Fanatec GT7 settings (F1 2.5 wheel)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Lightpilgrim
  • 35 comments
  • 5,058 views
Lightpilgrim

Lightpilgrim

Messages
903
Poland
Poland
Messages
A_Dylikowski
Hi all,

I’m currently running the following setup and wanted to get your views:

Wheel: Fanatec Formula V2.5
Base: Fanatec DD Extreme

Wheel settings (Luke / Digit style baseline):
SEN → AUTO
FFB → ~60–65
FFS → PEAK
NDP → 0
NFR → 5
NIN → 0
INT → 1
FEI → 100
FOR → 100
SPR → OFF
DPR → OFF

In-game (GT7):
Max Torque → 10
Sensitivity → 10

I’m currently hesitating specifically around the in-game settings.

On one side, I’ve heard the philosophy that running everything at 10 in-game gives you the full signal, and then it’s easier to fine-tune using the wheel/base settings rather than limiting things in-game.

On the other hand, with 10/10 the wheel feels very heavy and quite aggressive, and I’m not sure if I’m losing precision and consistency because of that.

Curious what you guys are running for:
[*]Max Torque
[*]Sensitivity

Especially if you’re on DD setups and focusing on control, trail braking, and consistency.

My wheel feels super heavy, so trying to figure out where is the proper fix.
 
Last edited:
I think the philosophy is higher on wheel and lower in game.

I run the Extreme at 80% on the wheel and 3-4 in game, depending on the car. Sensitivity at 1.

Edit - If my teenager wasn’t using the wheel I’d probably have it at 100%
 
Last edited:
This is where I am a bit lost. If you check what Luke Nodaro and Digit will use, it will be the other way around, 10 torque and 10 sensitivity in the game. That is where I am lost. It is not that people are slightly different, these the a complete opposite




bliprunner
I think the philosophy is higher on wheel and lower in game.

I run the Extreme at 80% on the wheel and 3-4 in game, depending on the car. Sensitivity at 1.

Edit - If my teenager wasn’t using the wheel I’d probably have it at 100%
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
If you adjust your wheelbase torque lower than 100, you effectively cap the NM output of the base in-game. 60=~9nm on your base. Hence why it's generally recommended to lower in-game settings.

Those settings you got from that Youtuber are horrible. Your wheel feels super heavy because it's clipping. You're getting just a dull heavy force with no information. The youtuber you watched is flat out wrong on getting the full signal with with max torque at 10 and FFB on the base lowered. It's the other way around. You will never get the full signal if you lower FFB on the base past 100.

GT7 FFB doesn't scale linearly for each Max Torque setting in terms of NM output from the base. So at around Max Torque 7 in-game, depending on car, you run into clipping. When I had my Podium DD1 with the live torque readout, I could confirm this.

Upping it to 10 just saturates the forces further. Use Max torque of like 2-3 with the base at 100. You're falling into the trap where every new wheel user messes with settings too much.
 
Last edited:
You know what’s difficult? When I try to research and educate myself, the information is completely opposite.

People are saying totally different things. Someone says in-game sensitivity should be 1, someone else says 10. It’s not 5, it’s not 8, it’s not 2 or 3 — it’s either 1 or 10. Same with torque: some people say keep it low, others say run it at 10.

Then I watch videos from Digit and Luke — these guys are among the fastest in the game. So how can I not trust what they do? But when I try their kind of settings, I can barely turn the wheel.

So I’m honestly not certain which way to go.

What I would really like is to start from a very good base, something solid, and then fine-tune from there.

Right now, what I feel is that in long, high-speed corners, I really fight the wheel quite a bit. It’s good in terms of understanding the corner and I’m quite precise with my inputs, but it feels like my arms are going to explode. And by any means, I’m not a weak person — I’m quite strong.

That’s where I’m at.


The Crock
If you adjust your wheelbase torque lower than 100, you effectively cap the NM output of the base in-game. 60=~9nm on your base. Hence why it's generally recommended to lower in-game settings.

Those settings you got from that Youtuber are horrible. Your wheel feels super heavy because it's clipping. You're getting just a dull heavy force with no information. The youtuber you watched is flat out wrong on getting the full signal with with max torque at 10 and FFB on the base lowered.

GT7 FFB doesn't scale linearly for each Max Torque setting in terms of NM output from the base. So at around Max Torque 7 in-game, depending on car, you run into clipping. When I had my Podium DD1 with the live torque readout, I could confirm this.

Upping it to 10 just saturates the forces further. Use Max torque of like 2-3 with the base at 100. You're falling into the trap where every new wheel user messes with settings too much.
Click to expand...
 
Go to the Fanatec forum. Their own employees will confirm what I said. GT7 not having linear FFB out was confirmed by Maurice himself. That's partially how I've been able to confirm a lot of what I said. Having had a Podium DD1 with a torque readout on screen confirmed the rest. If I capped the base at 50, it never went past 10nm output even on Max torque 10 in GT7. A fast YouTuber is just that, a fast YouTuber. Doesn't mean they understand how FFB works inside and out on a specific wheelbase.

