Fanatec GT2 With Clubsport Pedals Issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter kcheeb
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OP, yes I've had this with my PWTS and CSP. Not on GT5 but with the Forza 4 demo and C.A.R.S on PC. Drops to about 95% throttle and the only way to clear is to turn the wheel off and on. Note I've only experienced this after extended sessions, 2+ hours which makes me think maybe something in the wheel is getting over heated and a reboot clears it?

If I get it again I intend to test the pedals by connecting them directly to my PC and see if I get full travel.

Thought I should update this to say my problem has been fixed by replacing the PCB/sensor that is mounted on the accelerator pedal. As Fanatec managed to send me two replacement kits (which include both accelerator and clutch) I'm covered should I be unlucky enough to suffer the same fault again in the future.
 
Hopefully the final update ...

Left888, I believe you were right.

Since replacing the load cell I've not had one instance of the brake being partially applied with no pressure on the brake pedal. Not sure if it became too sensitive or what the issue was, but I'm glad it's sorted now.

It's been tested with and without grounding and with and without the usb extension.

Thanks all, for your suggestions.
 
Thought I should update this to say my problem has been fixed by replacing the PCB/sensor that is mounted on the accelerator pedal. As Fanatec managed to send me two replacement kits (which include both accelerator and clutch) I'm covered should I be unlucky enough to suffer the same fault again in the future.

Unfortunately the cables are different lengths and the one for the clutch won't reach the accelerator. I found this out when I changed mine and it didn't work right, thought I'd just try the other one but no go. Turns out my problem was solved by repositioning the magnet in the accelerator. It's funny how they can be both so resistant to all the forces being applied and the eyballing adjustments done by hand, and yet the slightest bit out of whack the wrong way and suddenly undriveable.

It may well be possible to manually switch the cables to the sensors of course, the PCBs appear identical.
 
Turns out my problem was solved by repositioning the magnet in the accelerator. It's funny how they can be both so resistant to all the forces being applied and the eyballing adjustments done by hand, and yet the slightest bit out of whack the wrong way and suddenly undriveable.

I found that out the hard way this past weekend. Working on the brake and all of a sudden my accelerator wouldn't work. A bit of blue air then ... Thanks to the internet I was able to figure it out though!
 
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