Monaco - Help From You Guys

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JknRich

JknRich

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JknRich
Tomorrow night I am racing online at Monaco. The car is a S2000 06. Its fully tuned running around 421 BHP. Its a 30 lap race.

Tire and fuel wear is on.
Tire choice is
Racing Hards
Racing Mediums
Racing Softs.

My question is, what is the best way to attack Monaco, do I start on softs and try and get a good start and work from there. I do not know of hards will be any good.

Im just looking the for the best ways to race here
 
If you can stick with only 1 compound use always the softs.
Tire wear isn´t different with any other Compound
=> Softs are faster and last the same as Hards/Meds maybe even longer

And if you have to use 2 compounds use Meds and Soft.
I would suggest first stint with Meds due to close racing and maybe incidents
=> you don´t screw the faster Tires.
 
I'm not sure about tire choice or pitting strategies, but I do know that Monaco (or whatever it's called in GT5) depends on acceleration and cornering rather that pure speed. Adjust the transmission to suit the track - I don't think you'll need to stretch it out too much.
 
KingSakery
If you can stick with only 1 compound use always the softs.
Tire wear isn´t different with any other Compound
=> Softs are faster and last the same as Hards/Meds maybe even longer
Click to expand...

I have yet to see this. ive been running F1 and lot of other types of vehicles online since the game was relesed and even before they changed the tire ware recently softer compounds always ware quicker , ive never heard anyone say any tire lasts the same as a diffrent compound. you must be either a genius at you tire ware or your playing a diffrent game.

But now some advice to this fine racer here , your gonna want to setup your car a little softer in your S2K id say a spring rate around 7-9 ish and run your cambers between 2.5-3.2 . your gearing should be short just enoff so so that 6th gear has just enoff to allow for a little room for drafting without redlining.
you should watch the fastlap replay's in the seasonal Monaco event because even in the F1 those guys have a very good racing line so you study that up a bit.
 
Thia advice from all is solid. Will be given it ago.

Here is the beast I am running
Bern-Marktgasse.jpg


Has to be my fav car at the minutem anymore advice guys.
 
Someone has done some pretty extensive testing (Chuyler?), and it might be stickied somewhere, comparing RH,RM and RS compounds and the RS compound won every time. The lap time advantage outweighs the tire wear disadvantage and extra pit stop(s) in longer races. Someone mentioned above that RS tires last just as long and that's not true if you are going at racing speed. It might be true if you run the same laptimes on both compounds but the advantage of RS tires is the lower lap times.

The key is making them last. Softer brake balances like 2/1 or 1/2 helps and barely affects lap times. I've won several longer races with brake balances like that. Don't oversteer the car, meaning don't turn the wheels beyond what is needed so make sure the car is tuned for a sharper front end so you aren't fighting understeer. Do a test run and find out what the car is like later in the run. You will probably find the front end wearing faster at Monaco so you might be able to adjust your tune around that. Adjust for oversteer at first and the car will come back to neutral later in the run.

You can run RS tires down pretty low before you need to change them but your target should be either 10 or 15 laps. If you can make it to 10 you need 2 stops. 15 is unlikely but you never know and that would be ideal. When you start losing about more than 3 or 4 seconds a lap that's the time to change the tires. Don't wait until they are bald and losing 5+ seconds a lap to save a pit stop because it won't pay in the end. And remember not to take fuel on in the pit stop. A full fuel load does affect laptimes.

Last but not least the golden rule of tire wear is:

Squealing tires are not happy tires!!

Tire squeal = tire wear in GT5 so drive as smooth as you can avoiding tire squeal and that will maximize tire life.


EDIT: Just noticed your picture. Take the wing off. It is completely unneccary at that PP level on racing tires and just creates understeer and robs you of HP.

EDIT2: Found that data: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=236549&highlight=tire+wear
 
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KingSakery
If you can stick with only 1 compound use always the softs.
Tire wear isn´t different with any other Compound
=> Softs are faster and last the same as Hards/Meds maybe even longer
Click to expand...

I don't know how long it's been since you last played the game, but tire wear is different for each tire, and has been for quite some time now.
 
