How long would you expect a Fanatec Clubsport Brake Load Cell to last?

  • Thread starter kcheeb
  • 29 comments
  • 17,961 views

kcheeb

Premium
4,753
Canada
Alberta
kcheeb
kcheeb
Hey Hardware gurus.

I've just gone through my third load cell in a year and a half(ish) of owning the Clubsport Pedals. I just installed my last spare load cell.

I was wondering what others experiences were with the load cell life and if the load cells really do only last for 4 - 6 months.

I play GT5 4 - 5 times per week, an average of 2 hours per session.

Thanks in advance.
 
You're not alone... Were you at least lucky enough to get them as free replacements or did you have to pay the $17 shipping premium on each one?

The load cells were originally intended for use in bathroom scales and at least in pairs at that, if not that, sets of 4. The maximum load on a single load cell is 50kg. It's hard to say how often it's pressed this hard as it would depend a lot on the individual. However, the metal was probably not intended to be bent at such regular intervals. It would be the equivalent of stepping on your bathroom scale repeatedly for hours.

Edit: (just to add)
If each of your load cells has lasted about the same amount of time, you can expect them to continue to last the same amount of time. It's mostly a function of how the user is using them. (not that you have done anything wrong)
 
Last edited:
You're not alone... Were you at least lucky enough to get them as free replacements or did you have to pay the $17 shipping premium on each one?

The first one was a free replacement. Paid through the nose for the next two. Gotta wonder when shipping is more than the product ...

The load cells were originally intended for use in bathroom scales and at least in pairs at that, if not that, sets of 4. The maximum load on a single load cell is 50kg. It's hard to say how often it's pressed this hard as it would depend a lot on the individual. However, the metal was probably not intended to be bent at such regular intervals. It would be the equivalent of stepping on your bathroom scale repeatedly for hours.

50 kg, that's not very high for a brake pedal, amazing.

Edit: (just to add)
If each of your load cells has lasted about the same amount of time, you can expect them to continue to last the same amount of time. It's mostly a function of how the user is using them. (not that you have done anything wrong)

I'd say roughly, except the original part, it failed within a month. If I didn't like the CSR-E I have so much, I'd be seriously considering switching to another brand.

Thanks for the feedback 👍
 
No problem, Anytime. ;)

I've got nothing to gain or lose from telling you what I've seen over the years... I may as well be honest about it.

The reason why 50kg is usually "ok" is that it's also rated for a safe overload of 150% which is 75kg or roughly 165 pounds. However, this probably wasn't measured or intended to happen repeatedly like on a road course involving a lot of heavy braking. Total failure is apparently at 200%, so 100kg. Like I said though, there are usually 2 or 4 in most bathroom scales.
 
Yeah, spreading the load across 4 cells, you wouldn't see 400 KG often.

Happy 200th post by the way :)
 
So if we switched to "No ABS" in SNAIL your load cell would last longer as you won't be "pedal mashing" any more :)

Seriously though, I think is one of the reason's the load cells go so quickly, is that we stomp the pedal in GT5. iRacing forces you to modulate, which will probably keep the cell around much longer.
 
I was wondering what others experiences were with the load cell life and if the load cells really do only last for 4 - 6 months.

I play GT5 4 - 5 times per week, an average of 2 hours per session.

Thanks in advance.

I got about 13 months out of mine before it failed using CSP V.1s at about same frequency as you.

I was promptly provided with a replacement. I also have a couple of spares I purchased along with other items to minimize shipping costs. I totally agree that their shipping fees for stand-alone/small quantities of lightweight items are way steep.

The load cells were originally intended for use in bathroom scales and at least in pairs at that, if not that, sets of 4. The maximum load on a single load cell is 50kg.

LOL, printer motors and bathroom scales, what will be divulged next? I am now scared to ask where the vibration motors come from...

-------------------------------------------

Happy 200th post by the way :)

Scary, some people actually do keep count.

-------------------------------------------

So if we switched to "No ABS" in SNAIL your load cell would last longer as you won't be "pedal mashing" any more :)

Seriously though, I think is one of the reason's the load cells go so quickly, is that we stomp the pedal in GT5. iRacing forces you to modulate, which will probably keep the cell around much longer.

