GT6 DAMPERS?

Discussion in 'GT6 Tuning' started by Tazz69, Jan 17, 2014.

  1. Dashyankuro

    Dashyankuro

    Messages:
    252
    Dampers is The Absorbers.

    There's so many design in the market, from Leaf Type for trucks, Air-Type, Oil-Type, Half-Air-Half-Oil Type, or the one with Canister mostly used in Rally Cars (Which absorb the most Impacts). There's also a Type they fix Vertically for cars like F1, LMP or some concept cars; come with a revolutionary Damper that minimising the need of Springs just to save number of parts being used; mainly to save overall weight.

    I don't know how GT6 define all that into 10 Clicks of Setting, but all type of Dampers works for the same Purpose.

    The common theory is;
    1. Front Compression should be Harder/Higher than Front Extension; if u r driving with Late Braking. (unlike what's advised by the standard GT6 Damper Note)
    2. Rear Compression should be Softer/Lower than Rear Extension; so it's stablizing quickly under accelerating. Like a Rally Car jumping up a hills, and landing just smoothly and immidiately accellerating without much bounching.

    Ideally is;
    4/3
    3/4

    However; even in the real world, Driver compatibility is important (Arguable, Yes)
    Basicall; do whatever u want.
     
  2. OdeFinn

    OdeFinn

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    Location:
    Finland
    If you setup your cars springs to receive needed weight transfers then you can run "any" damper value.
    (Static load+ transferred side load) + transferred brake load + transferred acceleration load = ideal spring stiffness RATIO.
     
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  3. OdeFinn

    OdeFinn

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    2,643
    Location:
    Finland
    An exemple, I bought a car on GT6, in this case Dodge Charger 440 R/T '70
    Then picked up calculator and did few set of springs to it, calculations give me these
    On ride height 105/105 springs 6.29/5.24 and on ride height 100/105 got rate 6.57/5.22. (Edit: have to count again, made one mistake on further calculations, probably here too :), edit2:counting was right, error was on my non public results.)
    Then I went on track and tested those, nothing else changed but those springs and ride height, car has neutral driving and you can start to adjust dampers for your own preferred style.

    Above is just for showing how quickly you can count approximations of weight transfer and needed resistance on springs. Above is made to have decent body movements, "mid range" movements, keeping spring ratio F:R same and increasing or decreasing stiffness you can give more movements, OR you just resist movements with stiffer dampers.

    Edit: trivia for Charger: Install all power parts, (no oil) you should get 575pp/802hp/1650kg, then install custom gearbox 310kmh and change camber and toe to next, -0.5/-0.5 camber, 0.00/0.00 toe. This works fine on 105/105 height, what should be changed on raked suspension to achieve similar behavior on handling? And how much and why?
    Next trivia: if you install full weight reduction on car how much you have to change springs to achieve similar body movements? New weight is 1321kg and staying same 50:50 weight distribution as on stock 1650kg.
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2016
    Jimmy Haight likes this.
  4. MrGrado

    MrGrado

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    1,198
    Part 1: nothing, it's still at the stock weight. you might get more weight transfer to the rear with acceleration but it cant be avoided without changing how the car drives under braking and while coasting. You can always drive a car with less accelerator where needed.

    Part 2: 20% less springs because the car is 20% lighter.
     
  5. OdeFinn

    OdeFinn

    Messages:
    2,643
    Location:
    Finland
    Wrong, front suspension moves less after rake, dynamic camber rate increment is smaller, so adding 0.1 degree more camber to front is necessary to keep cornering grip same on smaller dynamic camber. = -0.6/-0.5 camber after rake.

    Yep, easy as is.

    How's this reheated to dampers you might wonder.. well "low" Hz springs counted to resist quite close mass movements during braking and acceleration and you don't have to "tweak" dampers lot, but because of kinda soft and low Hz you have to stall bouncing using higher extension values than compress on dampers. That low Hz on this setup it is somewhere around ~2.5 - 3 Hz(f3.3 r2.3 Hz), nice road car stiffness, without huge amount of power car would run perfectly on c3/3 e5/5 a3/3, but I pushed that car to maximum power, and then comes next part of trivia: full power, lightest possible and rear just keeps spinning... What to do on suspension? (I first tuned car without LSD, so if you're doing this car, stay open diff at this point, eases to see few things)
    Below is this car on Bathurst, 802bhp/1226Nm/1321kg/587pp noABS.
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2016
    Jimmy Haight likes this.