Johnnypenso
Someone has done some pretty extensive testing (Chuyler?), and it might be stickied somewhere, comparing RH,RM and RS compounds and the RS compound won every time. The lap time advantage outweighs the tire wear disadvantage and extra pit stop(s) in longer races. Someone mentioned above that RS tires last just as long and that's not true if you are going at racing speed. It might be true if you run the same laptimes on both compounds but the advantage of RS tires is the lower lap times.

The key is making them last. Softer brake balances like 2/1 or 1/2 helps and barely affects lap times. I've won several longer races with brake balances like that. Don't oversteer the car, meaning don't turn the wheels beyond what is needed so make sure the car is tuned for a sharper front end so you aren't fighting understeer. Do a test run and find out what the car is like later in the run. You will probably find the front end wearing faster at Monaco so you might be able to adjust your tune around that. Adjust for oversteer at first and the car will come back to neutral later in the run.

You can run RS tires down pretty low before you need to change them but your target should be either 10 or 15 laps. If you can make it to 10 you need 2 stops. 15 is unlikely but you never know and that would be ideal. When you start losing about more than 3 or 4 seconds a lap that's the time to change the tires. Don't wait until they are bald and losing 5+ seconds a lap to save a pit stop because it won't pay in the end. And remember not to take fuel on in the pit stop. A full fuel load does affect laptimes.

Last but not least the golden rule of tire wear is:

Squealing tires are not happy tires!!

Tire squeal = tire wear in GT5 so drive as smooth as you can avoiding tire squeal and that will maximize tire life.


EDIT: Just noticed your picture. Take the wing off. It is completely unneccary at that PP level on racing tires and just creates understeer and robs you of HP.

EDIT2: Found that data: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=236549&highlight=tire+wear
Click to expand...

Was the testing done after the update that changed tyre wear and made it logical to change to a strategy other then racing softs?
 
I have a feeling it will be 3 pit stop in RS and 2 in RMedium.
Maybe RM rear but it might have a bad effect.
 
Johnnypenso
Someone has done some pretty extensive testing (Chuyler?), and it might be stickied somewhere, comparing RH,RM and RS compounds and the RS compound won every time. The lap time advantage outweighs the tire wear disadvantage and extra pit stop(s) in longer races. Someone mentioned above that RS tires last just as long and that's not true if you are going at racing speed. It might be true if you run the same laptimes on both compounds but the advantage of RS tires is the lower lap times.

The key is making them last. Softer brake balances like 2/1 or 1/2 helps and barely affects lap times. I've won several longer races with brake balances like that. Don't oversteer the car, meaning don't turn the wheels beyond what is needed so make sure the car is tuned for a sharper front end so you aren't fighting understeer. Do a test run and find out what the car is like later in the run. You will probably find the front end wearing faster at Monaco so you might be able to adjust your tune around that. Adjust for oversteer at first and the car will come back to neutral later in the run.

You can run RS tires down pretty low before you need to change them but your target should be either 10 or 15 laps. If you can make it to 10 you need 2 stops. 15 is unlikely but you never know and that would be ideal. When you start losing about more than 3 or 4 seconds a lap that's the time to change the tires. Don't wait until they are bald and losing 5+ seconds a lap to save a pit stop because it won't pay in the end. And remember not to take fuel on in the pit stop. A full fuel load does affect laptimes.

Last but not least the golden rule of tire wear is:

Squealing tires are not happy tires!!

Tire squeal = tire wear in GT5 so drive as smooth as you can avoiding tire squeal and that will maximize tire life.

EDIT: Just noticed your picture. Take the wing off. It is completely unneccary at that PP level on racing tires and just creates understeer and robs you of HP.

EDIT2: Found that data: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=236549&highlight=tire+wear
Click to expand...


Thank all again. I love this site. I am so new compare to you guys. Why does the ring wing do what you say mate. And dam it looks cool haha
 
I'd run a two-stop strategy, but that's only because I'm comfortable with saving my tires.
 