That might be why mine lasted so long, No ABS here, have to pussy foot on the brakes most of the time.

Come to think of it, my Load Cell decided to give up the ghost when I had been doing a lot of X10 events, even with no ABS sometimes you really have to mash down more than in other cars.
 
Mine is going on 2+years.

It all depends on where you have your sensitivity set on the pedal's dial. If you run it set on low sensitivity (6-10) that requires you apply a lot of force to get full brake pressure. I've always run mine in the 3-4 range on the dial
 
Mine is going on 2+years.

It all depends on where you have your sensitivity set on the pedal's dial. If you run it set on low sensitivity (6-10) that requires you apply a lot of force to get full brake pressure. I've always run mine in the 3-4 range on the dial

Hmmm, I'll have to check that. I thought I'd been running it fairly high, not sure of the numbers though.
 
Mine is going on 2+years.

It all depends on where you have your sensitivity set on the pedal's dial. If you run it set on low sensitivity (6-10) that requires you apply a lot of force to get full brake pressure. I've always run mine in the 3-4 range on the dial

Mine is going on +-13 months, and is holding up like a champ. Sonac taught me how to set the cell for the right pressure sensitivity, while not needing to be mashed to achieve proper braking. Also, every few months, take the brake apart, and lube the interior foam & metal piece, which leads me to my next point.

Part of the issue could also be your foam piece inside the brake has deteriorated, and is holding the interior metal bar constantly against the cell. Thus making it seem like the load-cell is the culprit. Of course, when you replace the cell, you will clean and likely lubricate the parts again, until it happens again. It is simple maintenance that can keep this from re-occurring. It just takes a little time and effort outside the norm.
 
Last edited:
Part of the issue could also be your foam piece inside the brake has deteriorated, and is holding the interior metal bar constantly against the cell. Thus making it seem like the load-cell is the culprit. Of course, when you replace the cell, you will clean and likely lubricate the parts again, until it happens again. It is simple maintenance that can keep this from re-occurring. It just takes a little time and effort outside the norm.

Sorry but this sounds good but is baloney.

The load cell breaks from repeated forces of braking. For maximum life, turn the dial all the way to the right (clockwise) to minimize pedal force for full braking. If you can drive with it like that, you will get maximum life out of the load cell. As you turn it to the left (counter-clockwise) you increase pedal force and reduce life. Also, set the ABS on the wheel so that the pedal vibrates just before lockup and don't put more force on the pedal than that.
Less force = more life.

And the bottom line is that you should consider the load cell like brake pads on your real car. They are a consumable, buy spares BEFORE you need them.

I've broken a number of them. Arrows show cracks.

4LoadCellwitharrows.jpg
 
All I have to say is that my load-cell has lasted the test of time, and is still great with some routine maintenance & cleaning on the pedals. I have a spare cell sitting here, and can say it should remain a spare for quite some time to come. Those cracks are from too much pressure required for braking, plain and simple. You will never need that much force to brake, if so, then the user is not calibrating & using properly.

I have my gripes with Fanatec, believe you and me, but the CSP's are the mainstay of their line. Just take some time to learn the proper maintenance & cleaning routines, and the load-cell WILL last you. You only get out of something what YOU are willing to put into it, if you simply give up, oh well.

When you calibrate the pedal, don't put it to the max. Set YOUR pressure where YOU want it to be. Most think put the pedal to the metal to get the max pressure. That is false, set it to YOUR liking, and it will work & last. It IS that easy, you just need some patience & understanding the ins and outs of the pedals. It took me almost 5 months to have everything set properly.
 
Last edited:
Mine is going on 2+years.

