I’m so bad at this!!

[Marty_Debiru]

As far as I think this goes, it is the better driver you are in real life, the more you will struggle with games. Of course there's people that can dominate a new game in a few tries, but normally this "law" apply to everyone.

I also own and race some sport cars, including drifting and so on. And I suck at this game (driver's rating D)

 

[fardoche]

I think it is all a matter of training your brain to the game.

Going from flat screen to psvr2 required a big adaption. I can just imagine from a real car to gt7.

I have been reading the book Ultimate Speed Secrets from Ross Bentley. Very interesting insight on how to drive a car to its limit.
The very first chapter is about proper seating in the car, because according to the author, lots of information is communicated about the car and the track to the driver by the vibration that goes through the seat.
This something missing in a virtual env. , (unless you have a butt kicker attach to playseat, which bring little bit more immersion )

 

[kilesa4568]

Skip to 32 secs and tell me it's all in my head...

OK. Whatever you say.

 

[Bullwinkle]

Fanatecs recommended settings haven't been updated since the game launched. These are mine, give them a go. I don't get any oscillation at speed when holding the wheel, but it will occur if you let go of it. There's a lot more detail with them so see what you think.
SEN AUTO
FFB 100
PEAK
NDP OFF
NFR 10
NIN OFF
INT OFF
FEI 100
FOR 110
SPR OFF
DPR OFF
In game settings 5 & 1.

I run almost the same settings. I bumped FOR up all the way to 120 and reduced the in game Force to 4, though, to make sure I’m not clipping. Other than that, everything else set to OFF seems to be best because it removes all interpretation of the signal and just delivers it as intended.

For reference, here’s a link to an amazing description of all the settings: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/fanatec-gran-turismo-dd-pro.402448/post-13849268
Hopefully it helps folks make some more educated guesses.

Skip to 32 secs and tell me it's all in my head...

I’m suspicious of this video as it seems to be AI generated. The text (and the voice) clearly is, but I don’t know about the video itself. Regardless, I set my controller sensitivity to 5 just in case it isn’t a placebo effect. I keep meaning to test it out and keep forgetting.

@readthis13 Good luck with your settings. It’s a lot of fun to simply run laps and try each setting out, min and then max, just to see what feels best to you. Just know that clipping starts on the DD Pro at around 4 or 5 Force setting (in game) and anything over that is going to be stronger, but less detailed.

 

[fastone371]

OK. Whatever you say.

I watched the video, all 3 examples look the same to me. I will have to try on my wheel and see if controller sensitivity settings make a difference, I'm not expecting to see a difference.

 

[kilesa4568]

I watched the video, all 3 examples look the same to me. I will have to try on my wheel and see if controller sensitivity settings make a difference, I'm not expecting to see a difference.

Nor me. I've only got my own testing to go on, hoping it was a magic setting to go quicker but nope, I felt no difference at all. You'd think you would with an acceleration slider that's very noticeable on the pad but is nigh on impossible for me to notice on my wheel.

 

[Bullwinkle]

I watched the video, all 3 examples look the same to me. I will have to try on my wheel and see if controller sensitivity settings make a difference, I'm not expecting to see a difference.

@Abarth_71
@readthis13
@kilesa4568
I just tried the controller sensitivity thing and when I set I to -2 (why in the world is that even an option?!) it was terrible! The car was oversteering off the track like it had no wheels! When I set it to 10 it felt better, but I didn’t detect a difference from 5. It may have oversteered a little bit, but not nearly as obvious as when I set it to -2.

So the 5 setting is a good safe bet. Where exactly on the scale it makes a difference I can’t say. Just set controller sensitivity to 5 and never look at it again.

 

[watto79]

Skip to 32 secs and tell me it's all in my head...

I've just run some laps of the current online TT in the Radical using a G29. The car is quite lively on steering inputs so seems like it would be a good test. My best time is a 1:38.753 which isn't bad and relatively close to the limit of the car.
I tried the controller steering sensitivity at -2, at 10, at 5 and at 7 which it was already set at. I could feel zero difference in the way the car handled and my lap times were consistently low 39's right off the bat each time. I honestly think if the steering controller sensitivity made any difference I'd be able to feel it or it would be reflected in lap times, which just wasn't the case.

Just a placebo.

Pretty much this. I do believe people are feeling what they think they should be feeling after changing the setting, but the reality is it does what it says it does, which is changes the steering response speed for the wireless controller.

 

[readthis13]

As an update, I hopped on GT7 yesterday after not touching in Sunday, and so much just clicked for me. It's like my brain rewired itself after playing for a good amount on Saturday.

I'm nowhere near good, but I finally understand how to tell when the car is about to brake loose, how to run it into the corner at speed while braking properly, how to trail brake it in the corner (and feel it), etc. I found that I got in a zone on many races. Last night, I did the Porsche circuit where there's one guy in P1 that's pretty quick (for me at this point), and I was able to take gold overall on my 2nd attempt (bronze was the 1st attempt due to having the wrong tires on the first race w/ rain).

