Logitech RS50 | Settings and tips

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LOGI_Rich
Disconnect the USB cable from the PS5 and connect it to the PC. Make sure you choose PC mode on the OLED when your power the base on and it’ll show up in G HUB then, provided you’re running the latest version - 2025.8.

There’s no new firmware updates yet but there is one coming in the next release, which should be available for everyone by the start of December.
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Hallo, ich habe das jetzt mal versucht, bekomme keine Verbindung zwischen der Base und dem PC und G Hub
 
Which version of G HUB do you have installed and are you definitely choosing PC on the OLED screen when you power the base on?

Do you have the USB C connection in the base and the USB A connection at the other end of the cable connected to the PC? This might sound like an obvious question but I have experienced people trying to connect a USB A to A cable before, using the A ports on the base, which won’t work.

Finally, is it a windows PC or Mac?
 
Which version of G HUB do you have installed, and when you turn on the base, do you definitely select the PC on the OLED screen? I have set it up that way.

I have USB-C on the base and USB-A on the Windows PC.

Latest problem: Assetto Corsa Comp. recognizes the pedals but not the wheel, which means I can't steer.
 
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I've already solved the problem with ACC. Just set compatibility to “Pro” on the base and it works. Thanks.
 
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LOGI_Rich
Keep running it in PS4 mode - no need to turn it off before a race. Please let me know if you get any further issues and also if you don't :-)
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Had updated all firmware and in the middle of the race the vibration died. It's like I ended up driving a hovercraft that was floating. There was no sensation of the curbs or bumps in the road but the wheel was still stiff to turn (albeit smooooooth). This also happened in the middle of a race..
 
@iT9 please confirm the version number of G HUB.
1762763351820.webp


You won't be on that version yet, but either way I need to know.


@A_Higher_Place that's a separate issue that should be addressed by the firmware update that's coming out by the start of December.
 
LOGI_Rich
@iT9 please confirm the version number of G HUB.
View attachment 1491096

You won't be on that version yet, but either way I need to know.


@A_Higher_Place that's a separate issue that should be addressed by the firmware update that's coming out by the start of December.
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Glad to hear. The only fix for that seemed to be restarting the game itself and not just the wheel.

PS4 mode seems to be the way to go for now. Does it mean much difference for a PS5 user?
 
What colour is the LED on the Wheel? It should be green if you're in PC mode...

Have you tried every USB port on the PC?
 
@LOGI_Rich Hi, i have the RS50 wheel and RS pedals.
Wanted to ask if this is normal that the RS Pedal Linerarity is adjustable on the Ghub software on PC under the Ghub profile but when is switched to PS5 the profile dissapears and i can only use the normal 5 profiles where the brake pedal linearity is completely different and feels off.

On the PS profiles the RS brake pedal has a very "narrow" range between 0 and 100% brake pressure and needs a significant force to even begin at 0% and there is no setting where i can adjust the linearity. When reducing brake force setting on the wheel it still needs a heavy force to start braking, it just goes faster to 100% once it reaches that point.
I have even changed out one of the rubber inserts for a solid one. When braking the other 2 rubbers are fully compressed and it still shows 0% braking force in gt7

And when connected to PC and with the Ghub profile i can depress the brake pedal with my little finger and it will show braking force so it is much more sensitive here.

Right now in gt7 it feels extremely hard to consistently brake 25% 50% 75% because the window is so small. I dont have that problem in iRacing where i use my Ghub profile
 
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Hi there. I’m away from my PC right now (otherwise I’d send a more complete answer with screen grabs), but this sounds more like a game setting issue. You can save curves into the pedals themselves in G HUB, but if you’d done that then it would have the same behaviour there as well.

Two things to check:

1. Does it do the same thing in other titles on PlayStation?
2. Have you set a dead zone in GT7’s wheel config screen?
 
LOGI_Rich
Hi there. I’m away from my PC right now (otherwise I’d send a more complete answer with screen grabs), but this sounds more like a game setting issue. You can save curves into the pedals themselves in G HUB, but if you’d done that then it would have the same behaviour there as well.

Two things to check:

1. Does it do the same thing in other titles on PlayStation?
2. Have you set a dead zone in GT7’s wheel config screen?
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Thank you for the fast answer
I had already set the beginning deadzone in gt7 to 0% but nvm i just fixed it :D
I did it by connecting ONLY the pedals to my PC (not connected to RS50 base) and in Ghub i got the option at the bottom to "save on device". I did not have this option when the pedals were connected to the base. Now i have the settings and linearity i wanted on gt7
 
I just got the RS50 wheel and RS pedals and am trying different configurations together with GT7. Is it correct that the Strength setting on the wheel has precedence over the FFB setting in GT7? So crank up the setting in GT7 and lower it to an appropriate level on the wheel?

Also, I wonder if anyone else has the same phenomena as me with the wheel not centring but is slightly off to the left. It also shows in the game with -1,5 deg. Faulty unit?

IMG_9398.webp
 
Best advice is to leave the wheel strength alone for GT7 and just use the in game setting.

You can recalibrate the centre position of the wheel by connecting it to a PC running G HUB. There’s a calibration function in the settings screen where the firmware versions are displayed.
 
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LOGI_Rich
Best advice is to leave the wheel strength alone for GT7 and just use the in game setting.

You can recalibrate the centre position of the wheel by connecting it to a PC running G HUB. There’s a calibration function in the settings screen where the firmware versions are displayed.
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Ok, thank you. I will set the FFB in GT7. The advantage to change in on the wheel is that I can set up a profile for my son with lower strength and it would be easy for him to change when using my account in the game. It's also good when changing between different type of cars. Just curious, what is the disadvantage to do it the other way around?

Regarding the wheel, I will try to recalibrate it. Is it possible to use a Mac? I don't have a PC nearby and would rather not dismount the wheel from the rig.

Regarding the physical offset. Maybe it's my OCD but I'm really disturbed with the wheel not being centered. Is it only my wheel or do all RS50 look like this?
 
GT7 always sets whatever the in-game value is when it starts up, so you're better off just leaving the wheel strength (and TF Audio) at 8Nm/100 respectively and then the in-game values will be what you experience each and every time you start the game.

You can absolutely use a Mac, provided it's running OS 12 or later. The Mac version of G HUB is here. No need to be disturbed by it though - it's easy to calibrate.
 
LOGI_Rich
GT7 always sets whatever the in-game value is when it starts up, so you're better off just leaving the wheel strength (and TF Audio) at 8Nm/100 respectively and then the in-game values will be what you experience each and every time you start the game.

You can absolutely use a Mac, provided it's running OS 12 or later. The Mac version of G HUB is here. No need to be disturbed by it though - it's easy to calibrate.
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Thank you. I will try to hook it up to my Mac. That will be much easier for me.

Regarding the centring. The wheel actually seems to be calibrated but it's not possible to get it to rest dead center. I did a search and found another person having the same problem, while others don't.
 
You’ll be setting the new centre position where you think it should be. The process is basically: hold it in the position that you think is centre and then click a button in the G HUB UI to set the calibration. That’s it: job done.
 
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