FFB is very personal. That's why you hear different things, right, wrong and everything in-between. If you're struggling to turn the wheel that means you need to lower FFB it doesn't really matter how strong you think you are. Simple as that. Try 100 on the base and 2-3 like I said before. Do that for 1 month. Don't go looking for any other settings and just get used to what the game is trying to tell you.
 
Last edited:
So what do you recommend a good base, both in game and fanatec?

The Crock
Go to the Fanatec forum. Their own employees will confirm what I said. GT7 not having linear FFB out was confirmed by Maurice himself. That's partially how I've been able to confirm a lot of what I said. Having had a Podium DD1 with a torque readout on screen confirmed the rest. If I capped the base at 50, it never went past 10nm output even on Max torque 10 in GT7. A fast YouTuber is just that, a fast YouTuber. Doesn't mean they understand how FFB works inside and out on a specific wheelbase.
Click to expand...
 
Lightpilgrim
10 torque and 10 sensitivity in the game.
Click to expand...
The game setting isn’t “torque” though, it’s just a level from 1 to 10.

Think of it like this; if you set your wheel to 10% power and the game to maximum, no matter what the game asks for you are never getting more than 10% of the wheel torque (1.5nm) in your hands. That’s not going to provide enough force or detail.

FFB settings are very personal, everyone will tell you something different, there is no right answer, just preference.
 
Last edited:
Lightpilgrim
So what do you recommend a good base, both in game and fanatec?
Click to expand...
For me, Max Torque at 2-3 for road cars and 4 for GT3s, etc. For you, I'd just start at 2 since the Formula 2.5 wheel is small and that amplifies instead of dampening forces from the base.

Sensitivity always at 1.

Base is always at 100.

Some Damper, Natural Friction and Inertia but not too much. I use 12,5,3 respectively most times.
 
Last edited:
Will try tomorrow and report back

The Crock
For me, Max Torque at 2-3 for road cars and 4 for GT3s, etc. For you, I'd just start at 2 since the Formula 2.5 wheel is small and that amplifies instead of dampening forces from the base.

Sensitivity always at 1.

Base is always at 100.

Some Damper, Natural Friction and Inertia but not too much. I use 12,5,3 respectively most times.
Click to expand...
 
Hi
For my DD+ I use these settings :
SENS Auto
FFB 100
FFS Peak
FOR 80
NDP 20
NFR 3
NIN 5
INT 3
FEI 70
SPR OFF
DPR 10
SHO ON
FullForce 70

In GT7
Force retour max 5
Sensibilité FFB 3
Vibration manette 100
 
www.dg-edge.com

DG EDGE

This guide covers Fanatec wheel settings for the 2026 season and is specifically intended for the Fanatec ClubSport DD+. It focuses on optimizing key parameters such as SEN, FFB, NDP, and FEI to help you achieve better
www.dg-edge.com www.dg-edge.com
 
Digit is using these settings which is opposite of what you are saying.
 
LooseNut25
Digit is using these settings which is opposite of what you are saying
LooseNut25
Digit is using these settings which is opposite of what you are saying.
Click to expand...
Sorry for the last post! His website recommends different settings than his YouTube which could be outdated. I've been using his web settings for a couple of months now and it's a good feeling for myself. I do change in game FFB for car dependent.
Click to expand...
 
On game sensitivity 10 and folks here are saying it is always 1. How can it be the opposite?

LooseNut25
www.dg-edge.com

DG EDGE

This guide covers Fanatec wheel settings for the 2026 season and is specifically intended for the Fanatec ClubSport DD+. It focuses on optimizing key parameters such as SEN, FFB, NDP, and FEI to help you achieve better
www.dg-edge.com www.dg-edge.com
Click to expand...
 
Lightpilgrim
On game sensitivity 10 and folks here are saying it is always 1. How can it be the opposite?
Click to expand...
I lower the FFB sensitivity in-game when I'm playing Group 1 matches. I set it to 1, otherwise I leave it at 3.
 
Just tried it. You use it with f1 v2.5 wheel? Way too strong for me. I will try to reduce FFB.

Jeje6410
Hi
For my DD+ I use these settings :
SENS Auto
FFB 100
FFS Peak
FOR 80
NDP 20
NFR 3
NIN 5
INT 3
FEI 70
SPR OFF
DPR 10
SHO ON
FullForce 70

In GT7
Force retour max 5
Sensibilité FFB 3
Vibration manette 100
Click to expand...
 
@Lightpilgrim
The problem with the V2.5 is that it amplifies everything tenfold. This is due to its diameter. It's a super precise wheel, but not suitable for high-downforce cars like Group 1 and Group 2. The McLaren GT3 V2 is better suited to this type of car because it's larger.
You'll always have a problem with wobble and the feeling of forcing the car with V2.5 on GT7. Everyone talks about it, and no one has solved the problem. You can mitigate it, but not eliminate it. GT7 doesn't have the best force feedback like real racing simulations. It's just a simcade.
I tried Digit's and Luc's settings, just like you, but it's impossible for me. There's too much wobble, and I have to force it to turn. My own settings work better for me. You can try them if you want (see above).
 
