Logitech G27 Alignment from 1.01 to 1.02 Ruined

  • Thread starter Fredzy
  • 16 comments
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1,325
United States
PA
FredzyN2
I searched around a bit but haven't seen much regarding G27 alignment in GT6.

I played about 1/4 of the way through the game at version 1.01 and only recall my wheel going out of alignment once or twice. By "out of alignment" I mean when the wheel no longer returns to center when the front wheels are pointed straight. This usually happens after making fast corrections, like when drifting. I then have to unplug the wheel from the PS3 and plug it back in, it does it's little spinny routine and resets back to normal.

Now at 1.02, I have to do this reset of the wheel after every single race, often a few times throughout a race as the alignment gets so bad.

Again, I'm certain this wasn't the case in 1.01 because I recall feeling so thankful that this was improved drastically over GT5, where I would have to reset after every couple of races. NOPE. Can't leave well enough alone, eh PD???

So my question - has anyone else dealt with this? Are there some wheel settings that can improve this? I never play with any of that.

Thanks.
 
66
red_sky1
You can download a g27/g25 program on your pc.

Hook everything up and update it.

If this doesn't solve it I have no clue
This happen to me and that's how I fixed it but I seen people on youtube that had no fix at all so your est luck is to try that as of now

I also downloaded r factor lite version to test also
 
66
red_sky1
I searched around a bit but haven't seen much regarding G27 alignment in GT6.

I played about 1/4 of the way through the game at version 1.01 and only recall my wheel going out of alignment once or twice. By "out of alignment" I mean when the wheel no longer returns to center when the front wheels are pointed straight. This usually happens after making fast corrections, like when drifting. I then have to unplug the wheel from the PS3 and plug it back in, it does it's little spinny routine and resets back to normal.

Now at 1.02, I have to do this reset of the wheel after every single race, often a few times throughout a race as the alignment gets so bad.

Again, I'm certain this wasn't the case in 1.01 because I recall feeling so thankful that this was improved drastically over GT5, where I would have to reset after every couple of races. NOPE. Can't leave well enough alone, eh PD???

So my question - has anyone else dealt with this? Are there some wheel settings that can improve this? I never play with any of that.

Thanks.
Also might be your ac adapter
 
12,019
United States
Indianapolis
BrandonW77
Yes, be careful. I had this exact thing happen, it's a cracked little wheel inside. I believe it's called an optical sensor wheel, or something. It's a common fault on G27's, you might need to order a new part. There are lots of small screws and wires and circuit boards, I ended up damaging something during the process and it died. I now have a Fanatec 911 GT3.
 
4,280
United States
Say What Again, I dare you!
Fastfox400
I'm glad I dont have to worry about the optical sensor issues anymore. But there is a update for the firmware.
 
18
Sweden
Gothenburg
Yakimah
I had the same problem a few weeks ago, it was indeed the plastic sensor wheel that had broke. A few bolts had also come loose since they were mounted without thread lock. This may actually have been the cause of the broken wheel. Naughty Logitech...

I followed this guide here and here to epoxy the optical wheel together and it worked like a charm. Just be very methodical and I don't think you will have any problems. Just be sure to use medium strength thread lock when bolts are mounted to metal. If all G27's are assembled like mine it's not a question of if they will break, it's when they will break.
 

CBH

(Banned)
7,938
Australia
Adelaide
I searched around a bit but haven't seen much regarding G27 alignment in GT6.

I played about 1/4 of the way through the game at version 1.01 and only recall my wheel going out of alignment once or twice. By "out of alignment" I mean when the wheel no longer returns to center when the front wheels are pointed straight. This usually happens after making fast corrections, like when drifting. I then have to unplug the wheel from the PS3 and plug it back in, it does it's little spinny routine and resets back to normal.

Now at 1.02, I have to do this reset of the wheel after every single race, often a few times throughout a race as the alignment gets so bad.

Again, I'm certain this wasn't the case in 1.01 because I recall feeling so thankful that this was improved drastically over GT5, where I would have to reset after every couple of races. NOPE. Can't leave well enough alone, eh PD???

So my question - has anyone else dealt with this? Are there some wheel settings that can improve this? I never play with any of that.

Thanks.
How old is your G27, I have not had any problems with my G27 like what your having mine is 1 year old.
 
1,325
United States
PA
FredzyN2
Its not an easy job, be careful.

Unless you're a pro, then go nuts :).
Heh. I had a few beers last night and decided to go at it without the tutorials :lol: Miraculously, my G27 is back to working like a charm! A few beers steadies the hands and improves my fine electronics repair performance :cheers: but for sure, this is NOT a novice repair.

I found that my encoder wheel was cracked (three radial cracks) but was still pretty tight on the shaft. I epoxied it up good anyhow as a preventative measure.

What I believe was the real cause of my misalignment was the plastic base that the optical encoder circuit board mounts to being loose on the FFB motor base. That being able to giggle slightly will knock the alignment out, and as Yakimah mentioned the screws holding it could really use some thread lock. I figure maybe they don't thread lock from the factory since those screws go down into the motor and they want to avoid it getting places it shouldn't be? I was careful with it.

