GT5 Tuning Shop - Realized

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CodeRedR51

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I know I can't be the only person who has tried to tie the GT5 parts you purchase in the game for all your cars, to real-life parts. And if I am, well that's just down right sad. :lol: Anyway! I thought it would be fun to come up with a list, so here it is.

Below are parts that do not have a clear description (IE Carbon Hood) that I started with the games description and took it a bit further. Any suggestions on changes/additions will be considered. :dopey:

Chassis Reinforcement
  • Strut Tower Bars (Front and Rear)
  • Subframe Bracing (Front and/or Rear)

Window Weight Reduction
  • Polycarbonate Windows

Weight Reduction Stage 1
  • Car Jack/Spare Tire removed
  • Interior panels/carpet removed
  • Sound Insulation removed

Weight Reduction Stage 2
  • Aluminum/Carbon Fiber Doors
  • Aluminum/Carbon Fiber Trunk
  • Carbon Fiber Wing/Spoiler (if applicable)

Weight Reduction Stage 3
  • Carbon Monocoque Shell

Engine Tune Stage 1
  • Pulley kit
  • Engine balancer

Engine Tune Stage 2
  • Pistons (High or Low Comp)

Engine Tune Stage 3
  • Pistons (High or Low Comp)
  • Connecting Rods
  • Camshafts
  • Valve Train (Springs, Retainers)
  • Crankshaft Balance and/or Knife Edge

Sports Intake Manifold
  • Porting and/or Port Match
  • Intake runner polish

Sports Air Filter
  • Replacement Panel Filter

Racing Air Filter
  • Cold Air Intake
 
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I try to match the tuning to real parts all the time if I don't want to fully modify a car.

I think some of the weight reduction would also be to replace body panels with carbon fibre or similar.

Stage 1 to me is removing all easily unboltable parts like all interior trim, seats and unnecessary parts.

Stage 2 would be lightning some parts of the car with fiberglass or removing material

Stage 3 would be carbon body panels and even making some parts of the car tube frame.
 
I think you're right about the weight reduction. I'll write some things down and change it in the morning.
 
Don't agree with your weight reductions. Try reducing the weight fully on any premium car then check the interior view from a front and reverse aspect - nothings changed. Even in the RM models such as the Lexus IS-F they still have the rear seats in and all the comfy fixtures.
 
Don't agree with your weight reductions. Try reducing the weight fully on any premium car then check the interior view from a front and reverse aspect - nothings changed. Even in the RM models such as the Lexus IS-F they still have the rear seats in and all the comfy fixtures.

We're talking theoretically here man. Just because it doesn't "show" it in the game doesn't mean you can't pretend and have a little fun with it. That weight has to go somewhere.
 
We're talking theoretically here man. Just because it doesn't "show" it in the game doesn't mean you can't pretend and have a little fun with it. That weight has to go somewhere.

Just because the seats are still there doesn't mean anything, it wouldn't have been worth Polyphony's time and effort to include that feature when there was so many other things to do and hardly anyone would have noticed anyway.

I mean tyres for instance, in photo mode can you see the difference in apperance between normal and slick tyres?

I know on standard you can't, don't know about premuim cars.
 
Just because the seats are still there doesn't mean anything, it wouldn't have been worth Polyphony's time and effort to include that feature when there was so many other things to do and hardly anyone would have noticed anyway.

I mean tyres for instance, in photo mode can you see the difference in apperance between normal and slick tyres?

I know on standard you can't, don't know about premuim cars.



Yes, the tread patterns are clearly visible. And if they can go to the fine degree of replicating the weave in a seatbelt then i'm sure they can replicate ditching the rear seats and door cards etc when they go to the lengths of including a roll cage. Seems a a poor exclusion to me not to mention being an obvious exclusion. When i take my own car on a track day the 1st thing i do is remove the back seats and door cards.
 
Changing the camshaft(s) should come into play much earlier, it was the first thing done to my car. The first stage would also include things such as polished ports and slight machining of the head for increased compression ratio. All of those are relatively cheap and basic things.
 
I based the modifications on the description in the game. For NA stage 1 it only talks about balancing the motor. Stage two talks about raising the compression, and stage three talks about another compression bump and reinforcing the motor with stronger, lightweight components. That's how I came up with each idea.
 
You have carpet removal twice under weight reduction.....out of curiosity what did you base the weight reduction on?
 
There's trunk carpet first, then the interior carpet second. Two different things. ;)

That was just my best guess, as that's the order in which I would do it.
 
Its to bad u have to race ms cars for it to show any difference on exterior or interior ( unless u buy body kits )
 
R1600Turbo I do this all the time, matter fact my hardcore league is based on your theory with some tweaks. For example we currently have 8 people in my league (friends and family) My uncle drives the 350Z, his first upgrade was a set of Greddy Type S Coilover Kit for $1,496.25 Front: 10K, Rear: 8K took him about a week to save up for this. The spring rate the Greddy coilovers consist of HAS to be run thats why picking the right suspension is crucial. The way the Greddy type s corresponds with GT5 suspension mod in GT5 would be like this, My uncle would be eligible to buy the fully custom suspension. He would only be able to change the height, dampening and must run a spring rate of 10k in the front and 8k in the back.

