Fanatec GT3 RS V2....My Experience

  • Thread starter Welda
  • 313 comments
  • 50,511 views

How important is customer service to you.

  • Not very important...I just want my wheel to work properly.

    Votes: 6 8.7%

  • important...but will not influence my purchace

    Votes: 23 33.3%

  • Very important....it will influence what I decide to buy

    Votes: 40 58.0%
  • Total voters
    69
Chibana
Mine just arrived. Can't wait to get home and hook it up to my obutto ozone.
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I bet! I ran to the hardware store and grabbed 1" and 1 1/2" 6mm machine screws to hard mount the wheel. Anything Metric is rare in my garage except for sockets and wrenches.

I printed out the drilling template from Fanatecs support page but I'm going to make sure that the template matches the wheel before I start drilling. I'm going through 3/4" ply so hopefully the 1 1/2" will work good. I don't want to damage anything on the inside of the wheel by going in to far.

That's why I also got the 1". Just in case. Besides they are the only 2 lengths they had at the hardware store.

I have no idea how I'm going to mount the CSP inverted yet to the piece of plywood I have ready and waiting for them. Mounting the piece to my rig is all set up. Just have to see how to mount the pedals to the ply.

I probably wont do that today though. Come on Mr. UPS guy!!! lol..
 
DaveTheStalker
Ok, I have a major problem and I can't find any info on this specifically. I adjusted the throw on my CSP Brake. Now (with max load cell adjusted) I am only getting about 50% brake. This is on GT5 and the software. I do not see an option to reset the brakes or calibrate them.

I had a problem earlier with the throttle not always going to 100%. This was solved by tightening the 3 screws on the magnetic sensor.

As for settings, loom a few posts back. Not 3, 5, or maybe 10,. Keep looking back until you do find them. Basically start with the basics... nothing added.
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I did not have that problem when I reduced the brake throw, but I thought the feel was overly aggressive in that reduced position. I Have the ClubSport tuning kit and wound up replacing all the bushings with upgraded brass ones. I also relubed the PU brake foam and switched to the 3mm shorter brake spacer. You could probably cut down your existing spacer 3mm. Feels much better now, if you want something that feels like an aggressive street brake vs a race brake. I don't know if that would resolve your possible issue that you had with the load sensor.

I'm also not sure how to reduce throttle travel, given the hall effect sensors.
 
JerkinJohn
I bet! I ran to the hardware store and grabbed 1" and 1 1/2" 6mm machine screws to hard mount the wheel. Anything Metric is rare in my garage except for sockets and wrenches.

I printed out the drilling template from Fanatecs support page but I'm going to make sure that the template matches the wheel before I start drilling. I'm going through 3/4" ply so hopefully the 1 1/2" will work good. I don't want to damage anything on the inside of the wheel by going in to far.

That's why I also got the 1". Just in case. Besides they are the only 2 lengths they had at the hardware store.

I have no idea how I'm going to mount the CSP inverted yet to the piece of plywood I have ready and waiting for them. Mounting the piece to my rig is all set up. Just have to see how to mount the pedals to the ply.

I probably wont do that today though. Come on Mr. UPS guy!!! lol..
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it actualy comes with right hardware already...it is taped inside one of the little boxs...I almost threw them away:) not sure how thick the mounting plate you are using is but if it is too thick 3/16 or thicker you will have to get longer ones....I used 3/16 for my plate and countersunk the holes that I drilled out to 6mm. I hope this help, good luck.

EDIT: Sorry just noticed you are using 3/4....You will def need to go back to get the correct size....that little symbol that says 6mm and a circle with a slash through it is a holes size call out.
 
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Also I finished the clamp mechanism at work today...Through some 316ss hex stock in the CNC and made nuts for my T-rods
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I will post more pics after it is mounted.
 
Welda
it actualy comes with 4mm hardware already...

that little symbol that says 6mm and a circle with a slash through it is a holes size call out.
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Are you saying that the machine screws are 4mm that screw into the wheel? And they just tell you drill a 6mm hole?


