Integra Type-R DC2 N200 Tuned Set Up

  • Thread starter K3Tuning
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K3Tuning

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This is my set up for the Integra Type-R DC2. Please excuse if I'm not posting the right format. If I make a garage out of this I will clean it up and look how others do it. Ill basically turn this into a Garage tuning shop if people like my tuning style. I put a lot of work into setting up a car I don't do a high volume of set ups but those I put up will be extensively worked on. This car has been worked on since its release, only in the last few days have I finished the set up.

A little bit about me. I have been building and working on cars my whole life, currently my Project car is a 92 Mk2 Jetta GLI Coupe with a 2.8L VR6 engine swap & custom Turbo kit pushing 20lbs of boost putting down 465whp. Dropped on adjustable coil overs & 12mm wheel spacers on all corners. I'm running a custom gear set through an adjustable LSD, I pretty much tune my real car in all the ways we tune cars in GTSport.

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Getting to the Integra Type-R my first step was to do some research into the car visiting some owners forums. I wanted to use some Spoon spring rates and we only get the frequency in GTS, in order to convert a spoon spring rate into GTS I needed some data I can't get from GTS. I wanted to know the motion ratio front and rear along with the un sprung weight numbers. Using this info I can roughly calculate what the spring rate is for any given frequency and reverse the calculation to get the frequency for any given spring rate. I got some very good information.

The Real World Data
Since using double wishbone front and rear the 2 sides have the same motion ratio of 0.7. The front holding 63% of the weight while 37% is on the back end it takes a much softer spring in the rear for the 2 sides to have an equal frequency. The front has about 110lbs each corner of un sprung weight, the rear about 60lbs each corner. The front much heavier mostly due to the half shafts.

In real life many sporty FF cars will run progressive springs in the rear & linear in the front. The initial spring rate in the rear will match the fronts frequency but the progressive rate of the spring will get much stiffer. Honda seems to go progressively up to equal the spring rate of the front for maximum stiffness at the rear, since the weight balance would have the rear frequency much much higher at the same rate as the front. The reason this is done is because a stiffer frequency in the rear on a front wheel drive helps cornering a lot, but is not the safest for the streets. Too stiff a back end and the tail will give out far too easy in real world road conditions. If you've driven a tuned FF on the streets & hit some gravel or small bumps mid corner you know how easy that back end can get out on yah.

Something to consider if getting springs for your daily FF. If your going to spend most time crusing the streets and very little Auto X or track days a progressive rear spring is a good way to go. If all you care about is Auto X or Lap times linear springs will be what you want.

Now Real world specs don't always line up 100% in Gran Turismo games, so I had to take this into concideration and use as much Gran Turismo data in my calculations and always lean in the direction of Gran Turismo data for end results..

N200 on Sports Soft Tires
I went N200 because she wont max out N300 I feel this is her most competitive field.

Power 123 / Weight 88

Spoon suggest lowering the car around 33mm a bit more than an inch or so, I gave her about the same so she's not riding on the bump stops through corners. She could be lowered a bit more on those super smooth tracks but she's good now all round even on the Nurb. I always go with a rake even if only one click of the settings.

Ride Height
4.17/4.21

Spoon Race springs at the stiffer rates were crazy high frequency of 2.60 in the rear. Unobtainable in GTSport and more for fully built race cars on racing tires vs a tuned car on street tires. Going for a more reasonable Rate I opted for a softer set resulting in 1.9/2.1 all sets relatively 0.2 softer frequency up front. I chose this as the front is just right under braking, not diving too much cradling the weight.

Spring Frequency
1.90/2.10

To give the car some real turning ability I put on some aggressive bar settings but left a tiny bit of room to go even more aggressive. 2/9 with a click of room on the front and a click of room on the rear. Usually FF we run the thickest bar in the rear even some rear upper strut bars and the ITR even has an added bar in the rear from factory. Often the front bar is removed or they run a really really thin bar. Idea is to keep the drive/turning wheels as planted as possible and bar settings make the inside wheel light.

