GTP_WRS Week 132 : Screaming Monaco

  • Thread starter EDK
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EDK
That might depend on which wheel you are using. Some of the wheels (and controllers) are game supported, others are not.

I use a Fanatec now, and I'm 99.9% sure that the screen does not register me putting in 100% brake input unless I actually push the pedal to full travel.

Personally I would assume that if the HUD does not show 100% brake pressure, that it's not 100%. That's somewhat supported by people having flickering issues with Pots going bad, etc., and their lap performance being subsequently affected.

In either case, I think @DeuxMilles should focus on making earlier decisions, being smooth first, and then gaining speed as he becomes comfortable with that.

Trying to go fast by first going as fast as you think you can go does not normally produce the best lap results.
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I've not tested, or heard of anyone testing this on fanatec, or thrustmaster wheels. I'll have to take your word for it. I was referring to the DFGT and G27 wheel sets as I have both and used both in GT5 and GT6 and my experience has proven this calibration method as what in fact happens. You can watch the calibration happen with the brake and accel bars. Don't press either pedal until you get on track and the hud is up. Press either pedal just a little and it will show 100% on the bar.

Either way I wasn't really addressing @DeuxMilles concern so here's another piece of advice.

The less braking and steering you have to do the faster you'll go. By all means get your gear calibrated to full travel. This is something I do the first time I get on track whether offline or online.

Something you may want to start paying closer attention to is tire squeal. The louder and more intense it is the less traction you have. Your initial brake input can be "digital" but you need go analog the closer you get to the turn in point and start letting off the pedal in order to start reserving traction for steering inputs. There's only so much traction under any circumstance and if you're using it all up for braking you'll have none for steering. A good corner to practice "trail braking" and brake input modulation is turn 1 at Indy road course. Something to keep in mind when paying attention to tire squeal however, the lower the class of tire the more squeal it will produce, all else being equal. Probably one of the reasons I suck at anything on comfort anything tires. The tire noise makes me think I've exceeded traction limits when in fact I haven't.
 
Hi,

once again thank you very much for your help. This forum is awesome :gtpflag:

EDK
That's what I saw on your Tsukuba lap, but you were also braking so late that there was no option but to brake 100%.
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well, I thought (lowbrainer :D) that braking as late as possible and as hard as possible is the key to be fast. But this digital driving seems not to be the best idea for all situations...

I'm not sure which pedals/wheel you have, so not sure what you're experiencing in terms of pedal feedback.
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Thrustmaster T300 RS with their stock-pedals. I saw the T3PA (non-Pro) pedals with the conical brake-mod, maybe I invest another 100 € to give them a try? My wife will kill me :D

Anything that offers a bit of resistance should make partial braking manageable. That's going to be G25/27 and up, from a pedal perspective.
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Can't find a mod for the T300RS stock-pedals...

I think you are going to find that most if not all the wheel users here left foot brake. There's a bit of required practice, for sure, but should not really keep you from managing different brake pressures for different situations.
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Yes, practice is another key. Have I mentioned earlier that patience is NOT my second name?

D. (afk for some laps)
 
Hi,
Dragonwhisky
Your initial brake input can be "digital" but you need go analog the closer you get to the turn in point and start letting off the pedal in order to start reserving traction for steering inputs.
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that's the point. I watch videos from earlier TimeTrails, atm this one



to learn. I see the braking as you describe, full brake, then less while surfin' to the apex. But I can't implement this to my own driving, maybe because of absolutely no feeeling in the left foot. Hope the T3PA gives the progression needed.

thx for your advice
D.
 
DeuxMilles
Hi,


that's the point. I watch videos from earlier TimeTrails, atm this one



to learn. I see the braking as you describe, full brake, then less while surfin' to the apex. But I can't implement this to my own driving, maybe because of absolutely no feeeling in the left foot. Hope the T3PA gives the progression needed.

thx for your advice
D.
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It's more a matter of what's telling you to do that. Right now, if you are under steering into a corner, you might be trying to turn the wheels more to make the apex.

Instead, trying gradually releasing the brake to create additional steering action. You're retraining your brain what to do in order to make the car turn.

I'm not saying the device won't help, but it's not implicitly needed to trail brake. You just need to practice the technique.
 