It all depends on where you have your sensitivity set on the pedal's dial. If you run it set on low sensitivity (6-10) that requires you apply a lot of force to get full brake pressure. I've always run mine in the 3-4 range on the dial

Same here had the clubsports since pre 911 turbo s wheel. I always use the brake pressure lockup function as well.
 
when i first received my pedal set i had several problems during the first month.
one of them was the load cell cracking.
after receiving a new load cell i decided to alleviate the problem by raising the pedal pivot pin by one position - doing so will reduce the maximum pressure that is applyed to the cell housing.
in doing so the pedal travel is reduced so then i shortened the push pin by 10mm. to restore the pedal travel.
as basher said earlier the load cell has a rating of 50kg ( 110 lbs ) and with the pedal in its original configuration considering the pedal leverage the pressure applyed is closer to 80kg ( 176lbs ) .
by raising the pivot pin positon the atual pressure that the cell receives is about 20% less. after this mod i simply go into the game settings to adjust the ingame brake pressure to my liking.
as far as lubrication in the beginning i used a moly based lube and since then check it once a year and the results are no wear on the p.u. foam - no binding.
it will be three years in december with absolutely no problems with the pedals
 
The load cell breaks from repeated forces of braking. For maximum life, turn the dial all the way to the right (clockwise) to minimize pedal force for full braking. If you can drive with it like that, you will get maximum life out of the load cell. As you turn it to the left (counter-clockwise) you increase pedal force and reduce life. Also, set the ABS on the wheel so that the pedal vibrates just before lockup and don't put more force on the pedal than that.
Less force = more life.

And the bottom line is that you should consider the load cell like brake pads on your real car. They are a consumable, buy spares BEFORE you need them.

I've broken a number of them. Arrows show cracks.

I forgot to add that to my post, the Load Cell Dial Setting is another reason I probably got about 13 months out of mine, I have the dial set between 1 & 2 8 & 9 using this on my CSP V.1s, with no ABS, and vibration set as described by OlderRacer 1944.

EDIT: According to novadave's post on the following page my theory for my Load Cell's 13 month life span has been blown out of the sky.

My load cell has actually been set between 8 & 9 because it seems as if the CSP Potentiometer Dial's number scale I have been using (below) is the reverse orientation of the one novadave uses and the one Fanatec affixes to the CSP V.2s.

Clubsport_Mod_Template-final.jpg

I agree that they are a consumable item, my complaint is the astronomical shipping fee Fanatec charges in the event a spare Load Cell is your only purchase.

I circumvented this by adding a couple of spares to a larger order I was placing. But Fanatec should really evaluate their shipping fees for standalone/small purchases of Load Cells, and shift/pedal cables for that matter.


after receiving a new load cell i decided to alleviate the problem by raising the pedal pivot pin by one position - doing so will reduce the maximum pressure that is applyed to the cell housing.
in doing so the pedal travel is reduced so then i shortened the push pin by 10mm. to restore the pedal travel.
as basher said earlier the load cell has a rating of 50kg ( 110 lbs ) and with the pedal in its original configuration considering the pedal leverage the pressure applyed is closer to 80kg ( 176lbs ) .
by raising the pivot pin positon the atual pressure that the cell receives is about 20% less.

Thanks for the tip, will try that on mine, I have the CSP V.1 tuning kit as well with the alternate rods and PU foams.
 
Last edited:
novadave View Post
after receiving a new load cell i decided to alleviate the problem by raising the pedal pivot pin by one position - doing so will reduce the maximum pressure that is applyed to the cell housing.
in doing so the pedal travel is reduced so then i shortened the push pin by 10mm. to restore the pedal travel.
as basher said earlier the load cell has a rating of 50kg ( 110 lbs ) and with the pedal in its original configuration considering the pedal leverage the pressure applyed is closer to 80kg ( 176lbs ) .
by raising the pivot pin positon the atual pressure that the cell receives is about 20% less.


Gotta tell you that this makes no sense either.

First a few definitions:

Full Brake Force = The force needed to lock up the wheels in a moving car. In the game it's the red line in the tuning setup showing a full red line.

Brake Pressure = In the game it changes the relationship between how hard you press on the brake pedal and when you see a full red line (and lock up the wheels) with a fixed potentiometer setting.

The force the load cell needs to output "full brake force" does not change by changing the pivot point of the brake pedal mechanism. That force is determined by the design of the load cell and the potentiometer setting, period. Changing the pivot point of the pedal, given a fixed potentiometer setting, will change the force on the brake pedal relative to a given output of the load cell.

But for the life of the load cell, all that matters is how much force it sees and how many times it sees that force.

