GT7 Daily Race Discussion

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No racing for me tonight. Been packing some stuff up to sell to CEX tomorrow, namely my Xbox series X and 3 (three!) Logitech G923 wheels, 2 for Xbox and one for PS.

Pulled the trigger on a Fanatec GT DD Pro.

Am I excited? Yes I am šŸ˜‚

Good going mate, you won’t be disappointed, I keep nearly upgrading to the extreme version, something (wife) always keeps me re thinking it, but one day I’ll get through the door silently! 😁

The stock wheel is good but I’d recommend the CSL steering wheel, super cheap and it’s QR2 lite, so swapping them out is easy, man I’ve had days when I slightly over tightened the stock wheel thinking I’d never get it off again!

That’s going to improve you by a good few tenths!
 
No racing for me tonight. Been packing some stuff up to sell to CEX tomorrow, namely my Xbox series X and 3 (three!) Logitech G923 wheels, 2 for Xbox and one for PS.

Pulled the trigger on a Fanatec GT DD Pro.

Am I excited? Yes I am šŸ˜‚
Lovely news mate!!! When does it arrive? Interested to see how you feel the difference is after using the G923
 
Didn't have too much time this week for racing sadly. Busy at work, and my son is sick on top of that. Did some quali laps for trail mountain, but not so many and didn't nail a really good lap together (2:01:6.. feels like I should be able to dive into the 2:00's).

Entered one race yesterday, but halfway through my son started crying in bed so I had to go to him. I did had one thing I was happy with: I drive with practically no driving aids, accept for TC1 with high powered, rear wheel drive cars. So with the dailies that's basically group 3 and upwards. The 4WD cars I drive without TC.

I like the Megane Trophy for TM this week though, and despite having to run on the slippery hard tire I could drive it more or less consistently without TC on. Of course, there is less power going to the wheels than with the gr. 3 cars, but it's a start for me. So maybe my braking and rotating before getting on the power are getting better. In a later stage I can maybe drop TC altogether in dry races.
 
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Didn't have too much time this week for racing sadly. Busy at work, and my son is sick on top of that. Did some quali laps for trail mountain, but not so many and didn't nail a really good lap together (2:01:6.. feels like I should be able to dive into the 2:00's).

Entered one race yesterday, but halfway through my son started crying in bed so I had to go to him. I did had one thing I was happy with: I drive with practically no driving aids, accept for TC1 with high powered, rear wheel drive cars. So with the dailies that's basically group 3 and upwards. The 4WD cars I drive without TC.

I like the Megane Trophy for TM this week though, and despite having to run on the slippery hard tire I could drive it more or less consistently without TC on. Of course, there is less power going to the wheels than with the gr. 3 cars, but it's a start for me. So maybe my braking and rotating before getting on the power are getting better. In a later stage I can maybe drop TC altogether in dry races.
Hope your son is feeling better soon mate,

On the TC and Gr3, you may have seen my struggles with Gr3 the last few weeks and spinning out was a big issue, one thing that's helped me without TC was throttle modulation and working on getting to 70/80% pausing and then hitting 100% and this has reduced the spinning out where it isn't really much of an issue anymore. I spent some time just practising hitting 80% with my eyes closed until it was second nature. Hope this maybe helps
 
Hope your son is feeling better soon mate,

On the TC and Gr3, you may have seen my struggles with Gr3 the last few weeks and spinning out was a big issue, one thing that's helped me without TC was throttle modulation and working on getting to 70/80% pausing and then hitting 100% and this has reduced the spinning out where it isn't really much of an issue anymore. I spent some time just practising hitting 80% with my eyes closed until it was second nature. Hope this maybe helps
Do you find these Gr3 cars seem to have no grunt till the throttle pedal is near 80-100% which is hard to learn as it’s such a small amount of travel.
I’d be interested in folks feedback as my T-LCM pedals are 2nd hand and whilst I really like them, there seems to be a real dead zone with regard the power of the car till the very end of their travel and then it’s literally all or nothing. šŸ’Ø
I have calibrated them within the PS5 game so am aware of how that works.
Looking forward to hearing from you all.
šŸ™ŒšŸ»šŸ¤ 
 
