LSD Settings: How they really work in GT5?

If the tires don't break loose, you shouldn't feel any difference between open diff and locked diff, in a straight line. If you spin the wheels launching from the line, does one wheel spin? If so, lock-er up.

Well, in my case both wheels spin equally. The question here is really, how to achieve maximun sensitivity? Well, i was told to put i like 60/60/60, but then again, do you want maximum sensitivity in drag racing? Maybe my questions can be answered here, but i was hoping to get some kind of calculations.

Anyways, found some stuff:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/chassis/chassis_tuning_tire_traction/index.html
 
Well, in my case both wheels spin equally. The question here is really, how to achieve maximun sensitivity? Well, i was told to put i like 60/60/60, but then again, do you want maximum sensitivity in drag racing? Maybe my questions can be answered here, but i was hoping to get some kind of calculations.

Anyways, found some stuff:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/chassis/chassis_tuning_tire_traction/index.html

I think you are asking too much from GT5. It was not designed as a drag racing game. Most real world drag chassis tunes are trying to shift weight to the rear and offset the affect of engine torque steer. In even the most HP cars in GT5, I don't see the hood twist as you put the power down. I just don't think it is modeled. Locked or unlocked, if you don't spin one tire launching from the line, then the LSD is irrelevant in GT5. Look elsewhere for drag racing speed.
 
I think you are asking too much from GT5. It was not designed as a drag racing game. Most real world drag chassis tunes are trying to shift weight to the rear and offset the affect of engine torque steer. In even the most HP cars in GT5, I don't see the hood twist as you put the power down. I just don't think it is modeled. Locked or unlocked, if you don't spin one tire launching from the line, then the LSD is irrelevant in GT5. Look elsewhere for drag racing speed.
Yes i know it isnt a drag racing game, but the settings can be set to achieve maximum traction and weight transfer.

Thanks for your time, about the LDS for drag racing, i keep thet question open.
 
as a drag racer i can say that in gt5 the setting can not be set to get maximum weight transfer during a standing start. the spring rates are far to stiff, and the damping rates are also far to stiff. Maximum given the limits of this games phyisics, yeah sure.
 
as a drag racer i can say that in gt5 the setting can not be set to get maximum weight transfer during a standing start. the spring rates are far to stiff, and the damping rates are also far to stiff. Maximum given the limits of this games phyisics, yeah sure.

It's hard enough to make a program that does exactly what is asked from it. It's a programmer's common sense that if you do a program that does more then that, you're wasting time. Gran Turismo so far was never about straight drag racing. if you wanna know what Gran Turismo is really about watch some FIA GT and Rally races, it wasn't till GT5 that NASCAR was included. Maybe on GT6 you'll have some drag racing and if that happens there will be enough settings to reach results.
Dragging in GT5 is like asking Alonso and Vettel to drag race with their F1 cars... makes no sense that's why you can't reach the desired settings.
it's like Drifting in GT3, you barely reached good drifting settings mostly you had to compensate with ability... now you have drifting competition and you get to make nice drifting settings.
 
It's hard enough to make a program that does exactly what is asked from it. It's a programmer's common sense that if you do a program that does more then that, you're wasting time. Gran Turismo so far was never about straight drag racing. if you wanna know what Gran Turismo is really about watch some FIA GT and Rally races, it wasn't till GT5 that NASCAR was included. Maybe on GT6 you'll have some drag racing and if that happens there will be enough settings to reach results.
Dragging in GT5 is like asking Alonso and Vettel to drag race with their F1 cars... makes no sense that's why you can't reach the desired settings.
it's like Drifting in GT3, you barely reached good drifting settings mostly you had to compensate with ability... now you have drifting competition and you get to make nice drifting settings.
Well, "intended" i think you can race as you want to in gt5, and some cars can be tuned good for drag racing. At least "streetdrag" is working well, and that is what everybody is doing, since we dont have proper drag strip or drag tyres, or "tree". We invent our own things that is similar to street.....

So yes, discussing drag racing tuning in gt5 isnt something wierd. To bad they dont have drag strip or 0-400 meter test like in gt4 and previous games.
 