EDIT: Heading back to the hardware store now! Ups guy hasn't showed up yet. What a PITA, I would never had guessed they where talking about the hole size! I think I could of managed that myself! lol...
 
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Yeah...I read blueprints all day...so that hole call out was simple...but if you didnt then it could be confusing....it will all be worth it.
 
Welda
Yeah...I read blueprints all day...so that hole call out was simple...but if you didnt then it could be confusing....it will all be worth it.
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Thanks bro! You just saved me a swearing episode! I didn't pick up on that I guess because I am assuming since every thing is metric and from germany that they use different symbols for different things.

Like the time my EX girlfriend bought a painting from china that was 40 * 80. lol.. That was some night when that got delivered let me tell ya.

Any how being here in the US and being a carpenter we only use 100th/tenths of a foot and feet and inches. Nothing metric what so ever.

Those machined screws you made up look awesome btw! If Fanatec see this mount you are constructing you better watch they don't steel your ideas! lol...
 
I am glad you got it straightend out....Thanks for the compliments, if fanatec wants to copy it...then they can have at it...the next one I build will be sweeeeett, this was just a prototype. but the nuts will stay, they work awesome.

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My gas pedal bar is squeaking. Yes I lubes it with the Metal Lube that comes in the tuning kit. It's well lubed to the point of dripping excess. It's really annoying!!!
 
I where Turtle beach headphones when I play....cant hear any squeaks.
One thing I did notice last night and I will post more as soon as I give it a bit more time, after a 50 lap race the housing was warm....warmer than I think I would like it....Electronics= Heat....Heat Bad.... Probably a circulation issue. I will keep you posted on what I come up with. I still think this wheel is Awesome:)
 
After doing an hour of Trial Mountain for the WRS last night, mine was warm also. But, consider how HOT RC Car motors get when used in RC cars. After races, sometimes they had to cool down for a while before I could remove them to do a full discharge.

I do think the ventilation system could use a revamp to move a bit more air in and out.
 
Yeah the design is alright. I could see someone adding vents between the two regular vents. You could also replace the fan with another fan for more airflow(I would suggest heavy research before you do so, no need to be wasting money after a $300ish purchase).
 
Welda
John...What are your thoughts???
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Okay, well I'm still sorting things out. The boxes where in mint condition and the wheel and pedals don't have a scratch on them. Had to inspect everything first of course.

I first worked on the pedals. I placed them in my rig and decided to remove the spacer bar behind the gas pedal. Then fliped the other 2 spacers behind the brake and clutch and moved the clutch pedal pad over towards the left more while I had it apart.

Then the pedals where in a good position/angle in my rig for now until I invert them. Downloaded the driver and made sure they where working okay which they are. On the PC there is sort of a profiler were you can test everything including the brake vibration feature. All good there.

Then I started on the wheel and to my sadness the 4mm screws I got are to small. Way to small. The threads in the wheel look atleast 6mm so I couldn't hard mount it to my rig because I just exchanged the 6mm for the 4mm.

So I used the clamp "which is cheesy I must say!" until tomorrow when I can get back to the hardware store. It says in the manual for the wheel that using the profiler for some settings is recommended. So I did that jumped into RACE 07 and calibrated the wheel "quickly" and right now I'm stumped because besides some vibration over curbs and a little loosness while braking I am not feeling a hole lot of FFB.

It almost feels the same way as when I turn the wheel without being in the sim. I don't know... I have much to do here. I am multitasking with interupting phone calls and stuff around the house distrating me.

Will report back in a bit after trying rFactor and making some adjutments with the settings and such.
 
I am sorry for causing you that swearing episode...I assumed because I drilled the holes @ 6mm and there was alot of slop in them with the stock hardware....I didnt actualy put a Vernier on them.... and on the Template it called out for a 6mm O/,My bad.
What is your FF setting on? Not sure what the recomended settings are for the cpu.
Again man I am sorry for the mis info:( how did the angle feel?
 
