Sarthe 700pp races since then, not a single disconnect yet. Had some trouble flashing the firmware when using my laptop, it kept on failing. But when I flashed using my desktop, it succeeded on the first try. Will do the 1 hour Spa later, hopefully no more problems so I can do some ACC online racing

Hi
Could you be so kind to explain how you downgrade the 456 base firmare back to 455 Firmware on the DD+ ?

I was on 456 but experienced dropouts in just about any sim as everyone else with this driver. I uninstalled the 456 driver and installed the 454 driver and it seems to be fine on the PC so far after several hours of testing. But it would still be good to know how to downgrade the Firmware properly.

If you ask this question on Reddit you get answers like, dont fix what isnt broken, but my DD+ didnt work properly when installing for the first time on 455 as it got stuck in update mode, so i had to flash on a different driver to get out of the stuck in update mode.

Thanks for answers in advance

 

[Chevy Heavy]

You can access the Tuning Menu via your Wheel.
There is a small button on the wheel which once pressed opens the tuning Menu on your Wheel Display.

Thanks found it, I thought there was. It kind of blends in with the wheel. Tried your settings, they feel good, a lot of info felt. The only thing I changed was in game torque to 3. The wheel just felt too difficult to turn at higher force.

 

[Kriptical]

A question to those who might have the insight.
How much Torque does a Gt3/4 Car Produce in the Steering wheel?
In real world of course.
And what about Production Cars with Power steering support.
And of course Vintage cars without power steering.
And most of all does anyone here know how exactly does PD and GT7 calculate it and what would be the correct value to set in GT7.
I run my Wheelbase at 100%FFB and in game sliders are set to 5/7.
If it is calculated how I think it might be, this should correlate to 7.5 NM of Torque.
But what about the Peak Torque output?
Are the 7.5Nm a constant applied force or are there still peaks which can go higher and lows which go lower then the aforementioned 7.5Nm.
Unfortunately there is no way to see these exact numbers while playing.
To be honest to me it feels great though the way I've set it up.

Over the past few days I spent a lot of time with Motorfest and this game does an outstanding job in simulating the real world feel in the Steering column.
I also jumped into ACC which imo has the worst and most mechanical FFB.
It does absolutely not feel like driving a car in real world.
There is so much noise and effects going on which feel completely unrealistic.
And of course I gave GT7 a go after 14 days not having it played, and to be honest GT7 feels very very similar to the Crew Motorfest.
The differences are very small.

But back to my question can anyone around give me some numbers.
As always any info is highly appreciated 🙂


You can access the Tuning Menu via your Wheel.
There is a small button on the wheel which once pressed opens the tuning Menu on your Wheel Display.

@roytheboy is this something you know or can estimate a ballpark of?

 

[Yard_Sale]

@roytheboy is this something you know or can estimate a ballpark of?

…and also


Is “sensitivity” a multiplier of FFB signal?

I’m still having a hard time figuring out how “sensitivity” works for high powered DD bases

 

[hrtrob]

Hi
Could you be so kind to explain how you downgrade the 456 base firmare back to 455 Firmware on the DD+ ?

I was on 456 but experienced dropouts in just about any sim as everyone else with this driver. I uninstalled the 456 driver and installed the 454 driver and it seems to be fine on the PC so far after several hours of testing. But it would still be good to know how to downgrade the Firmware properly.

If you ask this question on Reddit you get answers like, dont fix what isnt broken, but my DD+ didnt work properly when installing for the first time on 455 as it got stuck in update mode, so i had to flash on a different driver to get out of the stuck in update mode.

Thanks for answers in advance

I simply uninstalled driver 456, installed 455 then manually downgraded the base only. See page 12 of the manual here:

https://fanatec.com/media/pdf/a6/ee/64/Driver-Firmware-Instructions-Manual-EN_Web_02_MO.pdf

 

[BWX]

…and also


Is “sensitivity” a multiplier of FFB signal?

I’m still having a hard time figuring out how “sensitivity” works for high powered DD bases

Sensitivity is the wheel rotation. AUTO is what game intends it to be by default. It'll be the same as setting it to 720 degrees or 900 degrees or whatever the car is in game, if you set it manually. If you change it to a lower number the steering will be quicker, a higher number will be slower steering, but more rotation of the wheel to go full lock.
Also I noticed if you lower this, you need to lower FFB power because it seem to ramp up if this setting is lowered, and if you go higher than car in game, the FFB will be weaker feeling.

What I do wonder if is "AUTO" setting is a static number or does the game use a differential so it's faster towards the end of rotation or slower around center, or if it changes with speed of the car if left on auto like some cars in real life would do if they have speed sensitive steering. I'm not sure if GT7 does that but I haven't noticed it.

Edit - Oh you were talking about in game 😆

 

[PirovacBoy]

…and also


Is “sensitivity” a multiplier of FFB signal?

I’m still having a hard time figuring out how “sensitivity” works for high powered DD bases

The in game Sliders for GT7 work as the following.
Torque is the basic setting for the cars weight transfer and also the suspension.
Sensitivity is the Tire Load and Road effects as well as how quick the tire feedback is being communicated.

Both of these two settings have to be adjusted to your personal driving style.

Both of these should be balanced in a way that Weight Transfer AND tire load blend in together, kind of merge.
None of them should overpower the other one to provide the most precise Feedback across the whole dynamic range.

Again, depending on your personal preference as well as your general driving style or driving approach you can slightly vary them.

5/5 is PDs' recommended setting as it's the most balanced logically.

However we don't know which Wheelbase has been used during the development of the FFB Code, and therefore there might be more variables to it.

Nonetheless and as always, FFB is a very personal thing and everyone enjoys a different flavor.

So in conclusion to give you an answer to your opening question, no, the sensitivity slider doesn't act as a FFB multiplier.
It acts more as an FFB accelerator and brings the Dynamic Range of the FFB signal closer or spreads it wider depending on how high or low you might have set it.