Lightpilgrim
Just tried it. You use it with f1 v2.5 wheel? Way too strong for me. I will try to reduce FFB.
Click to expand...
Sometimes I use it with V2.5. But I prefer the McLaren
 
Thank you. I will experiment when I will get back home today from a church service:-)

Your point on v 2.5 wheel is valid, interesting. Was not aware, but now I can see why it is a challenge. I would get myself a Podium endurance wheel, but it is super heavy:-(

Today I tried to adjust their settings. I think I like to feel the detail, just need less force. Do not like super tough wheel.

29D207B3-EABB-4DF4-97E2-4DE16E95B051.webp

Jeje6410
@Lightpilgrim
The problem with the V2.5 is that it amplifies everything tenfold. This is due to its diameter. It's a super precise wheel, but not suitable for high-downforce cars like Group 1 and Group 2. The McLaren GT3 V2 is better suited to this type of car because it's larger.
You'll always have a problem with wobble and the feeling of forcing the car with V2.5 on GT7. Everyone talks about it, and no one has solved the problem. You can mitigate it, but not eliminate it. GT7 doesn't have the best force feedback like real racing simulations. It's just a simcade.
I tried Digit's and Luc's settings, just like you, but it's impossible for me. There's too much wobble, and I have to force it to turn. My own settings work better for me. You can try them if you want (see above).
Click to expand...
 
Lightpilgrim
Thank you. I will experiment when I will get back home today from a church service:-)

Your point on v 2.5 wheel is valid, interesting. Was not aware, but now I can see why it is a challenge. I would get myself a Podium endurance wheel, but it is super heavy:-(

Today I tried to adjust their settings. I think I like to feel the detail, just need less force. Do not like super tough wheel.

View attachment 1527216
Click to expand...
With pleasure @Lightpilgrim 👍👍
 
IMG_2308.webp
And by the way, I wanted to ask you, maybe you would consider yourself, or maybe you have seen somewhere, or maybe you know the topic, just asking, have you seen anyone modifying this podium endurance wheel that Fanatec has to make it a bit lighter, because I think the original one is like almost one kilo, so that's quite insane.

Jeje6410
With pleasure @Lightpilgrim 👍👍
Click to expand...
 
Lightpilgrim
View attachment 1527252 And by the way, I wanted to ask you, maybe you would consider yourself, or maybe you have seen somewhere, or maybe you know the topic, just asking, have you seen anyone modifying this podium endurance wheel that Fanatec has to make it a bit lighter, because I think the original one is like almost one kilo, so that's quite insane.
Click to expand...
No, there's no way to make this steering wheel lighter. I know there are owners of this steering wheel here, and they're very happy with it.
 
I think there is a way. You can get the Podium Stack, but a lighter wheel. I am trying to explore it more


Jeje6410
No, there's no way to make this steering wheel lighter. I know there are owners of this steering wheel here, and they're very happy with it.
Click to expand...
 
I think I’m getting very close to understanding my settings, so let me share how I have it set up right now.

In Gran Turismo 7:
  • Control Steering Sensitivity: 5
  • Force Feedback Torque: 4
  • Force Feedback Sensitivity: 3

Fanatec settings (Digit adjusted to me):
  • SEN: AUTO
  • FFB: 50
  • FF: OFF
  • NDP (Natural Damper): 10
  • NFR (Friction): 15
  • NIN (Inertia): 5
  • INT (Interpolation): 2
  • FEI: 100
  • FOR: 90
  • SPR: OFF
  • DPR: OFF
  • BLI: OFF
  • SHO (Vibration): ON

At the moment, this feels like a really good balance for me — I can feel the car properly, but at the same time I’m not fighting the wheel and I can stay consistent over longer runs.
 
Lightpilgrim
I think I’m getting very close to understanding my settings, so let me share how I have it set up right now.

In Gran Turismo 7:
  • Control Steering Sensitivity: 5
  • Force Feedback Torque: 4
  • Force Feedback Sensitivity: 3

Fanatec settings (Digit adjusted to me):
  • SEN: AUTO
  • FFB: 50
  • FF: OFF
  • NDP (Natural Damper): 10
  • NFR (Friction): 15
  • NIN (Inertia): 5
  • INT (Interpolation): 2
  • FEI: 100
  • FOR: 90
  • SPR: OFF
  • DPR: OFF
  • BLI: OFF
  • SHO (Vibration): ON

At the moment, this feels like a really good balance for me — I can feel the car properly, but at the same time I’m not fighting the wheel and I can stay consistent over longer runs.
Click to expand...
It's a good new !!!! 👍👍
 
Back