Anti-Roll-Bars
2/9

Dampers I initially set as if they came unadjustable with the springs. All this is is getting springs and dampers adjustments to all line up. From here I tune the dampers like you do 2 way adjustable.

I kept the front comp on point but over dampened the ext to keep from losing grip on acceleration & I under dampened the rear comp on account of the high rear frequency combined with the stiff bar settings but kept the ext on point. This was all tuning through feel, the dampers help weight management quite a bit.

63/62
95/95

Moving on to the wheel Alignment I was directed to a general Track alignment that has been used by many to great results being a set up for tracked street cars not full on built race cars with racing tires. It works great although I had to make some adjustments to the front toe to get the turn in I like, but other than that they worked out great

Camber
-2.7/-1.7
Toe
Out 0.50/Out 0.30

Skipping Diff we will get back to it after the transmission.

The switch to an adjustable transmission upgrades also from the 5spd to a 6spd and since the power at 123% has us very close to the k20 series in the DC5 ITR I went ahead and used the gear ratios out of the DC5 6spd. Both running V-Tec engines with similar power the gears work great maxing out at 250kmh.

Top Speed 250

1 / 3.266 / 61
2 / 2.130 / 93
3 / 1.517 / 131
4 / 1.212 / 164
5 / 0.972 / 205
6 / 0.780 / 261

Final Drive
4.764

Now the car will be faster on any given track if you adjust the final drive so you max out 6th gear at the end of the longest straight. Unless the track is so small you use 5th or 4th instead.

Example, for Dragons Trail Seaside I adjusted the Final to 5.252 and cut time after 2 laps.

Differential & Brake Bias are very user based.

I run my brake bias -3 to -4 so far on most pretty much all tracks so far. I suggest you play with this to suit your driving style.

Differential settings I feel are the same and will vary preference one driver to the next.

On the low side (popular)
5/5/5

Mid side (what I like)
6/12/8

Or factory FF
5/20/10

I suggest to give them all a good try and settle where you like it best.

Demonstration Run


Hope this set up has been helpful, I really enjoy driving this car its probably the best handling FF car in the game, if it had a Turbo option it could also be the fastest. Online running N200 lobbies this car has hurt a few feelings.
 
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View attachment 800306

This is my set up for the Integra Type-R DC2. Please excuse if I'm not posting the right format. If I make a garage out of this I will clean it up and look how others do it. Ill basically turn this into a Garage tuning shop if people like my tuning style. I put a lot of work into setting up a car I don't do a high volume of set ups but those I put up will be extensively worked on. This car has been worked on since its release, only in the last few days have I finished the set up.

A little bit about me. I have been building and working on cars my whole life, currently my Project car is a 92 Mk2 Jetta GLI Coupe with a 2.8L VR6 engine swap & custom Turbo kit pushing 20lbs of boost putting down 465whp. Dropped on adjustable coil overs & 12mm wheel spacers on all corners. I'm running a custom gear set through an adjustable LSD, I pretty much tune my real car in all the ways we tune cars in GTSport.

View attachment 800307

View attachment 800308



Getting to the Integra Type-R my first step was to do some research into the car visiting some owners forums. I wanted to use some Spoon spring rates and we only get the frequency in GTS, in order to convert a spoon spring rate into GTS I needed some data I can't get from GTS. I wanted to know the motion ratio front and rear along with the un sprung weight numbers. Using this info I can roughly calculate what the spring rate is for any given frequency and reverse the calculation to get the frequency for any given spring rate. I got some very good information.

The Real World Data
Since using double wishbone front and rear the 2 sides have the same motion ratio of 0.7. The front holding 63% of the weight while 37% is on the back end it takes a much softer spring in the rear for the 2 sides to have an equal frequency. The front has about 110lbs each corner of un sprung weight, the rear about 60lbs each corner. The front much heavier mostly due to the half shafts.

