How to: No ABS

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I'm not sure if I allucinate or not, but I usually race with abs to one and there was that breaking test in licence for 1000m, where I couldnt finish it (was my last one to get all gold) then I turned abs off and suddently I was faster off the line (yes not at braking but on acceleration) was weird. I manage to finish it on 3rd try too without abs.

Also I tried to run without abs after that, but seriously it's ok for 90% of my times but when I'm stressed out or need to do a late breaking it's really too hard too keep the car on track without abs.
 
I use G25 and I play with ABS off all the time. Most of the times I can't be bothered playing with brake bias, so it is at 5/5 99% of time.

My stock Zonda R lap around Nordschleife was with 5/5 brake bias, no ABS or any other aids. Same as my other videos in my You Tube channel (see my signature).

My tip: practice, practice, practice!

When I switched ABS off for the first time in GT5 I could hardly do couple of corners. Now I don't even think about. In powerful cars you have to be gentle with accelerator, same goes for brakes. DOn't slam on it, be gentle.
 
I found Solution.. I drive with all the aids turned OFF ,ABS also, its hard but what I did was adjust the breaking force and the breaks worked perfect. I was practicing with the Nissan GT-R GT500 Stealth car and with the ABs off for a few days now and its a tough one, but I adjusted the breaking force for the from break to 1 and the back break to 2. After that it drove like a charm. Usually with ABS at 1 I normally go up to 260Kkm/h but after the adjustments I going up to 280-295km/h with ease!..try it out guys
 
i try to drive without abs at any time. it toke some time but i got used to it and was able to drive faster. i found out that if you drive close to the topspeed and brake you can push it almost to the bottom (driving with pedals) but when the speed decents you have to led go a bit and when you reach the speed needed to the corner you only use a 1/4 of the braking force you used when you was braking at high speed. when you brake in, lets say 2. gear you only touch the braking pedal but when you are in 6th gear you almost press it to the bottom
 
A) Learn how to not press the brake pedal/button/trigger all the way

B) Turn down the brake pressure in game or adjust brake balance (SURELY PD added that as a tuning option...right?)

Done.
 
I don´t understand, why some people say it helps to turn the brake balance down to 3 or 2. Has anyone noticed that the braking distance increases dramatically?

5/5 is standard for every car because it is the middle way of everything possible. A too strong brake bias would mean it is set to 9 or 10.

In real life, you can push the brake pedal half the complete way to get a strong or even full brake force.

In GT5 you get the full brake force after 2cm of the pedal way, when the bias is set to 5/5. That means the Logitech pedal (or whatever manufacturer) is not calibrated right and not that the game has wrong car settings.

I noticed, that is comes more to real life, when you set the ABS to 1, because at full pedal touch your wheels react better than anything you can do without ABS and lowering the bias.

ABS 1 = realistic behaviour of the car even at 5/5, realistic brake ways
ABS 0 = too fast locking wheels, too less way of pedal movement, unrealistic behaviour of brake ways and bias.
 
Big Ron
I don´t understand, why some people say it helps to turn the brake balance down to 3 or 2. Has anyone noticed that the braking distance increases dramatically?

5/5 is standard for every car because it is the middle way of everything possible. A too strong brake bias would mean it is set to 9 or 10.

In real life, you can push the brake pedal half the complete way to get a strong or even full brake force.

In GT5 you get the full brake force after 2cm of the pedal way, when the bias is set to 5/5. That means the Logitech pedal (or whatever manufacturer) is not calibrated right and not that the game has wrong car settings.

I noticed, that is comes more to real life, when you set the ABS to 1, because at full pedal touch your wheels react better than anything you can do without ABS and lowering the bias.

ABS 1 = realistic behaviour of the car even at 5/5, realistic brake ways
ABS 0 = too fast locking wheels, too less way of pedal movement, unrealistic behaviour of brake ways and bias.
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Not quite, more like ABS 1 = general braking help and not abs.

And why would you ever need to stomp on the brake pedal all the way down..
 
