hey, i need...

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a good HANDLING recipe, if it matters for what cars then i need it for my shyline and my lotus espirit (both cars are maxed out, hp wise).. thanks
 
lower them, put some suspension on, play with the gearing, and stuff like that.,
 
What are your problems?

In general, I like to run like this:

medium slicks
lightweight I & II
ride height set to about 20-25% (lower for smooth tracks like Speedways)
ACS 1, TCM 2
rear suspension one or two notches down from full hard
full rear stabilizer
front suspension about 25-50% hard
25% front stabilizer

That seems to produce a car that will oversteer enough to rotate well, without being totally tailhappy.
 
ok. heres the thing. i never really play on the curcuits so im not very good. but im trying to beat some tracks now but these cars are so fast that they suck on turns...get my drift?
 
I'll give you a hint and im not trying to be funny, but you should use your brakes. :banghead:
 
Well, set one of those cars up like I recommended, and go practice...
 
Yeah. Bought one cause it seemed like a good value. Bought another one because we loved the first one so much neither of us wanted to give up driving it. So we have his'n'hers.

F1 is being a smarta$$, but he is right. Brake hard in a straight line before turning in, then start accelerating as soon as the car has swung into the turn. It's all about getting out of the corner with as much speed as you can.

By the way, welcome to the forums!
 
Just kidding, you have to learn the track and the braking points before you even start messing with the cars.
 
Have you guys seen a viper with a turbocharger those things are beasts.
 
No, but I've seen a turbocharged Neon beat a stock Viper that was running slicks on the back...
:eek:
And Mods, I met Cliff Sebring last time I went to Cecil County. I'm also giving Bill Cutitta pointers on his 2.4 swap. Just to drop a few names...
:smilewink
 
Some people spend over $100,000 suping up there 4 bangers so they better beat a stock viper. but the must have been great to watch.
 
Ummm, well, no. That Neon could be duplicated for well under $15,000 including purchase price of the car. And hell, yeah it was fun to watch.
 
Go look around the 'net for some info about the new Dodge RST or something like that. It is a Neon with a Turbocharger on it. Still a 4 banger, but it is still relatively cheap. I have also noticed a lot of new models from across the board are coming with a 4 banger, turbo optional. Surprisingly it doesn't kill the gas mileage too bad :burnout:

Ah yes, just take a few laps around some tracks, you will begin to get the feel for it. Then go mod crazy if you like :p
 
Neon SRT. Neon + 2.4 Stratus engine + turbo + high-torque 5 speed = conservatively rated 205 hp, 210 torque in a 2900 pound car = 0-60 in 5.9 seconds.

They are listing at $19,995 and the waiting list starts in December.

:D
 
intakemainifold.jpg

turboclose.jpg

srt24turbo4.jpg

srt24turbo2.jpg
 
Originally posted by ModsAreLame
ok. heres the thing. i never really play on the curcuits so im not very good. but im trying to beat some tracks now but these cars are so fast that they suck on turns...get my drift?
As a caveat: I do all my testing at Midfield. As a result, Most of my cars have a bit of oversteer dialed in. But here are some pointers I picked up:
1. Lower the car to the bumpstops. take it out for a test drive. If you are shooting sparks raise the car 5-10 clicks and run again. repeat until you are not sparking at all or only infrequently.
2. If the car is understeering lower the front 2-5 clicks, or raise the back the same amount and run again. Repeat until you are happy with the handling.
3. For GT3. The front springs should usually be set heavier than the rears in a MR car. You want the front to dive a bit on braking so you know you're getting weight transfer and the front tires are getting grip for the turn. But not so much the rear breaks loose.
4. I usually set my stabilizers at 4 front and rear. The body roll and weight transfer are almost perfect with these settings.
5. Brake way before you think you should. First lap brake before the 100m sign then, push up your braking point, using the signs as reference points, with each lap until you find the perfect place to brake.
Hope this helps you get your laptimes down. :D
 
Originally posted by RGTmastachris
those engines look pretty phat
Now imagine it stuffed in a Neon, with a sticker under $20,000.
:D :D :D :D
 
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