I may have killed my G27.....won't stop spinning during calibration

  • Thread starter BrandonW77
  • 50 comments
  • 30,655 views
BrandonW77

BrandonW77

12,018
United States
Indianapolis
BrandonW77
So, my G27 developed the problem where it wouldn't return to center after "aggressive" steering (corrections). Unplugging the USB and plugging it back in would reset it to center and all would be fine for a while. But, it got worse, to the point where it never fully returned to center and after just one or two laps it would be at nearly 45º to the left in order to go straight.

So I consulted the internets and found the "simple" solution of taking the cover off and tightening a screw. Well, it's not so simple and requires a lot of dismantling. I was able to just barely get to the screw and it was not at all loose. I reassembled the wheel with some doubt as to whether I could get it back together properly. Turned on the PS3, the rev lights activate and the wheel starts its calibration spin..........but doesn't stop spinning. It just keeps going in one direction unless I stop it, then it starts going continuously in the other direction. 🤬 I load up a track and the shifter buttons and pedals work but the lights on the wheel do not respond and the wheel doesn't respond.


Anybody have any experience with this? I'm guessing I got some small component out of place or possibly dislodged a wire. I'm hoping it's a simple fix but I do fear the worst. Any help is appreciated.
 
Last edited:
Well happened to me, when i got my wheel.

This is the issue..

XcOvf.jpg



You can fix it if you open your wheel. Which void your warranty.


The Position Sensor, Is lose. This is a fact of 70% of all G27.


original


Thats 1st issue.




Your 2nd Issue, Did you unplug anything? while you disassembled it?
 
That's not at all what the instructions I read said, but your instructions certainly makes more sense. That piece is a freakin' nightmare to get to and I'm not looking forward to that at all.

I unplugged two wire connecters to get to the part you illustrated. I'm positive that I reconnected them but perhaps I damaged one in the process. I could not get the wire connector off the wheel itself so it was loosely attached during the whole process and made things a real headache.
 
Last edited:
Yeah that little plastic wheel most likely has 3 little cracks in it.. It is a because the shaft gets hot and expands and contracts and eventually it cracks.

Really a pita!
 
NjLowrider
Yeah that little plastic wheel most likely has 3 little cracks in it.. It is a because the shaft gets hot and expands and contracts and eventually it cracks.

Really a pita!
Click to expand...

Does that mean there's probably no hope of saving it? If I could figure out why it won't stop spinning during calibration I think it would be fixable but I haven't been able to find any reference about what's causing it to not hit the locks in either direction.
 
Do you think it may be a damaged code wheel that is causing it to not calibrate/respond to the game? It does light up and start to spin but never completes its calibration, I presume the game doesn't recognize it because it fails calibration (just a theory).
 
BrandonW77
Do you think it may be a damaged code wheel that is causing it to not calibrate/respond to the game? It does light up and start to spin but never completes its calibration, I presume the game doesn't recognize it because it fails calibration (just a theory).
Click to expand...

Would you mind making a small vid of what it does? Cause you said it doesn't hit the physical stop at all, which is odd.
If the motors runs continuesly but the wheel doesn't turn, or moves but stops turning at some point, it might be something wrong with the cogs instead.

My tip is to remove the wheel and top cover and power it up while watching the internals. Maybe you can come to a conclusion of why it doesn't hit the physical stops and so on.
 
Dragonwhisky
Or, you could just hit this.
Click to expand...

If he does, it will destroy his monitor as well. lol

Though to be honest. I would rather suggest going with a belt driven solution, because everything I have to replace broken stuff I rather get something better instead of the same. After all, we all like to improve our rigs over time and going from cogs to belts is an upgrade. Though it is up to the OP to decide which one suits his wallet or which he wishes to save up for.


Edit:
Just found a video or a forum member who did the brass code wheel replacement.

 
Last edited:
I'll try to get a video up tonight or tomorrow so you can see what it does. I'm not really I. A position to shell out 200+ bones for a new wheel, especially when this one is barely two years old so I'm really hoping to fix it. But my use of it had been dwindling over the last six months so I'm not even sure if I'll bother getting a new one for a while.
 
BrandonW77
I'll try to get a video up tonight or tomorrow so you can see what it does. I'm not really I. A position to shell out 200+ bones for a new wheel, especially when this one is barely two years old so I'm really hoping to fix it. But my use of it had been dwindling over the last six months so I'm not even sure if I'll bother getting a new one for a while.
Click to expand...

I can understand your hesitaton. When the money is not there.

I slobbered over pictures of a G27 for 6 months before I finally said 🤬 it and bought the thing. So far as I know the DFGT I got with the rest of the rig Christmas of 2011 is still working. Hope I don't have any of the issues with it I've read others have had. But since the warranty should be good for a few more months I'll just harangue Logitech about it.
 
Here's a video of what it does on startup. It doesn't feel smooth when it turns so it's rubbing or not on straight but I don't think that's related to the main problem.

