Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[racinglife85]

Some games will apply a soft lock at the limit of steering and some won’t. Now I’m sat here in an airport away from my setup, I can’t remember if GT7 does! Remember though that the key term is soft lock - even in those games that do set one, you can still steer past it if you try hard enough; there’s no physical block.

Same behaviour applies for G923.

Can you let me know when you can test it? in my case there is no soft lock. i want to understand if it's normal or if it's my base which has some problem

At least with my brand of wheel, it applies soft lock.

what wheel and base do you have?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

There’s a soft lock. Here’s the simple test: stop the car then turn the wheel to the angle specified on the OLED (NOT what you see with the animation in the game - that will usually stop before you reach the actual maximum steering angle). You’ll feel the soft lock.

 

[racinglife85]

There’s a soft lock. Here’s the simple test: stop the car then turn the wheel to the angle specified on the OLED (NOT what you see with the animation in the game - that will usually stop before you reach the actual maximum steering angle). You’ll feel the soft lock.

Do you mean the horizontal bar above the vertical bars which indicates throttle, brake etc? Anyway i don't use the cockpit view in GT7 so i never look at that animation

 

[LOGI_Rich]

I was referring to the cockpit steering animation, but the same applies to that bar with the red dot in it: that gets to the end of the bar way before the actual wheels stop turning. You can check this yourself by switching to exterior view and looking backwards.

 

[racinglife85]

I was referring to the cockpit steering animation, but the same applies to that bar with the red dot in it: that gets to the end of the bar way before the actual wheels stop turning. You can check this yourself by switching to exterior view and looking backwards.

No i meant the OLED on the base. You wrote to look at it and i asked if i have to look at the horizontal white bar placed above the throttle, brakes etc indicators on the OLED screen of the base.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

I meant to note the angle that was set on the OLED. i.e. if it’s set to 900 then you’ll need to turn 450 degrees in either direction; the white bar at the top of the OLED also applies as well though, as when you max that out in either direction then you hit the soft lock.

 

[racinglife85]

I meant to note the angle that was set on the OLED. i.e. if it’s set to 900 then you’ll need to turn 450 degrees in either direction; the white bar at the top of the OLED also applies as well though, as when you max that out in either direction then you hit the soft lock.

I have my base set to 1080 degress, like logitech suggested. But GT7 overwrite that settings anyway so i should experience a different soft lock based on the car i'm using. but i'm not sure that i ever experience this soft lock. i'll do some try asap and i'll let you know. thank you for now

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Yep, you'll feel it at whatever the angle is set to on the base. To be absolutely clear about the soft lock, once you understand how it works then you know there can't be a problem with the base if you have force feedback working. It works by the base setting an opposing spring force at the maximum torque capability of the base - like I said, it is not a physical stop, hence "soft" lock, so it's still possible to steer through it and beyond.

It's also worth noting that if the wheel is already emitting max torque before you hit the soft lock then you will struggle to feel it, because the base has no more torque to give. We get this a lot from people on the G-series wheels, where the basic centre spring when you're not in a game is running at max torque, so they think the soft lock isn't working (it is, they just can't feel it).

 

[racinglife85]

Yep, you'll feel it at whatever the angle is set to on the base. To be absolutely clear about the soft lock, once you understand how it works then you know there can't be a problem with the base if you have force feedback working. It works by the base setting an opposing spring force at the maximum torque capability of the base - like I said, it is not a physical stop, hence "soft" lock, so it's still possible to steer through it and beyond.

It's also worth noting that if the wheel is already emitting max torque before you hit the soft lock then you will struggle to feel it, because the base has no more torque to give. We get this a lot from people on the G-series wheels, where the basic centre spring when you're not in a game is running at max torque, so they think the soft lock isn't working (it is, they just can't feel it).

What do you mean with "when you are not in a game?". Plus, i didn't understood if the soft lock is dictated by the steering angle on the base or by the game. I mean, if I have the steering angle on the base set to 1080 degrees, should I feel the soft lock always at 1080 degrees or should I feel it based on the type of car I'm driving in GT7?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

It should normally reflect what is set on the Angle setting of the base. “When you’re not in a game” equals exactly what it says: on the Home Screen of the PlayStation or on the desktop of Windows: i.e. not actively running a game.

 

[racinglife85]

It should normally reflect what is set on the Angle setting of the base. “When you’re not in a game” equals exactly what it says: on the Home Screen of the PlayStation or on the desktop of Windows: i.e. not actively running a game.

Ok thank you for the explanation as always. This is what i wanted to know, i thought that it would reflect the angle setting of GT7 so if i drive a formula car i have a different steering angle than a GT car, this would be more realistic, but from what you said, it alway reflect the angle set on the base

 

[Skinny McLean]

Ok thank you for the explanation as always. This is what i wanted to know, i thought that it would reflect the angle setting of GT7 so if i drive a formula car i have a different steering angle than a GT car, this would be more realistic, but from what you said, it alway reflect the angle set on the base

Games can change that setting on the fly (and GT7 does do that) so it already works exactly like you just described with car-specific angles and locks.