If you want to reduce the force the load cell see's you just turn the adjustment potentiometer all the way the the right (clockwise) OR to reduce it further you can in the game settings increase the "brake pressure" in the tuning setup for each car. As you increase the "brake pressure" in the game, you lessen the physical force you need to apply to the brake pedal to get full braking and thus reduce the physical force applied to the load cell.

200% brake pressure takes half the pedal force of 100% brake pressure to get the same full braking. And of course as you do this you keep making the brake pedal more and more sensitive to the force you apply and harder to modulate.
 
Last edited:
novadave View Post
after receiving a new load cell i decided to alleviate the problem by raising the pedal pivot pin by one position - doing so will reduce the maximum pressure that is applyed to the cell housing.
in doing so the pedal travel is reduced so then i shortened the push pin by 10mm. to restore the pedal travel.
as basher said earlier the load cell has a rating of 50kg ( 110 lbs ) and with the pedal in its original configuration considering the pedal leverage the pressure applyed is closer to 80kg ( 176lbs ) .
by raising the pivot pin positon the atual pressure that the cell receives is about 20% less.


Gotta tell you that this makes no sense either.

First a few definitions:

Full Brake Force = The force needed to lock up the wheels in a moving car. In the game it's the red line in the tuning setup showing a full red line.

Brake Pressure = In the game it changes the relationship between how hard you press on the brake pedal and when you see a full red line (and lock up the wheels) with a fixed potentiometer setting.

The force the load cell needs to output "full brake force" does not change by changing the pivot point of the brake pedal mechanism. That force is determined by the design of the load cell and the potentiometer setting, period. Changing the pivot point of the pedal, given a fixed potentiometer setting, will change the force on the brake pedal relative to a given output of the load cell.

But for the life of the load cell, all that matters is how much force it sees and how many times it sees that force.

If you want to reduce the force the load cell see's you just turn the adjustment potentiometer all the way the the right (clockwise) OR to reduce it further you can in the game settings increase the "brake pressure" in the tuning setup for each car. As you increase the "brake pressure" in the game, you lessen the physical force you need to apply to the brake pedal to get full braking and thus reduce the physical force applied to the load cell.

200% brake pressure takes half the pedal force of 100% brake pressure to get the same full braking. And of course as you do this you keep making the brake pedal more and more sensitive to the force you apply and harder to modulate.

Hey Older
when i speak of force i am speaking of mechanical force - the force that we as a user apply to the pedal.
if you look at how the pedal is designed you can see that there is a leverage effect that is being applyed to the load cell.
when we press the pedal with our foot we are actually creating pressure and this pressure is processed by muscle memory.
if you could install a pressure reading device between your foot and the pedal and press you would see that you are using your leg muscle to very accurately apply the same pressure most of the time.
by raising the pivot pin this would require more leg effort to get the same pressure to the load cell.
follow me so far ?.
now instead of pressing down harder on the pedal just continue applying the same muscle memory force and instead go into the game settings and increase the brake sensitivity and turn the potentiometer on the pedals to the max.
the end result is the the same brake application in the game but with less mechanical pressure at the load cell.
with less mechanical pressure = less stress directly on the load cell.
this has worked great for me and many others for three years now.
it is just simple engineering.💡
 
Thanks for all the info gang, much appreciated 👍

Learned a lot and actually put it to use last night. Turned the dial down to zero and paid a lot of attention to the vibrate. Realized I was pressing waaayy too hard on the brake.

Hopefully this extends the life, I will however be ordering a couple of spares ;)

Thanks again!
 
My last point to the calibration is this: Press the pedal down to where YOU want it to meet its maximum brake force. This way, you are not putting full pressure on the load-cell to achieve 100% braking. I had to do mine about +-5 times in iRacing to have it set just right, and it feels very natural to a real car. With it set to so, I should not need to replace my load-cell for quite some time.

Again, just a tip that worked for me. It likely will not work, nor feel right for all. However, it will increase the life of your load-cell.
 
Thanks for all the info gang, much appreciated 👍

Learned a lot and actually put it to use last night. Turned the dial down to zero and paid a lot of attention to the vibrate. Realized I was pressing waaayy too hard on the brake.