In real life many sporty FF cars will run progressive springs in the rear & linear in the front. The initial spring rate in the rear will match the fronts frequency but the progressive rate of the spring will get much stiffer. Honda seems to go progressively up to equal the spring rate of the front for maximum stiffness at the rear, since the weight balance would have the rear frequency much much higher at the same rate as the front. The reason this is done is because a stiffer frequency in the rear on a front wheel drive helps cornering a lot, but is not the safest for the streets. Too stiff a back end and the tail will give out far too easy in real world road conditions. If you've driven a tuned FF on the streets & hit some gravel or small bumps mid corner you know how easy that back end can get out on yah.

Something to consider if getting springs for your daily FF. If your going to spend most time crusing the streets and very little Auto X or track days a progressive rear spring is a good way to go. If all you care about is Auto X or Lap times linear springs will be what you want.

Now Real world specs don't always line up 100% in Gran Turismo games, so I had to take this into concideration and use as much Gran Turismo data in my calculations and always lean in the direction of Gran Turismo data for end results..

N200 on Sports Soft Tires
I went N200 because she wont max out N300 I feel this is her most competitive field.

Power 123 / Weight 88

Spoon suggest lowering the car around 33mm a bit more than an inch or so, I gave her about the same so she's not riding on the bump stops through corners. She could be lowered a bit more on those super smooth tracks but she's good now all round even on the Nurb. I always go with a rake even if only one click of the settings.

Ride Height
4.17/4.21

Spoon Race springs at the stiffer rates were crazy high frequency of 2.60 in the rear. Unobtainable in GTSport and more for fully built race cars on racing tires vs a tuned car on street tires. Going for a more reasonable Rate I opted for a softer set resulting in 1.9/2.1 all sets relatively 0.2 softer frequency up front. I chose this as the front is just right under braking, not diving too much cradling the weight.

Spring Frequency
1.90/2.10

To give the car some real turning ability I put on some aggressive bar settings but left a tiny bit of room to go even more aggressive. 2/9 with a click of room on the front and a click of room on the rear. Usually FF we run the thickest bar in the rear even some rear upper strut bars and the ITR even has an added bar in the rear from factory. Often the front bar is removed or they run a really really thin bar. Idea is to keep the drive/turning wheels as planted as possible and bar settings make the inside wheel light.

Anti-Roll-Bars
2/9

Dampers I initially set as if they came unadjustable with the springs. All this is is getting springs and dampers adjustments to all line up. From here I tune the dampers like you do 2 way adjustable.

I kept the front comp on point but over dampened the ext to keep from losing grip on acceleration & I under dampened the rear comp on account of the high rear frequency combined with the stiff bar settings but kept the ext on point. This was all tuning through feel, the dampers help weight management quite a bit.

63/62
95/95

Moving on to the wheel Alignment I was directed to a general Track alignment that has been used by many to great results being a set up for tracked street cars not full on built race cars with racing tires. It works great although I had to make some adjustments to the front toe to get the turn in I like, but other than that they worked out great

Camber
-2.7/-1.7
Toe
Out 0.50/Out 0.30

Skipping Diff we will get back to it after the transmission.

The switch to an adjustable transmission upgrades also from the 5spd to a 6spd and since the power at 123% has us very close to the k20 series in the DC5 ITR I went ahead and used the gear ratios out of the DC5 6spd. Both running V-Tec engines with similar power the gears work great maxing out at 250kmh.

Top Speed 250

1 / 3.266 / 61
2 / 2.130 / 93
3 / 1.517 / 131
4 / 1.212 / 164
5 / 0.972 / 205
6 / 0.780 / 261

Final Drive
4.764

Now the car will be faster on any given track if you adjust the final drive so you max out 6th gear at the end of the longest straight. Unless the track is so small you use 5th or 4th instead.

