Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

Hey guys. Is it possible to use any USB pedal together with Logitech G Pro with drivehub?
I'm pretty sure it will depend on how much driver support the drivehub devs can get to make it work. It's probably better if you ask that question in the drivehub thread, the dev is pretty active over there.

 
In case it’s helpful to anyone…I recently purchased the Fanatec DD Pro Gt7 kit and, like many others, was disappointed to have it not show up and have no updates. So I gave up on that and ordered the G Pro. Coming from a T300RS.

After a good amount of tweaking, and upgraded wheel stand, and reading all the great advice from @LOGI_Rich i managed to get it pretty dialed in. Recommended settings, 8-1 in GT7 FFB, stiffest brake, but pretty low force. Feels great.

Anyway, out of nowhere, the Fanatec wheel showed up! As I was still in my return window for Logitech and in the middle of a chargeback dispute with Fanatec, I decided to spend a couple hours doing a 1v1 shootout - Logitech vs. Fanatec, to see what was what.

After setting up the Fanatec with the load cell brake pedal, gave it a shot…and it wasn’t even close. While the wheel felt very smooth and the brake pedal felt great and predictable, not having TrueForce made it feel like I was playing Cruisin USA in the arcade back in the day. The curbs were just…missing. I did about 10 laps of Spa and got somewhat close to my best Logitech times but the immersion was missing and I had much less idea what the car was doing.

As someone who started playing GT7 on controller (after a 20 year hiatus) and learned car control on the PS5 controller, I feel like TrueForce is what I have been missing on my T300RS over the last year.

All that being said, the Fanatec is going back (if they ever respond to my email??) and the Logitech is the way forward. Excited to see what the future may hold with any additional rims down the line.

If anyone is in a similar dilemma, ask me anything
This is very help full. I am constantly debating my self which DD wheel to get, so opinion of someone who have compared them directly is very good. Thanks :-)
 
Last week I decided to try and fine tune the FFB settings on my G Pro for no reason other than I had time to kill. I figured it would help me to isolate the effects of the FFB settings, both on wheel and in game, by turning off TrueForce completely.

Learned 2 things....
1) the recommend settings are really good. However I prefer in game sensitivity between 6 and 10. Not a huge difference in that range. Everything else on wheel was great.
2) It's completely shocking go see how much Trueforce adds to the feel of GT7. Using recommended settings, so 35 in game and 100 on wheel.
 
Last week I decided to try and fine tune the FFB settings on my G Pro for no reason other than I had time to kill. I figured it would help me to isolate the effects of the FFB settings, both on wheel and in game, by turning off TrueForce completely.

Learned 2 things....
1) the recommend settings are really good. However I prefer in game sensitivity between 6 and 10. Not a huge difference in that range. Everything else on wheel was great.
2) It's completely shocking go see how much Trueforce adds to the feel of GT7. Using recommended settings, so 35 in game and 100 on wheel.
I would like to use the True Force /output in Sim Hub to help feel the road surface and kerbs.
 
OK... I'm glad I checked the official DH store.

You guys said I'd be OK with GT6 on my PS3, but here's what the site says:

LIST OF COMPATIBLE PLATFORMS

  • Xbox Series X
  • Xbox Series S
  • Xbox One X
  • Xbox One S
  • Xbox One
  • PS4 Pro
  • PS4 Slim
  • PS4
  • PS5 (REQUIRES PS4 Hori Mini-Pad or PS4 Nacon Compact Controller for NON PS4/PS5 compatible wheels)
No PS3, so I ask again, can I use the G Pro in GT6 on my PS3 or not?
 
OK... I'm glad I checked the official DH store.

You guys said I'd be OK with GT6 on my PS3, but here's what the site says:

LIST OF COMPATIBLE PLATFORMS

  • Xbox Series X
  • Xbox Series S
  • Xbox One X
  • Xbox One S
  • Xbox One
  • PS4 Pro
  • PS4 Slim
  • PS4
  • PS5 (REQUIRES PS4 Hori Mini-Pad or PS4 Nacon Compact Controller for NON PS4/PS5 compatible wheels)
No PS3, so I ask again, can I use the G Pro in GT6 on my PS3 or not?
The site hasn't been updated in a very long time. Podger says it works, so yes it works.
 
Thanks for that @Yes No.

I need to be 100%-sure 'though, so just in case he misread what I wrote and miss-spelled PS4 as PS3, @Podger, if I may be so bold, could you please confirm again that GT6 on PS3 will work with my G Pro and DH?

Sorry to badger you bro'. :gtpflag:
 
@Monkey Man. I can’t speak to drive hub, but id bet g pro in compatibility mode would work with ps3. Most of that stuff is usually backwards compatible. Why not dust off your ps3 and test it?
 
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I think I did the compatibility-mode test when I first bought it a year and a half ago mate, but now that you mention it, I might give that another go just to be sure.

That said, if it was a thing you'd think we'd have heard about it. IIRC when Sony introduced the PS4 the "security chip" requirement for Logitech wheels came into effect, so I don't expect any miracles there.

