Finally Got A Mustang - It starts!

NissanSkylineN1
Firstly, there has only been $2000 paid on is as a deposit, so its not too late yet...
Second of all, a new V6 costs around $28000 not including tax here in Canada. Thats one of the main reasons why he didn't get the V6. The reason why he didn't get the V6 is because even though it is new and fuel efficient, the looks at the front aren't as good and that there are less options available than the V8. Also, it would cost the same as the 4.6L.

You know, what. I am tired of arguing on this matter. Let's lust agree to disagree and accept our different opinions.
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Yes but you get more warranty , and its brand new, no other feeling like owning a brand new car. Nothing like a new car. If you bought a 2008 4.6 or older, and pay WAY less I think it would have been a cool buy. But really, I think I would change it right away for the V6 2011. That fuel economy is so good that its best 300 HP car on earth that has 32 MPG PLUS, also your website stated its the Premium package for 28k. Heck you can even barter with the dealer for lower price, it might work.

Again, even if after taxes it the same money as the 4.6 you got, the V6 has upgraded suspension for much better handling. That V6 has standard rear diff lock just like the 4.6 so you can burn rubber nicely. You get a 6 speed auto or manual, also its much lighter so better handling and feel. oh yeah not to mention its Brand Spanking New with full warranty and all.
With 4.6 the only advantage you get is bit faster take off because of some few extra HP and Torque oh yeah and bit better sound, but that V6 2011 sounds really good also.



Also that V8 vs V6 gig.. only idiots and noobs fall for that.

Sure V8 is better vs that OLD mustang V6 with 4.0 L that only had like 210 HP. But that new V6 that has 305 HP and 32 MPG is a winner.
 


The V6 sounds pretty decent, but those numbers are pretty damn good.

And for reference...



2010 GT
 
So my dad goes in the Garage a few moments ago and comes back and says "The engine light is on" He leaves with the RAV4 and I am left diagnosing the car.

So go to the car and find that its idling pretty badly, and smells like its running a bit rich. I turn it off, open the hood, clean out the air filter, leave the filter box open and restart it. Same story again.

So, I go and take a look inside the air tube and don't see any carbon buildup. I'm clueless. I go back in the car, turn it to the "On" position and let it self diagnose. Nothing is wrong.

I go and turn on the motor...but it doesnt turn on. It cranks, but there is barely any power to the dashboard and eventually the whole power/computer system restarts. I know for a fact that the battery is good... but could it be the alternator?
 
An alternator won't cause a rough idle and a rich smell. The battery is what powers the dash lights. Have you tested the battery (turned headlights on, used a meter etc)? If I was there, I'd run a diagnostic test then run any codes through my computer. Basically what your saying is that it ran badly, and now it won't start at all?


Have you performed any maintenance lately? I'd pull an injector and a spark plug to get a look at them.
 
The battery works perfectly fine, as this happened a few days ago and my father just drove it on and the battery charged back up (this was thursday). Is there a way to diagnose the issue without an OBD and a battery meter?

The latest maintenance was an oil change by Ford, and I checked the dipstick, everything was good.
 
If the battery charged back up while running then the alternator is fine. Put the key in, turn EVERYTHING on that is electronic. Check your lights and see if they are dimmer than usual. Do the same with everything off as well. You say it cranks...is it normal or is it a hard turnover?

Any hand held $30 electrical meter should tell you your batteries voltage. Was it dead before your father started it? Did he have to charge it?

I'm still hung up on the poor idle quality. Me thinks something is forcing the computer to allow the engine to get more gas than required and as a result, flooding it out to the point it won't run.
 
Went in, turned on all lights, they were normal. Tried turning on the motor, didn't work, all the electricals restarted and was low on power after that... probably low voltage.

As for turnovers, I don't know the difference between a normal and hard turnover...

And by an electrical meter you mean a multimeter/voltmeter, yes I have one at home. When he did it on Thursday, it took him a while to get it on.

I don't want to crank it too much so that the engine gets flooded with gasoline....

Could it be that the spark plugs arent getting enough electricity?
 
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Voltmeter is perfect. Touch the terminals with it. Anything under 12.6 volts, it's not fully charged. Do the same again with electronics on. Should drop but not a lot. Crank it over. Should drop to around 9ish volts if it was fully charged. If you could get the car running, and use the meter again and it raises to about 14 volts, your alternator is good. A hard turnover is when it sounds like its cranking slow or kind of chugging for lack of a better word. Sounds like a battery issue if its low on power after. As for it not running well, I'm still stumped. Dirty plugs possibly? Computer giving it too much gas?
 
