LSD Drift setup: wheels only (G27)

  • Thread starter Tvensky
  • 44 comments
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I found very good info about LSD explaining how it works just about perfect! It might help a lot for those who still don't understand how it really works!





I can say, I learned to Drift with a wheel a lot better now. And for sure Drifting with DS3 SixAxis LSD setup is pointless. I could drift with any setup since you can adjust steering in less than a second (so I didn't even care what LSD setup I had, I just set some random numbers and it changed almost nothing). Drifting with wheel requires not just steering with wheel but also with pedals. LSD tuning with G27 made enormous difference in drifts! So you guys helped me a lot to understand how to tune LSD in GT5!

Many Thanks! 👍

PS. I didnt want to hurt any DS3 drifter. I myself drifted more than a year with DS3 and that was lot of fun and great drifts!
 
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GTP_Kazama
Welded diff = 5/60/60, Open diff = 5/5/5. As explained earlier the initial torque setting(the first setting) is used to determine how much throttle is needed to lock the differential. Example of this is: if i was to put the initial at 5, the side gears(ones delivering the power) will be locked to spin together 100% of the time. If I used an Initial Torque setting of 60, the diff will do what is called 'Free-wheeling' where one driven wheel will spin at a totally different speed to the other, this usually being the outside wheel spinning more thus creating more oversteer or what is known as tracking to be easier.(being smooth and without traction issues.

This is not what you want, a drifter knows that his driven wheels should spin at very similar if not identical speeds(locked differential) for smoother, easier initiation and also transition. On the other hand, having a fully locked differential is great for the basics of drifting which is why plenty of budget drifters opt to weld, creating the 5/60/60 feeling. Though this is widely used by 'budget drifters' and is highly recommended if you cannot afford a proper setup, It will only last as long as the welds can hold, which isn't very long usually. Most professional drifters will use a 2-way setup which is more like the setup I try to use which is more like 10/60/60. Unfortunately the settings in GT5 go from 5 to 60 which makes judging the percentage of lock much more difficult but most real drifters prefer some play before diff-lock even if it is only slight. This creates pretty much a locked differential but once mastered makes for more corner entry speeds, and more adjustments when you can perfect the throttle control.

As I mentioned above though, the 5-60 adjustment makes percentages a bit different and as such 10/60/60 may be too much for some, not enough for others. So I tend to play around between 5-15max initial torque.

That being said, no-one can tell you how you will like it, as shown by many other peoples' settings, the variation is big, but using low accel and decel(anything under 45ish accel and 30 decel) will lead you to free-wheel more which may feel easier to drift and seem better but if you go and watch your replay, you'll notice pretty quickly, the infamous one wheel tyre fryer mark left usually by your outer driven wheel because it is trying to spin faster to correct the drift you've put the car into. Not a pretty sight to a true drifter.

When I was learning on my G27 I started with 5/60/60 just to get the feeling of what the car should feel like mid-drift and before the big physics patch I experimented with lower decel (from 45 to 60) to get more lift-off oversteer which is: when you back off the throttle the differential will open somewhat to allow more turn in with out stopping your drift. But since the patch I find that with most of the notorious GT-snap gone, a more aggresively locked differential can be used with less effort required to control entry and exiting of corners.
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No, you're wrong on that. Initial torque isn't how much torque it takes to lock up the diff, it's the pre-load that is already on the diff. Therefore 5/60/60 would be a 2-way differential.
 
On all of my personal setups I use 5-60-60, this setup seem to feel the best for me 👍
 
I agree that 5/60/60 feels like a 2 way diff, and 60/60/60 feels like a solid (welded) diff. I've seen others say that 5/60/30 is close to a 1.5 way diff.

If you take a car to a big flat surface (TGTT), and make nice medium radius turns at slow speed with different diff settings, you can see the difference.

5/60/60 acts as a 2 way diff would. When the rear tires have full traction, it acts like an open diff. However, mid drift, when the rear has broken traction, the diff is locked.

60/60/60 is like a solid rear end. There is understeer while turnig at slow speeds, as the rear is locked. Of course, it is locked during a drift.
 
I found that, cars with less power I prefer 60/60/60.

and with more powerful cars 5/60/45-60

but isn't 5/60/60 some kind of a little cheating..? I still dont know what diff settings would use real world drifters, instead of GT5 players.. :dunce:💡
 
Tvensky
I found that, cars with less power I prefer 60/60/60.

and with more powerful cars 5/60/45-60

but isn't 5/60/60 some kind of a little cheating..? I still dont know what diff settings would use real world drifters, instead of GT5 players.. :dunce:💡
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5/60/60 replicates a welded dif, which is most drifters use in real life. a boatload of torque to get the wheels spinning and a lot of acceleration to keep them spinning on your exit. I love have my deceleration high for reverse entries because you come flying in and it's nice to know you'll be able to slow down with plenty of time to keep the car stable.
 
squirlybmx
5/60/60 replicates a welded dif, which is most drifters use in real life. a boatload of torque to get the wheels spinning and a lot of acceleration to keep them spinning on your exit. I love have my deceleration high for reverse entries because you come flying in and it's nice to know you'll be able to slow down with plenty of time to keep the car stable.
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No your wrong. The initial torque means how hard it is to lock, 60 being the easiest, 5 being the hardest.
 
squirlybmx
5/60/60 replicates a welded dif, which is most drifters use in real life. a boatload of torque to get the wheels spinning and a lot of acceleration to keep them spinning on your exit. I love have my deceleration high for reverse entries because you come flying in and it's nice to know you'll be able to slow down with plenty of time to keep the car stable.
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Welded diffs are super super easy to break loose... That's why drifters weld their diffs. They're the most stable too once sideways. With a reasonable amount of power (250+whp maybe) it is fairly easy to initiate by shifting weight and giving throttle, while doing the same without a weld would basically spin the inside tire while making you look really dumb, drawing laughter and insults from other drifters who are in the know.
 
In real life I drift a 240sx sr20det with a welded diff and I definitely agree that 60/60/60 resembles a welded diff best.
I get my fix at home with a G27 wheel, racing seat, and custom Ebrake mod(chilicoke)
I've got a youtube vid of it. Search: patrick salazar gt5 hand brake mod
 
artica
In real life I drift a 240sx sr20det with a welded diff and I definitely agree that 60/60/60 resembles a welded diff best.
I get my fix at home with a G27 wheel, racing seat, and custom Ebrake mod(chilicoke)
I've got a youtube vid of it. Search: patrick salazar gt5 hand brake mod
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But I thought that 60 all round for the differential settings resembled a locked diff. If 60/60/60 resembles a welded diff, then what would resemble a locked diff?
 
Tvensky
Thanks alot for the quick answer mate! 👍 I will try out your setup now 👍, but I would love to know more about LSD. any Help much appreciated!

Questions:
I want to understand what is the difference for each selection!?
what does it do?
How it helps me to drift?
How do I tune it?
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Watch this it's excellent in the LSD and suspension explanation for drifting.
 

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