Good car to tune for a beginner?

  • Thread starter Dagger311
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I quite like the R34 Tc, that thing is really quick if driven right, you need to concentrate though as it can be a pig if pushed the wrong way.
Muscle cars have most of the weight over the front end of the car, this makes them not want to turn. Also the suspension is soft and this causes body roll which throws the mass of the car in the opposite direction to the turn. Basically, too big, too heavy, too wobbly and the centre of gravity is in the wrong place
Ah, okay. And I like the R-34 too, I'm just not very good with it in it's stock mode.
 
yeah it takes a bit of getting used to, you have to be really sharp with your racing line and know when to accelerate out of the corners to make the most of all that grip.
 
If your looking for an American muscle car to tune, but are inexperienced and dont want to get in over your head, I have the perfect car for you to play with.

The Chevy Camaro Z-28 race car '69.

I'll tell you why.
its powerful, but not a nuclear weapon. And due to the fact its a race car, certain things to stabilize the framework come stock. If you drive this car stock, its already not that bad. Add some power parts, nice exhaust, sports computer, ect. Follow Motor City's guide as mentioned above, and go 1 change at a time, testing and retesting as you go.
the major benefit to this car, is that its capable of winning anything it qualifys for. It looks awesome, and you feel like a bad ass driving it. Why is that important? Because when your learning, when you see AND feel the rewards as you go, it keeps you at it, and keeps your attitude positive.
Keep your head up, master that car, and then you will feel better when you dive into other American beasts later.
good luck man.
 
If your looking for an American muscle car to tune, but are inexperienced and dont want to get in over your head, I have the perfect car for you to play with.

The Chevy Camaro Z-28 race car '69.

I'll tell you why.
its powerful, but not a nuclear weapon. And due to the fact its a race car, certain things to stabilize the framework come stock. If you drive this car stock, its already not that bad. Add some power parts, nice exhaust, sports computer, ect. Follow Motor City's guide as mentioned above, and go 1 change at a time, testing and retesting as you go.
the major benefit to this car, is that its capable of winning anything it qualifys for. It looks awesome, and you feel like a bad ass driving it. Why is that important? Because when your learning, when you see AND feel the rewards as you go, it keeps you at it, and keeps your attitude positive.
Keep your head up, master that car, and then you will feel better when you dive into other American beasts later.
good luck man.
Thanks man, this will be my first one after I come off of jdm.
 
400pp range on comfort soft. Front engine, rear drive layout.
@Dagger311 : I agree with him. The "problems" these cars got are easier to see. I'd say 450PP, but you get the idea.

4WD (uneasy seing problems) or RR cars (uneasy solving problem) are not adviced to start with :)

FF will be next stage, then MR.

You should try 1-2 Fr, then 1 FF (to spot differences), then 1-2 MR then start 1 4WD, do all this again then start 4WD/RR more serioulsy. And redo first tunes aswell.

Anyway, in 5-6 cars or so, you will get your habits so it'be easier for you aswell !

Best "classic" read to start is scaff tuning guides in the GT5 section imho. It's very well written, you learn a lot of very very usefull things there. Was written for GT4 but 98% of it still work in GT6.

Why is that important? Because when your learning, when you see AND feel the rewards as you go, it keeps you at it, and keeps your attitude positive.
I agree with this aswell.
I'm about to drop the R8 Gordini because I don't find "the second" magical setting that will make the car a star. I keep loosing with the car. Waiting for the camber bug to be fixed first (advice for now, there's a bug still present in 1.4 : tune camber for now at 0/0 until it's solved) because the car got an unsettable 0.0/2.0.

Ah, okay. And I like the R-34 too, I'm just not very good with it in it's stock mode.
My advice is not to tune this because the car have no major problems - worked on it yesterday, I will surely post one tonigth - so you'll get reward and "tuning pride" mainly with her LSD settings...
 
