Model nitro cars

  • Thread starter Thread starter Slick Rick
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I searched the forum but surprisingly i didnt find a proper one on these cars.

Post your nitro cars and anything intresting about them.

I have a Kyosho Ultima RB. Ive had it for about 2 years and have recently bought the suspension and wheels from a monster truck. Ill fit them soon. Heres some pics of my car:

I think the car looks a bit thin so i made some side skirts for it:

I made them from soft aluminum and cut them to shape and then filed them down. I had some spare decals from a few of my other models so i stuck them on too. Ive also painted the wheels black.
The engine's a GX15. I dont know any of the stats like max RPM or HP but it is very reliable and easy to tune. I use Quickfire 12% fuel with a Quickfire plug which is probally why it starts up so fast.
 
Nice, only nitro R/C vehicle I got is a monster truck. :sly:

HPI Racing's well known R/C monster truck the Savage 25. These pics are old of when I got it new which was early this year I think. So far all I've done to it is cosmetic, no engine mods whatsoever at the moment, its still got the stock .25 engine in there with stock air filter. The cosmetic stuff is:

Extra bodyshells (Ford F-150, GMC Sierra. (With a possible Dodge Charger General Lee in the future.))
Fuel tank guard
GS Racing rims and tires
Suspension tweaked for lower ride height.




I'll try get some up to date pics to show the different parts.
 
Heres my race truck, its a Traxxas Revo with a few mods

RB tm323 .23 engine, header, tuned pipe
increased compression (turbo chamber)
RB buggy racing filter/prefilter
Pull start
foward only conversion
p2 rockers, stiffer springs, heavier oil
airtronics mx3-s
airtronics 358 Steering servo
spikey tires, proline dish rims
Razor racing aluminum servo mounts
7075 aluminum pushrods
Proline crowd pleaser 2 body airbrushed by me (it was my first paint job :indiff: )
Running odonnell 20% nitro



 
Nice cars guys. I've had a few including an associated RC10GT factory team with an RBx12 engine, schumacher swift 1/8th buggy, kyosho mp7.5 1/8th buggy and an old mardave marauder (which I sold). I only have pics of the marauder though:

 
sting
Suspension tweaked for lower ride height.

I lowered mine and it was crap! The suspension didnt have enough travel and kept jumping and hitting the ground which made it a lot slower so i had to harden it but then the dampers werent as effective. Keep the ride hight high with a soft suspension and then your car can go almost anywhere and still keep all 4 wheels on the ground.
 
I am new to this hobby. I built my car using the nitro racer magazine. I am going to post the photos of it complete at my blog, http://www.gt4zone.ath.cx/jon/index.php/rc-cars :)

If you want an direct link to the pic's look below :P
http://www.gt4zone.ath.cx/jon/images/mycar01.jpg - Glow charge
http://www.gt4zone.ath.cx/jon/images/mycar02.jpg - the decal sheet
http://www.gt4zone.ath.cx/jon/images/mycar03.jpg - the engine and fuel tank
http://www.gt4zone.ath.cx/jon/images/mycar04.jpg - The car
http://www.gt4zone.ath.cx/jon/images/mycar05.jpg - Frount of the car
http://www.gt4zone.ath.cx/jon/images/mycar06.jpg - Rear of the car

The reason the car is so clean, is that these pics were taken before the first run of the engine, but mycar04.jpg was not, because it has fuel still in the pipes. It is not that clean now :)

I still have to tune the carb needle, and reset the idle speed because it's accelleration is a bit slow lol. It also uses 5% fuel, and it is on the 27mhz band with kyosho's perfex transmitter and reciever.
 
Awesome cars guy, you all should post up the prices for these cars [I'm interested in getting one sometime]
 
I think my Savage was £250 ($450), i cant remember exactly but I got mine of eBay :D
 
My Revo goes for about $450-$500. Thats all ready to run and everything except for gas and a starter battery.

I've got another $450 into it probably :indiff:. Their so much fun though :)
 
DARRKCLOUD
I still have to tune the carb needle, and reset the idle speed because it's accelleration is a bit slow lol. It also uses 5% fuel, and it is on the 27mhz band with kyosho's perfex transmitter and reciever.

Yea you do the fuel mix first with the needle valve and then set the idling because once its tuned the car will rev higher and it will move when you dont want to and if its on grass or similar surfaces your clutch will wear so set the idling as low as possible. Your using 5% fuel so you may have to screw the needle in more than you expected. When i had 25% fuel my needle valve was unscrewed 3 turns and now its on 10% its on 2 turns. Its well tuned at 1 and 3/4 but i like to run my car slightly rich.