DeuxMilles
Hi,


that's the point. I watch videos from earlier TimeTrails, atm this one



to learn. I see the braking as you describe, full brake, then less while surfin' to the apex. But I can't implement this to my own driving, maybe because of absolutely no feeeling in the left foot. Hope the T3PA gives the progression needed.

thx for your advice
D.
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When you say you have no feeling in your left foot, do you mean a physiological issue with your foot? If it's not, then it's just a matter of you deciding you will let off that whoa down pedal by lifting your foot in a progressive and quick fashion so your car will go where you want it to. The same decision process can be made when exiting a turn and deciding you will analog the go fast pedal. Do you really need full brake going in and do you really need full power going out? Before you can "learn" you have to "decide" you will. I don't care what equipment or mods you've put in place.
 
Thought of something else you might consider @DeuxMilles .

The relationship of your seating position and your pedal set. The more horizontal that relationship is, the easier it will be to modulate the input. In other words, the closer to your butt the pedals are the harder it is to work your foot back and forth. Actually, if your feet are close enough to your butt you'll be lifting it up and down and mean 'ol Mr. Gravity will fight you tooth and nail. Get those pedals as far away and as level with your hind parts as you can and Mr. Gravity won't have no dog in that fight. I had a post somewhere that showed this relationship with stick figures but I've forgotten where it is.
 
Dragonwhisky
I've not tested, or heard of anyone testing this on fanatec, or thrustmaster wheels. I'll have to take your word for it. I was referring to the DFGT and G27 wheel sets as I have both and used both in GT5 and GT6 and my experience has proven this calibration method as what in fact happens. You can watch the calibration happen with the brake and accel bars. Don't press either pedal until you get on track and the hud is up. Press either pedal just a little and it will show 100% on the bar.
Click to expand...

Just tested this with my Fanatec CSR. The throttle this does apply to, but the brake it does not, at least with my testing. That was extremely interesting.
 
Can't pull a faster lap then my old splits, but have figured out a few things... with that said though I know and feel there is still much time left out to play. Coming up on close to 39 hours of work from tomorrow morning until Friday at 5pm I am not going to be able to up the ante.

Oh Monaco it is like screaming Monica in the Fast and Furious.
 
Small run before going to sleep and it's getting easier to get clean laps for me.

26.716
71.033

I also had ruined a 26.5-1:10.7 because the car oversteered and hit the left barrier at the last corner.
 
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Hey all, I might trying to give this one a go as my last DS3 TT, although will onyl have one half morning to practice and get a lap.

I got Myself an Old DFP for 15 bucks, and I'm trying to get used to it. its kinda hard, after more than a decade of using a controller.

In my 30 mins of fiddling around, i can already make a slow lap without going to cut some grass


Anyway, back to the TT. I love the track and car, so in a last effort before the vacations, i'm going to try to stay in the middle lower end of the table.

wish you all good luck, and paint the walls for a more fun track :cheers:
 
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DeuxMilles
sometimes, sometimes not. Just bite in the wheel :mad:

D.
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Well then, I'd like to suggest you go the always not restarting route. If you know the lap is blown you can relax the rest of the lap and just drive. Unless you're at Monaco and then you just scream at those dastardly armcos when they jump out in front. I digress. You can still try different things at various points and see what works and what doesn't. I can't count the time I've blown a lap and then found places where I gained time on my rabbit. Once you find those spots you can use them on laps that ain't blown.
 
Scrapped the barrier at the exit of Tabac after a 26.4

14683768.jpg


Edit:

26.449
70.299
 
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Not much a fan of Monaco and I may not submit a replay this week but, here's my best splits from those 18 laps last night.

0:27.027
1:11.427

This car has a less than inspiring exhaust note and could benefit from some BB adjustments and probably be better on SM tires. Just not enough torques for RHs. I may take another run at this later in the week, if my eyes can stand it. Getting the lap times added to my spreadsheet and making this post is about all I want tonight I think. Catch ya'll tomorrow.
 
Thematic
@Dragonwhisky I agree about tyres.
Not driving those laps where I brush something before the chicane, though.

27.465
72.600
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I think you might be surprised what you can learn when you relax after pooching a lap early and trying different things on that lap. Of course, that's providing you can convince yourself to relax. Monaco is one of the most frustrating tracks to get right however so, good luck however you do it.
Remember, you gotta get it wrong to learn how to do it right. Providing getting it wrong doesn't kill you anyway.
 
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