Looking at PS4 Wheels. Recommendations?

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AudiMan2011

AudiMan2011

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Hello everyone,

I've begun looking into sizing up a new wheel for PS4 racing games after using my Logitech G25 for the past 10 years. With the newest onslaught of games coming (pCARS 2, DiRT 4 etc), I feel it is now time to finally upgrade and I need you guys' help.

I'm looking into wheels that are around a similar mid-range level to my old G25 for around £200 to £300 ($250 to $400) and I'm torn between choices such as the G29 and T300RS, having been impressed by the latter after a quick demo at a car show last year. I've had the T150 touted but I feel it's almost like a downgrade from the G25 I've been used to.

I'm also looking preferably to wheels that come with 3 pedals as standard, which the G29 and T300RS GT Edition both offer.

Reliability is also a sticking point for me particularly in regards to the T300RS and I'm not sure if I've heard much grumblings about the G29.

My current potential candidates:

Logitech G29: Possible progressive upgrade from my G25, standard inclusion of 3 pedals despite separate shifter (can be had in a bundle at Currys/PC World): £180

Thrustamaster T300RS / GT Edition: Gave one a quick go last year and was quite impressed. The GT Edition coming with 3 pedals would only need the TH8A shifter separate to complete the set as the ecosystem on the standard 2-pedal T300 concerns me a bit: £300 for wheel, 3 pedal bundle, £350 for wheel set and shifter, £430 for standard T300 [£250 on wheel, 2 pedal setup alone] + T3PA pedals + TH8A shifter.

What would you guys recommend?

Regards,

AudiMan2011
 
You can buy standard T300 and if your G25 pedals are still strong you can use them with this adapter.
If I were you I would wait till September to see what new wheels will come this year.
 
Same Idea as super_gt stated. You can get the T150 (which is actually an upgrade from the G25 in terms of FFB) and use your G25 pedals with the adapter. This would be the low budget way to upgrade to a modern supported wheel.

Edit 1 - As far as the T300s.. I love mine. My first one did have an issue and Thrustmaster replaced it without a problem and the replacement one has been working great for about 2 years now. The T3PA pedals are nice with the included conical brake mod, and the TH8a shifter is a sweet add on. I really enjoy my setup and highly recommend them. Just be sure to buy from a legit retailer and do not void your warranty.

Edit 2 - Forgot.. also look into the T150 pro version. If you can find it, they come with the T3PA pedals for $250. It is a good bundle that would only need the TH8A later to be a complete set.
 
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I would just get an adapter for your current setup IF you will getting a xbox scorpio or next gen playstation upon release. Its alot of money to spend if you will upgrade your console as they probably wont work.If you are not bothered, the T300rs is now made and shipped with a different fan, which was the common problem for most T300rs owners. Now i have the new fan in mine, iam not getting any ffb fading.
 
shoemaker
I would just get an adapter for your current setup IF you will getting a xbox scorpio or next gen playstation upon release. Its alot of money to spend if you will upgrade your console as they probably wont work.If you are not bothered, the T300rs is now made and shipped with a different fan, which was the common problem for most T300rs owners. Now i have the new fan in mine, iam not getting any ffb fading.
Click to expand...

That is cool I did not know they upgraded the fan, when did that start? Mine is past warranty and I have been meaning to open it up and put a nicer fan in there. It was a technician reworked replacement for original which was RMA'd for a clunking issue back in mid 2015. Curious if it has a better fan, as it sounded different than my first one.
 
I'd say the answer to this question is:

Do you want to have almost identical FFB experience to the G25 (only a bit better because 10 years of wear do show even on a G25), or do you want a major upgrade with no more rattle, more power, more smoothness?

I went from the G25 to T300 on my PC rig, and it was so much better that when my launch (mid 2014) T300 needed to be replaced for the clunk issue and I was without it for a month, I tried the G25 again briefly, then boxed it up again and put it in the attic, and just paused simracing. I couldn't bring myself to downgrade...
 
This clunk issue, this where you could be slightly holding turning left or right gradually then it feels like a boat unhooking from the dock with a big wobble? Happens once in a blue moon...


quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by Sasquatch
As of tonight, my T300RS developed this center "clunk" sound, as in the best way I can describe it... is at center there's a single clunk rotating left and right. I've read people saying this is a easy repair as it's the screws to the servo motor in the base? I have no idea to take this thing apart, and i'm pretty sure i'm beyond warranty and may give Thrustmaster a call to see what they say? Does anyone know if there's a tutorial video or an exact pinpoint to the issue?

