Logitech G27 Racing Wheel Force Feedback Problem

  • Thread starter danbojte
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danbojte

danbojte

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danbojte
Hi friends,

I have the wheel since 2012 and I've used it almost everyday and it worked just perfectly.
For some time, I've observed that when it's cold (just plugged in or after longer standby between races and not being used), and I start a race and turn the wheel, the FFB is very...I don't know how to explain exactly, jerky, it turns in steps, it's not smooth. :nervous:

After a few minutes (10 maybe) of racing, after it warms up I think, all is good and it turns smooth again, like it was before this issue.

Have anybody experienced this behaviour or it happened to me only? Any good advice is very welcomed. :scared: :(
 
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Crack optical encoder & the screws beneath the optical encoder are loose. Tighten it two screws up and get a brass encoder. I assume your G27 came in a green box (had the green and the current black box version).
 
TakumiFuji01
Crack optical encoder & the screws beneath the optical encoder are loose. Tighten it two screws up and get a brass encoder. I assume your G27 came in a green box (had the green and the current black box version).
Click to expand...

Sorry for buttin in but where do I get the brass encoder. I live in Australia.
 
TakumiFuji01
Crack optical encoder & the screws beneath the optical encoder are loose. Tighten it two screws up and get a brass encoder. I assume your G27 came in a green box (had the green and the current black box version).
Click to expand...
Oh, man! :( :nervous:

Bad luck. Anyway, thank you very much for your help. 👍
 
Not to be rude but this sounds like it has nothing to do with the encoder wheel at all, does you wheel lose calibration? if it doesn't, forget what TakumiFuji01 has said. I had a encoder wheel go bad and this doesn't sound like one at all.

My guess would be that the brushes in the motors could be worn down. Which could make it hard to complete the circuit, but once warm the metal expands and makes "better" contact, which could explain why it happens when cold.

I had an old G25 which went bad due to the brushes in the motor. It felt similar to how you described it. It was jerky like the motors were getting intermittent power (on off on off), I initially thought it was feedback for understeer. After opening up the wheel and the motor I found a brush that was ground down to almost nothing, it had overheated the copper, lost its temper, and bent back to the point where it wasn't touching the commutator.
When my G25 went bad I didn't run it long enough to see if it got better after 10 minutes, but I'm curious now I wonder If mine did the same.

If I were you I'd live with it before doing anything drastic.


TL DR: Your wheel is likely on its last legs (bad motor) but just live with it until it breaks because replacing the motor is extremely difficult (difficult to find specialty electric motor). Your best bet is to buy another used g25 for its parts and hope its motors are good if you are to attempt to fix it.

Heres a link to my thread when I dealt with this, Mr basher even chimed in and he's a pro!
 
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grog
Not to be rude but this sounds like it has nothing to do with the encoder wheel at all, does you wheel lose calibration? if it doesn't, forget what TakumiFuji01 has said. I had a encoder wheel go bad and this doesn't sound like one at all.

My guess would be that the brushes in the motors could be worn down. Which could make it hard to complete the circuit, but once warm the metal expands and makes "better" contact, which could explain why it happens when cold.

I had an old G25 which went bad due to the brushes in the motor. It felt similar to how you described it. It was jerky like the motors were getting intermittent power (on off on off), I initially thought it was feedback for understeer. After opening up the wheel and the motor I found a brush that was ground down to almost nothing, it had overheated the copper, lost its temper, and bent back to the point where it wasn't touching the commutator.
When my G25 went bad I didn't run it long enough to see if it got better after 10 minutes, but I'm curious now I wonder If mine did the same.

If I were you I'd live with it before doing anything drastic.


TL DR: Your wheel is likely on its last legs (bad motor) but just live with it until it breaks because replacing the motor is extremely difficult (difficult to find specialty electric motor). Your best bet is to buy another used g25 for its parts and hope its motors are good if you are to attempt to fix it.

Hers a link to my thread when I dealt with this, Mr basher even chimed in and he's a pro!
Click to expand...
Hi grog,

Well pointed, it doesn't losing calibration so it's not the optical encoder the cause.
I've tightened that screw described in another thread and nothing has changed in a good way.

Sadly it looks like you're right and the motor is dying slowly. :(
I'm very disappointed and I just don't know...no comment.

Thank you very much for your help! 👍
 
OdeFinn
There is so many sub areas where to search, link is working but not directing to any of those, use search on there, maybe digging under http://www.surplustraders.net/categories/motors.html helps :)
Click to expand...
Thank you for the help but this is all what I got:

Forbidden
You don't have permission to access /categories/motors.html on this server.

Additionally, a 403 Forbidden error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.

Apache/2.2.27 (Unix) mod_ssl/2.2.27 OpenSSL/1.0.1e-fips mod_bwlimited/1.4 Server at www.surplustraders.net Port 80
Click to expand...
 
grog
Not to be rude but this sounds like it has nothing to do with the encoder wheel at all, does you wheel lose calibration? if it doesn't, forget what TakumiFuji01 has said. I had a encoder wheel go bad and this doesn't sound like one at all.

My guess would be that the brushes in the motors could be worn down. Which could make it hard to complete the circuit, but once warm the metal expands and makes "better" contact, which could explain why it happens when cold.

I had an old G25 which went bad due to the brushes in the motor. It felt similar to how you described it. It was jerky like the motors were getting intermittent power (on off on off), I initially thought it was feedback for understeer. After opening up the wheel and the motor I found a brush that was ground down to almost nothing, it had overheated the copper, lost its temper, and bent back to the point where it wasn't touching the commutator.
When my G25 went bad I didn't run it long enough to see if it got better after 10 minutes, but I'm curious now I wonder If mine did the same.

If I were you I'd live with it before doing anything drastic.


TL DR: Your wheel is likely on its last legs (bad motor) but just live with it until it breaks because replacing the motor is extremely difficult (difficult to find specialty electric motor). Your best bet is to buy another used g25 for its parts and hope its motors are good if you are to attempt to fix it.

Heres a link to my thread when I dealt with this, Mr basher even chimed in and he's a pro!
Click to expand...

Yes that is certainly possible. Sometimes running the motors at high RPMs can help clear out debris too.
 
danbojte
If I may, how can that be done?
Click to expand...

You don't have to disassemble and remove the FFB motors. Just power cycle the wheel a few times and in-use rotate the rim rapidly. If things are not too bad this can help. Compare to slow steering movements and holding against spring forces. If it is really bad and so does not respond to the aforementioned, then disassembly and then cleaning re-breaking-in the motors would be needed.
 
Hi! Thank you all for the support. I don't know, but somehow it repaired itself. I've just continued to use it and now it's working perfectly again. I don't know what the problem was, maybe some "garbage" which has gone... I'm happy again! :)

Edit: Actually, it never was like it should be again, with a lot up and downs periodically. After two years of suffering I've ordered today my new wheel - T300 Ferrari Integral Racing Wheel Alcantara Edition. :cheers:
 
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