How to: tame a RWD that keep losing rear traction??

3,884
United Kingdom
Druids Bend
Z4E_Midnight85
Hi all, I've been trying to tune a few rear wheel drive cars to take on Tokyo WTC600 (among other races) and I'm having some difficulties in keeping them all from breaking traction in the long, fast turns. Obviously with the slower, tighter turns like hairpins you need to be a bit more cautious on the throttle, but a full throttle turn at 100mph shouldn't whip the tail end around...

So, what are the best ways to reliably control this?

For reference, I've been generally using wide body with wide wheels and offset, plus all the aero bits dialled up to max in a bid to improve overall handling ability.

Starting with the default settings for Fully Customizable Suspension, do I need to increase/reduce rear end spring rate? Do I look at ride height front/rear and increase/reduce rake? Do I have to flatten the rear camber? Do the differential settings make much of a difference at high speed?

I know this is a bit of an open-ended question, but I'm hoping there are some fundamentals to focus on to get reliable handling settings. Thanks in advance!!
 
345
United States
United States
This is a great guide:


 
3,884
United Kingdom
Druids Bend
Z4E_Midnight85
This is a great guide:


Awesome, thank you! I'll watch some videos! :cheers:
 
197
England
Oxfordshire
Bread_45
At 100mph aero will definitely be having an effect, try max rear wing and gradually lower front wing, this biases towards rear grip.

Check you're not bottoming out with all the aero, try raising both ride heights a little and stiffening springs. If you don't suddenly gain grip them you were probably ok to begin with, and can try other adjustments.

Mechanically there are a few adjustments. On some cars, one will help massively but the others won't. On others they all play a part. And some cars are just pigs and won't play nice even with all combinations.
I) lower rear nat freq and/or dampers. Don't be afraid to try very low dampers. If the car loses it the instant you touch the throttle, dampers can help tune these transient moments.
II) rear camber, try adding a little rear camber, this helps mid corner and early exit grip... But can lose you grip as the exit progresses. Too much camber and the car will suck overall. Rear toe in should also help but I've found it isn't working as well for me as on previous GT games.
III) LSD accel. Try lowering this, the LSD is a powerful tuning tool. Use the telemetry app to check for inner wheel spin, and you can also feel this via the controller rumble. You want some inner wheel spin to tame the exit behaviour, it acts like a poor man's traction control. If both wheels always spin together then you have too much accel setting and the rear axle is staying locked, like what drifters use. Also try raising initial torque so it is closer to the accel setting, this makes the diff more predictable when switching to throttle, but may make you understeer in tight corners.

If you want to, post a setup and I'm happy to try it out and might be able to tame it.
 
1,684
England
A field in England
As a bit of a cop-out you can try max rear downforce and minimum front, makes the rear end super stable on higher speed corners, and also reduces you PP rating, allowing you to run more power or less weight.
 
3,884
United Kingdom
Druids Bend
Z4E_Midnight85
At 100mph aero will definitely be having an effect, try max rear wing and gradually lower front wing, this biases towards rear grip.

Check you're not bottoming out with all the aero, try raising both ride heights a little and stiffening springs. If you don't suddenly gain grip them you were probably ok to begin with, and can try other adjustments.

Mechanically there are a few adjustments. On some cars, one will help massively but the others won't. On others they all play a part. And some cars are just pigs and won't play nice even with all combinations.
I) lower rear nat freq and/or dampers. Don't be afraid to try very low dampers. If the car loses it the instant you touch the throttle, dampers can help tune these transient moments.
II) rear camber, try adding a little rear camber, this helps mid corner and early exit grip... But can lose you grip as the exit progresses. Too much camber and the car will suck overall. Rear toe in should also help but I've found it isn't working as well for me as on previous GT games.
III) LSD accel. Try lowering this, the LSD is a powerful tuning tool. Use the telemetry app to check for inner wheel spin, and you can also feel this via the controller rumble. You want some inner wheel spin to tame the exit behaviour, it acts like a poor man's traction control. If both wheels always spin together then you have too much accel setting and the rear axle is staying locked, like what drifters use. Also try raising initial torque so it is closer to the accel setting, this makes the diff more predictable when switching to throttle, but may make you understeer in tight corners.

If you want to, post a setup and I'm happy to try it out and might be able to tame it.
Amazing bits of info there! I'll have a go with the car I'm struggling most with at the moment - Hyundai Genesis Coupe 3.8 Track - and let you know if what you've pointed out remedies the issues I'm having with it. Thank you so much!

I'll post my "tune" if I can't get it under control.
 
197
England
Oxfordshire
Bread_45
Good luck with your tune. The other thing I forgot to mention, is that raising rear ride height alone, can have weird effects. You'd expect a higher rear to have more oversteer but this isn't always the case. It can sometimes give a little more oversteer on entry and mid corner, but curiously help with rear traction on exit.

This happened for me recently on an E-type Jaguar, with no aero added. I don't know if it's a body aero effect or something to do with the suspension geometry on certain cars.

What I do now is try ride height raked both ways, and compare, since it doesn't always behave as expected.