How do I stop spinning out while turning?

Will try to help:

Options:

0. Turning on assists (ASM)

1. Be more light with your right foot.

2. Change tires

3. Search for tunings, or how to tune. Try adding ballast to the rear, or a spoiler if it's available. Suspension tuning should also something to look for.
 
Are you spinning going into, during or coming out of the corners?

Like Divinus said, be light with the accelerator while turning, I know that may seem obvious. Also try and do as much of your braking and accelerating with the front wheels pointed as straight as possible.

Quick setup tweaks that can all help to stabilize the car:

- Soften the rear spring rate and the damper compression (you will want to actually lower it on the "front" in the tuning menu, as they are still labelled back to front :grumpy:)

- Increase the rear ride height and/or decrease the front ride height.

- Increase the initial acceleration and torque on the LSD if you are spinning out of corners, increase the initial deceleration if you are spinning into corners.

- Increase the length of the first few gears if you are spinning while coming out of corners.

- Add more rear downforce (if you have a wing installed).

- Increase the rear Toe out (I think I've said this right. Move the slider to the right so that it is +0.xx, not -0.xx)

- Make sure the camber is at 0.0 on both the front and back, it is glitched in GT6.

- Increase the front brake bias and/or decrease the rear brake bias if you are spinning into the corners.


As a last resort use the aids that are availble, but try not to. Use them in this order, as they are the least harmful like this. Traction Control and ABS > then Active Steering > then ASM > and finally Skid Recovery Force, but try to avoid this. Skid Recovery Force helps a lot, but it is an unrealistic aid and can introduce bad driving habits, which will be a problem when you come to a time where you have to race with it deactivated.

Good luck.
 
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I've never heard or experienced this, please explain?

In the suspension tuning menu, the settings for the spring rate, compression and extension are reversed.

i.e If you set the front springs to maximum softness, it will actually make the rear springs as soft as possible. If you set the rear to be as hard as possible, it will actually make the front as hard as possible.

Ride height, Anti-roll bar, Camber and Toe work as they should though. It's been like this since GT5 at least, and they didn't bother fixing it for GT6.
 
Learn to drive a bit better? A bit of practice can sort anything, you don't need setups.
 
In the suspension tuning menu, the settings for the spring rate, compression and extension are reversed.

i.e If you set the front springs to maximum softness, it will actually make the rear springs as soft as possible. If you set the rear to be as hard as possible, it will actually make the front as hard as possible.

Ride height, Anti-roll bar, Camber and Toe work as they should though. It's been like this since GT5 at least, and they didn't bother fixing it for GT6.
Can you present some form of evidence to support this claim? I've never experienced anything like this at all, If I stiffen the rear springs/dampers on my car, I end up with stiffer rear springs/dampers. It was the same in gt5 if memory serves correctly.
 
I'm using racing soft and it starts spinning out right when I start turning. I could even stop accelerating and just glide and it still spins
 
I'm using racing soft and it starts spinning out right when I start turning. I could even stop accelerating and just glide and it still spins
Because you're using racing soft. Don't think sticky tyres will turn you into a great driver, you need to learn and practice first.
 
Google "Weight Transfer" and "Friction Circle". Weight transfer pertains to the shifting of the car's centre of gravity around the four tyres and how the grip is affected, and the friction circle is a circle representing the maximum grip a tyre can offer under lateral or longitudinal loads. It sounds as if, due to aggressive throttle/brake inputs you are shifting the weight balance off the rear tyres and upsetting the balance of what is an already front-heavy car. Brake in a straight line, gently get back on the throttle as you turn in to the corner and maintain as steady a throttle as you can till you straighten up for the exit, at which point you should smoothly apply full throttle, traction permitting.

Forget suspension tuning at this point, as you need a baseline to learn how to corner properly first. Tuning comes when you can drive well enough to recognise the shortcomings of the car. Don't attempt to use higher-grip tyres or tuning to mask your own shortcomings as a driver.
 
