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- Greece
Am not gonna race Tokyo for any reason, we both hate eachother way far from the point of no return 🤣
Unfortunatly the AI pace is absolutey inconsistent to really tell a difference between the 3 difficulties by a single race.2.08 fast lap on normal!
Here is something to blow your mind, at Le Mans, you do not need maximum downforce, in fact you should minimize the downforce as maximum increases drag, I've been doing the "stock" Gr.4 challenges and finding out I go faster with less downforce and I still have control in the turns.Been really enjoying LeMans in stock power/weight Gr.4 cars that I have.
Tuned transmission, differential, small suspension tweeks and max downforce.
458, Aston, Jag and Cayman all do very well - RM and Normal difficulty.
Max downforce slows on the long straights, not necessary on LeMans. I keep wide bodies at 120/230 (default on most???, C8 and ZR1 anyway), can run 80/150 and still handle fine. GR4 I lower. Makes for good regulation to keep cars closer for proper comparison.Here is something to blow your mind, at Le Mans, you do not need maximum downforce, in fact you should minimize the downforce as maximum increases drag, I've been doing the "stock" Gr.4 challenges and finding out I go faster with less downforce and I still have control in the turns.
Try it, you may like it.....
Ha, no, mind is not blown... have not tried min. downforce, none of the cars I have used struggle on the straights with the transmission tune - especially - when in a draft, and make up for lost speed (when not drafting) in the few turns we have... having said that, most of the time I still gain on the straights due to how terrible the AI is with exit speed...Here is something to blow your mind, at Le Mans, you do not need maximum downforce, in fact you should minimize the downforce as maximum increases drag, I've been doing the "stock" Gr.4 challenges and finding out I go faster with less downforce and I still have control in the turns.
Try it, you may like it.....
I agree with this when it comes to high down force race cars, but the "max" down force on the Group 4 cars is very low compared to most race cars. I did some TT testing with the stock Gr 4's, all variables the same just max vs min down force.Here is something to blow your mind, at Le Mans, you do not need maximum downforce, in fact you should minimize the downforce as maximum increases drag, I've been doing the "stock" Gr.4 challenges and finding out I go faster with less downforce and I still have control in the turns.
So technically you could still win by doing at least one stop in the middle with FM4 and or with RM or RS...In a break from formal testing of the Gr.4 cars at Le Mans, I purchased another Nissan and put a new motor in, and was very shocked to find out I can do six laps at FM6 and with RH tyres it was almost a non stop race but, because of a dry race (rare these days) I had to stop at end of the 6th for splash of petrol to finish out with 7 laps and the win. Here are the settings as I use a controller and be easy on the throttle upon exits of turns, she may want to spin with it.
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i agree......So technically you could still win by doing at least one stop in the middle with FM4 and or with RM or RS...
But since most of the time you have at least rain conditions requiring IM tires... That means at least one pit stop for it, right ?
Wow , i must try those two .The new Toyota 86 swaps are killers, with the GRMN / Lexus GT 500 swap being the biggest monster of the group. Over 800 hp, under 700pp with RS, and 4.5 laps on fuel. Oh, and over 200mph on FM6.
The two 787B swapped Miata's are pretty crazy as well.The new Toyota 86 swaps are killers, with the GRMN / Lexus GT 500 swap being the biggest monster of the group. Over 800 hp, under 700pp with RS, and 4.5 laps on fuel. Oh, and over 200mph on FM6.
I try yesterday the GRMN .The new Toyota 86 swaps are killers, with the GRMN / Lexus GT 500 swap being the biggest monster of the group. Over 800 hp, under 700pp with RS, and 4.5 laps on fuel. Oh, and over 200mph on FM6.
Is that with the LS7 swap ?So I'm gonna answer a question that nobody asked: Yes, you can win Le Mans with the HiAce!
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And hey, it was a fun race!
We started with great weather and the first lap was a 4.15. Not bad for a van🙂
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OMG, those trees look ugly!
But there are a few problems: The car doesn't like any hard braking, it's eating tires for breakfast and it drinks! A lot! So when you rev this thing, even at FM6, it does 2 laps max. So after the first pitstop I thought that it was time for a 3 lap stint and started fuel saving. Heavy fuel saving! Short shifting, coasting, driving in higher gear, everything is required to squeeze out 3 laps. But, at the end of lap 4, the rain came. And my plans were gone. So another stop and Intermediates. And another 3 lap stint with heavy fuel saving. sigh
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A Hard Rain's a-Gonna Fall
Lap 5 & 6 were ok and I was in lead by 1.25 but there was still 1.35 on the clock, so I needed a seventh round. Unfortunately the rear tires were completely gone and the car was almost undrivable. Extrem wheel spin and constantly sliding. I spun out 3 times and had to drive like on ice to finish the lap.
This was on easy mode and just for fun. With better settings (and luck with the weather) it should be possible to win on normal also I guess.
Yes!Is that with the LS7 swap ?
Without knowing the setup, you could try lowering the initial LSD and/or lowering front downforceOnly gripe I have with the ‘92 NSX swap(widebody, full aero), is off-throttle in sweepers. The rear gets loose no matter how I set the anti-roll bars and spring rates. I even have maximum downforce front & rear. Other than that, on FM2 and dry conditions it did the whole race non-stop 30:05.
I’ve got the LSD at 10/30/10. Car gets out of step with little bit of tyre wear. Off-throttle gets worse with worn rears. It’s fine with fresh tyres and with braking stability, even on worn tyres, throughout the race.Without knowing the setup, you could try lowering the initial LSD and/or lowering front downforce