Example, for Dragons Trail Seaside I adjusted the Final to 5.252 and cut time after 2 laps.

Differential & Brake Bias are very user based.

I run my brake bias -3 to -4 so far on most pretty much all tracks so far. I suggest you play with this to suit your driving style.

Differential settings I feel are the same and will vary preference one driver to the next.

On the low side (popular)
5/5/5

Mid side (what I like)
6/12/8

Or factory FF
5/20/10

I suggest to give them all a good try and settle where you like it best.

Demonstration Run


Hope this set up has been helpful, I really enjoy driving this car its probably the best handling FF car in the game, if it had a Turbo option it could also be the fastest. Online running N200 lobbies this car has hurt a few feelings.

Thanks for sharing this in depth explanation of tuning. This is very good information. I will give you feedback this coming weekend. :cheers:
 
Thanks I appreciate you trying it out. I very much feel it will be worth your time, the cars very fun to drive and rotates like a clock.


For those who maybe turned off by a wrong wheel drive car on a track

On top of a good time driving the car she handles so nice, you almost forget its FF, there is a side effect to getting good at driving FF cars fast. When you get real good at it, it can help you drive FR cars faster. Its all about throttle control only the consequences are different. Give too much on FR and the tail kicks you have to manage the throttle AND counter steer compared to an FF all you have to do is manage the throttle. Less drastic if you over do it & once you get good and it the skills directly translate to FR managing the throttle so that you dont have to counter steer. It helps you in FR but still some things to get good at and countersteering is one of them .
 
How did you come up with your unsprung weight totals? Did you disassemble the suspension and weigh everything? I wonder if it would be as simple as removing the springs from the 1 corner of the car and putting that corner of the car on a scale while obviously making sure you are not touching a bump stop or bottoming a strut/shock? I would think that would work then just add the weight of the spring unless it's a torsion bar then its sprung weight. Everytime I think of torsion bar springs I realize how wonderful they are and never realized it before. Chrysler was ahead of their time and nobody even realized it. When Chrysler was building cars with torsion bars F1 cars used coil over springs, Chrysler then abandons torsion bars and F1 starts using torsion bars because of their advantages.
 
Excellent Job creating this setup!! The car runs beautifully, I highly recommend trying it out. :cheers: :)



Breaking the 2min barrier with this car in N200 on SS takes some serious Skill driving. Really stoked you like the set up and I appreciate you taking the time to set a time in her, one that Im going to chase after for a while probably lololol

1:59 unreal, well done.

I hope others give this car a go, I find her a fine example of a Fun FWD car from the 90's we need some more cough cough CR-X, 99 Si Coupe cough cough How About a MK2 Jetta :D

How did you come up with your unsprung weight totals? Did you disassemble the suspension and weigh everything?

Basically yeah, well not me but a guy on a Honda forum did just that. Its basically the combined weight of stock wheel and tire, wish bones, shock, coil, brake assembly with hubs and half shafts. Biggest difference in the rear is they have no half shafts and the brake assembly is a touch lighter.
 
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Im a happy camper this morning :D I was on the reserve gas tank last night and passed out on my couch :/ woke up with an itty bitty kink but I be alright :D hearing good feedback is always good for a good mood.

@Romafo72 I'm really glad you went to the Nurb with her, kinda like most manufactures these days the Nurb is the final destination to make sure the car is predictable on varyous road conditions, on camber corners, off camber, varying camber corners, bumpy sections and smooth sections. Since I first seen Ruf Fasination I was HOOKED, and most performance cars are tuned there by Manufacturers these days for good reason.