 
BrandonW77
Here's a video of what it does on startup. It doesn't feel smooth when it turns so it's rubbing or not on straight but I don't think that's related to the main problem.

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhuuKe03mSc">YouTube Link</a>
Click to expand...

Clearly for some reason the limiter plate isn't being driven by the steering shaft, causing it not to hit those physical stops that it is waiting for.

This limiter is the black plate that goes underneath the far end of your steering shaft. There where the cable for the buttons and paddles comes out of the steering shaft.
The steering shaft should have some plastic teeth at the end. Check the condition of them.
Then proceed to check the limiter plate's teeth as well as the leaf spring underneath the plate (which holds the plate against the steering axle.
Lastly the only thing to check where how well the plate slides on its surface by hand, and see of the raised edges on either side would stop it.
 
That sounds fairly easy to investigate, I think I know exactly what you're talking about. That could explain the lack of smoothness when it's turning. I will investigate later today or tomorrow.
 
Ok, I have it apart and I think I know the area you were talking about but I can't see any physical stops or teeth. Here are pics of what I think I need to be looking at.

photomay05100802.jpg


photomay05100816.jpg


photomay05100919.jpg
 
BrandonW77
Ok, I have it apart and I think I know the area you were talking about but I can't see any physical stops or teeth. Here are pics of what I think I need to be looking at.
Click to expand...

Wrong side of the shaft. What you photographed there is the ball bearing. ;)

The other side, under the PCB. Remove all cables from the PCB and remove the PCB and the metal bracket it is on. You should see a black plastic plate under it. Also that wire that you see in your pics sticking out, it should come out at that end as well.
 
LogiForce
Wrong side of the shaft. What you photographed there is the ball bearing. ;)

The other side, under the PCB. Remove all cables from the PCB and remove the PCB and the metal bracket it is on. You should see a black plastic plate under it. Also that wire that you see in your pics sticking out, it should come out at that end as well.
Click to expand...

This?

photomay05104705.jpg


photomay05103556.jpg
 
Last edited:
Basically what he said^. Remove all of the screws from the bottom of the case, then the top should pop off. There you will see everything you need. Once that is off, the issue you're having is again, just like logiforce said. There is a square, black plastic bar that slides in a track, that is the "stop" mechanism. The teeth could be striped or the wheel has come loose.
While you have this apart, do yourself the favor and tighten the screws around the code wheel. Even better, remove them one at a time and put some loctite on them. Then the cord of wires that run up the center to the wheel, un-spin them. The look pretty wound up.
 
BrandonW77
This?
Click to expand...

No, that is called the steering boss. Under the electronics plate that has all the cables attached, that is where you should look.

So under this grey plate that the green electronics board (called a PCB) is attached two.

full.jpg
 
Last edited:
I think that you should check this piece
8710463761_d991e7c236_z.jpg


This piece is very important for the calibration of the wheel! sometimes it comes out from his axis ! it was happen to me 3 years ago!
To reach it, you should open the case of the steering wheel and remove all wires from eletronic unit!
 
wajdi1977
I think that you should check this piece

This piece is very important for the calibration of the wheel! sometimes it comes out from his axis ! it was happen to me 3 years ago!
To reach it, you should open the case of the steering wheel and remove all wires from eletronic unit!
Click to expand...

Yep, that part had come dislodged. Got it sorted, fired it up and now it does this. 🤬



There was a metal spring laying in there, shaped like a C, and I wasn't sure where to put it. I had a diagram and it looked like it just sat in a little slot behind those teeth so I set it in there but it wasn't connected to anything.
 
Odd behaviour.
The C needs to be mounted with the be placed with the middle part towards teeth of the limiter. So the outer edges of the C should be in the slot for it.

Never seen that behaviour before. What I'd do is open it up again and double check everything again. Plus firing it up while the case is open, see what happens.
After all, diagnosing what's going on is often nothing more than visual verifying what works and what does not.
I am sure it's just a small mistake somewhere in putting it back together.

Good luck.
 
I didn't know if it was safe to turn it on with everything open, seemed like it could tear itself apart. I'm sure that spring is in there wrong, I don't fully understand how it's supposed to go but what you described doesn't sound like how I placed it. The diagram I have isn't very clear so I just kinda guessed
 
BrandonW77
Yep, that part had come dislodged. Got it sorted, fired it up and now it does this. 🤬



There was a metal spring laying in there, shaped like a C, and I wasn't sure where to put it. I had a diagram and it looked like it just sat in a little slot behind those teeth so I set it in there but it wasn't connected to anything.
Click to expand...

Ok, now I'm sure that you have some issues with the calibration sensor!
Try to check if the Encoder is cracked!

LG25OED1.jpg

usually you find it with 3 cracks that are almost invisible, but they loosen the Encoder wheel with the motor shaft, so it cant start the calibration!
In the video above, you can see that the wheel starts the calibration for a moment, but after 6-7 degrees it stops, because the Encoder wheel is cracked!
I have risoled this issued by putting a little of glu between the motor shaft and the center of the Encoder wheel!
 

Latest Posts

Back