Spagetti69
Running with abs set to 0 makes you accelerate faster.
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Pretty sure you are wrong about that.:crazy: Not sure if you were joke or something, but there were a couple of licence tests which would have been a markable difference if that were the case. IA-2 for example is so much easier using ABS. If what you were saying is true that most certainly wouldn't be the case given the nature of the 25 second straight
 
Boris Lozac
Not quite, more like ABS 1 = general braking help and not abs.
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ABS does not react more like a driving aid but also like a real ABS. And as it is, ABS is a driving aid, also in real life ;)

And why would you ever need to stomp on the brake pedal all the way down..
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Did you ever drive a car? When you are braking, you can move the pedal more than 2cm down

Full brake force is reached at 1/2 or 2/3 of the full pedal way and not at 0.85/1
 
Big Ron
And as it is, ABS is a driving aid, also in real life ;)
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I know it is.. :) but the fact that you can 'enable' it just like that even on the oldtimers, makes me think it's not working quite like the real one, but more like some stability help or something..


Big Ron
Did you ever drive a car? When you are braking, you can move the pedal more than 2cm down

Full brake force is reached at 1/2 or 2/3 of the full pedal way and not at 0.85/1
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C'mon, i can't lock up the wheels half way down the pedal with abs off, but only if i lower the brake bias numbers and put more on the front brakes.
 
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Big Ron
I don´t understand, why some people say it helps to turn the brake balance down to 3 or 2. Has anyone noticed that the braking distance increases dramatically?
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In most cars in the game you can lock all four brakes at 3/2 or 4/2. If you're locking the brakes (or activating the ABS) you're braking as hard as possible and no, braking distances do not increase in that situation. Any more braking force than is required to lock the wheels just makes more of the pedal travel useless.

In GT5 you get the full brake force after 2cm of the pedal way, when the bias is set to 5/5. That means the Logitech pedal (or whatever manufacturer) is not calibrated right and not that the game has wrong car settings.
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The DFGT was developed by Logitech and PD together and was released two years before GT5. The game calibrates the pedals each time you run the game. If by "full brake force" you mean the bar is full then you simply haven't pressed the pedal all the way down to calibrate it. If by "full brake force" you mean "enough to lock the wheels" then that is the fault of the game's default brake setup.

The 5/5 brake balance is unrealistic and wrong. If you turn off ABS the rears will often lock first with the balance set to 5/5. That is totally unrealistic. Cars - road or race - are set up to lock the fronts first.
 
Boris Lozac
I know it is.. :) but the fact that you can 'enable' it just like that even on the oldtimers, makes me think it's not working quite like the real one, but more like some stability help or something..
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In theory, with some customisation you can put ABS on every car, even on oldtimers. In GT5, ABS is just a brake helper, not a stability control.

Many people think, it is also a stability control, because in NASCAR events, where TSC is activated but locked, ABS 0 also deactivates TSC.

But on road courses you always can seperate TSC and ABS and each works for itself.

C'mon, i can't lock up the wheels half way down the pedal with abs off, but only if i lower the brake bias numbers and put more on the front brakes.
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Yeah, I did that, too in first tries and it worked well. But my braking way was much longer than normal and differed from the original car´s behaviour.
 
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The tyre lock depends on the grip of the car... For example if you brake a car with Sports hard i will lock the tyres more easily that if it had Racing hards.

Another thing, In my experience i use a G25 an just detune the brake pressure to 2/1 or 3/2 ore eaven 4/3 depending on the type of car and tyres i'm using..(note that some cars brake harder than others)

The ABS problem happen with the mayority of pedals cause they doesn't use a "potentiometer" to manage the brake signals...
The only pedals y know that eliminates the Non ABS issue are the "Fanatec Club Sport" 👍

digitalic
Can somebody please conform that with ABS set to off that acceleration is quicker in the game?
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No, acceleration is not affected in any means by the ABS....
 
Thats 100% NOT true!

The only reason why people are quicker with assists at a lower setting is TCS, and ASM combromise the handling when set too high, as in they cut in before the car is anywhere near the limit of grip. Quite what ABS brakes have to do with acceleration i dont know. Not sure where people are getting this crazy idea from, but its complete rubbish.
 
I've found that only race cars are drivable with the ABS off. Road cars need the ABS at 1. Which I guess is sort of realistic since many race series don't allow ABS, and most road cars come with ABS standard.
 
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Mr. Boy
I've found that only race cars are drivable with the ABS off. Road cars need the ABS at 1. Which I guess is sort of realistic since many race series don't allow ABS, and most road cars come with ABS standard.
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Yes.. Or maby cause the racing cars have a lot of stopping power...more grip and less weight.
But try to brake hard in a race car with confort tyres...that's were the Brake Balance Control comes in andy
 
You can access the brake balance on track with the RA menu function - needs to be assigned with a control pad, but it's set to the big red dial, enter button and +/- buttons on the DFGT

Once set, the game will remeber the settings for that car.
Pretty handy for some license tests and challanges, since you can't tune the car. But you need to redo it at every attempt...