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The stock wheel is good but I’d recommend the CSL steering wheel
I second this, the CSL wheel is an inch bigger and feels less like a toy. The button placement is not great though and you need a sticker pack to label everything but it's a really good and affordable wheel.
Didn't have too much time this week for racing sadly. Busy at work, and my son is sick on top of that. Did some quali laps for trail mountain, but not so many and didn't nail a really good lap together (2:01:6.. feels like I should be able to dive into the 2:00's).
I gave it a lash too, did 4 laps in the Nissan, the 4th lap felt like a really good effort but only a 2.02 flat. Was scratching my head a bit then realised I was on the RH lol. Got my QT down to a mid 2.00 which is competitive in high DR-B rooms. Qualified on pole by a second and had great pace on the RH, wondered why no one else was using the GTR, then I saw my front left ......... yeeeeeeeeeah. I went from P2 to P8 last lap as the front left went bang. Switched to the Porsche and had MUCH better tyre wear, managed a podium without nay practice. Fun race and really good track for Group 4.
 
I second this, the CSL wheel is an inch bigger and feels less like a toy. The button placement is not great though and you need a sticker pack to label everything but it's a really good and affordable wheel.

I gave it a lash too, did 4 laps in the Nissan, the 4th lap felt like a really good effort but only a 2.02 flat. Was scratching my head a bit then realised I was on the RH lol. Got my QT down to a mid 2.00 which is competitive in high DR-B rooms. Qualified on pole by a second and had great pace on the RH, wondered why no one else was using the GTR, then I saw my front left ......... yeeeeeeeeeah. I went from P2 to P8 last lap as the front left went bang. Switched to the Porsche and had MUCH better tyre wear, managed a podium without nay practice. Fun race and really good track for Group 4.
The info about mid 2.00 being good for high DR-B is reassuring as I’m about to finish my brief expedition into DR-A as those guys are a little to quick for me.
Looks like a bit more fun to be had in DR-B for me for a while šŸ˜‚šŸ¤ šŸ™ŒšŸ»
 
The info about mid 2.00 being good for high DR-B is reassuring as I’m about to finish my brief expedition into DR-A as those guys are a little to quick for me.
Looks like a bit more fun to be had in DR-B for me for a while šŸ˜‚šŸ¤ šŸ™ŒšŸ»
Yeah it’s gonna be some transition into sticking in DR A right? 😁 I’ve far enjoyed my time in high B these last weeks fighting at the front rather than for the wooden spoon!

I’m at the point now at Spa where it’s mixed with B and A and those A sorts are really aggressive and I have to say, very quick!
 
The info about mid 2.00 being good for high DR-B is reassuring as I’m about to finish my brief expedition into DR-A as those guys are a little to quick for me.
Looks like a bit more fun to be had in DR-B for me for a while šŸ˜‚šŸ¤ šŸ™ŒšŸ»
The problem is safety rating. If you are SR-S and graduate from DRB to DRA, you are likely to leapfrog a few levels and be in the 2nd top split. That's a pretty stark pace difference. I have made DR-A about 5 times then slowly drift back to DR-B. TBH B i smore fun, I am usually top 5 and hustling for a podium whereas in a near top DR-A split I am battling for 14th.
 
The problem is safety rating. If you are SR-S and graduate from DRB to DRA, you are likely to leapfrog a few levels and be in the 2nd top split. That's a pretty stark pace difference. I have made DR-A about 5 times then slowly drift back to DR-B. TBH B i smore fun, I am usually top 5 and hustling for a podium whereas in a near top DR-A split I am battling for 14th.
That’s really useful to know šŸ‘šŸ». I’m a full SR-S and was when I went up to
DR-A. Last race I fear in DR-A coming up and sooo looking forward to racing rather than pootling around looking for yellow flags 🫣🤠
 
The problem is safety rating. If you are SR-S and graduate from DRB to DRA, you are likely to leapfrog a few levels and be in the 2nd top split. That's a pretty stark pace difference. I have made DR-A about 5 times then slowly drift back to DR-B. TBH B i smore fun, I am usually top 5 and hustling for a podium whereas in a near top DR-A split I am battling for 14th.

I noticed on B this week, even a small drop in SR-S seems to make a huge difference in how the matchmaking works. I'd been starting near the back at full SR-S, then lost a chunk due hitting a spinning car. This put me in the top 3 for next couple of races, then back to starting around 10th when my SR bar was full again.
 
I noticed on B this week, even a small drop in SR-S seems to make a huge difference in how the matchmaking works. I'd been starting near the back at full SR-S, then lost a chunk due hitting a spinning car. This put me in the top 3 for next couple of races, then back to starting around 10th when my SR bar was full again.
GT SPort was rife for this, folks would tank their SR slightly and jump up in the DR ratings.
 