Google "Weight Transfer" and "Friction Circle". Weight transfer pertains to the shifting of the car's centre of gravity around the four tyres and how the grip is affected, and the friction circle is a circle representing the maximum grip a tyre can offer under lateral or longitudinal loads. It sounds as if, due to aggressive throttle/brake inputs you are shifting the weight balance off the rear tyres and upsetting the balance of what is an already front-heavy car. Brake in a straight line, gently get back on the throttle as you turn in to the corner and maintain as steady a throttle as you can till you straighten up for the exit, at which point you should smoothly apply full throttle, traction permitting.

Forget suspension tuning at this point, as you need a baseline to learn how to corner properly first. Tuning comes when you can drive well enough to recognise the shortcomings of the car. Don't attempt to use higher-grip tyres or tuning to mask your own shortcomings as a driver.
He's just using RS as compensation for his lack of skill as a driver. He just needs to bother learning to drive rather than thinking there's a cheap fix.
 
I'm using racing soft and it starts spinning out right when I start turning. I could even stop accelerating and just glide and it still spins
If you are running racing softs you need suspension tuned to use the tyres. The overall setup needs to be stiff, really stiff. If its not stiff enough the body will be wobbling around on top of the tyres and causing all kinds of weight transfer problems which can cause violent handling characteristic changes. Racing tyres don't really like sliding, once they lose grip they do so violently and at higher speeds.
Are you running any camber at all?

He's just using RS as compensation for his lack of skill as a driver. He just needs to bother learning to drive rather than thinking there's a cheap fix.

Easy mate, I understand what you mean but being aggressive about it isn't going to help anyone so just ease up a little, yeah?
 
He's just using RS as compensation for his lack of skill as a driver. He just needs to bother learning to drive rather than thinking there's a cheap fix.
A lot of people use racing tires on their favorite cars, doesn't mean they aren't skilled. The problem is (and I'm not saying he doesn't) some people don't know just how bad racing tires can screw with your car if it's not stiffened up enough, so some people are confused as to why these high-performance tires aren't really all that high performance.

I personally don't like race tires on road cars, they feel way too grippy for me, but that doesn't mean I'm some excellent driver: that just means I learned to be reasonably fast on sports and comforts. In turn, using race tires on road cars doesn't mean you're bad at the game, it just means you want to play the game your way. I bought the game to do whatever I wanted to in it. If PD made a "Take your car to the moon" mode, I would probably mess around with it, doesn't mean I'm going to criticize or praise others who either have different ideas of fun, or like it.

Although, I've probably wasted enough energy typing out a response when I can sum it up in one sentence: It's a game, play the way you want.
 
Easy mate, I understand what you mean but being aggressive about it isn't going to help anyone so just ease up a little, yeah?
I'm not being aggressive, i'd rather he understands that RS isn't a quick fix setting for everything. Practice, and not a setup, is the key here. A setup won't help inexperience behind the wheel.
 
Camber is working as it should in GT6?

I don't mean the camber itself is working, but that the front adjusts the front and the rear adjusts the rear. I don't ever use it though due to the bug. As far as I'm aware the sliders are not reversed here anyway, but maybe they are.



Can you present some form of evidence to support this claim? I've never experienced anything like this at all


https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=gt5+reversed+suspension+site:www.gtplanet.net
 
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Its seems unlikely to be true based on the evidence, I read through the gt6 post and the problems seem to be mostly related to camber rather than suspension. My own findings based on both handling and visual feedback suggest that adjusting the front springs/dampers directly affects the front springs/dampers as opposed to the rear. There is a possibility that you could get the opposite effect to what you were expecting but that would be down to the overall balance of the car and other related factors. Occasionally people describe things as a glitch or broken when it is simply a case of them misunderstanding the physics involved (RS tyres and ride height spring to mind), with a bit of thought and experimentation the issues can usually be attributed to other influencing factors. Its an interesting thought but I don't think there is enough evidence to support the claim.
 
Thought it was...

Ride height: backwards. GT5 and 6. Not sure personally but many of my club members believe so.
Spring rate: works
Comp: works
Ext: works
ARB: works
Camber: glitched/broken. Keep at 0.0.
Toe: works.

