Fanatec GT2 With Clubsport Pedals Issue

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kcheeb

kcheeb

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kcheeb
kcheeb
Hey,

The last few times I've been driving in GT5 with my, Fanatec GT2 and Clubsport Pedals, occasionally the accelerator seems to max out at around 75%.

I was using the RF dongle and thought it might be some interference, so I switched to the usb cable, same result.

Only fix I've found so far is to power the GT2 off and back on. All is well again.

This isn't going to work well in any online racing I do though, pausing is a little problematic :-)

Anyway, has anyone experience this phenomenon and/or have you found a fix? Or is it off to Fanatec CS?

Thanks!
 
Gdog96
Are you sure that everytime you start the game you press all the pedals down fully to calibrate them?
Click to expand...

Wasn't aware that I need to calibrate them when I start the game. What do I do? Just press each pedal individually when the game starts up?

Thanks for the response!
 
I have the same setup (GT2 and clubsports) with the standard Porsche shifter permanently attached. So far I've never noticed this issue, but my wheel is only a couple of months old and I've been admittedly playing far more Forza than GT5.

I always use a USB cable though, not sure if that would make a difference.
 
skazz
I have the same setup (GT2 and clubsports) with the standard Porsche shifter permanently attached. So far I've never noticed this issue, but my wheel is only a couple of months old and I've been admittedly playing far more Forza than GT5.

I always use a USB cable though, not sure if that would make a difference.
Click to expand...

No shifter on my setup and I am using the usb cable now. Wheel and pedals are only 5 or 6 months old.
 
kcheeb
No shifter on my setup and I am using the usb cable now. Wheel and pedals are only 5 or 6 months old.
Click to expand...

Mine are the SAME age. I am experiencing similar issues. But mine is the clutch now stays fully engaged/open, and when connected to the wheel, messes up wheel calibration. PC, only the clutch issue.

I am in contact with support. But, since they are SO busy with requests, it will be a few days til I hear back. But, there CS is much improved, and email them, you will hear something within 1 week as long as you follow their list.
 
kcheeb
No shifter on my setup and I am using the usb cable now. Wheel and pedals are only 5 or 6 months old.
Click to expand...

I forgot to mention something else, though: When I first got my clubsports there was a bit of a creak/hinder in the movement of the accelerator at around 90%. Sometimes I would push it that far and think it was completely pressed, then only afterwards realise that there was another 10% of pedal movement to go.

In my case this was with the pedal set so that both bolts in the throw were right up by the pedal surface, and the spring was at the least pressured setting. I rotated one of the bolts down, increasing spring tension, and this caused the accelerator pedal to have a smooth throw all the way from 0-100%. Of course, this shouldn't have happened, but it all looks good so I couldn't see why there was something strange happening at 90% with the spring on least tension.

You should have a good look at your pedal, see if the 75% is at full throw of the pedal, or whether you are experiencing something similar to me.
 
skazz
I forgot to mention something else, though: When I first got my clubsports there was a bit of a creak/hinder in the movement of the accelerator at around 90%. Sometimes I would push it that far and think it was completely pressed, then only afterwards realise that there was another 10% of pedal movement to go.

In my case this was with the pedal set so that both bolts in the throw were right up by the pedal surface, and the spring was at the least pressured setting. I rotated one of the bolts down, increasing spring tension, and this caused the accelerator pedal to have a smooth throw all the way from 0-100%. Of course, this shouldn't have happened, but it all looks good so I couldn't see why there was something strange happening at 90% with the spring on least tension.

You should have a good look at your pedal, see if the 75% is at full throw of the pedal, or whether you are experiencing something similar to me.
Click to expand...

Will check it out tonight for sure, although turning the GT2 off and on causes the issue to go away.

Thanks man!
 
Found it! It was the brake being partially engaged that was causing the engine to not rev out in the higher gears. It was on maybe 1/8th.

Might have a load sensor issue. Some more testing in order.
 
kcheeb
Wasn't aware that I need to calibrate them when I start the game. What do I do? Just press each pedal individually when the game starts up?

Thanks for the response!
Click to expand...

Just in the first time you go on track, fully press each pedal to let the game know the complete travel, otherwise they become overly sensitive, although I doubt this is your problem as it sounds as if you are pressing it fully, and that would calibrate it.
 
