Help! Brakepedal with Loadcell or damping

31
Norway
Norway
Hi,

I recently went from Logitech G29 to Thrustmaster T-GT. Overjoyed and thrilled! but now that the novelty have worn off, I must say that those hundred of hundreds of hours with the Logitech Pedals have me fighting the T-GT pedals - especially the brake pedal.

As any insecure man with too much money, I thought I could buy myself out of this frustration that slowly is building up for every new lap I do...

So... heard lots about Loadcells, but found that Damping is cheaper, but not so often mentioned in reviews. GTS is all I drive: What is the best way to go on a Thrustmaster ECO system (..and I don`t want to build a Fanatec/Thrustmaster cyborg)?
 
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When you say damping kit, which kit are you referring to? Either I haven't seen a lot of cheaper options on the market, or we have a different understanding of damped pedals.
 
..and I don`t want to build a Fanatec/Thrustmaster cyborg
Do it!.png


:D

Edit: If you still have the Logitech pedals you can use them with this adapter.
 
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Interesting, but I would still think a load cell would feel better. Ideally, something using both technologies (load cell and hydraulics) is what I'd want (and very expensive). The bad news, I think you need to try the options to know exactly which way to go, and that is incredibly difficult for sim gear without buying both.

Good luck.
 
Interesting, but I would still think a load cell would feel better. Ideally, something using both technologies (load cell and hydraulics) is what I'd want (and very expensive). The bad news, I think you need to try the options to know exactly which way to go, and that is incredibly difficult for sim gear without buying both.

Good luck.

Was actually thinking about a combination, yes... but from all the reviews I've read about the Ricmotech it looks like there will be very short action range on the pedal when installed on the T3PA (which comes with the T-GT) and then the damping thing would be kinda "not doing anything".. at least so I think. And all the damping solutions I've seen online all still uses the dreadful Cone

But I'm not so very serious about this.. but I just have to beat my friend who always is at least a second faster than me when qualifying, and he still uses the left/right buttons on the PS-controller ( :banghead: AAARGH! så frustrating)

Thank you 👍

:D

Edit: If you still have the Logitech pedals you can use them with this adapter.

Hehe, Star Trek Cyborgs are even worse then the Fanatic/Thrustmaster mash ...

Thnx, but the feel of the T-GT was so much better then the old G29 ( in GTS that is, haven't tried any other sims with it yet) so I sold it at a ridiculous low prize already after a week with my new baby
 
Was actually thinking about a combination, yes... but from all the reviews I've read about the Ricmotech it looks like there will be very short action range on the pedal when installed on the T3PA (which comes with the T-GT) and then the damping thing would be kinda "not doing anything".. at least so I think. And all the damping solutions I've seen online all still uses the dreadful Cone

But I'm not so very serious about this.. but I just have to beat my friend who always is at least a second faster than me when qualifying, and he still uses the left/right buttons on the PS-controller ( :banghead: AAARGH! så frustrating)

Thank you 👍
The Ricmotech LC has got a reasonably short throw but it's still better (for me) than the TM Brake Mod. The problem with both (and probably the damping kits as well) in GT Sport is that braking threshold is a moving target. Every time you press the pedal harder your brake pressure changes and the only way around this is to just use the pedals stock. Unfortunately because there's no real in game calibration this will always be an issue for those of us with modded pedals (unless you can press the brakes to full pressure every time, I can't :indiff:). I'm not sure if Fanatec wheels and pedals that have onboard adjustments suffer from this as well but I'd presume the programming in GT Sport would still over-ride the settings.

But still no amount of money spent will gain you that elusive second, certainly not a brake mod. It main gain you more consistency with you're braking (if you can get past the pressure changes) only practice over time will :).

Sorry for the long-winded-round-about reply :embarrassed::)

:lol: 👍
 
...I'm not sure if Fanatec wheels and pedals that have onboard adjustments suffer from this as well but I'd presume the programming in GT Sport would still over-ride the settings.

Yeah, with Fanatec's load cell pedal options, I believe all the newer wheels have the ability to adjust brakes on the wheelbase independent of the game. That could be the reason most rave about the CSL Elite LC set (being reasonable priced, adjustable through the base, and for physical tension through the pedal). The Clubsports are just on another level with their adjustability.
 
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The Ricmotech LC has got a reasonably short throw but it's still better (for me) than the TM Brake Mod. The problem with both (and probably the damping kits as well) in GT Sport is that braking threshold is a moving target. Every time you press the pedal harder your brake pressure changes and the only way around this is to just use the pedals stock. Unfortunately because there's no real in game calibration this will always be an issue for those of us with modded pedals (unless you can press the brakes to full pressure every time, I can't :indiff:).

Well.. I`m pretty much stomping through the floor as is..Had do screw the wheelstand to the floor to stop it crashing into the TV on Endurance races :D

But still no amount of money spent will gain you that elusive second, certainly not a brake mod. It main gain you more consistency with you're braking (if you can get past the pressure changes) only practice over time will :).

But it is the breaking I have problems with, it`s not consistent. I`m ending up "feeling" my way to what pressure is required for each turn which tends to give me longer brake runs instead of short powerful bursts. It`s ok while in a race, but in Qualifying it`s sooooo frustrating - especially with that so called "friend" mocking me about my expensive wheel. Yesterday I had him! I was .453 seconds faster than him - Pix it - rushed to the facebook clan page - wrote a long taunt in the lines of: "is that dust of mine irritating your eyes back there?" - He replied: "Not really", and pixed his new results where he was a full SECOND faster than me!!! :banghead: ... will this never end? :lol:
 
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the Ricmotech Loadcell has about 5 millimeter brakingrange on the pedal when installed, but takes only a minute or two to get used to. The breaking is much more precise and I`ve noticed that my average laptimes are faster - still do stupid things :banghead: when trying to get that pole position in daily races, but in average I`m doing better. :lol:

The installation was not difficult but it did take some time (I was born with lefthands full of oversized thumbs)

Not sure if it was worth the money, but when it`s installed and payed for - I`m all happy face. :cheers:
 
Nice, I never had the chance to do that on my G29 or G27 pedals. But I'm curious, I know on my CSL Elites LCs the position of the load cell is VERY sensitive to foot placement (due to leverage). Are the Ricmotech's the same? I'd assume there is a difference in leverage by pressing high on the pedal vs. the middle, but I'm gonna go out on a limb and guess its not too bad. The CSL Elite LC's have a significant difference based on foot placement, I'd say somewhere around 20-30% from the top of the pedal to the middle.
 
Not really sure if there is a difference on my pedals. I have the T3PA for the Thrustmaster T-GT and they’re made completely out of metall... that might even out the pressure. You can also move the pedals footplate up/down and do some angle adjustments, so maybe I got lucky :lol:

Then again: The manual say you need to be in a more lying position and do not recommend driving from on a office chair
 
Thanks, I may try a different pedal angle to mitigate the issue, but yes my seating position is a little high in comparison to the pedal only making that leverage issue worse.
 
Good luck and pls leave a comment here about what you find out :cheers:

This is a year old now so I'm wondering how you got on with the Ricmotec LC. I just installed one in my G29... Problem is that in GTS it recalibrates the break maximum every time you press harder than the previous max. Without a hard stopper on the brake pedal it just keeps getting harder and harder through the session. Have you found any way around that? I've seen on other pedals, some people install a bolt to give a hard stop, but since the Ricmotec LC has extremely little travel, I'm not sure if that would work.
 
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