Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[Serum]

Hey guys, just dropping in to offer some perspective and feedback. As an owner and user of both the Logitech G Pro(former aftwr 2 years) and Fanatec DD Extreme with various rims...

The Logitech is by far your best value and the performance difference is minimal at best.

And...the Logitech G Pro Wheel rim is on par with Fanatec "Podium" rims in feel and quality - comparing against Podium R300, Maybe better.

Logitech is top tier for PS5,.without those G29 emulator gadgets.lol.

I agree and wish I went Logitech. I purchased the Fanatec with Asseto for pc in mind, but still no pc lol.

Speaking specifically about drifting on GT7 with both wheels, the ffb as it pertains to self steering is night and day. My Logitech (g27 w/ ps4) self steered like the steering wheel does in your favorite drifter’s in car footage. I mean it just whips, quickly and smoothly.

My fanatec dd+pro is LAZY. I can’t just let the wheel slide through my fingers, I have to help it. I’ve played with the settings and nothing has worked. I get by but I really regret my decision.

 

[EricTheActor]

The new updated momo pro 320 wheel is fantastic! Feels great in your hands. Thumb notches are nice and deep and the knots above really keep your thumbs planted down in. Very happy with it.

For all you flex freaks out there I can honestly say this updated wheel has zero flex. I mean 0.0 flex. It’s completely reinforced now with the design change. It’s now solid, yet it’s still very lightweight. Fun wheel.

 

[The_Antman_]

@LOGI_Rich - I am what I consider a newer driver - still learning and I'm old at 62 IMO

I have been having a trailbraking issue using the logitech G pro wheel and pedals-

My issue is trailbraking when it needs to be a longer drawn out braking pattern.

I was using the small yellowish white with orange bottom cushion first - then the red cushion - and last the brown. I love the feel of this combo and oressure required but no matter how hard I tried My trailbrake was shaped like and upside down U WITH no elongated trail (hope that makes sense)

Physically i feel as if I am braking in a way that should represent the braking pattern I am attempting to perform - but I am just unable to achieve it - The brake just drops off fast.

I played with the elastomers (cushions as I call them) and I can now trailbrake but I do not like the softness of the brake. I currently am using small white orange first - then yellow - last brown..... i basically swapped out the red for yellow if memory serves me correctly- but I tried about every combo I could think of.....

any thoughts on how to achieve a longer throw while achieving a variation in psi required throughout the range? the brake feels soft throughout from 0-100% brake and no change in feel..... so instead of feeling the pressure change - I need to now memorize leg and ankle position.

Ant

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Hi there.

This sounds like it's your first foray into load cell-based pedals? Either way, we should focus on your last statement about needing to memorise leg/ankle position... because this is most assuredly no longer the case.

Regardless of whether you set the pedal to be softer with more travel or harder with far less travel, the travel/feel has zero impact on the sensing. It's 100% pressure-based. It sounds like you're still relying on the deflection-based sensing that you've previously developed muscle memory for; this is the part that you need to train your brain away from. Focus less on trying to achieve a certain amount of deflection when you release to begin trail braking and instead focus on the amount of pressure you're releasing by. Once you get used to it, it's far easier to achieve the same level of pressure every time for most people (because it's easier to achieve muscle memory for pressure than it is deflection... at least for most people).

This is likely one of the reasons that so many people prefer load cell brakes to be stiffer, because they then only have to focus on pressure. There is of course usually some travel still there, but it's small enough that they're no longer focusing on it.

 

[The_Antman_]

hmmm Not 100% sure I was able to explain the issue. The only pedal / wheel combo I have used is the G Pro - I had zero driving experience until the PS5 Pro came out and I decided to get into Sim Racing .....

My issue is I am used to the feel of the much stiffer and shorter travel - But was unable to achieve the trail brake as the throw was so short the second I released to trail brake it just dropped out - for months I have been trying unsuccessfully.

I thought with the three elastamers I shouod feel the change in pressure required as each of the three elastamers were compressed throughout the braking travel - thats what I was referring too ..... it just feels like a soft sponge throughout the travel.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Oh, I understood the issue, but just focusing on some of the things you say because I think they're ultimately why you may be struggling 😊

There's a change in the force curve required to compress the elastomers, definitely, because it does ramp up as you press harder, but if you're looking for a very clear difference between each stage then they won't provide that. It is there, but it's not designed to be ultra distinct.

My advice still stands though, because your description still sounds like you're basing things on pedal travel, rather than pressure. One thing that might help, depending on how your pedals are mounted, is increasing the brake force setting. This will naturally widen the window of force needed to achieve 0-100% axis output. The same amount of relaxing of force in your foot will consequently result in a smaller change in the axis output.

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

@The_Antman_

Make sure your pedals are calibrated correctly in gt7 using the menu in the video.

 

[The_Antman_]

@Oshawa-Joe thank u Mr Joe appreciate the assistance ...... I am sure at some point I will build up the experience and feel to get the brake back to limited travel and firmness. But for now I need the travel and hate the soft feel of the brake.

Ant

 

[NicoGmbh]

Hi everyone,
I may not be attentive enough, but in your opinion, is it possible (with gt7) to vary the replay cameras with the steering wheel controls?
For my part, I have to take dualsense in hand, which is a shame when you’re in VR.

 

[CKU_87]

So after two years of regular use I still enjoy and love my G Pro wheelbase and pedals. Occasionally I come by and read the latest postings, but haven't posted here for a while and thought I might leave a quick thumbs up for this base and pedals and of course for @LOGI_Rich

I just ordered the new V2 inverted pedal rack for my P1X Pro...lets see how that goes. Its the first changes on my rig for a while now...

