Fried Hdmi

  • Thread starter Ibonibo
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Ibonibo

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I think on my denon AVR one of the 4 hdmi ports has been fried :(

I had a power surge yesterday. First i didn't notice anything because i didn't use that port than.
At midnight i wanted to play a little Battlefield on PC which is connected to the HDMi port 1. No picture. Sound yes (via optical). Bizarre....

Switched the ports with the ps3. Now the ps3 didn't work and the Pc displayed.

Damn.....

I still have warrenty on it. But need to resent it to germany. It will take a month to get it back (beeing optimistic here). And the problem is all my equipement runs over the AVR....


For the moment i unplugged the power in hope some magic will happen and it will rework when i come home today... :scared:

ahhh it is not cool that hdmi ports are that sensible.

Is there a remedy .
I google a bit but seems the only solution is a repacement board :(
I had the same problem at the beginning on my bravia and there i was lucky that i had a Sony technician coming to my house and replacing the board at my place (20 min). That won't be the case here
 
Yes i thought about that.

Maybe sent it in when i'm in holiday or wait till an other port fries.. :S

I don't really want to sent it in because i really need it and you never know with these postage dudes, and one port is not the world, and always can get one of the switches.
But i also have warrenty and a free replacement of the board and i want a non faulty unit.


I guess i wait till my next holidays where i go to leave... At least like that i can enjoy GT5 in 7.1 till then and i'm not beeing annoyed by it missing....

But i needs to get repaired. I hate faulty units with work-arounds.
 
I personally use this HDMI switcher and it is amazing for being so cheap. You can easily switch to a different HDMI device with an handy remote and as far as I can tell the quality is the same.
 
I always put any TV, PC, Console, etc through a surge-protected extension, if you've not got earlier protection in your wiring.
 
I always put any TV, PC, Console, etc through a surge-protected extension, if you've not got earlier protection in your wiring.

Amen to that bit of advice. Up to £2000 worth of kit and no protection!! Along with an HDMI switcher I suggest surge protector.
 
tw-ba2.jpg


You mean those. I have them. 3 of them even for all my pieces of electronics (the one from the pic. Brennstuhl, made in germany).

Still happend. How? good question. They guarentee stuff up to half a million € if it comes from their devices.
I suspect the pc hanging on a different power outlead than the amp, this may have caused it. (at least that is what i got from googling)

As i still have a year of warrenty, i will wait a bit till i have the time to send it in.

It just a pain in the ***.:indiff::crazy:
Especially in my country to send a big package like that is a lot of BS

I will get a switcher in the mean time
 
tw-ba2.jpg


You mean those. I have them. 3 of them even for all my pieces of electronics (the one from the pic. Brennstuhl, made in germany).

Still happend. How? good question. They guarentee stuff up to half a million € if it comes from their devices.
I suspect the pc hanging on a different power outlead than the amp, this may have caused it. (at least that is what i got from googling)

As i still have a year of warrenty, i will wait a bit till i have the time to send it in.

It just a pain in the ***.:indiff::crazy:
Especially in my country to send a big package like that is a lot of BS

I will get a switcher in the mean time

Wow ok. Sorry to hear it. Looks like you took all the precautions too. Don't you have a local place you can take it into? I would be like you tho if local stores were not an option, sending off an appliance is annoying.

I will give you one word of warning though with HDMI switchers. People in AVForums have blown HDMI ports by switching live ports over. Granted most of the problems were on Sony Bravia's. You may want to look into this a bit more before going down the switcher route, the last thing you want is another blown port.
 
As i'm living in a little country i don't have a direct denon repair service here. I can send it to Denon France or to my retrailer in Germany who is a trusted Denon dealer.
I will opt for the latter on (German quality ;)).

Thanks for the advice on the switchers. I will look into it.
Hdmi are so fragile it's frightening.

I only really need 3 out of the 4 ports, even if i have 5 hdmi devices (2x xbox, 2x ps3 :so my fatties will take a winter sleep if i don't figure out the switch problems)
 
Still happend. How? good question. They guarentee stuff up to half a million € if it comes from their devices.
I suspect the pc hanging on a different power outlead than the amp, this may have caused it. (at least that is what i got from googling)

I believe the protection gets worn out after each power surge.
 
the safty light is still on, and the fuse is also working, but i will check the manual if i can find it
 
I believe the protection gets worn out after each power surge.

If so then the one that's behind my TV is a 20 year old GE surge protector and it's is still working. I already checked the instructions on the back of it and it seems fine. Is that a true fact?
 
http://www.powersquid.com/surge_protection_introduction.html
The MOV absorbs the excess electrical energy - here is where the joule comes in - and dissipates it as heat energy. MOVs are rated by the number of joules that they can absorb, which is a finite number. Ultimately, after the MOVs absorb all of the joules that they can, the surge protector will activate its Tripwire Circuit and sacrifice itself for the betterment of the connected equipment.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Anatomy-of-Surge-Suppressors/483/2
MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor): This is the heart of a surge suppressor, in charge of holding voltage peaks coming from the power grid. All surge suppressors must have at least one MOV, connected between hot and neutral wires from the power grid. Good models must have at least three MOV’s, one between hot and neutral, one between hot and ground and one between neutral and ground. MOV’s don’t last forever. After some years they stop working correctly (the exact life expectancy depends on some factor like, for example, how many times the MOV entered in action – a typical value is 1,000 surge protections), and some surge suppressors have a LED to indicate that their MOV’s aren’t working right. On surge protectors without this LED you will think that your surge protector is still protecting your equipment when their MOV’s have gone bad, since there still voltage on the AC outlets, while in fact your surge suppressor is working just like a power strip – i.e., cord extension. Every MOV is rated with a maximum absorption energy level, given in a unit called joule. If the amount of energy delivered to the MOV’s is higher than their ratings, they will burn – protecting your equipment, at least. It is important to know that MOV’s only holds overvoltage peaks. If a voltage or current higher than the maximum the MOV can handle is applied during a sustained period of time, the MOV will not only burn, but may pass overvoltage to your equipment, creating a risk of fire. Physically MOV’s are disc-shaped components with two terminals, usually blue in color.

Not all suppressors are MOV-based, but most are. I remember reading a case somewhere where the protection light was still on even though the surge protector was basically done. But my memory could be deceiving me.
 
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