Just hit the brakes and observe the tyre meter, you want the fronts to lock a fraction before the rears do. Otherwise the car will flip on braking, like pulling a handbrake. So the rear brakes should always be lower than the front.
You also want the brakes to lock at low speed, under 50kph and not at high speed. If the brakes never lock up then your not maximising your brake force.
Just ease off the brakes as the car slows down

Start with 3:1 for most streetcars with non racing tyres and work up.

Like I said, if you use a wheel putting a squash ball, or half of one tight under the brake pedal arm will do wonders for feel. On a DFGT you don't even need to open the pedals base to put it in, just squeeze it inside the pedal well.
Then just stand on the pedal as hard as you can to calibrate the range of motion.
After that, just braking with pressure, it really does feel like a real brake pedal 👍
With the squash ball in place, you never feel the need to mash the pedal all the way down, as it provides plenty of feedback and resistance.

And the ABS definitely has some stability help from my tests.
With ABS off the rear end of the car will move about under brakes or off throttling, which makes braking with throttle off in turns a bit tricky.
Turn ABS on and you can mash the pedal and the car's balance never seems to get upset
 
sukerkin
Ah, I understand 👍. Aye, I agree, TCS on the lower HP 'normal world' type cars is generally un-necessary and, once you know how to modulate inputs a bit, can actually make cars go slower rather than helping :).
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There's quite a few 'normal world' cars with TCS and the drivers don't even know, perhaps yours.
Some cars have TCS, and a button to turn it off, that doesn't actually fully turn it off, but just desensitizes it.
I knew of a 2001 Ford Focus with 130hp that had permanent TCS, you just couldn't tell because it didn't have the power to start spinning the sheels without loads of water or some frozen stuff.
 
I drive with ABS at 1. Without ABS just feels wrong, and mind you that I have been an occasional GTR2, GT legends, race07+ everything and LFS player. I've also played RBR. All games without any assists.
But in GT5 the brakes just feel wrong without ABS@ 1.
Like in GTR2 or any game. If the fronts locked up early: change brake bias more to the rear until you found a good solution. And during the way you learned to operate the brakes, but they -never- felt wrong,.
In GT5 the brake bias menu is somehwere far away in the setup screen, takes long until you finally are there. So I haven't been bothered by those yet, it just takes too long to change it. But it's also that the brakes just feel plain wrong, while on a stock street car, the brake bias should be set up nicely already at a 70/30 or 65/35 rating or so. I don't understand why the people at PD didn't achieve such a thing and make the brake bias changer as an upgrade in the tuning section..

I'm a G25 user..
 
Osr20_L
Yes.. Or maby cause the racing cars have a lot of stopping power...more grip and less weight.
But try to brake hard in a race car with confort tyres...that's were the Brake Balance Control comes in andy
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Apparently brake bias is set up wrong, and in street cars the braking power is far too high.
 
Osr20_L
...
The only pedals y know that eliminates the Non ABS issue are the "Fanatec Club Sport" 👍
.....
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This is false as I have used both CSP and G27 pedals in GT5 and can brake the same with both. For both pedals I still had to adjust the brake bias in order to keep locking up the back wheels especially MR cars.
It's the same in Fm3 where some of the top times were done with those using X360 wireless wheel ( with crappy pedals yet can use a sponge to add brake resistance) which also had touchy brakes.
Don't misunderstand me CSP are a nice set of pedals for the price.
 
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digitalic
Can somebody please conform that with ABS set to off that acceleration is quicker in the game?
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Hmm lot's of disbelievers I see.

Go to the Jeff Gordon Nascar school.
Head for the advanced event.
Try the third event, titled "last two laps Daytona".

Have abs set to 1 and try to keep up with the "Lowes" car. Repeat this a number of times. You will notice it is diffecult to keep up and to squeeze past the right side of the " Energizer " car. You wil, however get a good sense of the acceleration of your car.

Now set abs to 0.

Repeat the above. Try to keep up with "Lowes" by overtaking "energizer" on the right.
You will breeze past.

Anyone struggling to Gold the Nascar, try with abs set to 0. It helps that you don't need to use brakes on these events rarely.

For best results, use a wheel.
 

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