iRacing - road routes/license and cost?

[MuRRe]

Hi!
I wanna know which routes you can take in iRacing when it comes to road racing.
Wanna know what it will cost me (approximately).

Thanks in advance

 

[Northstar]

Their car page is basically tiered starting with the low end cars on bottom(Oval is on the left, sports car's in the middle and open wheel on the right).

As for cost, it depends on serious you want to get about it and what series you want to get into.

 

[Mad94d]

If you want to go touring cars/GT cars do this....

Nvidia Cup > Mustang Cup > V8 Supercars > Prototype and GT Championship > Williams (Pinnacle series, only Class A Series).

If you want to spend less money do this:

Nvidia Cup (keep racing this until you get to D Class 4.0) > V8 Supercar Series (You race as long as you are above 4.0 D Class. This will also complete your Minimum race requirements) > Then to any B Class series you want (eg above).

Open Wheel:

Nvidia Cup > Skip Barber > Star Mazda > IZOD Indycar Series > Grand Prix Series

Cheaper option:

Nvidia Cup > Skip D Class like the V8 and go straight to C > Star Mazda > so and so forth.

Hope that helps. 👍

Another thing, spend money on tracks. Good tracks to buy are Watkins Glen, Mid Ohio, Road Atlanta, Phillip Island, Spa. They get used in most series'.

 

[OLDSKOOLACURA]

^ thank you MAD

 

[sandboxgod]

Yeah seem like the cheap route is to just stay in that little Mazda forever til you hit higher class. The expensive option though would be to try to buy all the tracks for a season per Class from what I'm seeing

I play a lot of games so I plan to just be casual and stick to this nvidia cup.

 

[OLDSKOOLACURA]

Yeah seem like the cheap route is to just stay in that little Mazda forever til you hit higher class. The expensive option though would be to try to buy all the tracks for a season per Class from what I'm seeing

I play a lot of games so I plan to just be casual and stick to this nvidia cup.

Yea I'm thinking of doing the same thing. I'm in no rush to move up.

 

[Mad94d]

Biggest advice I can offer is skip D Class completely if you want to.... If you Mazda MX5's until D4.0 you can buy a C class car and use that to get to C Class license to complete your minimum races as I said. If I knew that I would've saved so much money at the start instead of buying the Mustang which I didn't really want.... I've got 100% content now anyway so it doesn't matter but initially iRacing can be very expensive.

 

[Nastradamus87]

Biggest advice I can offer is skip D Class completely if you want to.... If you Mazda MX5's until D4.0 you can buy a C class car and use that to get to C Class license to complete your minimum races as I said. If I knew that I would've saved so much money at the start instead of buying the Mustang which I didn't really want.... I've got 100% content now anyway so it doesn't matter but initially iRacing can be very expensive.

This sounds like good advice. I will likely take this route. Thanks.

 

[MuRRe]

Biggest advice I can offer is skip D Class completely if you want to.... If you Mazda MX5's until D4.0 you can buy a C class car and use that to get to C Class license to complete your minimum races as I said. If I knew that I would've saved so much money at the start instead of buying the Mustang which I didn't really want.... I've got 100% content now anyway so it doesn't matter but initially iRacing can be very expensive.

So basically I drive my MX5 until D4.0 which after I can choose between which cars?

Sorry for bumping an old thread, but think it's better everything is collected in one thread.

 

[sandboxgod]

sup Murre where you been??? Havent seen you post in forever+++

[edit] I just found out as a Class D you can just simply keep running rookie events til you got 4.0 in SR. Perhaps Mad meant this above

Yes. Without any D class content you have no option but to run official Rookie races (or official qual or TT sessions) if you want to gain SR. Once you hit 4.0 you are able to race in C class series even though you don't have the MPR to actually become a C class racer yet.

The hard parts are (a) getting up to SR 4.0 in Rookie races, especially now the tyre models have been tweaked and (b) staying above 4.0 while doing 4 races or TT sessions in C class content in order to satisfy the MPR requirement. Once that's done, you're C (after a little delay for the stats to catch up).

Of course you could use TT sessions to get your SR above 4.0 rather than join Rookie races, but it can take a looooong time to gain anything significant because of the 0.35 SR multiplier.

- from forums...

* Note, try to buy that 1 year promo for just $49 if not too late. Also always buy content in groups of 3 or 6. You can get up to 20% discount plus u get promo codes for referrals and special sales. I still have a $15 promo code for instance.