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The battery is giving us 12 volts when there is no key in the car.

We looked at the battery, the red terminal had some crusty blue stuff on it, and the eyehole thing in the battery was showing us green.

The car is having a hard turnover, and it stopped this time and there was a loud "tak-tak-tak" sound.

When locking the car, the horn doesnt sound enthusiastic anymore.

My guess is now also a low battery too.
 
Swap the battery with the Rav while at it clean post and terminals real good. If battery doesn't fit just right don't try closing hood.Try battery out of Stang in Rav.
 
opelgt1969
Swap the battery with the Rav while at it clean post and terminals real good. If battery doesn't fit just right don't try closing hood.Try battery out of Stang in Rav.
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Do this. If the battery is the problem, they should be guaranteed so check with the company and see if you can get a replacement.
 
NissanSkylineN1
The battery is giving us 12 volts when there is no key in the car.

We looked at the battery, the red terminal had some crusty blue stuff on it, and the eyehole thing in the battery was showing us green.

The car is having a hard turnover, and it stopped this time and there was a loud "tak-tak-tak" sound.

When locking the car, the horn doesnt sound enthusiastic anymore.

My guess is now also a low battery too.
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The ticking noise is from the solenoid looking for power. The battery some how got drained. Its clearly not getting enough to the starter too turn it over fast enough. As suggested, swap the batteries to see if it makes a difference.
 
We jumpstarted it and it worked! Charged the battery up and restarted again, still works. Then we went for a quick ride on the highway, floored it a few times and it sounded good. Battery still has some corrosion on the red terminal.... wondering if I should clean it off.

Last night the wrench logo was lit up - "Electric Throttle Management", so we cleaned the air filter... still has a bit of a rough idle. I think the corrosion on the battery was draining the power because apparently it died at a red light a week ago. Dad says that the Ford people probably screwed something up. We're gonna take it to the dealer tommorow.

Thanks for the help so far guys!
 
NissanSkylineN1
We jumpstarted it and it worked! Charged the battery up and restarted again, still works. Then we went for a quick ride on the highway, floored it a few times and it sounded good. Battery still has some corrosion on the red terminal.... wondering if I should clean it off.

Last night the wrench logo was lit up - "Electric Throttle Management", so we cleaned the air filter... still has a bit of a rough idle. I think the corrosion on the battery was draining the power because apparently it died at a red light a week ago. Dad says that the Ford people probably screwed something up. We're gonna take it to the dealer tommorow.

Thanks for the help so far guys!
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Clean battery post and terminal off with wire brush. Get car started and see if local "Car parts store" does electrical checks for free. Here in the USA they do. Dealer will cost you.
 
Try not to breath in the dust either, thats harzardous.
 
NissanSkylineN1
We jumpstarted it and it worked! Charged the battery up and restarted again, still works. Then we went for a quick ride on the highway, floored it a few times and it sounded good. Battery still has some corrosion on the red terminal.... wondering if I should clean it off.

Last night the wrench logo was lit up - "Electric Throttle Management", so we cleaned the air filter... still has a bit of a rough idle. I think the corrosion on the battery was draining the power because apparently it died at a red light a week ago. Dad says that the Ford people probably screwed something up. We're gonna take it to the dealer tommorow.

Thanks for the help so far guys!
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Corrosion won't usually drain a battery. The battery had to have been bad.
 
Most auto parts chains in the US will check your battery for free. They'll make sure it's charging and then load test it. Nasty terminals can interfear with the connection, and if the battery hook ups were loose.... It's happened to me before.
 
True
 
Watch the dealership, if you think they screwed something up last time i would be very cautious. Look what they did to this poor guys car:

Dealership mechanics can be the worst offenders because they have a whole company to cover up their mistakes.
 
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I'd bet there is a bad cell in that battery.
 
So we got an Optima 34/78 battery today. Turns out that the Mustang's terminals are reversed and the cables are screwed down so it doesn't fit.
 
UPDATE: We installed the Optima Redtop Size 35. Fits right in and fired right up! Thanks guys!
 
Welcome to the world of the Mustangs!
 
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