LSD, Toe, & Anti roll bars settings explained?

[joetruckv8]

Anybody a genius on these settings, please post info?

 

[ManiacRS]

I don't consider myself a genius but I am a mechanical engineer and I know what each of them does in real life... Ask here or PM any questions you might have. But anyway here are a few quick rules I go by:

LSD: A big difference between the various settings will unsettle the car when going from the brake to the throttle and vice versa. Also try and set the acceleration setting to the lowest possible setting while still having the ideal cornering behaviour you're going for. For FF cars try to have the brake setting very low.

P.S. You can modulate the balance of the car through a corner more easily with the diff. than with a susp. setup. But, as a rule, that will generally use more rubber...

Toe: Front negative, rear positive. 98% of the time that's what you want. Toe mainly has an effect during braking end and corner entry. It can also have an effect on the apex (good or bad), but that's only when the susp. is being pushed and, finally, during a launch. The last one is extremely important in a dragstrip but it'll cost you more than it gives you in a circuit. Also, high values limit the top speed somewhat, and cause tyre wear.

Anti roll: An anti roll bar is a stiff piece of material (usually steel), that is used to control the relative extension or compression of each side of the car. It allows the wheels to do the same thing as far as up and down motion is concerned but not opposite things.

They have a very similar effect to what the springs do to the balance of the car. Also they give more speed and accuracy to the motion of the car. However, they make the car difficult over humps, curbs and so on.

My advice: set as low as you can get away with. However that is more of a personal preference.

Bare in mind that they should be set along with the springs. I prefer stiff springs and soft antiroll some prefer the other way around. However, Colin Chapman is supposed to have said that "Stiff anti roll bars are for those who can't set up the dampers properly".

They have the same effect to tyre wear as springs.

LOL... I know, not so quick... The rules I mean... And again, bare in mind that these setting are, very much a matter of preference. What I find annoying, some else might find comfortable. That's because every driver behaves in a slightly different manner behind the wheel. Different driving styles...

Last tip: Start from an understeering setup and make it as agile as you want. That way you'll probably end up with a safer setup. And make sure all 4 tyres are stressed similarly...

 

[Motor City Hami]

Scaff's Guide is pretty good. I also wrote about these settings in my tuning garage. Link below.

 

[joetruckv8]

I don't consider myself a genius but I am a mechanical engineer and I know what each of them does in real life... Ask here or PM any questions you might have. But anyway here are a few quick rules I go by:

LSD: A big difference between the various settings will unsettle the car when going from the brake to the throttle and vice versa. Also try and set the acceleration setting to the lowest possible setting while still having the ideal cornering behaviour you're going for. For FF cars try to have the brake setting very low.

P.S. You can modulate the balance of the car through a corner more easily with the diff. than with a susp. setup. But, as a rule, that will generally use more rubber...

Toe: Front negative, rear positive. 98% of the time that's what you want. Toe mainly has an effect during braking end and corner entry. It can also have an effect on the apex (good or bad), but that's only when the susp. is being pushed and, finally, during a launch. The last one is extremely important in a dragstrip but it'll cost you more than it gives you in a circuit. Also, high values limit the top speed somewhat, and cause tyre wear.

Anti roll: An anti roll bar is a stiff piece of material (usually steel), that is used to control the relative extension or compression of each side of the car. It allows the wheels to do the same thing as far as up and down motion is concerned but not opposite things.

They have a very similar effect to what the springs do to the balance of the car. Also they give more speed and accuracy to the motion of the car. However, they make the car difficult over humps, curbs and so on.

My advice: set as low as you can get away with. However that is more of a personal preference.

Bare in mind that they should be set along with the springs. I prefer stiff springs and soft antiroll some prefer the other way around. However, Colin Chapman is supposed to have said that "Stiff anti roll bars are for those who can't set up the dampers properly".

They have the same effect to tyre wear as springs.

LOL... I know, not so quick... The rules I mean... And again, bare in mind that these setting are, very much a matter of preference. What I find annoying, some else might find comfortable. That's because every driver behaves in a slightly different manner behind the wheel. Different driving styles...

Last tip: Start from an understeering setup and make it as agile as you want. That way you'll probably end up with a safer setup. And make sure all 4 tyres are stressed similarly...

I just ran a test and setting the anti-roll bars to anything above 4 greatly wears the tires quick'

 

[ManiacRS]

If you want to have such stiff anti roll bars, which I would try and avoid, try and softening the springs and/or the damper rebound (extension)... But as a rule, try and keep the rebound stronger than the bump (compression).

However, I only use anti roll over 4 in cars with a lot of downforce to cope with the increased cornering G...

 

[CSLACR]

If you want to have such stiff anti roll bars, which I would try and avoid, try and softening the springs and/or the damper rebound (extension)... But as a rule, try and keep the rebound stronger than the bump (compression).

However, I only use anti roll over 4 in cars with a lot of downforce to cope with the increased cornering G...

Stiff suspension in general wears the tires quickly from what I've seen. But then stiffer gives me faster laps, so it's more of a balance act imo.

 

[ManiacRS]

Stiff suspension in general wears the tires quickly from what I've seen. But then stiffer gives me faster laps, so it's more of a balance act imo.

Quite right... It is like a balancing act... And that's why one drivers ideal setup is not so good for another one... If it's really fine tuned I mean..!

P.S. Using one, or many driver aids, can totally change the response of the car to any sort of tuning...

 

[crowhop]

P.S. Using one, or many driver aids, can totally change the response of the car to any sort of tuning...

Probably the most important thing in this thread.
A well-tuned LSD won't need traction control or skid recovery.

 

[Adrenaline]

A well-tuned LSD won't need traction control or skid recovery.

Doesn't matter how well you tune an LSD, Skid Recovery will make you faster. That's why it's a garbage aid that shouldn't ever be used.

 

[ManiacRS]

All driver aids can be turned off in an online room from the regulations page. So they are of no consequence. What I meant was that having them on might cause them to be triggered more or less often according to a certain value change which would alter the effect you were expecting when you changed that value.

As for the balance of the car, between under and oversteer, I actually try to avoid adjusting that through the diff. in the case of a fully customizable car. I use the diff to smoothen the transition from throttle to brake and to ensure there is no wheelspin when accelerating.

Ideally I would set up the suspension to manage the weight (distribution and change of thereof during braking and acceleration) of the car, the diff. to manage the torque of the car(as mentioned above), and the alignment to give me the behaviour balance I want. That is practically unachievable, but that is my initial approach and I compromise as I go along. I believe that this is the best way to go about developing a setup...

P.S. Driving in a room where driver aids are allowed while you have them turned off is actually great practice... And driving with 1 or 2 compounds difference from the best tyre allowed is also excellent practice... So if you're somewhere and winning comfortably, do that...
It will make you a better driver.