 

[Blaze_409]

Im a little bit confused . The website says 1 time fee of 11.95 per car o track. Does each new car and new track cost 11.95 each?? Thats sounds expensive. Theres really only a few cars I really want in this game. The HPD arx, the Corvette, The Ford GT, and the Williams F1.
and maybe a Miata.


would that cost me 60$?

 

[Jav]

Im a little bit confused . The website says 1 time fee of 11.95 per car o track. Does each new car and new track cost 11.95 each?? Thats sounds expensive. Theres really only a few cars I really want in this game. The HPD arx, the Corvette, The Ford GT, and the Williams F1.
and maybe a Miata.


would that cost me 60$?

If you use the GP Wire promo code you will get the F1 + Zandvoort and Silverstone plus all the basic content with your subscription.(this the one I used)
After that just buy the cars you want as you progress trough the licenses. now is even better because you only need to buy the car you want to use to run in a series instead of buying all cars that run in that particular series.
Knowing what I know now, I'd either use the 1 year code or the GP wire code.
Get out of rookie license, buy the Mustang, get out of D, run Grand Am with the Mustang and the track you gonna use that week, get out of C and buy either the Ford/Vette/ARX and enjoy iRacing! When you get to A license you'll already have the F1 car!
Costs are minimized and fun maximized! Offcourse you're gonna want to buy some other cars like the riley DP, Dallara, Star Mazda and the McLaren MP4-12C GT3 when it comes out but you can do that later.

 

[Blaze_409]

If you use the GP Wire promo code you will get the F1 + Zandvoort and Silverstone plus all the basic content with your subscription.(this the one I used)
After that just buy the cars you want as you progress trough the licenses. now is even better because you only need to buy the car you want to use to run in a series instead of buying all cars that run in that particular series.
Knowing what I know now, I'd either use the 1 year code or the GP wire code.
Get out of rookie license, buy the Mustang, get out of D, run Grand Am with the Mustang and the track you gonna use that week, get out of C and buy either the Ford/Vette/ARX and enjoy iRacing! When you get to A license you'll already have the F1 car!
Costs are minimized and fun maximized! Offcourse you're gonna want to buy some other cars like the riley DP, Dallara, Star Mazda and the McLaren MP4-12C GT3 when it comes out but you can do that later.

most definitely! right now Bank of America is being a 🤬 with my account......

 

[Jav]

most definitely! right now Bank of America is being a 🤬 with my account......

Lol!! Yeah, Chase doesn't like me either...

 

[sandboxgod]

If you sign up make sure you enter a GTP member so they can get the referral bonus so they can get additional cars & tracks. That's how I cut down on costs by using the specials

Costs also come down a little bit by buying them in groups of 3 or 6 to get up to a 20% discount.

Also, let's say all you want to do is Prototypes & GT. You dont have to buy all the tracks in Class C & D to get there. So to get through Class D you could get a Mustang and just buy 1 track. During that week just do 4 races or Time Trials to fulfill the MPR. After that, just do some rookie content and you'll hit Class C. Rinse and repeat for Class C then you'll get bumped to Class B. The only conflict you'll have shooting through content that fast is ttRating & iRating which may suffer due to lack of practice, wisdom, & skill

But once you get to the desired series at this point you'll want to start buying tracks. If you're a Road racer you'll most likely want to avoid purchasing Ovals in most cases. Sometimes they popup in a series but they get very little reuse unless it's something like Daytona or Indy (which are staple to Grand Am Rolex series)

 

[Blaze_409]

Yes I will do the referall thanks for the heads up!

 

[superbike81]

Just remember, when it comes to iRacing, don't treat it like GT5. When I say that I mean don't try to have every single car just to have them. Take your time, I spent like 6 months almost exclusively racing the MX-5 Cup until I could consistently finish in the top 3 even at the top splits.

Also, be aware that if you are participating for championship points, you don't have to participate in every single race. Most series have a certain number of races that you can miss each season that won't hurt your chances.

Doing both of these things can save you money. After your initial few months, if you decide it's a game you really like, keep an eye out for specials for membership renewal such as the recent Black Friday sale they had.

I only own 5 cars, own most of the road course tracks, and have never spent more than $75 or so a year on everything. Just watch out for specials, participate in races as often as you can to earn iRacing credits, and it's really not going to end up as expensive as many people make it out to be.

Now if you are the type who wants to race every single car on every track (oval and road)......well......take out your credit card, it's gonna get expensive.