Gdog96
Just in the first time you go on track, fully press each pedal to let the game know the complete travel, otherwise they become overly sensitive, although I doubt this is your problem as it sounds as if you are pressing it fully, and that would calibrate it.
Click to expand...

Thanks gdog, I'll give it a go. 'most' of the time the pedals are fine ...
 
OP, yes I've had this with my PWTS and CSP. Not on GT5 but with the Forza 4 demo and C.A.R.S on PC. Drops to about 95% throttle and the only way to clear is to turn the wheel off and on. Note I've only experienced this after extended sessions, 2+ hours which makes me think maybe something in the wheel is getting over heated and a reboot clears it?

If I get it again I intend to test the pedals by connecting them directly to my PC and see if I get full travel.
 
I'm starting to think it's the load cell in the brake.

When the brake stays on, I found out I can unplug and replug the CSP's into the GT2 and the brake is no longer applied. Went Saturday having to do it almost every race (4-5 hours of driving). Sunday it only happened twice (6-7 hours of driving).

Getting in the habit of doing before every race now until I can switch out the load cell.
 
Hmmmmm, the plot thickens. Been playing F1 2011 for the last couple of days and have had no issues with the brake being stuck partially on.

Fired up GT5 last night and within half a lap the brake was stuck partially on. Did three more races and had to unplug the pedals twice.
 
Have you grounded the seat/cockpit?
Fanatec wheels/CSP pedals are known to have issues related to static electricity.

Everytime you experienced these problems you played a lot, right?
If that's the case then there's your answer mate.
 
Energizerrr
Have you grounded the seat/cockpit?
Fanatec wheels/CSP pedals are known to have issues related to static electricity.

Everytime you experienced these problems you played a lot, right?
If that's the case then there's your answer mate.
Click to expand...

Everytime I play I play a lot :-) Except it happened last night and I only played GT5 for about half an hour. Was in F1 2011 for an hour and a half.

I'd considered doing that, as I've read a bunch of peoples woes get sorted by doing it. Didn't want to go to the bother, but may be forced to now.

Thanks and will post back the results.
 
kcheeb
Hmmmmm, the plot thickens. Been playing F1 2011 for the last couple of days and have had no issues with the brake being stuck partially on.

Fired up GT5 last night and within half a lap the brake was stuck partially on. Did three more races and had to unplug the pedals twice.
Click to expand...

The GT games seem to be much more sensitive around zero on the pedals than most other games. When my throttle started acting up it was much more noticeable in GT5 than anything else, that's for sure. If I had done the intelligent thing and stuck to rFactor I wouldn't even have known about it for a couple more months.


Hmm, I wonder if my thick carpet had anything to do with it, if static is a known problem. I don't have a rig, just pedals on the floor, and I need them moveable between the PS3 and PC, so not sure what I'd do about that.
 
Morgoth_666
The GT games seem to be much more sensitive around zero on the pedals than most other games. When my throttle started acting up it was much more noticeable in GT5 than anything else, that's for sure. If I had done the intelligent thing and stuck to rFactor I wouldn't even have known about it for a couple more months.


Hmm, I wonder if my thick carpet had anything to do with it, if static is a known problem. I don't have a rig, just pedals on the floor, and I need them moveable between the PS3 and PC, so not sure what I'd do about that.
Click to expand...

This weekend I'm going to bodge up a makeshift way to ground the chair. If it corrects my issue, I'll post back what I did. It would likely be portable and may work for you.

Thanks for the info about GT5 being more sensitive.
 
Energizerrr
Have you grounded the seat/cockpit?
Fanatec wheels/CSP pedals are known to have issues related to static electricity.

Everytime you experienced these problems you played a lot, right?
If that's the case then there's your answer mate.
Click to expand...

Can you expand on what you know about Fanatec wheels/CSP having static electricity issues? I believe I'm having issues that are being caused by static or some type of electrical issue. I've narrowed my issue down to the wheel and my Buttkicker. If I have the speaker wire from the Buttkicker connected to the Buttkicker I get USB disconnect tones from my PC every time I get up out of my rig after driving. I can recreate this almost every time I sit down and then get back up out of the rig. I have even unbolted the Buttkicker from the metal frame that my seat is mounted to and the problem remains as long as I have the Buttkicker plugged into the amp.
 
