Logitech RS50 | Settings and tips

  • Thread starter Thread starter tinker
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It definitely wasn't correct. Here was my comment on the reddit post:
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So was there any form of USB extension in use at all?
 
Sorry Rich I missed this on reddit. I do appreciate the reply so that was poor from me.

I don't have any other racing titles and everything I am using was the standard cables that came with the Wheel, so no extention or anything.
 
My wheel behaves very well, no issues like what you are showing. It does not move at all unless I am driving. When driving and depending on the track, car and speed, the wheel can wobble if I don't hold it but that seems normal to me, FFB is at play and affects the wheel relatively to what's happening on track. (And I am not even using the USB cable provided by Logitech)
 
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Lomic
My wheel behaves very well, no issues like what you are showing. It does not move at all unless I am driving. When driving and depending on the track, car and speed, the wheel can wobble if I don't hold it but that seems normal to me, FFB is at play and affects the wheel relatively to what's happening on track. (And I am not even using the USB cable provided by Logitech)
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Hey Lomic - when you say wobble do you mean just a little bit from side to side?

If I am not holding the wheel tightly then it was whizzing full lock to full lock super aggressively.

Just got the message the new one arrives in a few hours so fingers crossed no issues
 
Stringerbell
Hey Lomic - when you say wobble do you mean just a little bit from side to side?

If I am not holding the wheel tightly then it was whizzing full lock to full lock super aggressively.

Just got the message the new one arrives in a few hours so fingers crossed no issues
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yes it is very gentle
 
Stringerbell
ok great - fingers crossed!!! been telling myself it was the faulty wheel making me slow lol
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no idea about that but your wheel cleearly behaved wrong 😅 so it may well be an issue to be able to drive as well as possible
 
Hi @LOGI_Rich

I’ve just got the replacement and it’s not spinning on the load screens anymore.

But going down the straight if I let go then it goes side to side quite hard and on daily race C it feels like the wheel is always fighting against me if that makes sense. Now I don’t know if that’s force feedback or not but it’s meaning I have to hold the wheel tight and fight against it?

I’ve got

Strength 7
TF Audio 50
Dampener 20

GT7 Settings

Max Torque 8
Sensitivity 2

If I turn TF Audio down to zero and the max torque and strength to 6 then it makes it much better but it’s not supposed to need those settings is it?

I am 100% sure that either I am doing something wrong or I am not use to how a FF wheel is supposed to feel?

Like through this tunnel the wheel is pushing back as I’m turning like it’s trying to correct itself back to center. Is that normal?

This is my first ever wheel so forgive the basic questions please 😬

Sorry - also is that on properly as when it’s not on it sits more flush to ring

Oh and it kind of shudders when I go round corners? Is that normal?
 

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Stringerbell
But going down the straight if I let go then it goes side to side quite hard and on daily race C it feels like the wheel is always fighting against me if that makes sense. Now I don’t know if that’s force feedback or not but it’s meaning I have to hold the wheel tight and fight against it?
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I have not tried that combo but on some you need to have a firm grip on the wheel, cars sends you the info "I am a wild beast, you need to tame me if you want to be fast".

Other cars (or in combination with tracks) are much quieter on that regard.
 
@Stringerbell Yep, all normal. There's a reason that GT7 gives a safety warning when you increase the torque in-game :-)

It's really up to you whether you want to adapt and build up to that level of strength, but don't expect things to be like in a normal car with many games. There's often some oscillation around centre and the answer is to keep hold of the wheel, add some dampener in the wheel base's settings or decrease the overall torque output.

But the wheel absolutely should be "fighting you" - these are the sensations that give you the information you need to know to stay in control of the car.

The shudder you're getting around corners is tyre scrub and it's telling you that you're pushing hard (and that you're scrubbing your tyres). This is part of that info to help you better stay in tune with the car because you can dial things back (either through the steering or slowing down... or both) and feel that scrubbing sensation decrease, which tells you that you're getting back to the point of grip.
 
Thank you @LOGI_Rich really appreciate the detailed response.

So everything is fine and anything that feels off is user error 😂😂😂

That’s great to know and will help me when I feel less of it that I’m driving better.

If I drop the max torque to 4 does that affect the NM coming out of the wheel base? I read somewhere heat it will override it and only gives 4nm regardless of settings? Is that true or shall I go with 4 torque and 7nm?
 
Yes, the in-game torque will affect the output to the wheel. Don't worry about overheating - as you're in UAE, I assume you're driving in an air-conditioned room, so it's unlikely to ever be an issue for you.
 
LOGI_Rich
Yes, the in-game torque will affect the output to the wheel. Don't worry about overheating - as you're in UAE, I assume you're driving in an air-conditioned room, so it's unlikely to ever be an issue for you.
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No air-con, all money went into TV 🤣
 
LOGI_Rich
Yes, the in-game torque will affect the output to the wheel. Don't worry about overheating - as you're in UAE, I assume you're driving in an air-conditioned room, so it's unlikely to ever be an issue for you.
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Sorry that was a typo. It wasn’t meant to say heat. It was meant to say that it will override?

So if it’s at 4 max torque and 8nm am I only getting 4nm?
 
Whatever the in-game torque is set to becomes the cap/max that the game will output. The Strength on the wheel then acts as a gain adjustment within the level set by that in-game cap.

e.g.
Set in-game to 5 and Strength on base to 8Nm and you'll get around 4Nm output.
Set in-game to 5 and Strength on base to 4Nm and you'll get around 2Nm output.

Set in-game to 10 and Strength on base to 8Nm and you'll get 8Nm output.
Set in-game to 10 and Strength on base to 4Nm and you'll get around 4Nm output.
 
I saw your post on FB and only there noticed that you'd turned TF Audio off - you're missing out on a whole bunch of sensations that really help/immerse you in GT7, so turn that back up as it has zero effect on oscillations :-)
 

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