G25 stopped working during race :(

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Israel
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I was playing with few mates online when it suddenly stopped working. I just couldn't turn the car to the right anymore. Once this issue started the led on the shifter was blinking too. Tried plugging it in and out, same for the power supply. Even tried it on my PC and it does the exact same thing !! I didn't do anything wrong nor misuse it in any way...it just happened! :guilty::guilty:

I noticed that it also no longer does it's calibration procedure properly. It just twitches to the right / left 2-3 times and that's it. I'm disappointed with this, I don't even think it's still under warranty. How many years do Logitech give on this wheel?
 
One year is the standard warranty in most places.

Even if it's no longer under warranty though there may be something you can do, I would advise you to contact Logitech directly and ask for help, also check out their forum there's lots of fixes for various issues there.
 
I'm gonna call them tomorrow and see what happens but until then, if anyone had this issue and know how to sort it out I'd certainly want to know as trying Google didn't yield much results.
 
Oddly enough, the same thing happened to me when I started using it with my PS3. It makes me even more suspicious to hear that someone else's GT25 died when they started using it to play GT5 ...
 
When mine died by the way there was a whiff of electrical burning from within the unit - I can't imagine that there's a flaw with the PS3's USB ports tho', it's a fairly universal standard so they wouldn't be sending an overly high voltage through it.
 
It worked pretty good in GT5P :( I found a logitech webpage of someone saying it's a known problem but you know how it goes with these companies, if you're out of warranty, that's it, you're screwed. :\
 
When mine died by the way there was a whiff of electrical burning from within the unit - I can't imagine that there's a flaw with the PS3's USB ports tho', it's a fairly universal standard so they wouldn't be sending an overly high voltage through it.

no burning smell here but I do recall that at the very beginning of using this wheel I had this issue with the blinking led...I can't remember what or how I sorted it out even tho I do not recall the weird calibration problem.

Btw, already posted on Logitech support forum, hopefully I get some help from there too. 👍
 
When mine died by the way there was a whiff of electrical burning from within the unit - I can't imagine that there's a flaw with the PS3's USB ports tho', it's a fairly universal standard so they wouldn't be sending an overly high voltage through it.

nah, I believe most of the power comes from the power supply anyway.

//sorry for double posting.
 
The power for the force-feedback comes from the seperate power supply aye. The USB just powers the buttons/gear changers. However, if the USB feeds too much voltage into the single control board that sits inside the unit, unexpected failures can happen.

For some background, I'm a SCADA engineer for power systems - rather higher voltage than domestic but the principles are the same in some areas :lol:
 
I dunno why, but I suspect that it's the power supply unit. Maybe I could try another power adapter, set it to same AC/DC values needed and check.

btw, I just sniffed it again (lol) it has this... I dunno electronic smell to it, but not like burnt smell. I think it always had this smell.
 
Sounds like a power supply issue, either the power brick itself or something inside interrupting the supply, get a multimeter/volt meter and check the voltage at the end of the plug that you normally plug into the G25, that'll tell you if it is the transformer (brick) or the wheel itself.
 
That would be my advice too. I'm looking into getting a replacement power supply myself.

Sadly, I couldn't resist taking the unit apart to have a fiddle about ... I don't think that I broke it any more than it already was :O.
 
Jay
Sounds like a power supply issue, either the power brick itself or something inside interrupting the supply, get a multimeter/volt meter and check the voltage at the end of the plug that you normally plug into the G25, that'll tell you if it is the transformer (brick) or the wheel itself.

Well do! My dad actually has few of these measure tools so I'll bother him with it tomorrow and report back, thanks.

btw, just looked at the box and it says 2 years of warranty. Let's hope that ain't over!
 
I was playing with few mates online when it suddenly stopped working. I just couldn't turn the car to the right anymore. Once this issue started the led on the shifter was blinking too. Tried plugging it in and out, same for the power supply. Even tried it on my PC and it does the exact same thing !! I didn't do anything wrong nor misuse it in any way...it just happened! :guilty::guilty:

I noticed that it also no longer does it's calibration procedure properly. It just twitches to the right / left 2-3 times and that's it. I'm disappointed with this, I don't even think it's still under warranty. How many years do Logitech give on this wheel?

Same damn thing happend to me!
 
I live in Australia and my Dad has sent me a G25 from America, i am pretty sure that America uses a lower voltage than Australia but he said that if i use one of those adapter things it should be fine.
I do the same thing with my laptop, but i am wondering if it will effect my G25?
 
Jay
Sounds like a power supply issue, either the power brick itself or something inside interrupting the supply, get a multimeter/volt meter and check the voltage at the end of the plug that you normally plug into the G25, that'll tell you if it is the transformer (brick) or the wheel itself.

Update: my dad checked the power adapter and it seems to be good. It's something inside the wheel. :nervous:
 
Update: my dad checked the power adapter and it seems to be good. It's something inside the wheel. :nervous:

Ah thats too bad, you should check up on that warrenty.

If it's not valid then open it up and try and trace it, symptoms still make it seem like a power issue, might be a dry solder joint or something.
 
Jay
Ah thats too bad, you should check up on that warrenty.

If it's not valid then open it up and try and trace it, symptoms still make it seem like a power issue, might be a dry solder joint or something.

Yeah, I didn't manage to catch up with Logitech today so I'll try tomorrow and if not will take it apart. Just wondering tho, to take it apart, you must remove the steering wheel (itself) as well ?
 
It massively helps to remove the wheel itself, aye. I tried to take a look without doing that at first and ended up having to use far too much force to get an opening big enough to get my hands in. With the wheel off it is simplicity itself.

Just have a care when taking the wheel off because there are some very thin wires for the on wheel buttons that connect to a small circuit board inside the spindle. Another pair of hands to help until you can unplug the connector will be of great help.
 
It massively helps to remove the wheel itself, aye. I tried to take a look without doing that at first and ended up having to use far too much force to get an opening big enough to get my hands in. With the wheel off it is simplicity itself.

Just have a care when taking the wheel off because there are some very thin wires for the on wheel buttons that connect to a small circuit board inside the spindle. Another pair of hands to help until you can unplug the connector will be of great help.

I've got it covered. 👍

I'll update the thread if anything new pops up...
 
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