Thought I'd post back my findings after I grounded the playseat to the main house ground.

The issue with the brake being partially engaged hasn't gone away completely. The first time I race, after booting everything, the brake ends up partially engaged. I unplug and replug the CSP's into the wheel and never look back.

Happened the same Saturday and Sunday.
 
Update: After going close to a full month with next to no issues with the brake being applied, last night it was partially engaged at some point for every race I took part in.

Major frustration setting in, then I noticed a couple of things.

1. With the Buttkicker on the brake application would oscillate to the ground noise of driving.
2. With the Buttkicker off the brake application did not oscillate at all. It would go partially on and stay on.

Again unplugging and plugging the pedals in or cycling the power would 'reset' the brake, but they'd come back on shortly there after.

I thought I'd tried this before, but apparently not or with no success, I snuck my foot under the brake pedal and pulled back. The brake application went away.

Seems there was enough forward pressure to occasionally engage the load cell, or maybe it was not enough rearward pressure to disengage the pedal from the load cell. Either way it turns out my issue was a mechanical one.

I monkeyed around with the pedal and couldn't find anything obviously awry with it. I did give the pedal a reasonable yank backwards and was able to race without having the issue happen again.

Anyone have any suggestions on ways to permanently rectify the issue?
 
Try adjusting the loadcell adjustment knob so it requires a little bit more pressure to activate your brakes. Also make sure the 2 set screws holding the load cell in its bracket are good and tight.
I would suggest loosening.them and making sure your load cell is as far down its housing as possible before retightening.
Another thing to try is removing the spring and spring guide rod. Inspect the rod and the black load cell housing for any potential kicks or burs as they may be holding the pedal a little bit.

One easy thing to also try, when you first turn your pedals on, rest your foot lightly on the brake. Dont press, just rest it there. This MAY calibrate the brake pedal with a minor deadzone from the weight if your foot. I say may as I have never conciously calibrated my pedals.
 
It does sounds like your loadcell is acting up, also with a PC I would adjust the brake so it is set without having to push the pedal all the way down. Not sure if it can be done with just a PS3.


**edit**
I know you seen this thread and I think you you said grounding your rig you have no issue with your buttkicker, have you tried unplugging the buttkicker just to rule out that as an issue?
 
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Hey left,

I'm still leaning towards it being mechanical, because when I pull back on the pedal, the partial on stops. I'll check in the docs as to how to adjust how much pedal is needed to activate. Not sure if it's the adjustment knob on the pedals.

I don't get any hum from my Buttkicker, I'm using the 300W one, not the gamer so there's no direct connection to the Buttkicker amp and my sound system. I did try this with the Buttkicker turned off and no change.

Thanks.
 
Well interesting but inconclusive night.

Drove four races in GT5 with no partial brake on. That's the way right, when you want it to happen ...

Switched over to get my first taste of iRacing and noticed occasionally the brake would be partially on, without the pedal being depressed. So I turned the brake adjustment knob back 1/4 - 1/3 of the way and it cured it from happening in iRacing.

Adjusting the brake knob back made no difference in GT5, from a braking feel perspective so that's a plus. Not sure if I've proved anything here, but will keep my eye out.

Going to take the pedals apart this weekend as I want to try some of the different spring out. Will look at load sensor placement and connection then.
 
What a weekend, had the pedals apart 7 or 8 times, and learned a lot about what to do and what not to do when adjusting/changing parts on the pedals.

At any rate, after taking them apart, inspecting and reassembling, the brakes were not behaving well at all. So I decided I should swap out the load cell, which I did.

I went into the Fanatec setup on my PC to test the pedals (brake) and all seemed well. Full functionality, nary a hint of partial on with the brake.

I spent an hour in iRacing without issue and about 4 hours in GT5 as well. Not willing to say it's 'fixed' as I've had stints like this before.

One other thing of interest I changed, and I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it, but, too reach my PS3 and PC I had to use a USB cable extension. For the last two days, I've been driving without the extension.

I didn't get a chance to test with the extension back in place, but I will tonight.

Cheers.
 

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