I'm sick of people telling others what they can or can't do in the game.
This isn't a 'racing game' it's a 'car enthusiast' game.
That means anything you can do in a car, you should be able to do in GT5 without babies crying about what they think the game was designed for.
Drag, Drift, Race, Wheelies... guess what, I play tag and cat and mouse too.
Gymkhana, hell I've even seen people line 10 cars up at one end of the track, and play bowling in an online lounge.

Get over it people, GT5 is whatever you make it.
 
A good idea since there is a bunch of drag tuning, is request a drag tuning sub forum. Just an idea.

That would just consist of a bunch newbies asking for tunes and the pro's saying do the trail and error. I worked to hard to develop my tunes. Drag racing itself is a no skill sport. So why hand out the only thing that makes me fast.
 
Something that makes LSD tuning it "easy" are the tyres, if I go with Race Softs it looks like I can set the LSD to something like 5/10/5 on every car... even the change from comfort soft to sport soft makes the LSD almost needless. Or am I missing something? Can someone tell me a car that needs high decel values?
 
Something that makes LSD tuning it "easy" are the tyres, if I go with Race Softs it looks like I can set the LSD to something like 5/10/5 on every car... even the change from comfort soft to sport soft makes the LSD almost needless. Or am I missing something? Can someone tell me a car that needs high decel values?

Happy to see that someone got this thread back on topic. I'm not sure how this turned into the "arguing about drag racing thread." The LSD will not help solve any tuning problems for a car that is intended to go in a straight line. End of drag racing discussion.

As for cars needing higher values, the FGT is one that I think needs higher (20+ decel values).
 
Any information you provide after that statement is easily dismissable. You must have little knowledge of the automotive world.

What are you talking about? Have you read anything in this thread? I road race and have worked on race cars for years. You challenge my real world experience because of a comment I make about drag race tuning in GT5? You're an idiot!
 
What are you talking about? Have you read anything in this thread? I road race and have worked on race cars for years. You challenge my real world experience because of a comment I make about drag race tuning in GT5? You're an idiot!

I've done enough testing in this game to prove that the LSD does in fact make a difference in straight line acceleration.
 
I've done enough testing in this game to prove that the LSD does in fact make a difference in straight line acceleration.

Good for you. Now go drag race somewhere. I am more interested in how the LSD gets you through corner entry, apex and exit. Still not sure how this thread turned into the drag racing forum.
 
Good for you. Now go drag race somewhere. I am more interested in how the LSD gets you through corner entry, apex and exit. Still not sure how this thread turned into the drag racing forum.

Well next time don't state facts that aren't true and I wouldn't have brought up a thing.
 
Yes, I started a whole new thread about LSDs, even though there are already a number on the subject. I didn’t want this to get buried in page 17 of a long thread that hasn’t proven definitive. For example, the Initial Torque thread hasn’t really provided anything conclusive in my opinion. Maybe this thread won’t either, but I would hope we can post more of “what does the LSD do in this game” rather than a bunch more formulas, theories, tested it on one car and of course the handful of know-it-alls who have it figured out, yet just can seem to provide a simple explanation. What does the diff do in this game, from a programmer point of view? Move a setting up or down, does the car turn better or understeer (not, it locks to 95% rather than 90%). I don’t know if this community can do that, but let’s give it a shot.

This is what I have found the diff to do in GT5.

Initial Torque:
Lower number, a more open diff = better turning /more oversteer
Higher number, a diff closer to lock = more planted/more understeer

Decel/Accel:
These need to be tuned together. This is how you balance the attitude of the car. Decel affects braking through apex or just before throttle application. Accel affects from apex or throttle application through corner exit. You should use Accel/Decel to balance a car all the way through the corner – it should be smooth, not push in, understeer out or the opposite.