Just putting this out there in case it helps anyone else, playing around with @Barney Da Dog tips on the wheel sensitivity, dropped it further back to 550 today from 650 and managed another chunk of time!!! Now at 2.18.6xx at Spa and it must have been me compensating for the turn in by braking earlier, hence slowing me down so I’m now off to see how a little lower goes because I still understeer a little at end of the kemmel (7) and at Bruxelles (10) and Poulon (12)

Although I just did read the the post before on the SR because I’m a little chunk off full and started pole and won 😁

Barney, you’re officially my new race engineer 🤣

Edit. 2.18.503 and still loads of time I’m dumping in certain corners and using 450 now, this can’t be right, I’m even hitting 2.18s in race now, I’ll wake up soon this must be a dream šŸ˜‚šŸ¤£
 

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Just putting this out there in case it helps anyone else, playing around with @Barney Da Dog tips on the wheel sensitivity, dropped it further back to 550 today from 650 and managed another chunk of time!!!
That’s excellent improvement!!!

I personally went back to automatic settings on the wheel and worked on being quicker turning and catching and dialling in to the wider range of rotation I need/use.
 
Just putting this out there in case it helps anyone else, playing around with @Barney Da Dog tips on the wheel sensitivity, dropped it further back to 550 today from 650 and managed another chunk of time!!! Now at 2.18.6xx at Spa and it must have been me compensating for the turn in by braking earlier, hence slowing me down so I’m now off to see how a little lower goes because I still understeer a little at end of the kemmel (7) and at Bruxelles (10) and Poulon (12)

Although I just did read the the post before on the SR because I’m a little chunk off full and started pole and won 😁

Barney, you’re officially my new race engineer 🤣
How do you change wheel sensitivity? Is it manufacturer specific? I’m using a TM T-GT2 and on a PS5 and I can find force feedback Torque and FF Sensitivity but no sensitivity on a scale that you posted about. 😳🤠
 
How do you change wheel sensitivity? Is it manufacturer specific? I’m using a TM T-GT2 and on a PS5 and I can find force feedback Torque and FF Sensitivity but no sensitivity on a scale that you posted about. 😳🤠
You can do it in the TM wheel diag software which is annoying as it’s a connect it to a laptop/pc thing with the cable used to update the firmware etc.

It was such a pain when I had my TGT2 wheel. (The actual wheel rim and T-LCMs are some of the best for GT out there, I miss them!)

On the Fanatec DDs you can change the settings on the wheel rim to control the wheel base, it lets you set things like internal frequency, rotation, sensitivity, centring force etc.
 
You can do it in the TM wheel diag software which is annoying as it’s a connect it to a laptop/pc thing with the cable used to update the firmware etc.

It was such a pain when I had my TGT2 wheel. (The actual wheel rim and T-LCMs are some of the best for GT out there, I miss them!)

On the Fanatec DDs you can change the settings on the wheel rim to control the wheel base, it lets you set things like internal frequency, rotation, sensitivity, centring force etc.
Thanks šŸ™šŸ» that is worth knowing. I’ll do some research 🧐
 
Bud I’m on a fanatec so I don’t know, sorry!!!!

But I just posted a 2.18.149

THIS IS INSANE
When I switched to GT7 from Forza my pace dropped off a cliff and I'm fairly sure it's mostly to do with steering lock and brake feels differences. Even though I used the Logitech G923 in both games in Forza you could manually reduce steering lock in the tuning settings on every car. I started at 100% lock and gradually lowered it until I used 50% on all cars which was the minimum.

My Fanatec has arrived so will soon find out hopefully!
 
On another note

Next weeks are out :)

@Lightsider74 I look forward to you speeding past me in the leaderboard now this obvious secret is out 🤣😁
 

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Have you tried the TT in the Mazda at Road Atlanta with the reduced lock?

I want a top 100 in that one!
I haven’t! And that’s a superb shout,

Although I already have a gold and I’m not one for TT generally but I’ll have a go before it goes

On another note

Next weeks are out :)

@Lightsider74 I look forward to you speeding past me in the leaderboard now this obvious secret is out 🤣😁
I’m not sure about race B but race A could be a belter,

Interested to see what car they put with Brands
 
Thanks šŸ™šŸ» that is worth knowing. I’ll do some research 🧐
Just remember that the settings are limited for belt wheels and honestly, the previous GTWS drivers (the fastest in the world) where using that wheel in the standard settings, so settings are only partially helpful.
 
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