 

[preimumdude]

I don't know if they'll ever see this but I wanted to say thank to FlashSimG for the fantastic write-up regarding the 'three dots' issue. My experience has been nearly identical. I bought the Pro wheel base/pedals a few weeks after release and have been, for the most part, extremely satisfied with the experience.

I also used it for hundreds of hours over that time period and everything was perfect until about 6 months ago when I started getting the failure to initialize. Trying to isolate the issue and coming up with some order of operations that would make it function felt like trying to learn an intricate dance. Ultimately I discovered that if I turned it off when done with it and unplugged the power cord it would generally function correctly the next time I used it.

In searching for information about the issue I found discussion relating to potential issues with the cables. Mine were a little worse for wear after several years of use, so I ordered 2 sets of the official USB cables from Logitech. This was about a month ago. Once they were installed the unit worked like a charm. I could power it off, change wheels, and then it would power up again immediately without issue. I naively thought that I had solved the problem. That lasted for about 2 weeks and it started happening again. Very discouraging.

As I write this my friend is texting me asking me if I want to join him in a race, and I'm just staring at my wheel in frustration as it is misbehaving. I've seen the follow-up posts from Logi_Rich about possible ground loop issues, but man, I'm not an electrician. I'm just a nerd who wants to drive fake cars.

 

[racinglife85]

I bought the mvh studios wheel and it's simply amazing. wish logitech took care of your sim-racing ecosystem more

 

[Met Entso]

Hi everyone,
I may not be attentive enough, but in your opinion, is it possible (with gt7) to vary the replay cameras with the steering wheel controls?
For my part, I have to take dualsense in hand, which is a shame when you’re in VR.

Yes you can assign any button on the wheel to "change view" I think it is.

 

[WheelmanSteve]

Does anyone have a recommendation for G-Pro wheel settings for FH5 on PS5? I did not see anything on the recommended wheel settings published by Logitech. I tried the PC settings, and they were basically unusable. (I had a G29, and FH5 was decent, so that was worth a shot.)

 

[xaviersim]

Title: Logitech G PRO Wheel – almost no dynamic FFB in PRO mode after Windows reinstall, G923 mode works

Hi,

I’m trying to understand a strange FFB problem with my Logitech G PRO Racing Wheel on PC.

The wheel itself appears completely healthy and can still produce full torque, but since reinstalling Windows the FFB does not initialize correctly in PRO mode.

System / history

• Logitech G PRO Racing Wheel
• Previously working perfectly on Windows 11 24H2 build 26100.6899
• Clean Windows reinstall
• Now running Windows 11 Pro 25H2 build 26200.9168
• Wheel firmware had already been updated through G HUB before the Windows reinstall
• Same games and same in-game settings that worked correctly before
• G HUB correctly detects the wheel and synchronizes settings
• Wheel itself reports 11 Nm

What happens in PRO mode

The wheel is detected normally. Steering, buttons, pedals, etc. all work.

The wheel also has resistance — it can feel quite heavy/solid — so the motor is clearly active. However, the actual dynamic FFB is almost absent. The wheel does not feel “alive” at all.

In Dirt Rally 2.0, I can feel a little vibration/road or off-track effect, but very gently. The strong self-aligning torque, surface detail, impacts, weight transfer, etc. are basically missing.

F1 25 behaves similarly: there is some resistance/effect, but the real strong dynamic FFB that I had before reinstalling Windows is missing.

Interesting difference between Dirt Rally 2.0 and F1 25

In Dirt Rally 2.0, while the game is running in the bad/weak state, if I:

1. unplug the power connector from the wheelbase,
2. reconnect it,
3. turn the base back on with the red button,

the wheel immediately comes back to life and the FFB is excellent again — strong, detailed and exactly as I remember it.

So the base is clearly still capable of producing its normal torque.

However, F1 25 is different: restarting/power-cycling the wheel while F1 is already running does not restore the proper FFB in the same way. F1 seems not to recover/reacquire the wheel correctly after the restart.

G923 compatibility mode

I then switched the PRO Wheel from PRO compatibility mode to G923 mode.

The wheelbase automatically restarts when applying that change, so initially I wasn’t sure whether the improvement came from G923 mode itself or simply from the base restart.

However, in G923 mode:

• Dirt Rally 2.0 works properly
• FFB is strong and alive
• I can quit Dirt and launch F1 25 without restarting or unplugging the wheel
• F1 25 then also works properly, with strong normal FFB

So at present G923 compatibility mode appears to be a reliable workaround, whereas PRO mode is not.

Driver troubleshooting already performed

I completely reinstalled G HUB.

I also manually checked Logitech’s DirectInput FFB driver using:

di_ffb_manager.exe -s

All four components report Installed:

• HID++ 32-bit
• HID++ 64-bit
• Jerry 32-bit
• Jerry 64-bit

I then forced a reinstall using:

di_ffb_manager.exe -i -p .

The wheel briefly moved/reinitialized during this operation, but after rebooting the PRO-mode FFB problem remained unchanged.

Why I suspect software rather than hardware

The wheel can still produce full, powerful FFB once it is correctly initialized, particularly in G923 mode or after the Dirt Rally power-cycle workaround.

The problem appeared immediately after moving from the previously working Windows 11 24H2 installation to the fresh 25H2 installation.

G HUB also continues to communicate perfectly with the base and can change the Strength setting, including 11 Nm.

Has anyone seen this specifically on the G PRO Wheel with Windows 11 25H2 / build 26200.9168?

And if Logitech staff see this: could this be related to the recently acknowledged Windows/G HUB wheel issues, or is there a separate problem with the PRO Wheel’s native PRO-mode DirectInput initialization?

I’m happy to provide G HUB logs or run additional tests if useful.