Decel:
Lower number, a more open diff when off throttle = better turning /more oversteer when off throttle
Higher number, a diff closer to lock when off throttle = more control /more understeer when off throttle

Accel:
Lower number, a more open diff when on throttle = better turning / more oversteer, and more possibility for inside wheel spin when on throttle
Higher number, a diff closer to lock when on throttle = more planted / more understeer and less possibility for inside wheel spin when on throttle

So how do you choose the settings? It all depends upon the power of the car and your driving style. The goal for tuning the LSD is to find a balance of understeer/oversteer and to reduce inside wheel spin. It doesn’t need to be any more complicated than that. So where should you start? There are many ways to go at this, so I will just describe how I approach it. Others will have methods to achieve the same goal – a faster, better driving tuned diff. I start with Initial at the default of 10. I truly believe that you have to balance the car first with Decel and Accel, then return to Initial.

My steps:
1.) Initial at 10

2.) Tune the balance with Decel/Accel. I just recently found a track to tune on that really exposes the weaknesses of an LSD tune – Grand Valley East, reverse. The first two turns at the end of the long straight really test the Decel settings of the diff. The first corner is a mid-level left hander, followed immediately by a sort of tight left hander. You can carry some speed through the first corner, but will need to brake a bit for the second – all while the car is off balance, mid corner. If your car has understeer through this section, lower the Decel. If it has oversteer and tries to spin out trying to enter the second corner, raise the Decel.

The other section of Grand Valley East, reverse that exposes a weak LSD tune is the 180 hairpin just before the long straight. Decel can be tuned here too, but the settings that work on the other end of the track will also be strong here. Focus on Accel from power on through exit. If the inside wheel spins or the car has oversteer, raise the Accel. If the car has understeer, lower the Accel.

3.) Now tune the Initial Torque. This is simply an oversteer/understeer proposition times power. For lower powered cars, you can run very low numbers (between 5 and 12). For mid-powered cars I tend to use ranges from 8 to 15. I haven’t found any gains for low to mid power cars to run super high initial torque numbers. These cars just don’t put out enough power to take advantage of a “stronger” diff. For high powered cars, the game changes, depending upon the car. I have used numbers between 10 and 40. It truly depends upon the attitude of the car and how much power and downforce it has. High powered cars also need more throttle control – not just slamming back to full throttle at the apex. More on this below.

4.) Return to Decel/Accel and fine tune, if needed. Once the Initial is set closer to the liking of the car and your driving style, go back to paying attention to the Decel/Accel settings. You may find that corner entry could be a little bit better – raise or lower Decel one or two numbers. Or that corner exit could be a little better – raise or lower the Accel one or two numbers. Finally take one last look at Initial and begin to adjust up and down a number or two, looking to confirm that your LSD is optimized.

One last item to be addressed is outside wheel spin. I will admit that this is the one thing that I have not been able to tune out with the LSD. It challenges logic to how any LSD should work (more locked, less inside wheel spin – less locked, more chance of inside wheel spin). In GT5, I find that when you can move a setting from minimum to maximum and see little difference in affect and/or lap times, the adjustment you are trying to make is not the adjustment needed to solve the problem. You are asking it to solve something that it cannot. My hypothesis (this is the only place in my LSD tuning that is a theory) is that outside wheel spin is more affected by downforce, suspension settings and driver inputs. The outside wheel is being pushed beyond its available grip. Either slow down a little more or apply gentler throttle inputs or change your suspension settings to give more grip on that end of the car. Take the Yellow Bird or the Viper ACR to Grand Valley East, reverse and turn the Initial and Accel all the way up. How can these cars still spin only the outside wheels with an almost locked diff? Both should spin in that situation. Therefore, I believe that getting rid of outside wheel spin is not the job of the LSD.

Your thoughts? I ask again, what does the diff really do in this game?

Cheers! 👍 I will give this a go and see if it works. To me the LSD settings in this game are unpredictable at best so I will try your method. :) Never before have I have so much trouble tuning anything but LSDs in GT5 have me stumped! :ouch:
 
I have been re-reading my favorite car handling book, "Tune to Win" by Carrol Smith. Carrol was the god of road race tuning and was involved with Formula One through the late 1990's (the non-driver assist era). There is a good section on LSD tuning. I thought I would summarize some of his key points and share with the GT Planet community. Below are the things that I found interesting and might be applicable to GT5? You'd have to believe that with Kaz being a road racer, he would have followed similar theories when programming the game.