What I've found weird (and to totally confuse the dude). In this seasons Sunday Cup we've run lotuses old and new. Europa and now the 87 Esprit. Both cars I've started to tune as MRs but quickly deduced I'd be much more planted tuning as an FR.

I know the MRs have been an issue but.....

That's the problem with teaching to tune with GT. The system goes against recognised physics sometimes, and any passed on knowledge usually comes with a few caveats.
 
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Thought it was...

Ride height: backwards. GT5 and 6. Not sure personally but many of my club members believe so.
Spring rate: works
Comp: works
Ext: works
ARB: works
Camber: glitched/broken. Keep at 0.0.
Toe: works.

If not, lots of people have major placebo effect neurosis.
I can guarantee the ride height is perfectly fine. My Buick special has 120/55 ride height, and you can tell it. I know for fact camber is still glitched, and the otjers seem fine as well. Running stiff rear makes the rear stiff for me.
 
I can guarantee the ride height is perfectly fine. My Buick special has 120/55 ride height, and you can tell it. I know for fact camber is still glitched, and the otjers seem fine as well. Running stiff rear makes the rear stiff for me.
Nope, ride height is glitched. Extreme settings show the exact opposite of what they should in terms of performance.
 
Thought it was...

Ride height: backwards. GT5 and 6. Not sure personally but many of my club members believe so.
Spring rate: works
Comp: works
Ext: works
ARB: works
Camber: glitched/broken. Keep at 0.0.
Toe: works.

If not, lots of people have major placebo effect neurosis.

Yes, that's right.

In GT5, the springs were also reversed. PD attempted to fix the ride height problem in one of the updates to no effect so they just neutralised the effect of rake altogether.
 
Thought it was...

Ride height: backwards. GT5 and 6. Not sure personally but many of my club members believe so.
Spring rate: works
Comp: works
Ext: works
ARB: works
Camber: glitched/broken. Keep at 0.0.
Toe: works.

If not, lots of people have major placebo effect neurosis.
Ride height isn't strictly backwards, its just that it works the opposite way you'd expect it to. Its a weird physics thing that makes sense from a programming point of view but would be strongly affected by other factors in real life. Basically raising the front end of the car makes moves the centre of gravity towards the rear. Theres a thread about it in the tuning section somewhere if you want to know more.
 
Ride height isn't strictly backwards, its just that it works the opposite way you'd expect it to. Its a weird physics thing that makes sense from a programming point of view but would be strongly affected by other factors in real life. Basically raising the front end of the car makes moves the centre of gravity towards the rear. Theres a thread about it in the tuning section somewhere if you want to know more.
Exactly, that's how mine goes. Lowering the rear shifts the center of gravity back.

Not broken.
 
Exactly, that's how mine goes. Lowering the rear shifts the center of gravity back.

Not broken.
In terms of the way the physics shifts with it, it is technically broken.
 
In terms of the way the physics shifts with it, it is technically broken.
still finding no problems, i'ts doing what I expect it to do. Lowering the rear does nothing to the front, they are not backwards, and although they aren't broken, @DolHaus is right, there are other things that should affect it but don't in the game.

If you're spinning out while turning, driving a Veyron should fix the problem... They just don't turn at all. ;)
Take my wheelie tune, get it on two wheels, and it turns pretty good :lol:.
 
Playing devils advocate guys. I know all these conflicts. Straightaway 2 opposing comments.

Just pointing out, trying to teach someone new to tuning with GT is difficult.

Tell someone to read up on real world physics, fine. But invariably with GT you probably will have to say 'but in GT that doesn't work the same as RL'

I sometimes tune with one click increments cos I love the game and have patience to get any car in shape, and don't trust in game what I've been taught on the road. For someone casual players that want to get faster etc. that's a step too far. Especially when the game tells you something else. Confusing for a newbie I'd say
 
Just use your brakes more to slow you down going into the corner and brake in a straight line. 35-40mph feels slow but you will need to get down to this speed on some tight corners.

Using a game pad makes throttle control more difficult but be smooth and only slowly apply more power till you're out the other end of the turn and onto a straight.
 
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