Now, I know that there's a TON I'm still not dialed in on - especially knowing where the limit is with each car / track, but that'll come with time.

I'm going to mount some transducers (I had lying around) to the rig tonight and hook up SRS.

This, to me, is a big step in the right direction as I'm starting to understand what to look for, and how to make decisions based on it.

Also, being that I'm new to all these cars, and all tracks (mostly), it's taking a bit to learn and really start to find my groove. It's not enough to know the track either, it's also how the game physics work with it and the car. Learning that Intermediate Race tires in the rain are about the exact same as Medium Sport tires on a dry track (which doesn't make sense, but it's how it worked last night) is a good example.


I still have plans to build out a PC sim rig, but man, I'm having so much fun w/ GT7, that it's hard to want to do as my current rig is small enough that I can roll it into my theater - which is really fun as I love to crank up music to the game.

 

[DextroCat]

If you know how to trail brake already you’ll be better than me in no time. I’m still not exactly sure what qualifies as trail braking and I’m not sure if what I’m doing with my brakes while turning is correct or not. I really gotta find some good tutorials to watch LMAO…

 

[newmedia_dev]

If you know how to trail brake already you’ll be better than me in no time. I’m still not exactly sure what qualifies as trail braking and I’m not sure if what I’m doing with my brakes while turning is correct or not. I really gotta find some good tutorials to watch LMAO…

Honestly the theory of trail braking is fairly simple it just requires some co-ordination and GT makes it harder to do because we can't "feel" the weight transfer.

The aim of trail braking is two fold:

1. Minimise the time between acceleration and braking - meaning the car is rarely coasting

2. As a way to balance the car into and through a corner to maintain corner (apex) speed and help the car turn in with some weight over the front rather than just neutrally balanced.

All it really is, is easing off the brakes as you turn in with the aim of coming off them at or near the apex and then transitioning to applying power out of the turn.

There are loads on YT explaining it and showing it in action - both car and motorbikes use it the same so you can watch either/both etc

 

[readthis13]

Honestly the theory of trail braking is fairly simple it just requires some co-ordination and GT makes it harder to do because we can't "feel" the weight transfer.

The aim of trail braking is two fold:

1. Minimise the time between acceleration and braking - meaning the car is rarely coasting

2. As a way to balance the car into and through a corner to maintain corner (apex) speed and help the car turn in with some weight over the front rather than just neutrally balanced.

All it really is, is easing off the brakes as you turn in with the aim of coming off them at or near the apex and then transitioning to applying power out of the turn.

There are loads on YT explaining it and showing it in action - both car and motorbikes use it the same so you can watch either/both etc

Also, one thing that makes this a ton easier, is to setup your brakes so you know where the 80% braking point is. So w/ my pedals, I have 80% at the first major pressure point. I know that I push to that point, and feather it there to keep from locking up. If braking hard, then I'll push way past that point, then as I begin to turn the wheels, I'll back off on the brake while feeling how much the wheels are grabbing.

I'm by no means an expert on this in GT7 (I'm still super green and would probably get wrecked by everyone on this forum), but I do understand how it should be done in the real world (and beginning to understand how to feel it in the game).

The big thing here IMO, is to setup your pedals to know where 80% is.

 

[DextroCat]

Honestly the theory of trail braking is fairly simple it just requires some co-ordination and GT makes it harder to do because we can't "feel" the weight transfer.

The aim of trail braking is two fold:

1. Minimise the time between acceleration and braking - meaning the car is rarely coasting

2. As a way to balance the car into and through a corner to maintain corner (apex) speed and help the car turn in with some weight over the front rather than just neutrally balanced.

All it really is, is easing off the brakes as you turn in with the aim of coming off them at or near the apex and then transitioning to applying power out of the turn.

There are loads on YT explaining it and showing it in action - both car and motorbikes use it the same so you can watch either/both etc

Ok I suspected that I was doing it to some degree just wasn’t sure but thanks a ton for the simple description. I think it’s a bit easier in VR compared to flat mode but I’m still on a controller which probably makes it a little more difficult than with a wheel. I was totally dependent on the Assists before VR but I can manage rain without TCS just fine now.

 

[Deadpool]

I was under the impression the controller steering sensitivity makes no difference when using a wheel ?

Correct. It doesn’t. A few believe it does, but this is a placebo effect.

 

[Jeff Goji]

If you are a seat of the pants driver like myself, GT7 will feel very disconnected, especially starting out.
Also a proper wheel as many people have mentioned at this point is a must.
I'm on a Thrust Master T-150 and the feel is very lacking and feedback is minimal.
Looking to upgrade to a newer and more integrated wheel soon.