From "Tune to Win" Open Differentials:
"Street cars typically operate at low force levels, so the open differential does not normally present a problem. With the open diff, the torque from the engine takes the easy way out and if, for whatever reason, one of the driving tires has exceeded its thrust capacity, all of the torque will be delivered to that wheel and it will spin – while the other tire does nothing and the vehicle goes nowhere. Lateral load transfer will unload the inside tire. The problem becomes more acute as the power to weight ratio raises, even a Formula car can get inside wheel spin out of slow corners."

What this says to me for GT5:
Low horsepower cars (say 250 hp and below) can be run with the stock LSD or the adjustable LSD with really low (open) settings.

From "Tune to Win" Locked differentials:
“Locked differentials and spools work well in NASCAR, Indy cars and dirt cars with tire stagger, but not road race cars. The problem with road racing has to do with corner radii, weight distribution and how much you are willing to sacrifice.
Locked differentials create understeer. “

What this says to me for GT5:
I am going to try a more locked diff on my NASCAR for racing the Daytona oval. Large corner radius so other parts of the tune should be able to make up for understeer. My only concern is that we do not have the ability to add stagger to the rear tires. I crewed for a few years on an asphalt sprint car team. We spent most of our time at the tire trailer measuring every tire in the truck, looking to optimize stagger. Take a paper cup that has one end bigger than the other and roll it on the ground and you’ll see why a locked or welded diff would work well on ovals.

From "Tune to Win" Road Racing Differentials:
“What is needed for racing is a differential that will be open – or will differentiate – on a trailing throttle, so that the rear wheels can rotate at the required radius speed during corner entry, but will start to lock as the driver comes back on power to stabilize the car, thus providing a degree of built-in understeer by driving the inside rear wheel, and which will gradually lock all of the way as the power is increased so that there will be no inside wheel spin. The most popular differentials in road racing can accomplish differing performance on corner entry, corner exit and different levels of locking under power. These differentials are good, but can never be fully open or fully locked, and still accomplish their other cornering tasks. “

What this says to me for GT5:
I believe that these principals were used by PD as their guide to develop the diff within GT5. Thinking about the diff in the above mentioned way, the in-game description of Initial Torque makes sense. I tune with the belief that a low initial torque will allow the diff to “take full effect” earlier in throttle application and that a higher initial torque will delay the “full effect” of the diff until deeper on throttle. By “full effect” I mean that whatever your Accel setting is, it will gradually increase up to the level of Accel locking that you have set, as you apply throttle. The more throttle applied, the more torque is present and the closer the diff gets to your Accel locking number setting. I usually avoid theories and I’m not saying I’m right on Initial Torque, but I think this is what I’m feeling in the game? If you are a mash the gas type of racer, lower Initials might work better for you. If you are Mr. easy on the throttle, higher Initial will allow the diff to gradually lock as you apply more power.

Your thoughts?
 
I'd almost say you may be right there but have it backwards...

I've found higher IT to make the car "push" with less throttle than a lower IT in a fair few cases (tuning my Camaro to beat Paulie's comes to mind most clearly)... So I'd actually say it may be the other way around. Those who do a lot of throttle play will benefit more from it taking less input to lock the diff than those who use the throttle as more of an on/off switch. Reason being that those adept at throttle control can use a wider range of diff response more effectively to control how the car is acting while those who are "mashers" so to speak will need/want the diff to go to the predetermined lock % as quickly as possible to prevent wheelspin.
 
as someone whos predominantly raced nascar since the game came out ,i can only write a view on what ive found out about the NASCAR

the way it affects the NASCAR is power to the wheels control Inital Torque is used for low RPM,the higher the initial torque the more power are sent to the wheels at button/accelerator press from starts or breaking ,good for speedways ,however in road coarses ,the lower the number the less wheel spin you get ,(also this differs again once traction control and Skid managment is enabled) higher traction control ,higher you can set initial torque with same results

acceleration this in a nascar ,once again seems to be the power sent to the wheels during a high RPM ,ive noticed when tuning my NASCAR the higher this is set the more quickly the car will accelerate whilst in draft ,but because it also retains speed will drift the car towards the outside creating what appears to be understeer (the same also applies when used with Traction control)