I hope many more give this historically significant car some deserved attention & she can hurt a feeling or two online in open lobbies :D
 
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Thanks for taking the time to try the set up for the car out. So happy when PD gave it the Premium treatment :D

I really appreciate the attention this Car & set up is getting and how well received the settings have been. Its giving me drive to refine some more cars and post the set ups. I have a great time with this game glad to provide set ups others can enjoy the game with

I've got a few more in the works I'm getting pleased with and will make the conversion into a garage when I have a them ready and when I can think of a good shop name lol
 
With this weeks dailies being what they are, I will be in tuning sessions more often. Still will do some Daily Gr2 races.

I have a few cars I worked on today that are feeling good, not ready yet but things are progressing nicely to have a few cars available as things are looking good on the track.
 
So with a couple other cars almost ready to go, I need a set up for a car that will be useful in the Game outside of racing for fun and the relatively easy career races. Seeing a set up request post in the tuning section for a 911 GT3 RS to use in the Porsche Endurance series I figured it was was meant to be. One of the more challenging A Spec races with a car that can have some character. Its not a hard car to drive fast but it is hard car to make no mistakes with, these races going on for roughly an hour each, I figure a set up that's more complacent and forgiving would be useful to people who are looking for set ups.

Its also an opportunity to finally tune a factory Porsche in Gran Turismo. :D

My tuning has been running to pit sessions, where I run the car till pit then exit and tune unless I back out earlier for tuning. Today I finally completed a race with I would say good results.

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It switched out of the results before I 2nd place finished so Im not sure the gap, I lapped everybody else and if I had a few more laps Im sure I would of got a Lap dance from 2nd place too.

The car feels great. She rotates well going into corners and is stable coming out of corners with no understeer tendencies. Very versatile can take any line and make line changes mid corner no problem, the car is very stable and wont bite you unless you really really deserve it.

I had tested a other Tuners set up I found to be extremely good. It traded much of the OEM spec overseer tendencies for some understeer making the car very very easy to drive. I will probably include links to that set up when I post mine. I think its a great option for those looking for a much easier 911 to drive while my set up retains more rotation with the throttle at spec for those looking for something a little more compliant.
 
Can’t wait to try this out, a favorite of mine as well. The toe and roll bar settings are different from what I usually run, so I’m anxious to give another set up a go and feel the differences. Great write up!
 
I was intrigued by the amount of real world technic that went into this tune. I just ran the ITR for the J Sports cup, and this tune feels great. Good job.

Though I must admit, I ran +5 brake balance and I think you’re a bit of a madman for running -3/-4. So that’s my contribution, +5 on the brake balance, this car needs it.
 
Thanks for trying out the ITR lol yeah I like the BB to give heavy rotation but you're sooo right its a bit mad man on those hard stops if you let the back end get out.

Been on a RDR2 grind last few days. Really eager for the SF19 cars :D but still working on a few cars refining them with last touches.

I've got my N300 Supra done up just doing the gears on it and testing her at a few locations. I think I will see if a tester with a wheel set up can test out the wheel angles before release. Mostly front toe I'd like to make sure is wheel user friendly.

Porsche is in final stages too, gearing to do, She's good to murder all the endurance series without TC or CSA going hard on medium tires. Tuned to run no TC but its still advised to run a little bit as the GT3 cars IRL use some anyways or go for the gusto and keep it off the car is capable.

A few other cars in the works too and looks like I need do some work on that Rotory car I got sitting in my garage :D


Again I appreciate the attention on the set up and stoked people like the way she drives. PD did a good job with this car.
 
That would be so cool, I used to own an 87 Turbo II, so I thoroughly enjoy driving that car in GT. I just wish I could switch it to RHD so it would be exactly like driving my old car. :)
 
I really, and I mean REALLY dig the convertible of that gen RX7. I seen a super clean white one a few years ago, sooo fresh. Some older cars don't go out of style. Fresh set of wheels on aclean example and they don't blend in, they stand out as something special.
 
K3,
What happened man? :confused: A lot of us are going to miss the tunes you were working on. You had us on the edge of our racing seats. The integra was beautiful and I really wanted the ndurance Porsche you teased. Miss you bro. :boggled:
 
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