Making big progress here! 👍 All in the settings of the sim really! Totaly different setting then my DFGT! I'll be back with another report shortly :)
 
John, didn't yours come with the screws? I set mine up tonight, too. Both my wheel and the CSP came with 6mm screws I was able to use to mount the wheel onto my ozone. I still have plenty more to mount the CSP to the pedal plate on the zone if I want (and I think I'm going to want, because the CSP lifts off the plate when I brake hard if I don't put some weight on it with my left foot).

I also felt surprised by how little/light the FFB is. I have it set to 10 in game (GT5) and 100 on the wheel. It does feel a bit better and more realistic to me than the more "on/off" feel I had with the G25, but I'm still surprised by how light it is when driving over the apex curbs, etc. Overall, the wheel and pedals feel closer to driving a real car, but I expected stronger FFB. I'm wondering if my expectations don't match reality well. I've never had any of my own cars on the track (other than a couple of parade laps at Mid-Ohio with the Mazda group, and I don't think I drove over any curbs). Overall, I like the setup very much (especially the pedals), but I can't wait to get the shifter (May is a long wait--it's just not the same driving with paddle shifters on cars that should be stick shifts). I'm anxious to try this setup with "NFS: Shift 2 Unleashed." I've pre-ordered it. NFS: Shift (1) seemed to have better steering feel than GT5P to me, so I'm hoping that Shift 2 will continue that trend and maybe be a bit closer to what I had with GTR2.
 
Welda
I am sorry for causing you that swearing episode...,My bad.
What is your FF setting on? Again man I am sorry for the mis info:( how did the angle feel?
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It's totally cool man! You where trying to help and I appreciate it very much! The hardware store is only a block and a half down the street! It's just they were closed by the time I realized the error.

Still fiddling with RACE 07. Want to get that nailed down before I move on to the next sim. I just needed to turn up my FFB settings and on the PC sims there are a ton of settings and tweaks so it's a tedious task! I had to go through it with the DFGT. I'm just shocked how different this wheel reacts to the settings I make.

I have to get this thing hard mounted ASAP though because the cheesy clamp is screwing up the true experience. It holds tight to the lip of the surface but did you notice how the front will lift up if you apply some weight to the top of the wheel?

The bigger diameter wheel is awesome. First because with my rig the way things line up and my FOV the wheel and dash look like they are together and thats one of the things I was hopping for. In other words you know how when you sit in your car and the dash is behind the wheel. Well that's just how things are lining up. Ill have pics tomorrow to show ya what I mean.

Now if the house hold members would leave me be I could continue with my experience with this. Probably post again before the night is over but so far it's going well and it really is a totally different animal then the geared logitech! Thats for sure!
 
Chibana
John, didn't yours come with the screws?

I also felt surprised by how little/light the FFB is.

Overall, the wheel and pedals feel closer to driving a real car, but I expected stronger FFB.
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I'll check the box again but all that I have found is the screws for the paddle shifters. That's it!

I think the experience is so different than the logitechs that we need to adjust. That's all... And I agree with you that it's a much more realistic feel.
 
The little bags with screws were taped to various cardboard pieces in the boxes. Actually, now that I think of it, one of the two bags of screws I found was in the box with the table clamp (which I'm not currently using). I can't remember which box the other bag was in--the CSP or the wheel, but it was taped inside one of the cardboard packing pieces.
 
Chibana
The little bags with screws were taped to various cardboard pieces in the boxes. Actually, now that I think of it, one of the two bags of screws I found was in the box with the table clamp (which I'm not currently using). I can't remember which box the other bag was in--the CSP or the wheel, but it was taped inside one of the cardboard packing pieces.
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If you are referring to the extra screws that come with the CSP they are much to short! I am going through 3/4 Plywood. Those screws that come with the pedals are for when you remove the spacer block behind the pedal pad. If you should decide to do so in the future.