Breaking sensitivity my own theory is higher this is set ,the more stable the car will be in a straight line ,good for high powered cars and tracks with long straights (but causes understeer),the lower this is set the more flexible the car is for late cornering as this allows the front wheels to turn without locking and seems to be ideal for rallying (this can also be adjusted with ABS)

initial torque low ,lower acceleration less wheelspin better tyre wear (oversteer)
initial torque High ,fast acceleration ,more wheelspin rapid trye wear (understeer)

accel sensetivity Low ,slower delivery of power ,better control in turns (oversteer)
accel sensetivity High ,greater delivery of power ,causes erratic handling(understeer)

breaking sensetivity Low ,less stability ,ability to turn when breaking(oversteer)
breaking sensetivity High,more stable ,no ability to turn when breaking(understeer)

finding the balance is easy in nascar because of the ease of tracks ,but i hope this helps explain it
 
Noone really answered my question about the tyres... it seems that with racing tyres (mostly softs) I can set the LSD almost to 5/5/5?
Would you recommend tuning the LSD with "bad" tyres (conforts) and transfer the results to the racing tyres or just go with that low settings?
I still haven't found a good track to set the LSD... is Fuji any good?
 
Noone really answered my question about the tyres... it seems that with racing tyres (mostly softs) I can set the LSD almost to 5/5/5?
Would you recommend tuning the LSD with "bad" tyres (conforts) and transfer the results to the racing tyres or just go with that low settings?
I still haven't found a good track to set the LSD... is Fuji any good?

LSD 5/5/5? Are you kidding? Try it on different cars and you'll see....or check out some RS tunes.

I would recommend to tune the LSD with the tires you'll use.

I don't know how good Fuji is (don't like it). I prefer Grand Valley Speedway (or the shorter east track), but some tuners drive on other tracks like Trial Mountain and Deep Forest. Use whatever you like, but you should definitely test your tune on different tracks.
 
Well, I'm trying to set up my tuning garage and want 3 cars to start with... I decided to use Fuji for all car because it has an exceptional long straight (in my opinion the longest straight that makes sense for tuning the top speed) and all sorts of different turns. And I test all cars on 1-2 individual tracks (one bumpy like Trail Mountain, Deep Forest, Grand Valley or Autumn Ring and one that more track that I am in the mood for)...

Right now I'm working on the GTR SpecV (yeah I know... but I just love that car and I want a tune that suits me well, because all I found are very different form each other and I want to find out what I come up with)... and here I set the front LSD on 5/5/5 (for better turning and 4WD normally have a 1 way diff in the front, at least the GT5 Apex booklet says so, and the rear something like 10/15/5 on sport hard (stock tyres). I just tested this on Grand Valley East and I don't set any inside wheelspin, am I doing something wrong??? For the front I'm not sure whether to set initial to 6 for the LSD to even kick in? I only use ABS 1, driving line on and all other driving aids off. I'm shifting manual and using a DFGT.

Something a bit off topic, I'm not sure about is the Torque Distributing Centre Differential and how it affects the LSD... does the stock part that is set to 30/70 handle the same as the one you can buy which is set to 30/70 as default too? I read through the Hks ct230r thread and don't know whether I should go rather with a 50/50 or more a 10/90 torque split? I more and more confused...
 
Right now I'm working on the GTR SpecV...
...and here I set the front LSD on 5/5/5 (for better turning and 4WD normally have a 1 way diff in the front, I just tested this on Grand Valley East and I don't set any inside wheelspin, am I doing something wrong??? For the front I'm not sure whether to set initial to 6 for the LSD to even kick in?
Oh GTR, you hate it or love it.
Ok, AWD is an exception. Sometimes it's really needed to set a very low Front LSD.
Do you know what a 1 way diff is? It only affects the accel lock. During deccel, it works like a complete open diff. You see, accel could be higher than 5. Initial higher? I think front init 5 is the best.
No inside wheelspin? The GTR is a computer on 4 wheels! Anyway, inside spin is very rare on AWDs.
does the stock part that is set to 30/70 handle the same as the one you can buy which is set to 30/70 as default too? ...don't know whether I should go rather with a 50/50 or more a 10/90 torque split?
Yes, it handles identical. Try a little bit more front based distribution.
 
