Getting Passed on Straightaways easily on CSRE

  • Thread starter Thread starter BODHI85
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When I used a pad I mapped the clutch right next to the gears and just pressed them simultaneously. Exactly the same as ACL. Hey perhaps I invented ACL lol.
You are manually pressing the clutch button though ;).

I would certainly recommend using "normal" as opposed to "simulation" mode.....the steering is kinda fubared in that mode as it makes it difficult to save the car if it begins to lose grip in the rear. I wouldn't use 270 steering.....it's too sensitive for most cars.....especially the race stuff like the high end R models. 540 is what I like to use......it's still a fast ratio but the car won't make drastic changes in direction with minimal wheel movement like 270.

In the end it comes down to user preference though.
270 degrees steering is probably what the game is designed for. 900 degrees sujpport seems still an afterthought going by other users comments.

I have the CSR set to 180º mode when playing to Forza and I use normal steering in-game, it works fine, IMO it's the most similar handling compared to a G25 and that's what I'm used to.

This joypad steering buffer, in my opinion, is similar to the GT5 active steering, I've given a try to that joypad (I suck badly with that Xbox gamepad) but I see there's more grip when exiting a curve, with the steering wheel I've to fight constantly with the oversteering and the throttle.

The steering wheel is not as competitive as a joypad in Forza, top ten in the leaderboards are full of joypad users, ACL is as fast as button clutch with a joypad, there's no advantage when using the ACL new feature, the only advantage I see in a steering wheel versus a joypad is the steering precision, pedal input should be an advantage too but that joypad steering buffer simply overcomes any skill with pedal inputs.

Try using 270 degrees. I heard for the Forza 4 demo, the person who was number 1 used a Microsoft wheel which is only 270 degrees. I think from what I hear it has steering help on that mode similar to controller as without it, it becomes undrivable. Forza 3 they had to use quite strong active steering to probably cover up the steering issues they have and it probably shows in FM4 now clearly when you disable it in 900 degree mode, things become sensitive.

Try the star in reasonably priced car rivals event. You should be able to be competitive in that with a wheel. ACL I see as an advantage especially due to my experience on a pad that you can lose fractions of a second depending on how well you shift. Race situations it will be even more of an advantage due to no worry about transmission damage and perfect shifting each time.
 
Try using 270 degrees. I heard for the Forza 4 demo, the person who was number 1 used a Microsoft wheel which is only 270 degrees. I think from what I hear it has steering help on that mode similar to controller as without it, it becomes undrivable.
Thanks for the info 👍 , I'll try those 270º.

ACL does not give you a perfect shift every time, I can see that in the telemetry, the faster you press the paddle and release it the faster the shift will be but if you're too fast you won't shift, it's exactly like a button clutch but more comfortable.
Some games use an anticheat method, there's coded a minimal time for shifting counted in miliseconds, if you shift faster than that minimal required time you won't be able to shift.
 
The problem persists. :(

It seems to happen randomly. When I unplug or restart. It will go back to full throttle, but then mid game the cap will decrease. Sometimes just a bit off the top, other times much more.

Guess I'll have to write Fanatec. Very frustrating.
 
Thanks for the info 👍 , I'll try those 270º.

ACL does not give you a perfect shift every time, I can see that in the telemetry, the faster you press the paddle and release it the faster the shift will be but if you're too fast you won't shift, it's exactly like a button clutch but more comfortable.
Some games use an anticheat method, there's coded a minimal time for shifting counted in miliseconds, if you shift faster than that minimal required time you won't be able to shift.
No problem. If it doesn't help, there are quite a few members here who were part of the skills team so they might be able to help you be more competitive in that game.

Interesting thing about the shifting, I didn't know about that.

The problem persists. :(

It seems to happen randomly. When I unplug or restart. It will go back to full throttle, but then mid game the cap will decrease. Sometimes just a bit off the top, other times much more.

Guess I'll have to write Fanatec. Very frustrating.

Good luck in getting it resolved.
 
When playing Forza 4, try turning the SEn setting on your wheel to "OFF". This will give you the smoothest steering you can get. A friend of mine suggested this to me and I resisted for a long time. I paid for a wheel with 900 degrees of steering and I was going to use it. Then I finally tried with the sensitivity set to OFF and now I am convinced. Just try it, if you don't like it use whatever sensitivity you want. But for me and many others it gives you the smoothest steering you can get in Forza 4. Also have the difficulty set to Normal ingame as this will make it much easier to recover if the rear end breaks loose.
 
No problem. If it doesn't help, there are quite a few members here who were part of the skills team so they might be able to help you be more competitive in that game.
Those 270º didn't help but I've noticed a slight improvement with the SEn set to off as Troysloth suggested, thanks to both of you. 👍

I've met with some skills team members in FM4, they're really nice guys and already offered me some good help :bowdown:, almost all of them (if not all) use the Xbox joypad and here's the problem, we have different controllers, I see car settings are quite different when using a joypad or a steering wheel in FM4, but at least I can figure out some things or have a guideline with their setups.
Times are dropping slowly but I don't see myself getting a solid top 25 even with a lot of effort.

BODHI85, don't doubt to write Fanatec support, I've heard some dramas from some people when they have contacted with Fanatec support but I had a good support service when my elite pedals were faulty right out from the box, everything went smooth as silk, you'll need to be a bit patient though, sometimes they take some time for replying.
 
I too have had this problem of the gas not being fully pressed. Still not found a solution but in a post on another forum I was advised that a site called basher boards had a fix to the problem. So far it's case of replacing a board in the pedals. Am gonna give it a week and hope I find another solution after that I will have to give in.
 
i had the problem too, and the fix was to keep unscrewing tightening adjusting, and it worked for a few weeks after every adjustment....then a about 8 months down the line after regular adjusting it just didnt respond anymore, fanatec sent me a new sensor and ive never had to adjust again....so i it was the sensor that was not perfectly working.
 
Surprised this thread is still active.

I thought I would just give a quick update to my problem. I feel kind of dumb but it was actually a quick fix. It had nothing to do with the set screws on the bottom or sensor itself itself.

The screws for the sensor on the side of the pedals was loose. I just tightened it up and it works perfectly now LOL.
 
Had a similar problem. The accelerator in-game would kind of wiggle and then slowly decelerate until mashing on the pedal barely did anything. I tried unplugging and replugging and rebooting the wheel and finally got sick of it, so I took the whole assembly apart. It appears that the hot glue that held the acclerator servo onto the baseplate (where the gas pedal connected) had released so the servo wasn't set right. Also, the ground wire for the PS/2 wiring was sort of being pinched by the spring from the accelerator. I re-seated the hot glue blob and wiggled everything back in place. Working fine now!
 
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