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@BlueShift, I'm going to start on the Miata today if I find time. And I would like to mess with the suspension on the R-34, loosen the car up a bit. I take the inside on all times possible, so I need the cars to be very responsive to turning.
 
@BlueShift, I'm going to start on the Miata today if I find time. And I would like to mess with the suspension on the R-34, loosen the car up a bit. I take the inside on all times possible, so I need the cars to be very responsive to turning.
You will love the miata, nothing turns quite like it. It may lack straight line guts but through the twisty bits this car is virtually unmatched, it will make super cars look like river barges.
You can loosen up any 4wd by using the variable centre differential and pushing some more of the power to the rear wheels, whether this is a way to make a car faster is debatable, you may just make it more likely to spin. Have a go once you've got your head around RWD though, 4wd's can be tricky to tune.
As mentioned above, leave the camber alone at the moment. All you can do with it currently is reduce grip due to something being wrong with the physics engine.
 
You will love the miata, nothing turns quite like it. It may lack straight line guts but through the twisty bits this car is virtually unmatched, it will make super cars look like river barges.
You can loosen up any 4wd by using the variable centre differential and pushing some more of the power to the rear wheels, whether this is a way to make a car faster is debatable, you may just make it more likely to spin. Have a go once you've got your head around RWD though, 4wd's can be tricky to tune.
As mentioned above, leave the camber alone at the moment. All you can do with it currently is reduce grip due to something being wrong with the physics engine.
Oh, I won't be tuning anything big for a long while. I need to get a grip with road cars first.

Anyone tried the truck?
 
Bought a Miata, bought lsd, here's what I've learned about it:

Higher Initial Torque = understeer when cornering from a straight line.
Higher Acceleration Sensitivity = Sliding, drifting.
Higher braking sensitivity = more stability, more understeer when braking.

Going to mess with suspension next.
 
Bought a Miata, bought lsd, here's what I've learned about it:

Higher Initial Torque = understeer when cornering from a straight line.
Higher Acceleration Sensitivity = Sliding, drifting.
Higher braking sensitivity = more stability, more understeer when braking.

Going to mess with suspension next.
Initial sets the overall feel of the diff and affects both acc and dec
everything else is spot on
 
Decided to save suspension for another time.

The only problem with the miata is there are no problems to fix. I do better when I have something that needs done. For example, I took a bit of the understeer out of the F-150. No understeer in the Miata. Nothing is wrong with it.
 
The miata is extremely average in every respect but it can be improved immensely with very simple tuning, thats sort of the point of the exercise
 
Decided to save suspension for another time.

The only problem with the miata is there are no problems to fix. I do better when I have something that needs done. For example, I took a bit of the understeer out of the F-150. No understeer in the Miata. Nothing is wrong with it.
But can you improve its lap times?

That's the real reason for tuning, A, to make the car more stable /driveable and B, to make it faster.

Just because it handles perfectly doesn't mean it's got the most grip it could have.

If you want a challenge try a Nissan Silvia S13, turn in understeer and power oversteer a plenty when you give it some power upgrades.
 
That's why the Silvia is hard, because your not fighting only one issue, you have two opposing issues that need addressing in different ways. You are trying to find the balance that the mx5 has, not too much front end grip that you can't control the exits, and not too much rear end grip that you ruin the turn in.

It's all fun and games.
 
That's why the Silvia is hard, because your not fighting only one issue, you have two opposing issues that need addressing in different ways. You are trying to find the balance that the mx5 has, not too much front end grip that you can't control the exits, and not too much rear end grip that you ruin the turn in.

It's all fun and games.
Silvia it is. It suffers from understeer and oversteer, just at different points. I'll play later though, don't really feel like messing around with it right now.
 