My car was ready to run where it comes with everything apart from the batterys and fuel but i really wanted a kit you have to build from scratch. It cost £250 but the shop also gave me 12 rechargable batterys, the chargers and the 25% fuel free :D .
 
It also uses 5% fuel, and it is on the 27mhz band with kyosho's perfex transmitter and reciever.

With that engine you should be using at least 10% fuel, maybe 16%. 5% is way too low. Also, since you're on 27mhz, I would buy a failsafe (goes between the receiver and throttle servo) to prevent a runaway (if you lose signal, it puts the brakes on).
 
ouch i would never dream of running 5%, I run TornadoFuel 20% in my Savage 25.
 
Nice cars guys, I like the look of the Revo. Was looking at buying one recently, but decided to buy 1:18 scale models instead. I already have a Schumacher 21 XTR 3e, I bought it because its the fastest 1:10 scale stadium truck (or was). It is VERY fast, I like racing motorbikes :) and beating them of course :sly:. Its currently not running at the mo, I stripped my 2nd gear when I last took it out. It can wheelie with ease, donuts, jumps, but it is a bit hard to control if you arent careful, and it does break a bit easy. I hardly see any other people with nitro RC cars, its sad that it isnt very popular :indiff:
 
d12dotcom
I hardly see any other people with nitro RC cars, its sad that it isnt very popular :indiff:

Maybe it hasn't caught on by you, but here in northern NJ its pretty popular. All summer long the lowest turnout to a race was 115 entries. :)
 
I have an HPI R40 with a Max .12 engine (of some unknown model).

I was having trouble running it in so I took it back into the shop I bought the chassis from to get it run in for me. It was getting too frustrating for me and I didn't want to loose my temper and do something drastic :eek:

engine25dz.jpg


r40a3wr.jpg


Nothing with the engine in the car yet.
 
I've got a Tamiya TerraCrusher that's a few years old. I have had it for a year and a half, although it's currently out of comission due to a stripped spur gear.
I bought it off of EBay for $230 US, and am probably into it about $450-500 CDN. I made a mistake of buying it used, because when I do use it, it breaks frequently. I have had lots of trouble with suspension and half-shafts.
Now that I have a job, I think I'm going to take it in to the local hobby shop and see if they will fix it. I could do it myself, but I don't have the time right now.
 
So far I've got 3 1:10 scale nitro cars.

An HPI RS4 2,RS4 3,and RS4 3 Evo all with Nitro Star 15's in them.
The RS4 2 has the most mods and the RS4 3 EVO came with some cool
goodies.
I've got some ideas in my head about some stuff I want to do to the
RS4 3 (not the EVO) but I dont have the funds:(

I would post pics but I have no way to yet.
 
If i was to run my car now in winter do you think the speed of the engine would increase because of the cold air or would it not make any difference (In the UK its about 3 to -7 degrees celcius in winter)

Im itching to drive it in the park because obviously knowone is in the basketball courts so maybe if i get some time ill set up a few ramps there and have some fun!! the last time i drove my car was around August time and am starting to miss the sound of it :indiff: .
 
The air is colder and therefore denser, but on such a small motor, there would hardly be a difference. It shouldn't hurt it to run it at any time of the year.
 
My MGT is getting lonely. I think I may get the diffs fixed soon.

Take it into the LHS and ask him to strip it, clean it, and see what needs fixing and what doesn't. Maybe a new steering servo and a hump pack. Honestly, it's been downstairs sitting there for almost a year. I also need a shock rebuild.
 
standard235
My MGT is getting lonely. I think I may get the diffs fixed soon.

Take it into the LHS and ask him to strip it, clean it, and see what needs fixing and what doesn't. Maybe a new steering servo and a hump pack. Honestly, it's been downstairs sitting there for almost a year. I also need a shock rebuild.

I don't know about you but i only go to my model shop to buy parts but not to get it fixed. If you make repairs yourself you will learn a lot about your car and its also very satisfying but if the damage is bad or you don't have the time, then id just give it to the shop ;)
 
Slick Rick
OMG! those driveshafts are huge! do they really need to be so thick??

The new wheels look really nice, your making me jealous:guilty:

Well at least they look solid. The stock ones on my HPI Savage look fragile. :nervous:
 
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