Im going to see how many laps I can get out of softs and try and get at least 10. I have been known in the league to be able to save my tires, but this has lost me time in the past. So my task is to find a happy medium
 
I've just been running 10 laps of La Sarthe in the dark with a Jaguar XJR 9. In three laps I ran the Softs to destrcution so much so that I crawled into the last section of corners before the pits in 1st at 30mph and lost it for want of grip. The next 3 laps on RM saw me get home on lap 6 with a little tread to spare. The last four laps were on RH and I got up to 2nd place before I nursed the car to the finish for most of the last lap as the RHs were shot. I did manage to keep 2nd place by a whisker.

So for me RS wear out faster than RM which wear out faster than RH.
 
Ok I need help with the Suspension and wheel alignment

Ride Height
0 - 0

Spring rate
7.0 - 9.0

Dampers Extension
4 - 4

Dampers Compression
4 - 4

Anti-Roll Bars
3 - 3

Camber Angle
2.5 - 3.2

Toe Angle
0.00 - 0.20

And how should I have my gears.

Also my lsd. I do not want to really get into a drift.

Should I add ballast
 
McClarenDesign
Want us to run the race too? Lol, check the tuning forum.
Click to expand...

If you dont mind lol. Ill re post it in the tuning forum and get this topic back on track. Sorry about that.
 
JknRich
If you dont mind lol. Ill re post it in the tuning forum and get this topic back on track. Sorry about that.
Click to expand...

If you want someone to test against, I race Monoco each night, around 10p. Only 4 laps, but you should get a good idea of how you're doing. It'll be a good reason to drag my 86 out and play.
 
McClarenDesign
If you want someone to test against, I race Monoco each night, around 10p. Only 4 laps, but you should get a good idea of how you're doing. It'll be a good reason to drag my 86 out and play.
Click to expand...

Would be really good bar. I cant get on before race as I am out later tonight but still add me as I would like help and maybe you can help me.
 
JknRich
Would be really good bar. I cant get on before race as I am out later tonight but still add me as I would like help and maybe you can help me.
Click to expand...

Send me a message on the PSN.
 
What peoplea tips for the hair pin on here. I lose so much time goinh through it.

Is your psn the same as your user name.
 
On my F1 car, I used -20 toe on the front to help with the cornering especially round the hairpin. I'm not sure what setting would be suitable for a road car though, but a - toe on the front may be worth trying.
 
JknRich
Thank all again. I love this site. I am so new compare to you guys. Why does the ring wing do what you say mate. And dam it looks cool haha
Click to expand...

It creates more grip at the back, which means you need more grip at the front to compensate and rebalance the car or you end up in an understeer situation and with more wear in the front. And it's very tough to come across more front grip without front downforce. In my opinion, a wing is almost never necessary on any street car on racing tires at any PP level unless it's accompanied by some front downforce and even then, anything below 600PP usually benefits more from added HP.
 
JknRich
What peoplea tips for the hair pin on here. I lose so much time goinh through it.

Is your psn the same as your user name.
Click to expand...

Yes it is.

Work on your lines and braking first. The corner is so slow, tuning won't help much.
 
JknRich
What peoplea tips for the hair pin on here. I lose so much time goinh through it.

Is your psn the same as your user name.
Click to expand...

With RS tires on this car a Decel setting on the LSD of 5 should be fine. The higher the Decel setting the harder it is to go through tighter corners like the really tight hairpins at Monaco. A Decel of 5 will take the LSD out of the equation on the tight corners.
 
Yes I wrote it fast down but the Result is the same.
With RS your faster in the end and due to faster times you can achieve, you have some room for going slower.
If you always drive maximum pace you sure screw the Tires fast, but if you stay 1 second off of your max time, you can make more laps and are still faster than the RH/RM users.

But that´s something someone posted better with a link 👍

If you have to keep the wing (race regulations for example) use minimum Downforce.
=> minimal understeer and a slightly better grounded rear for acceleration

Lower the Camber because that eats Tires (my experience).
2.0/1.8 or even lower is ok.

Slightly more negative front Toe helps a bit with steering.
I use -0.22/-0.20 with FR cars and it helps a bit.

Maybe lower the rear ride height a bit (I´m never faster with this but I do read often it helps maybe cause I use DS3).

LSD: 8/16/8 or even lower deaccel it works for me.
 
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