I'll mess with it more later, and I'll buy the silvia too. I just do better if I know what I have to do.
Yes I can understand that, but to fix these problems/characteristics on cars, you first need to understand how all of the suspension bits affect the car, then you will be much more likely to get a good result. When you start adjusting things on the miata you willl almost immediately feel the effects and be able to make sense of the tuning. You might stiffen up the rear springs and find the car suddenly oversteers, then you would know that stiff rear = oversteer. But if you try that with a truck the effect might be lost due to some other factor and you wouldn't learn anything and be left scratching your head.
 
Yes I can understand that, but to fix these problems/characteristics on cars, you first need to understand how all of the suspension bits affect the car, then you will be much more likely to get a good result. When you start adjusting things on the miata you willl almost immediately feel the effects and be able to make sense of the tuning. You might stiffen up the rear springs and find the car suddenly oversteers, then you would know that stiff rear = oversteer. But if you try that with a truck the effect might be lost due to some other factor and you wouldn't learn anything and be left scratching your head.
With the F-150, stiffening the rear springs really only worked in conjunction with raising the rear hieght, dropping the front hieght, and softening the front springs a bit. This made it too prone to understeer though, so I chose for equal ride hieght, stiffer rear, and lsd settjngs to fix understeer.
 
With the F-150, stiffening the rear springs really only worked in conjunction with raising the rear hieght, dropping the front hieght, and softening the front springs a bit. This made it too prone to understeer though, so I chose for equal ride hieght, stiffer rear, and lsd settjngs to fix understeer.
I'm just about to test your truck, buying parts as I write this, looking forward to driving it.
Generally, having the nose lower than the tail will induce oversteer, having the nose higher induces understeer in my experience.
 
I'm just about to test your truck, buying parts as I write this, looking forward to driving it.
Generally, having the nose lower than the tail will induce oversteer, having the nose higher induces understeer in my experience.
Same thing that happened with the truck, higher nose gave more understeer.

Hope you like it!
 
The Ford GT '06 is actually a really easy car to tune and is a great start to tuning MR cars.
 
I use my '06 GT regularly, on SH, SS, and RH tires. The suspension is so easy to tune in that car that I don't even have my tunes saved in the A, B, and C slots, I just retune the A slot when I change tires.

Edit, and no, I don't have the LM or '05......yet.
 
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I use my '06 GT regularly, on SH, SS, and RH tires. The suspension is so easy to tune in that car that I don't even have my tunes saved in the A, B, and C slots, I just retune the A slot when I change tires.

Edit, and no, I don't have the LM or '05......yet.
okay, thanks!
 
Hey guys, I was looking to get into tuning, and I've been trying hard to get one right, but I screw it up every time.

What class is easiest to tune? Street, Race, Supercar?

What type of tune? Circuit, oval, drag, drift?

Thanis in advance.

I think the best car to buy for beginners is the one that you really love to own in real life. Learn the basics in tuning first then try to go one step further. For example if you have a supercar, try not to tune to much on the engine side. Master the movement of the car on its stock suspension first. Get a hold of the car on how it reacts in just one blip (or press if you're using a DS3) of the throttle. If you know that you mastered something go one step further, upgrade suspension, drivetrain, then power. This is just from my perspective. It depends on your tolerance and patience to get the feel of the car. I know you can do it. Once you got the hang of it I'm sure you're eager to try on the others. Enjoy.
 
I think the best car to buy for beginners is the one that you really love to own in real life. Learn the basics in tuning first then try to go one step further. For example if you have a supercar, try not to tune to much on the engine side. Master the movement of the car on its stock suspension first. Get a hold of the car on how it reacts in just one blip (or press if you're using a DS3) of the throttle. If you know that you mastered something go one step further, upgrade suspension, drivetrain, then power. This is just from my perspective. It depends on your tolerance and patience to get the feel of the car. I know you can do it. Once you got the hang of it I'm sure you're eager to try on the others. Enjoy.
That would be an old Corvette, a modern Camaro, something European (Ferrari or Lambo maybe), an old Lincoln, I could go on and on...

But anyway, already tuned an Art Morrison Corvette with @Dolhaus,check it out in our joint garage.
 
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