FWD tunes

  • Thread starter Thread starter corviwulf
  • 10 comments
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Without knowing PP or tyres, this is where I'd start.

  • Match Spring Rates to weight distribution, but add 10% to front spring.
  • Ride height, set front 5mm higher than rear.
  • Dampers, set front EXT high and COMP low. Invert rear damper, EXT low, COMP high.
  • ARBs, set rear to twice strength of front, 2/5, 3/6.
  • Camber, default 2.0 / 1.0.
  • Toe, default -0.10 / 0.00.
  • LSD, default 5/10/5

Adjust the car as you find it drives...

{Cy}
 
thanks just looking to play around on my custom tracks with some of the more....affordable sport compacts and hot hatchs
 
Without knowing PP or tyres, this is where I'd start.


[*]Match Spring Rates to weight distribution, but add 10% to front spring.
[*]Ride height, set front 5mm higher than rear.
[*]Dampers, set front EXT high and COMP low. Invert rear damper, EXT low, COMP high.
[*]ARBs, set rear to twice strength of front, 2/5, 3/6.
[*]Camber, default 2.0 / 1.0.
[*]Toe, default -0.10 / 0.00.
[*]LSD, default 5/10/5


Adjust the car as you find it drives...

{Cy}

Everything looks decent here other then LSD. It's different for every car. But the deceleration sensitivity is right. Make sure you keep it as close to 5 as possible without having the car be too unstable. Not honestly sure about the Dampers and ARB's, I just set them according to course. 90% off the cars I tune are FWD. you may also want to consider using more rear brake balance. Slightly.
 
Everything looks decent here other then LSD. It's different for every car. But the deceleration sensitivity is right. Make sure you keep it as close to 5 as possible without having the car be too unstable. Not honestly sure about the Dampers and ARB's, I just set them according to course. 90% off the cars I tune are FWD. you may also want to consider using more rear brake balance. Slightly.

Actually for FWD, accel values don't really vary outside 10-20, at least in my experience. They'll be different by 1 or 2, yes, but that's sound advice Cy is giving there.
 
Actually for FWD, accel values don't really vary outside 10-20, at least in my experience. They'll be different by 1 or 2, yes, but that's sound advice Cy is giving there.

Oh I know. That's what I'm saying. Mine are usually a bit higher. Never above 19 for me unless its a weird FF :sly: I'm not saying it's wrong, I'm just saying that its never going to be the same for each car:) all the other advice was pretty much the same as what I do.
 
Actually for FWD, accel values don't really vary outside 10-20, at least in my experience. They'll be different by 1 or 2, yes, but that's sound advice Cy is giving there.

Oh I know. That's what I'm saying. Mine are usually a bit higher. Never above 19 for me unless its a weird FF :sly: I'm not saying it's wrong, I'm just saying that its never going to be the same for each car:) all the other advice was pretty much the same as what I do.

Everything is subject to having driven the car and knowing the PP/tyres combo. Not many cars will end up looking like that, there will undoubtedly be multiple changes required to suit 👍

{Cy}
 
I'm not sure about the ARBs. I'd set them up according the circuit as Shoe said. But, because of my driving style, i'would never set the rear to twice the front, it' would imply that i cant break while turning, thing i do quite often. But yeah, softer the front is the thing to do.
And the LSD, i would set the accel a bit higher, always cheking the inside wheel is getting red too soon. Just to avoid lost of power, and weird power transfering.
 
I'm not sure about the ARBs. I'd set them up according the circuit as Shoe said. But, because of my driving style, i'would never set the rear to twice the front, it' would imply that i cant break while turning, thing i do quite often. But yeah, softer the front is the thing to do.
And the LSD, i would set the accel a bit higher, always cheking the inside wheel is getting red too soon. Just to avoid lost of power, and weird power transfering.

I believe that stiffer front will help with understeer, although its against reality and not true at all in real life. I like I set my dampers up in consideration with my spring rate. Say my spring rate is at 7 in the front and 4 in the back, I'll set my extension at 6 in the front and 3 in the back and compression 5 in the front and 2 in the back. Although this doesn't work for everyone, if you generally stick to that rule, you should be okay if it works for you. But what do I know right? Just advice, test tune and do whatever you want:) 👍 :lol:
 
For FWD, you want the get rid of the heavy weight in the front.

Make springs in the front stiff but not too stiff and back springs soft.

You wheel also need to increase camber and positive toe. Both work together to get these cars to turn. They also help in distribution too. And with this also, you can put more torque into FWD around corners.

Sway bars need to be increase between 3 and 5 range to keep weight from being unstable. As well as keep dampers high but no too high.

At the end of the day, it's your preference at how the ride quality should be.

You do this right and you can get the FORD taurus running around the NURB!!!
 
A quick tip for tuning FF suspensions. The most important detail to take into account first is the wheelbase. Since the game offers no direct way to see the exact measurement, you'll have to use your own judgement.

Anti-Roll bars: even vs. uneven
Even ARBs work as intended. But if you want your car to handle tighter and have improved turn-in into corners, you would set either the front or rear bar one or more points higher. Which is higher depends on wheelbase.

Short wheelbase FFs would employ a stronger front ARB than rear. eg: Honda civic, Peugeot 206

Longer wheelbase FFs would employ a stronger rear ARB that front. eg: Honda Integra, Ford Focus

NOTE:
I'm not saying that this is the best tuning trick in the book, or that it will always work on every car. But, when tuning, it's good to always try even unorthodox things as you never know what will work better than what.
 
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