It doesn't destroy my gameplay, the wheel plays just fine. It's just weird hearing it now.

I appreciate any help, and thank you.
Yeah I had that issue but mine was still under warranty replacement is much nicer. How long have you had it? Warranty is 1 year in the USA and 2 years in most other countries.

If you are inside that time frame collect the following info to send to Thrustmaster then either email them or call them.
#1 Video of your wheel clunking (easy way is to stop the car in project cars with slow speed center spring up above 75% and turn back and forth)
#2 picture of the serial number sticker on the bottom of the wheel base.
#3 receipt or invoice of purchase

Otherwise you can check out how to open up the wheel using info from people who replaced the fan (opening up the t300 and tx is basically the same)
http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/13...n-replacement/

Then I found this info about which ones to tighten down on some thread .. not sure which one and there is no guarantee this info is correct I never attempted.
"JimBowL_ said
That clunking noise is the shaft pins holding the belt itself, its an very VERY easy fix.

If or when you open the wheel just squeeze the belt with your pinching fingers, at the same time rotating slowly to find the loose bolt.. easy fix buddy buddy.

The bolts they use from thrustmaster are very.. ehh cheap. My nephews toys has better screws and brackets than the wheel.. kind of &%#*&!%#&@!^#$&#$%&!^#^ well.. you get the point HA!"
Click to expand...
 
Orayani
This clunk issue, this where you could be slightly holding turning left or right gradually then it feels like a boat unhooking from the dock with a big wobble? Happens once in a blue moon...
Click to expand...
My clunk issue was part of a launch batch which were all bad. Basically every time you turned the wheel back towards center you'd get this nasty clunk noise plus feel something shifting in the wheel shaft at about 30 degrees from center. It was constantly present and made the wheel unusable.

Mine was replaced for this immediately, but unfortunately at launch stocks were sold out so it took a while for the replacement to get to me. The replacement was obviously clunk-free and has been running nicely for over 2 years now.


The other kind of lesser clunk could be two main things:
1. The belts are loose and you're jumping a tooth occasionally (or something like that).
2. The bolts holding the quick release block onto the wheel shaft are loose causing the block and therefore the wheel rim to wobble at certain points.


You can get at the wheel shaft bolts just by removing the rim from the quick release, so check those immediately.

There are procedures on various sites (which I linked earlier in this thread, I believe) which show how to take the T300 apart to get at the screws which control the belt tension. The T300 basically mounts the motor on a metal block which can move up and down held in place by 3 screws, so you can slide it up a bit if the belt is not tensioned enough. It's actually not a difficult job (unlike the T500 which is a lot more difficult to take apart) to open up the lid of the T300 wheelbase* and check those tensioner screws.

* Obviously this could impact your warranty. Realistically taking off the plastic cover of the wheelbase can be done without any impact to the wheel (no stickers to break). So you can get at the tensioner screws without doing anything which could damage the functioning of your wheel as long as you are careful, but do so at your own risk.
 
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Ah, mine must be a missed tooth. As it doesn't happen often but it feels like I ran over a huge piece of rubber on the track from something jumping and letting go creating that wobble.
 
I've never had that loud crack.

Skazz, where is the english version of this fix as mine definitely is jumping a tooth from time to time.


Oh...

novadave
The belt does not have enough tension. loosen the four Phillips Head screws at the motor front plate and raise the motor a bit at a time and tighten the screws and retest. If this does not solve the problem then the motor drive gear does not have the proper tooth pitch to match the drive belt cogs. In this case the drive gear would need to be replaced.
Click to expand...


When my cog turns manually you can see a slight wobble in the cog. The white plastic cog from the motor isn't spinning perfectly circular.


[EDIT] Think I've sorted it. Had to loosen it then straighten it up. Its nearly spinning perfectly. A little hairline of a difference when spinning it fast.

Anyway to stop the wheel slamming left and right as it reaches 1080 when calibrating? Shame they couldn't program it to go slow when calibrating. I hate that slamming as it spins left and right.
 
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There was something interesting when I took the small circular cover off. Don't know if anyone else has it... two cables connectors wrapped up and hinged on one of the pegs with an elastic band.

I was wondering what these disconnected cables were for?
 
It was such a stupid thing from the get go but I suppose its all to do with having the wheels fail at some point so you buy new ones? After all companies don't want your stuff lasting forever.
 
Its a real shame they stuck that red stringy rubber layer over the screws for the fan. :/

Wish I could have replaced it for a better fan. Quieter and blowing more cfm.
 

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