The DH solution OTOH, by disguising it as a G27 (apparently), should get around that... I think...
 
Looking at the DH manual, it says the update software requires Mac OSX Mountain Lion or Higher and I have High Sierra, a much-later version (can't go any further than that on my machine).

So I DL'd the software to see if it runs and whaddayaknow, it won't. The manual links to a beta version 1.00 by the look of it (link now broken) and yet the site's link (only 1 link) is for v10, which won't run.

Thoughts? Could I get away with not being able to update the firmware?

I must say I was shocked to see what these things are worth these days. Years ago when I last researched it I could have sworn it was $30 US, now $90 US, $170->$200 AU.

There I was trying to be careful 'n' all thinking I can't afford to waste $30, but now I'm glad I've been sceptical / careful...
 
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@Monkey Man, mountain lion or higher. So shouod work with anything past mtn lion, no?. Sorry, im not a mac guy, but emulator maybe?.
I just guess since my old driving force gt wheel, a buddy has, still works on ps5, so he says anyway. And im guessing that was a ps3 release 🤷‍♂️
 
Yeah @Eegour, that's what the manual says, but as I said, I downloaded it and it does not run on OS10.13 High Sierra.

No problem 'though I hope 'cause apparently there's a site that will update directly. I just need to find a browser that'll work for it; mine (Safari) won't.

Thank you.
 
Hi all,

long time lurker to this thread, finally took the plunge to buy DD wheelbase and loadcell pedal set, and went with the G pro, in a large part thanks to this thread. I'm in the UK and it arrived last Thursday, took 8 days after ordering, which was good I think.

I was hoping my first post on here to be positive, I am happy with how the wheel and pedals feel but after two days I already had intermittent issue which is concerning. After playing AC or Raceroom for a couple of minutes, if go to the pause menu or exit out of the game back to desktop, there is sometimes a substantial ticking/clicking noise from within the base that is also making the wheel twitch ever so slightly. It's not great pausing your game or waiting for the next race and the wheel is twitching. I'm only playing on PC at the moment, so don't if it would be an issue on PS5 as well.

I'm using it with 8.1nm strength and following the Logitech recommended settings for AC and RaceRoom, with FF turned down on AC, so I'm not pushing it particularly hard. The firmware is up to date and I've tried different USB ports on my PC (it's plugged in directly). The issue does stop when I turn the base off and on again but it can then reappear. It's intermittent which makes it more perplexing.

Here is a clip, the first section of the video shows the wheel twitching and the second part shows the clicking/ticking noise coming from the base.


Thanks to @IfAndOr , I've think I've managed to isolate this problem to the Dampener settings on my wheelbase. It hasn't yet occurred with dampening turned off and turning dampening off when it happens stops it. I'm only running dampening at the limit suggested by Logitech's recommended settings.

@AshenGraey Have you had a chance to test?
 
Thanks to @IfAndOr , I've think I've managed to isolate this problem to the Dampener settings on my wheelbase. It hasn't yet occurred with dampening turned off and turning dampening off when it happens stops it. I'm only running dampening at the limit suggested by Logitech's recommended settings.

@AshenGraey Have you had a chance to test?

I just tested it. I played for about an hour after turning off the dampeners and I didn't notice the noise or the twitch either. I'll try it again another time when I have more time. Hopefully it doesn't do it again.
 
Yes 100 is the recommended setting for TF Audio. I lowered it to 90 to avoid the "skateboard wheel" feeling and it worked.

Also increased in game sensitivity to 10 for the races on wet track but not much difference... I remember a youtuber said that senstivity at 1 gave more detail than at 10, so it's anybody's guess.
 
This sums up my frustration... anybody's guess. This is supposed to be a pro line...and there is no professional support. If it wasn't for Rich being so active here...I would already be on to VNM/asatek. This is a shame, I came to Logitech because I'm involved with school teams, live events, etc. Our kids can earn scholarships and we are introducing Sim Racing at large scale events. So the results matter, the FFB questions matter at this level. I so want it to work with Logitech because their gear drives are the most accessible/durable entry level wheels. It would be a great upgrade path. We have 8-12 rig setups we've been running at events... not mom and pa...major US events. This year the plan is to have sim racing be a bigger player alongside the big games... money, prizes, etc

Literally need to make a decision on what pro grade hardware to upgrade our rigs with. I've been using Gpro line at home myself since October. So I'm not just a little frustrated, I can't recommend the product to schools. In no way does this feel like any type of priority amongst your longstanding pro ecosystem and it's lauded reputation.
 
I think that's a bit rough mate, FWIMBW.

These things are built like tanks so you'd think they'd be more than up to the task for the general public to use.

Worst-case scenario if you have no luck with support is of course to contact Rich right here in this thread and he'll do what he can.
 
My only frustration is the lack of Logitech Pro GT3 F1 style wheels. Don't get me wrong, the standard wheel is beautiful and of unquestionable quality. I've been using it for almost a year and there's no sign of wear. A new wheel would be an easy purchase for me, I believe 70% of users would buy this wheel.
 