Hopefully this extends the life, I will however be ordering a couple of spares ;)

Thanks again!

in my case i turned it up !
my number template rises as the dial is turned clockwise.
higher number = more brake pressure.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/album.php?albumid=4800&pictureid=52704
 
Last edited:
in my case i turned it up !
my number template rises as the dial is turned clockwise.
higher number = more brake pressure.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/album.php?albumid=4800&pictureid=52704

I guess I should edit my earlier post from 1 & 2 to 8 & 9, shot my argument right out of the sky, LOL!

So did you reverse the number scale orientation from the the template graphic posted on the GTP Potentiometer Dial thread to match the one's on CSP V.2's?
If so, shouldn't the arrow and force labels orientation be reversed as well (no criticism intended)? If so, Photoshop here I come.
I see you also omitted the hex pattern for the dial knob.
:dopey:

I see you reversed the number scale orientation from the the template graphic posted on the GTP Potentiometer Dial thread.

That is the one I have been using on my CSP V.1s, but its reverse of what Fanatec has affixed to the CSP V.2s that I have recently received.



CSP Potentiometer Dial Number Scale (GTP Potentiometer Dial Thread)

Clubsport_Mod_Template-final.jpg



CSP Potentiometer Dial Number Scale (novadave)

user202968_pic52704_1351783232.jpg



CSP Potentiometer Dial Number Scale (CSP V.2s)

CSP-V2-Dial.jpg


EDIT: I went ahead and reversed the orientation of the arrow and load labels on novadave's Potentiometer graphic and added back the hex pattern via PhotoShop for you guys with CSP V.1s.

Should make the load cell discussion a bit clearer if everyone has the same reference point regarding Potentiometer dial.

CSP Potentiometer Dial Number Scale (UPDATED)


POTENTIOMETER.jpg


 
Last edited:
I didn't, but having my dial turned all the way to the left has made me much lighter on the brake pedal :lol:

I'll have to experiment some tomorrow, thanks for posting back 👍
 
I guess I should edit my earlier post from 1 & 2 to 8 & 9, shot my argument right out of the sky, LOL!

So did you reverse the number scale orientation from the the template graphic posted on the GTP Potentiometer Dial thread to match the one's on CSP V.2's?
I see you also omitted the hex pattern for the dial knob.

CSP Potentiometer Dial Number Scale (GTP Potentiometer Dial Thread)

Clubsport_Mod_Template-final.jpg


CSP Potentiometer Dial Number Scale (novadave)

user202968_pic52704_1351783232.jpg


CSP Potentiometer Dial Number Scale (CSP V.2s)

CSP-V2-Dial.jpg

Hey Jogo
i modified the logo about two years ago to my liking since it was only logical that the numbers should scale up to match the rise in voltage from the pot.
and did you notice that i had removed the pot from the pedals and installed it on my wheel deck so that i had quick access while testing during a race.💡
i did not bother with the arrow as i was only interested in the numbers
the original one was on the fanatec forum way back and i modded it to my taste.
 
Last edited:
Hey Jogo
i modified the logo about two years ago to my liking since it was only logical that the numbers should scale up to match the rise in voltage from the pot.
and did you notice that i had removed the pot from the pedals and installed it on my wheel deck so that i had quick access while testing during a race.💡
i did not bother with the arrow as i was only interested in the numbers
the original one was on the fanatec forum way back and i modded it to my taste.

No criticism was intended in anyway.

I did not notice that you had relocated the pot.

Was just trying to sort out the reverse orientation of the dial.

I have since edited the content of my previous post, and provided an updated version of your graphic.

Also sent you a PM.
 
No criticism was intended in anyway.

I did not notice that you had relocated the pot.

Was just trying to sort out the reverse orientation of the dial.

I have since edited the content of my previous post, and provided an updated version of your graphic.

Also sent you a PM.

Good Job

👍👍
 
CSP V.1 Potentiometer Dial Number Scale (UPDATED)


(Original template courtesy of Fanatec Forums, refined by Madmurdock, later updated by novadave, then by me.)

Generic

POTENTIOMETER.jpg


CSR/CSR E Themed

POTENTIOMETER_FORZA.jpg


GT3 RS Themed

POTENTIOMETER_GT3RS.jpg


Still a bit rough, but they print out nicely, especially on photo paper.

Dead_Pedal_zpsd3ff476d.jpg


 
Last edited:
Back