I think the reason you are having good results with low settings is because you are picking a 4wd car with moderate horsepower. The changes won't be as noticible on a car like the GTR that has plenty of grip to start and you're giving it even more grip with racing tires. Take the Toyota7 for a few laps with traction control off. Then you'll begin to understand the necessity of the LSD.

So i'm coming back to this thread because I found a new challenge. Rally racing. Most rally cars in the game have LSDs and they are always set to 10/40/20. I am trying to get a muscle car around the Toscana dirt track (see my Dukes of Hazzard Challenge thread). The problem I have is massive oversteer exiting turns. When I have the car pointed in the right direction, applying the throttle causes the car to snap oversteer. I also get oversteer on straight sections of the track which really doesn't make sense to me.

I have had the most success with 60/60/5 which in theory should be locking the diff and preventing oversteer. But it doesn't seem to work completely. I'm wondering if anyone else has some secret rally LSD settings that would work better.

The biggest issue with rally is that you can't really tell what tire is breaking loose. I could also be asking too much of the car. When I am drifting sideways and I can see a straight line exit to a turn, I start applying throttle. Instead of giving me forward momentum, I loose grip in the rear completely and the car spins around as if my front tires were completely locked up. In an AWD car, I suspect all 4 wheels drift so the loss of lateral traction is more uniform.
 
Start at 30/70 and test both ways, it's really going to be up to you.

What I've did was start at 10/90 then kept raising the front percent until I got the right feel. At 10/90 I was getting too much power in the rear for the low speed corners at Tsukuba, so I kept raising it until the rear wasn't overpowered and ripping apart when I throttled hard on exit.

On SS tires the rear rip apart a lot easier then on RS tires so I had to raise the front % to 32/68 to deal with it while on RS tires 10/90 was fast, and 18/82 was my sweet spot (at the time) so it depends first if your going for an S or R tire set up.

Then it will depend on if you want to use real world techniques, or use game exploits. Exploits have generally proven to be faster.
 
Basilea, 5/5/5 works well, because it's the weakest settings you can apply.
So, this should create the easiest car to drive, but it won't provide the quickest.
In my personal experience, the more aggressive you can go with LSD, the faster the car will be, but the harder it will become to drive. Keep in mind, this is relative to overall grip as well as Horsepower.

As for torque split... I try to use 50/50, because that's the benefit of AWD. Using 10/90 is trying to make the car something it's not. If you want a RWD car, then buy one, don't force an AWD to be a RWD. The only time I've had to start transferring power to the rear, is when the front tires are taking too much punishment, or the car is experiencing horrible understeer. This is usually more common with lower grade tires, when less grip is available.
Perfect example is the HKS we played with last night. With Race Softs, 50/50 was much faster for me, as it had enough grip to utilize all 4 corners. But with Sport Softs, the fronts were forced to do too much of the work and turning ability was sacrificed. In that scenario, I slowly start moving power to the rear, until you get an even amount of grip on all 4 corners, or as close as you can get, within your comfort level of overall balance.
 
Adrenaline
Basilea, 5/5/5 works well, because it's the weakest settings you can apply.
So, this should create the easiest car to drive, but it won't provide the quickest.
In my personal experience, the more aggressive you can go with LSD, the faster the car will be, but the harder it will become to drive. Keep in mind, this is relative to overall grip as well as Horsepower.