My only frustration is the lack of Logitech Pro GT3 F1 style wheels. Don't get me wrong, the standard wheel is beautiful and of unquestionable quality. I've been using it for almost a year and there's no sign of wear. A new wheel would be an easy purchase for me, I believe 70% of users would buy this wheel.
150% missed opportunity. Especially with the drivehub, the wait time now is just translating to lost revenue. I finally caved on waiting and added a Thrustmaster TH8A to my rig and couldn’t be happier.

I see myself doing the same thing when this wheel gets released. Been waiting a long time and looks like others are gonna start making it to market.
 

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@Tommy moon it’s not clear what the exact issue is? Could you clarify please?
Rich,

First off this is not directed at you I think it's incredible how active you are. However, It feels like GT7 community is out on an island I guess. I understand a lot of the issues are with Sony which is why this is all the more important if I put a student in this who's trying to seriously compete.

Take Force Feedback....there is no reliable info/explanation. I often get clipping under trailbraking....seems to be worse when I set up a shorter heavy brake, but I'm not positive. Potentially related to truforce being overwhelmed but I'm not sure. Running ffb lower doesn't help...often makes it worse.

I'm told not to drive barefoot because I could short out the pedals. That if we don't use foam elastometer it could damage the brake. That if we slightly over screw in the base, with bolts that aren't supplied, it could damage the unit. Or this evening when I tried to adjust The pedal plates for the first time, only to find the screws are stripped.

Sometimes true force doesn't work, sometimes it does. Ironically, my friends that never updated with G-Hub and have the older slightly more in-depth settings available. Their wheels are far more consistent and reliable.

These are all little things, but people can lose hours trying to figure this stuff out on their own. If this was just me it wouldn't be a big deal, but schools, live events etc. At this point I may just have to pivot to a different ecosystem...which I really don't want to do...ugh

What's great about the g29 Is it solid as a rock, and there's a ton of supporting information out there. I still think this DD is the best kit on the console market hands down. So I'm just really frustrated.


@Tommy moon it’s not clear what the exact issue is? Could you clarify please?
 
Tommy, the bolt-length limits are well-documented - I can't remember exactly where, but I knew about this long before I bought my unit through simply looking around for info.

TF should always work. I don't recall anyone here's having had an issue where it didn't work at all. If a game doesn't support TF (most of the big ones like ACC, WRC, GT7 and I think iRacing do) then yeah, it'll be missing.

I haven't heard about the barefoot thing and have driven thusly several times without issue so I do find that surprising.

Sorry to hear about that clipping. Never happened to me and I suspect it's another rare thing. Rich might have something to say about that.

I agree that it's hands-down the best DD system on consoles. It's classy-looking, well-built and feels fantastic. Only thing missing is of course alternative-rim options, but it's a 100%-safe bet they'll appear some time soon I reckon.

Oh, and as far as schools' difficulties are concerned, you could put together a PDF pointing to the potential gotchas as well as of course walking through setup in a brief, logical manner. It goes without saying that you could include the software-setup parameter values you recommend as well. Rich's values on the Logitech site are a great place to start.

Good luck man.
 
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the FFB questions matter at this level.
The FFB questions you seem to be worried about in the post you quoted are related the GT7 and not specifically the G Pro. The same questions could be asked about any make of wheel, so I'm not sure what "professional support" you're after? Perhaps you should contact PD to ask what their setting options do. For many years that has indeed been "anyone's guess". Because as you say...
Take Force Feedback....there is no reliable info/explanation.
Clipping under braking, are you sure? Isn't that a GT thing to show loss of traction (ABS maybe). Same as the understeer judder. I don't get it in the games I play.

Trueforce sometimes missing. Again this can be GT related I believe. If a game has it, it always works for me.

Barefoot, well I suppose the chance of static build-up could be increased, especially in socks. But that would also go for any similar pedal set with HALL sensors. Probably best to wear thin soled footwear.

The foams you've got slightly back to front. The softer foam inserts are not recommended when the pedals are hard mounted in a rig. The greater pressure that can be achieved when mounted this way can eventually damage the foams. The elastomers are fine though.

The bolts have to have length limitations, which again is probably the same for other similar mounted wheels. And the reason they don't supply them is because they don't know the thickness of the wheel mount you'll be using. I bought the Logi edition Playseat Trophy and the appropriate bolts did come with that.

The pedal mount screws being stripped is indeed a problem. Although I've moved my pedal plates (and pedals) around on numerous occasions without issues.

Don't get frustrated. Ask questions on here if needed, there's always someone who can probably help. And there's always Rich. 🙂

This video from the man himself I found very useful when initially setting everything up
 
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Ha! @IfAndOr that's where I saw the bolt-length stipulations; it was Rich's video.

If I'd remembered I'd have recommended it for @Tommy moon myself.

Looks like we're on the same page re Tommy's "issues". Great, comprehensive response mate.
 
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