G27 Questions

  • Thread starter AAO_Maxxis
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AAO_Maxxis

AAO_Maxxis

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United States
AAO_Maxxis
Im going to be buying a g27 here in about a month, And ive heard thats the best bang for your buck, So with that being said does any expert g27 drifter have any suggestions on what mods i should buy for it? or just keep it stock. Also anyone with a g27 please try one of my tunes that i uploaded because im pretty sure thats how you tune for wheel drifting. please give me feedback on that too. Thank you guys
 

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Whoever told you that's "how you tune for wheel drifting" needs a swift slap. :lol:

Your S13 has extremely high dampers on very soft springs (almost stock) which I can't imagine is great.

Also a lot of your toes are backwards, you want neg. toe (toe out) on the front, and a little toe in (positive) on the rear.

Your LSD on one of your cars I noticed had a high pre-load (initial torque), which will make the car prone to understeer, so that's probably something you want to keep under 20, rather than 40+... :)

Edit: Tunes should relate to how one would tune in real life, so it doesn't matter if you're on wheel or controller, it's a persons style that determines how they want their car setup.

Of course it's important to understand each setting so you can achieve this.

There's a tuning guide in this forum, go study. :D
 
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its got high dampers because it has low torque . yeah i disagree on the springs to but it works, i thought inward toe makes your car straighten out like your front dampers, i always put them lower in the front (dampers) so i thought a little inward would make the front transfer before the rear
 
Dampers are basically how quick your springs react, so softer dampers on the front will make the rear come round before the front, making the car pretty oversteer-biased. You usually want higher dampers on the front, to follow suit with the spring rates.

You say you do it because low torque, just make your spring rates higher (f8/r6), no need to have high dampers it will only make the car unstable especially on those rates.

You should probably bring down that initial torque on 5-10 as well, as you say you have low torque, so you need the diff to require only a small amount before it locks, 60 on initial is basically the most understeer-biased IT setup you can have on a diff.
 
I use controller, but that's neither here nor there. I'm explaining how to tune in real life as that can be implemented into the game, and this is as close to a simulator as we can get on console at this present time; I tune to that rather than to what controlling device I use.

Hope you can find some use out of what I told you, man. :)

Edit: Oh and don't forget the tuning guide made by JDMT, top of this forum page.
 
Should take in consideration that the G27 is no good for PS4 but according to some people you can get some sort of adapter for it. So if you think you can save for a ThrustMaster and avoid the hustle of finding and buying a legit adapter the you are better of with the ThrustMaster.

I own a G25 and is stock.

About your tune: dampers are pretty much backwards, softer dampers (in relation to rear) will make the front grip and under-steer, essentially you do want the front wheels to grip, think of it like this....while you are drifting the front wheels will constantly gain grip very fast, straightening out your car through out the drift.

Your LSD will have the same effect, the initial torque should stay below 10 to replicate a welded diff, most wheel drifter go with 5 60 60.

EDIT: I'm pretty sure we've tandem together, i don't mind giving you some tips next time we see each other in some random lobby. cheers
And streeto was right when he said that tunes differ from driver to driver because of their style.
 
Ok well if you want oversteer, a 1.5-way diff will help to get the back end out off throttle especially with a high accel setting and low pre-load. Something like I-5 A-60 D-30 should be good.

Springs wise, if you want oversteer, either keep it even rates (eg. f-12 r-12) or slightly harder on the rear by a KG or 2. I just wouldn't advise a LOT of rear spring bias just because it will make your car much more prone to spinning out after a certain amount is applied.

To keep the dampers loose have the ext. always 3-4 higher than the comp. dampers. e.g;

3 3
7 7

etc. etc.

I think you get the idea...
 
On compression yeah, the rest of your setup is already oversteer biased, so no need to go extreme on dampers.

Dampers can be quite troublesome if you don't get them right.

Fiddle with the settings but make sure to follow what I've told you, and what you now know.

I tune to the exact opposite of this though, understeer biased settings all around mostly like typical RL setups, so the car is stable when I need it to be, and it aids to my style of drifting.

We're all different though, which is a good thing.

Of course, the tuning guide is there if you forget anything.
 
MCR-Streets 👍 :)

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Basically, you want negative (toe-out) on the front to increase turn-in and encourage your car to initiate (similar effect to increasing accel setting on your diff), and toe-in on the rear to increase lateral grip (referred to as "drift grip" by some...) but going extreme on either front or rear will have bad repercussions like snappy turn-in, or too much rear grip causing straightens etc.

I hope that kinda made sense...

Here's the quote from the tuning guide;

· Toe- Toe is the angle of your wheels facing inward or outward. Toe IN is positive angle where how much the wheels are pointing inwards, whilst Toe OUT is how much the wheel is pointing outwards. Generally speaking, the more inwards your wheels are facing the more stable your vehicle will be. Giving the front end a toe in angle will increase understeer, while a toe out will improve steering response. Giving the rear wheels a toe-in angle will improve stability both when moving forward and when turning, but will also increase understeer.
 
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