 

[racinglife85]

Games can change that setting on the fly (and GT7 does do that) so it already works exactly like you just described with car-specific angles and locks.

But as I said I don't feel any softlock based on the type of car and Rich said that the softlock is calibrated on the wheelbase setting

 

[LOGI_Rich]

This is why I was asking you to not rely on the steering animation in the game - I'm thinking you're assuming that the angle must be much lower than it actually is. When GT7 sets it to a value then that is where the soft lock will be. You can always check what angle the game has set the wheel to by looking at the Angle option on the base.

 

[super_gt]

But as I said I don't feel any softlock based on the type of car and Rich said that the softlock is calibrated on the wheelbase setting

If you take a SF19 Super Formula and park it on a straight, level area and turn the steering wheel, don't you feel the softlock?
With this car you can also see when the tires stop turning, set GT7 in-game torque to 1 to feel the softlock more clearly.

 

[racinglife85]

This is why I was asking you to not rely on the steering animation in the game - I'm thinking you're assuming that the angle must be much lower than it actually is. When GT7 sets it to a value then that is where the soft lock will be. You can always check what angle the game has set the wheel to by looking at the Angle option on the base.

I don't look at the animation in the game, I don't use the cockpit view. Never. I just did different test with different cars and I see when they doesn't steer anymore, but still the g pro continue to steer. No matter the type of car I drive. This is really strange to me. It only lock when I manually change the value on the base. I've tried while I was on the main screen of the game. And it didn't seemed to be a soft-lock anyway since it was really hard to pass through and I clearly felt a buzz/vibration coming from the base through the wheel when I hit the soft lock. But I wasn't able to continue to move the wheel as you said. So, or I didn't understood what you said or the wheel/base doesn't behave like they should, I don't know.

If you take a SF19 Super Formula and park it on a straight, level area and turn the steering wheel, don't you feel the softlock?
With this car you can also see when the tires stop turning, set GT7 in-game torque to 1 to feel the softlock more clearly.

I already tried with other f1 cars. I'll try tomorrow with this one too and eventually I'll make a video

 

[LOGI_Rich]

I see when they doesn't steer anymore

It might be helpful if you can say where you’re seeing that they don’t steer any more.

 

[racinglife85]

It might be helpful if you can say where you’re seeing that they don’t steer any more.

Third person view, I move the camera and in the meantime I move the wheel. With formula cars I just use the cockpit view which let me see the wheels directly when I move the steering wheel

 

[Dragonwhisky]

@LOGI_Rich ,

Good morning sir,

I have this;

In a cart, waiting oh so breathlessly, to have a G-Pro/RS H-Gate shifter added to it. 🦋🙏 🍨🍒

 

[SPDN Stefano]

Don't hold your breath. You can't even order the McLaren formula style wheel which has been unveiled a long long time ago.

 

[Dragonwhisky]

Don't hold your breath. You can't even order the McLaren formula style wheel which has been unveiled a long long time ago.

Yeah, well, the whole breathlessly part is just an exaggeratedly melodramatic, lame attempt to tease a hint or two from Rich 'bout that h-gate. 'Course, those socks look to die for.

 

[RJ83]

I own my Logi Pro wheel for about 2.5 years now and mostly i played True forceless with it (AC and Dirt 2 and 3) but recently i have been getting into Dirt rally 2 and i am loving the True force with it! Really makes the wheel come more alive. Excellent feature.
I am slightly worried though those intense vibrations over time might losen that bolt on the quick release part of the base. I once saw a video of someone who cut down an allen wrench to be able to reach it to tighten it. But not worried enough to disable True force altogether!

 

[racinglife85]

I own my Logi Pro wheel for about 2.5 years now and mostly i played True forceless with it (AC and Dirt 2 and 3) but recently i have been getting into Dirt rally 2 and i am loving the True force with it! Really makes the wheel come more alive. Excellent feature.
I am slightly worried though those intense vibrations over time might losen that bolt on the quick release part of the base. I once saw a video of someone who cut down an allen wrench to be able to reach it to tighten it. But not worried enough to disable True force altogether!

i saw that video too. I use my wheel at 100 TF and 11NM so i hope too that it doesn't losen in the future. I wouldn't have any allen key like that to fix the problem eventually

 

[Mumster]

i saw that video too. I use my wheel at 100 TF and 11NM so i hope too that it doesn't losen in the future. I wouldn't have any allen key like that to fix the problem eventually

I bet they put a ton of that thread lock stuff on that bolt and it ain’t going anywhere.

 

[racinglife85]

I bet they put a ton of that thread lock stuff on that bolt and it ain’t going anywhere.

I really hope so.