My table clamp was already installed on the wheel. Didn't come in a separate box inside the main wheel box. Idk... But no screws for me I guess. I doubt they would be long enough anyhow. I double checked my wheel box again and nothin.

I do have a slight squeak coming from the clutch but like welda I wear a pair of Tritton head phones so no biggie. Ill look further into that when I take them apart.

Race 07 and rFactor are running very well so far with this wheel. Just need to fine tune. First thing tomorrow I'm gonna hard mount it "which is a must IMO" and then eventually get GT5 going with it. It's good that each car I have tried has a wide range of FFB effects with this wheel.

I generally race SSTC, WTCC, GT Pro/club/sport and some Cart and formula from time to time. I jumped in a formula car at long beach and the feel with the wheel was awesome!

Lovin the pedals also so far!
 
Had a "wow" moment earlier that never happened with the G25 quite like this. I was in a slow car, I believe it was the Civic at Eiger FF Seasonal Event.

I was diving into one of the slow tight turns on the inside of another car. That car turned in and hit my front end. The wheel suddenly jerked just a bit more to the left with quite a bit of force! It was the sort of FFB that comes from the X1 or F1 white knuckle death grip!

It was a very cool surprise amidst all of the buttery smoothness that already impresses me about the GT3rs :)

I have the game FFB at 7 and the wheel is set at 100.

Still not sure what I should do about the liberally lubed throttle bar squeaking. Again, I want to shorten the throw, but I don't see how to calibrate or reset the CSP.

ESIT: Squeak found! I did some close listening and I thought it was coming from the [factory] brass bushings. Lubed 'em up and that didn't solve it. Listened a little closer and it was coming from the bright aluminum block that pivots where the spring bar mounts to, and where the throw is adjusted.
 
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After running some long races last night, I have come to the conclusion that it is def a airflow issue, a small fan cured the problem...it ran cool...I set it up blowing through the slot that the stock table clamp was in. I used a cpu fan blowing up through the bottom and attached it with velcro and a little 200mph tape....this totaly solved the problem....but it was just tempory. I am thinking about designing it into my next table clamp. I will weld some small tapped lugs onto the bottom of the wheel plate blowing up through the housing....you could say it is "Supercharged"
Great wheel though...Dave you are exactly right...the first time you get into a big Wreck....you say Wow!!! I think it needs a few more little tweeks and it will be good.
But it is 100% more realistic than the dfgt on gt5 anyways. That is just my opinion.....But when I used to let go of the wheel on a straight....with the dfgt it would start a "Tank slapping" movement Side to side rapid movement....not with this wheel.
smooth and very predictable:)
 
Well I have been a very busy beaver this morning! I got some pics :)

I took apart the CSP as instructed by the german guy on Fanatecs website. Then switched the wires and pedal springs around so the clutch was gas and vice versa.

Then I had to make some minor mods to my sim pod in order to get the now inverted pedals at the right distance in the pod.

Also hard mounted the wheel first thing this morning. That was the easy part of the morning :indiff:

Also since I switched the pedals around there is no more squeak coming from what used to be the clutch. I also stiffened the gas and clutch springs as well.

The pedals and wheel are mounted rock solid 👍 Especially for when my buddy comes over and try's this thing, he is 6' 3" and hard on the pedals and wheel like he is driving a real car so I didn't want them to move at all.

So far all the components are working perfect with each other. The SST shifter, pedals and wheel are all plugged in to separate USB's so I get a higher resolution with each piece of hardware.

Now time for fine tuning which will probably take at least a few day's I figure. Once I get the FFB settings just right then I will be able to make a positive final assessment on the wheel. Already in love with the CSP that's for sure. The wheel for me is just going to take the right settings and some getting used to. Got to love the diameter and the material it's rapped in right off the bat!

Well here are some pics :sly:

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