As for torque split... I try to use 50/50, because that's the benefit of AWD. Using 10/90 is trying to make the car something it's not. If you want a RWD car, then buy one, don't force an AWD to be a RWD. The only time I've had to start transferring power to the rear, is when the front tires are taking too much punishment, or the car is experiencing horrible understeer. This is usually more common with lower grade tires, when less grip is available.
Perfect example is the HKS we played with last night. With Race Softs, 50/50 was much faster for me, as it had enough grip to utilize all 4 corners. But with Sport Softs, the fronts were forced to do too much of the work and turning ability was sacrificed. In that scenario, I slowly start moving power to the rear, until you get an even amount of grip on all 4 corners, or as close as you can get, within your comfort level of overall balance.

lol that's pretty funny, your a gamer and don't like taking a realistic approach to tuning, I don't see why you don't just play NFS. You love the legal track shortcuts (shortcuts that don't kill the lap time) and exploits.

In the real world and if trying to get the realest experience possible, not caring if some kid with too much time on their hands has a faster Hot Lap then you (which means nothing at all) you will then see that Using AWD systems to get the advantages of RWD without the disadvantages of RWD is why it works on a track. So you ONLY want to send power to the front when the rear can't handle it all.

Why do you think the default values are 30/70 and not 50/50?
 
I use between 10 and 30 front distribution on 4wd cars on pavement becasue they will carry more corner speed and less understeer with lower front settings. For dirt, I am closer to 50/50.

Also, I am finding that 4wd cars respond well to very low front LSD settings on pavement. 5/5/5 being the most extreme, basically opening the diff as far as possible. The rear will have more affect on understeer/oversteer, but go back and re-adjust the front up a little to get rid of any inside front wheel spin.

For Dirt, I have been playing with higher front LSD settings, trying to create more drive off the corner.
 
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Thanks for the input!


Oh GTR, you hate it or love it.
Ok, AWD is an exception. Sometimes it's really needed to set a very low Front LSD.
Do you know what a 1 way diff is? It only affects the accel lock. During deccel, it works like a complete open diff. You see, accel could be higher than 5. Initial higher? I think front init 5 is the best.
No inside wheelspin? The GTR is a computer on 4 wheels! Anyway, inside spin is very rare on AWDs.

Yes, it handles identical. Try a little bit more front based distribution.

I read the GT5 APEX booklet and there is explained quite a lot about cars (basics, but gives me a good overview for people that aren't into cars a lot) so I know what a 1 way diff is, but not how it really works or so. The tuning guide written by Scaff writes initial 5 or 60 means the diff is either open or locked... this is wrong then?

I tend to a higher front distribution! My first laps with 50/50 gave me a very fast time, feels stable and it's almost impossible to spin the wheels on acceleration. The throttle understeer is something I have to deal with I guess... so if I try to eliminate more or less of it doesn't matter that much.

I think the reason you are having good results with low settings is because you are picking a 4wd car with moderate horsepower. The changes won't be as noticible on a car like the GTR that has plenty of grip to start and you're giving it even more grip with racing tires. Take the Toyota7 for a few laps with traction control off. Then you'll begin to understand the necessity of the LSD.

I have fully tuned my SpecV! It has 647 kW (868 hp) now! Do you still consider it a car with moderate hp and I use stock tyres (Sport Hard) and will add Racing Softs after I've done testing with the stock tyres. I know that a LSD is needed but the Toyota 7 is not a 4WD so you can't compare them and I'm sure that car needs a lot more of initial and accel! On decel I'm not sure I have not seen the bad effects if the decel is to low. What car apart from the FGT needs high decel settings to see this?


Start at 30/70 and test both ways, it's really going to be up to you.

What I've did was start at 10/90 then kept raising the front percent until I got the right feel. At 10/90 I was getting too much power in the rear for the low speed corners at Tsukuba, so I kept raising it until the rear wasn't overpowered and ripping apart when I throttled hard on exit.

On SS tires the rear rip apart a lot easier then on RS tires so I had to raise the front % to 32/68 to deal with it while on RS tires 10/90 was fast, and 18/82 was my sweet spot (at the time) so it depends first if your going for an S or R tire set up.

Then it will depend on if you want to use real world techniques, or use game exploits. Exploits have generally proven to be faster.

Would you say the same about LSD? That with racing tyres you need lower LSD values or values near to the lowest?

I don't really care about real world! I know don't know enough about real world racing and or cars and as long as it makes me faster and the car feels more fun to drive I'm fine! What exploits are you talking about?
 
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