@LOGI_Rich I would like to understand something. I have both the D-shaped wheel which comes with the g pro wheelbase and the rs hub. The problem is that the d-shaped wheel has a ffb a lot stronger than the RS hub. When i use the RS hub I have to increase the ffb strenght in the game to at least 2 points. Why?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

The attached wheel has no effect on the output of the torque from the base - there’s literally no mechanism for that to happen in the firmware.

Different wheel shapes and sizes can change the perception of the torque though…

 

[racinglife85]

The attached wheel has no effect on the output of the torque from the base - there’s literally no mechanism for that to happen in the firmware.

Different wheel shapes and sizes can change the perception of the torque though…

Thank you for the quick reply! My other wheel is this one: https://acelith.com/products/wheel-...PC+-+XBOX+-+PS)&si_id=58121081_49405711843662


I made a comparison with different cars and the d-shaped wheel is so much stronger than this. isn't that a big difference even if the steering wheel has a different shape and size?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

It’s impossible to say without objective figures that demonstrate this. You can check by switching the Home Screen to show torque, then use the same car on the same track on the same corner and see what values appear there.

But I’ll tell you now, it’s going to be the same values regardless of which wheel is attached 🙂

 

[Mumster]

Thank you for the quick reply! My other wheel is this one: https://acelith.com/products/wheel-mod-f30rs-for-logitech-rs-hub?variant=49405711843662&utm_source=back-in-stock&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=stock-notification&utm_content=MOD+-+Formula+F30RS+for+Logitech+RS+Hub+(2024)+(PC+-+XBOX+-+PS)&si_id=58121081_49405711843662


I made a comparison with different cars and the d-shaped wheel is so much stronger than this. isn't that a big difference even if the steering wheel has a different shape and size?

It probably has to do with the diameter of the wheel. When I use the Momo 290 it feels stronger than the Momo 320 cause I have more leverage with the 320 which make that one feel easier. Also the stiffness of the wheel can affect the how vibrations feel. I can feel slightly more detail on my MPI 310 than my Momo 320. Hope that helps.

The ai said it pretty well:
The stock D-shaped wheel (the 300mm one that comes with the DD Pro) feels stronger because it’s a shorter lever arm. The base motor puts out the same torque, but your hands are closer to the axis of rotation on the smaller D-shaped rim. That makes every force hit harder and more direct.

When you swap to the RS hub + a larger-diameter rim, you lengthen the lever. Same torque now feels softer and more progressive at your hands — which is why you have to crank the in-game Torque up by 2 points to get the same steering weight and detail.

Wheel weight/inertia also plays a role. A heavier wheel (like the 320) has more rotational inertia, which can slightly dampen quick force feedback transients — meaning fast, sharp FFB signals feel a bit softer or slower to respond compared to a lighter wheel. It’s subtle, but it contributes to why smaller, lighter wheels often feel more “alive” even at the same torque setting.

Stiffness plays a big role too. The stock D-shaped is quite rigid, so it transmits high-frequency vibrations and road detail with almost no damping. The RS hub setups (especially with rounder or more compliant rims) flex a tiny bit more, which smooths things out and makes the FFB feel less aggressive.

 

[racinglife85]

It’s impossible to say without objective figures that demonstrate this. You can check by switching the Home Screen to show torque, then use the same car on the same track on the same corner and see what values appear there.

But I’ll tell you now, it’s going to be the same values regardless of which wheel is attached 🙂

It probably has to do with the diameter of the wheel. When I use the Momo 290 it feels stronger than the Momo 320 cause I have more leverage with the 320 which make that one feel easier. Also the stiffness of the wheel can affect the how vibrations feel. I can feel slightly more detail on my MPI 310 than my Momo 320. Hope that helps.

The ai said it pretty well:
The stock D-shaped wheel (the 300mm one that comes with the DD Pro) feels stronger because it’s a shorter lever arm. The base motor puts out the same torque, but your hands are closer to the axis of rotation on the smaller D-shaped rim. That makes every force hit harder and more direct.

When you swap to the RS hub + a larger-diameter rim, you lengthen the lever. Same torque now feels softer and more progressive at your hands — which is why you have to crank the in-game Torque up by 2 points to get the same steering weight and detail.

Wheel weight/inertia also plays a role. A heavier wheel (like the 320) has more rotational inertia, which can slightly dampen quick force feedback transients — meaning fast, sharp FFB signals feel a bit softer or slower to respond compared to a lighter wheel. It’s subtle, but it contributes to why smaller, lighter wheels often feel more “alive” even at the same torque setting.

Stiffness plays a big role too. The stock D-shaped is quite rigid, so it transmits high-frequency vibrations and road detail with almost no damping. The RS hub setups (especially with rounder or more compliant rims) flex a tiny bit more, which smooths things out and makes the FFB feel less aggressive.

Got it thank you both. I'll try to check the torque level as Rich suggested, just to be sure 👍