How old is your G27, I have not had any problems with my G27 like what your having mine is 1 year old.

I've been using it since 2010, so it's seen some miles. Watch out, this seems very likely to happen to anyone who uses their wheel a lot. I've had alignment problems since maybe early 2011.

I think I'm gonna look into the firmware update for the heck of it. Maybe it will fix the little issue where the brake pedal takes a second or two to react for the first time after being plugged in 👍
 
2,000
Canada
Kanata, Ontario
TakumiFuji01
Should of got the brass optical encoder. Got it and work like a charm BUT sometimes the crack encoder can be a go if you just slide it down a bit near the black sensor on the optical board because...well let's see..

ALRIGHT so I had 3 G27s before..My first one, I had since Dec 2012 which had that green box design. The wheel was running strong up to around maybe Summer 2012 or Sept 2012 where the center problem occurred. Decided to get the brass encoder, accidentally ripped the encoder cable (black one but my old man manage to re-solder it back xD), and calibration was good and had no more calibration problems + translation movement felt better :) But one day...I accidentally plugged it in one of the defective USBs on my desktop PC which caused to Short Circuit :( so for a month, no racing.

Around last week (Dec. 21/2013, my birthday), I got a new one from CanadaComputers for about $259 + 13% Tax. Opened it up because I didnt want to deal with encoder problems but got yelled at because I opened it on the same day I got it and I know it was a wrong move. There was a in-store 15 day direct replacement so my old man brought it and they accepted it even though I opened it! Well..I accidentally bent the silver-ish color sensor on the optical board BECAUSE...it turns out they use a different design for the optical board. The G27s that came with the green box has a beige and green color on the optical board while the ones that has a black box (which I have now) has both green on each side & seems a bit re-designed. Also I opened up the replacement one TOO but it actually had a crack in the encoder so there's an official reason this time.

I tried using the brass encoder BUT it didn't calibrate o.O and I notice that the sensors on the were a bit far apart than the old optical board's sensors. So I put back the cracked encoder but made sure it was closer to the black sensor, put it back together blah blah and works new and no more center problems until then. I know I should of put glue (Epoxy) but its not having a problem now. But yeah...
 
1,325
United States
PA
FredzyN2
Geeze man, it sounds like you should have just invested in that Thrustmaster wheel from the get-go :lol:

Interesting though that you mention the revised design. I mean, that was the biggest thing on my mind also - surely they fixed this as of late.

You mention a green box as the old design and black as the new - do you mean the plastic shroud that covers the optical encoder etc? My wheel was from early 2010, had a black shroud and green/tan chip board. The encoder wheel design does not sound like it was improved... strange.

I wonder - did you notice whether it looked like the structure that fastens to the motor and holds the optical board in place was redesigned? That little bracket coming loose was my main problem - though the wheel would have probably broken completely after a few hundred more heat/cool cycles given how cracked up it was.
 
2,000
Canada
Kanata, Ontario
TakumiFuji01
Geeze man, it sounds like you should have just invested in that Thrustmaster wheel from the get-go :lol:

Interesting though that you mention the revised design. I mean, that was the biggest thing on my mind also - surely they fixed this as of late.

You mention a green box as the old design and black as the new - do you mean the plastic shroud that covers the optical encoder etc? My wheel was from early 2010, had a black shroud and green/tan chip board. The encoder wheel design does not sound like it was improved... strange.

I wonder - did you notice whether it looked like the structure that fastens to the motor and holds the optical board in place was redesigned? That little bracket coming loose was my main problem - though the wheel would have probably broken completely after a few hundred more heat/cool cycles given how cracked up it was.
Yeah. Under that shroud, the optical board design is quite different. Nothing much was re-designed other than that. But the logos and font changed a bit compared to the old one haha
 
2,000
Canada
Kanata, Ontario
TakumiFuji01
Also I noticed that when the sensor broke on the new wheel before I got the new replacement, I tried using the old encoder board. It would calibrate successfully BUT when I used it, it went to 270 degrees max even with 900 setting on. There's some compatibility issues with the old and the new o.O
 
2,000
Canada
Kanata, Ontario
TakumiFuji01
Geeze man, it sounds like you should have just invested in that Thrustmaster wheel from the get-go :lol:

Interesting though that you mention the revised design. I mean, that was the biggest thing on my mind also - surely they fixed this as of late.

You mention a green box as the old design and black as the new - do you mean the plastic shroud that covers the optical encoder etc? My wheel was from early 2010, had a black shroud and green/tan chip board. The encoder wheel design does not sound like it was improved... strange.

I wonder - did you notice whether it looked like the structure that fastens to the motor and holds the optical board in place was redesigned? That little bracket coming loose was my main problem - though the wheel would have probably broken completely after a few hundred more heat/cool cycles given how cracked up it was.
There was ALSO one big change that I didn't pay attention to until now!
The optical encoder itself has changed! Spokes and holes been decreased to avoid center problems when cracks appear. The firmware it self changed so reason why old parts can't be used :(

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