Grr have i broken my t300rs?

  • Thread starter John G
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John G

John G

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I thought I'd use the spare shifter wires to hook up to a separate sequential shifter. I extended the wires to a plug, but when i put it all together again, the wheel didn't work in game (it did work on the menu).

It looks like R1 is permanently on now, i don't know why that would be as i only cut and extended the wires. L1 works as you would expect, both on paddle and through the plug. I pulled the R1 connector off the circuit board but it's still showing as permanently on. Testing the pins, I'm getting a bit of resistance between the r1 pins on the circuit board, and this is similar to what i get across l1, so there doesn't appear to be a short there.

Have i broken it - and will it need a new pcb to fix?

Also i spliced into the ground and r3 wires between the circuit board and the button board for a handbrake. However joining these doesn't turn r3 on in the logitech control panel. Oddly, I'm sure i was able to assign handbrake to r3 signal using the spliced wires in dirt 2.
 
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Ok so to update, turns out i spliced into the wrong wires for the handbrake (joining R3 to L3 instead of ground).
Maybe that shorted something else on the board that means that the right paddle is now stuck on. I unplugged the connector from the wheel rim to eliminate that and it's still hot, so i guess the board is knackered.

In my defence the main pcb appears to be printed wrong. It indicates that the brown is the common ground, actually ground is the orange. Red is R3, brown is L3.
 
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@John G Have you tried to undo your mod and see if it helps? I don't have the schematic of the T300 board, but I'd assume that both R3 and L3 was at the same potential and shorting them shouldn't really matter. Another cause of defect could be a static electricity discharge when you handled the board (I always touch a grounded object before handling electronics.)

And regarding the coloured cables, it's a good idea to always check polarity with a multimeter before modding (ground is easy to find with the continuity tester) - it seems that they don't take colour coding as seriously in some (i.e. Chinese) factories as elsewhere. If all else fails, it should be possible to find a used pcb for sale online. Good luck!

@Knorpel This is funny to you? Smh. (Also, I don't think you're supposed to make new accounts here after being banned already.) And regarding your Fanatec DD suggestion, take a look at their forums - one of their customers fried both his PS4 and his PC because of the cheap USB cables they supply.
 
Skinny McLean
@John G Have you tried to undo your mod and see if it helps? I don't have the schematic of the T300 board, but I'd assume that both R3 and L3 was at the same potential and shorting them shouldn't really matter. Another cause of defect could be a static electricity discharge when you handled the board (I always touch a grounded object before handling electronics.)

And regarding the coloured cables, it's a good idea to always check polarity with a multimeter before modding (ground is easy to find with the continuity tester) - it seems that they don't take colour coding as seriously in some (i.e. Chinese) factories as elsewhere. If all else fails, it should be possible to find a used pcb for sale online. Good luck!
Click to expand...

Thanks. Yeah first thing i did was to pull all the plugs off the PCB, for the paddles and the R3/L3 board, and it's still bad. Its impossible for me to tell where the fault is on the board, i obviously made a mistake but I'd be surprised if that actually caused my failure. Especially as L3 and R3 still work perfectly. So maybe it was just coincidence and it just chose that day to fail. Or maybe i tugged a bit hard on the wires coming out for the paddles and damaged the circuit board - i didn't notice any static shock but again it's possible.
I am keeping an keep a look out for a used board but no luck so far. I'll probably just end up getting a new t300 and selling the old one for spares - and hopefully it's as reliable as my old one was (probably had it 5 years now).
If i can't find another one, i might remove the paddle input pin into the microchip from the pcb, this will tell me if the fault is on the board ahead of the microchip, and then i can just make up some new wiring. If it's in or after the microchip, then the board is stuffed anyway.
Unless anyone knows how to remove built in printed components from a pcb...!?
 
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To close this out, i bought another wheel 2nd hand, and applied my (now correct) wiring mods. Tested it on PC control and appears to work perfectly.

View media item 61966Just to confirm, the circuit board printing to me reads ground, L3, R3 left to right. However, as per my previous post, its L3 (brown), R3 (red) ground (orange) left to right.

Now ive just to finish making my handbrake and sequential shifter! :sly:
 
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