If he wanted to adjust the camber he would need to buy camber adjusters, If he wanted to adjust the Sway bars he needs to buy them, same for adjusting toe in my league you need to purchase every corresponding part to adjust it in GT5. It is hell of fun. Its cool to see you play to a similar style like me. When it comes to upgrading a cars power there are many things I factor in such as the quality of the part, the power the parts gives you, and if the driver gets his car tunned so he/she can get the car to run at its full potential

Lets talk about exhaust systems here is one my uncle has in mind
Nismo S-Tune Catback Exhaust System Nissan
Complete 3-piece, mandrel-bent cat-back exhaust system
6 HP and 3.5 lb-ft gain to rear wheels
9 lbs. lighter than stock system
T-304 stainless steel construction

So if one bought this exhaust system in my league they would be able to buy the 1st exhaust system, the 1st weight reduction with adjusting the weight of the 350Z to 9lb lighter. You don't get the full affect of the weight reduction mod you match up the weight to the corresponding parts you have on your car. The 6HP 3.5 lb to the wheels would be only fully achievable with a ECU upgrade and a tune. so If you don't have that you would have to adjust the HP level in the power limiter screen.

R1600 Its cool to see you play similar to my stale in GT5 I would love to get with you and pick your brain so I could make my league that much better. In the future i want to bring this style to GT5P and get all the hardcore and eager players to join. 👍
 
XPOWER180
Yes, the tread patterns are clearly visible. And if they can go to the fine degree of replicating the weave in a seatbelt then i'm sure they can replicate ditching the rear seats and door cards etc when they go to the lengths of including a roll cage. Seems a a poor exclusion to me not to mention being an obvious exclusion. When i take my own car on a track day the 1st thing i do is remove the back seats and door cards.

I that would of required PD to have modeled all the interiors in multiple variations. Seems like they had their hands full just making the Premium cars they did as they did.
 
Weight stage 3 is going to be much more than what you have listed. I would suggest:

Remove all sound deadening
Replace all body panels with carbon fiber units
Swiss cheese and gusset frame

Also, PD should be ashamed of themselves for the rotary engine tuning menu, as it still reads the same as piston engines...WTF

Stage 1 should be

Mild reshaping and enlarging of intake and exhaust ports, slightly larger injectors, revised fuel tuning

Stage 2:

Secondary 'bridge' port cut into intermediate housings, larger exhaust ports, conversion to coil-on-spark ignition system, standalone fuel management system, underdrive pulleys installed on all accessory drives, rev-limiter moved to 10,000rpm

Stage 3:

Very large 'peripheral ports' cut into rotor housing. Filled in side ports. Extreme exhaust tuning. Hardened stationary gears, lightened high compression rotors, 2mm carbon apex seals, pinned block, auxiliary oil tank for OMP installed, dry-sump installed. Custom race intake manifold with individual throttle bodies. Scatter shield for bellhousing. Rev-limit moved to 11,500rpm
 
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^^^ I'll have to look at the Rotary stuff soon. I'm basing my list off of the description in the game, which for Stage 1 Tuning just says something about engine balancing. I'll update the list tonight.
 
I've looked into the weight reduction a little bit. Actually, GT4 has quite good descriptions about the weight reduction tuning. I've summarised it below:

Weight Reduction Description from GT4:
Stage 1: Remove back seats, upholstery, sound insulation
Stage 2: Replace the material of the bonnet, front and rear wings, boot lid and other parts with aluminium, titanium and carbon.
Stage 3: Not only replaces the material of the parts but also installs carbon monocoque shell similar to race machines to lighten the car.
 
Nice thread !! :)

TURBO's

Problem with this is, a skyline R34 has epic turbo power lol while a smaller car will have smaller turbo usage.

This is either, with the skyline engine, you can up the boost. Or use a bigger better turbo.

I would rather go with the "up the boost" option to keep things consistent.



Low RPM Kit = Garret GT15 Turbo, quick spooling and good for around 100-150bhp on low or high boost, designed for low displacement engines so lacks efficiency at higher RPM's due to air flow deficiency. Power band definitely tails off.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT15/GT1544_454083_2.htm


Mid RPM Kit = Garrett GT32 , good mid-range turbo power wise, not as fast to spool as low rpm turbo, yet faster than high rpm turbo. Good for 200bhp-420bhp alone.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT32/GT3271_452203_1.htm


High RPM Kit = Garrett GT35 very powerful, good for around 400bhp-600bhp alone, or over 1000bhp when used as a twin turbo. Slower to spool up than others.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT35/GT3582R_714568_3.htm



Intercoolers matched up using power values in this list...

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Intercoolers/Intercoolers.htm



**If you make over the max power value for that turbo we could say you are now running twin turbos.**


Sorry if I'm wrong xD
 
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To much power xD

GT37 maybe, GT35 is close enough I reckon, don't forget the power house R34 is twin turbo.

And you would fit different turbo's to a big V8 than you would to a small 4cyl 2ltr, so we got to generalise :p
 
Me dad runs about 1.8 bar on his turbo Celica st205 GT-FOUR.

About 25psi, makes around 390bhp. (Old TD06 turbo)
 
You guys can try check out my tuning garage. It's based loosely on the parts available for the cars in real life.

RLT Garage

Yes!

That's awesome. I've always wanted to do something like that, but I can't tune for crap so it wouldn't really work out that well. :lol:

Edit: Fixed the weight reduction listing to better match what GT4 has listed.
 
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For the turbos we can use the horse power limiter. The highest hp number it gives is the max psi I like what gt welsh said I don't know about the twin turbo idea though lol.
 
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