Motor City Tunes PC2 GaragePC 

Hi motor-city-hami

could you make a a base setup for Ginetta G40 Junior that we could save to all tracks and then we adjust as we needded
tanks
 
The very first tune:

Ginetta G40 Junior
This car behaves very badly from mid-corner to exit. It is a bit tail happy from just before the apex, all the way to the track out point. Project Cars does allow us to tune, but the physics model is so good that you simply cannot game the system and tune out all of a car's bad behavior. Even with an optimized tune the Ginetta G40 Junior needs extra driving attention on corner exit. I drove this car for 150 miles while tuning today and finally feel like she's a contender. Also, I did a symmetrical setup, only because I tuned all day and didn't notice that I could uncheck that box. I would have adjusted camber for each tire.

Driving tip: Go ahead and be aggressive under braking and corner exit, but think about turning the wheel back toward center a little as you pass the corner apex. Be ready to catch her if you early apexed and tried to grab more wheel on exit. You've got to hit your marks at the apex or it's not going to go well.

Track: Oulton Park Fosters

Wheel

Tuned with ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5 and ClubSport Pedals V3 with damper and performance kit

Tires/Brakes/Chassis

1.50 Front Tire Pressure (Bar)
1.44 Rear Right Tire Pressure (Bar)
93% Brake Pressure
60/40 Brake Balance
52.0/48.0 Longitudinal Weight Bias

Suspension
13.5:1 Steering Ratio
-2.0 Front Camber Angle (degrees)
-1.7 Rear Left Camber Angle (degrees)
-0.1 Front Toe-In Angle (degrees)
+1.0 Rear Toe-In Angle (degrees)
180 Front Sway Bar (N/mm)
45 Rear Sway Bar (N/mm)
87 Front Ride Height (mm)
85 Rear Ride Height (mm)

Dampers
20 Front Bump Stop (mm)
20 Rear Bump Stop (mm)
7000 Front Left Slow Bump (N/m/s)
3700 Rear Left Slow Bump (N/m/s)
14450 Front Slow Rebound (N/m/s)
18650 Rear Right Slow Rebound (N/m/s)
Bump Transiton On
-695N Rebound Transition

ECU/Engine/Gearing
12L Fuel
75% Radiator Opening
5 Engine Braking

Gearing (stock)
Final Drive 3.917
1st Gear 3.000
2nd Gear 1.533
3rd Gear 1.235
4th Gear 1.050
5th Gear 0.920
6th Gear 0.833

ECU
25% Traction Control
80% ABS Strength

Differential
Clutch LSD On
40 Nm Preload
25 deg Power Ramp
40 deg Coast Ramp
All other LSD settings off


OMG old friend! So many questions for you Hami.........I am considering getting the Clubsport Wheel Base v2.5, etc., etc., Would you recommend it now that you have one? Would you say it works well with PC2?

Cheers! 👍
 
Hi motor-city-hami

could you make a a base setup for Ginetta G40 Junior that we could save to all tracks and then we adjust as we needded
tanks

I think the posted set up is just that, the starting point for all other tracks. I would adjust tire pressures and camber, first, to match the next track. Then, if still needing some fine tuning, look to the front sway bar, ride height and damper slow bound/rebound.
 
I think the posted set up is just that, the starting point for all other tracks. I would adjust tire pressures and camber, first, to match the next track. Then, if still needing some fine tuning, look to the front sway bar, ride height and damper slow bound/rebound.

Nice and tanks for the advices will try on the other tracks for shure its riding much better
Regards
 
OMG old friend! So many questions for you Hami.........I am considering getting the Clubsport Wheel Base v2.5, etc., etc., Would you recommend it now that you have one? Would you say it works well with PC2?

Cheers! 👍

I love the wheel and pedal combination. It has been great for Project Cars one and two as well as Asseta Corsa and Forza 6. I purchased a G920 first so have that as a comparison in the other games prior to Project Cars 2. The Fanatec is so quiet and so much more sturdy. The FFB is way stronger too. I have it turned down to 35% in PC2 becasue even at 50% it was artificially too strong compared to full sized race cars that I have driven. There is no need to create arm fatigue - just need to adjust to still feel the road. The brake pedal is the biggest difference as far as lap time improvement goes. The load cell and the shock absorber make a closer experience to real life. Still not quite real world, but as close as I have found. I did IRacing for a bit and hated it, because of the braking.

A couple of tips:
1. Brake Pressure should not be overlooked. At 95 to 100%, you may be reaching full braking and lock up in the first 1/4 of pedal movement. Lowering the brake pressure setting in the tuning menus allow for you to get deeper into the pedal before lock up and ultimately allows for more fine control of braking. I like to hit lock up about 3/4 or further into the pedal movement.

2. Steering Ratio has a similar affect on driving smoothly as the trick mentioned above for brake pressure. A higher number allows the wheel in your hands to move a further distance for the same amount of car wheel movement. If you drive a car that feels "darty" or overly aggressive on entry or oversteers at the slightest wheel movement, raise this number. Or on the other hand, if you find that you have to turn the wheel really far, so much so that you are crossing your hands, lower this number.

I have not tested, but would think that these two trick would also help D-pad controller users too?
 
Shout out to Motor City Hami. Not all real cars handle beautifully in reality. Great work here BTW, very impressed. I started my interest in sims way back in 1998 making setups for sims on a little website which became SimBin.com...

Thanks. Nice observation. The Ginetta felt a lot like my real life Miata at Mid-Ohio on a hot August day. No matter how much I try to get additional rear grip in the heat of August, the car is going to be a bit of a tiger on corner exit. You just have to be on top of it and ready to catch her if she desides to wander or if you missed corner entry and early apexed. And at other times of the year, say early the cooler months like April or October, the car will be more balanced. In those parts of the season, I need to stiffen rear sway bars and adjust tire pressures to push the grip more forward.
 
Tonight I decided to try a new circuit - Circuit of the Americas. I have wanted to take my Miata there, but it is a 20 hour tow to get from Michigan to Austin. I did the full track and man that section of continuous rights and lefts on the downhill side of the track is challenging. I would need hours of practice in Project Cars before ever thinking of attempting that in the Miata. The first SCCA race event there had like 60 Miatas entered.

I chose the Corvette C7R as my learning tool. The handling on this car is very good with the standard tune on it. I recommend this car to anyone who is trying to learn Project Cars or a new track for the first time. The Corvette is pretty well balanced. You have to get it to the limit to find the bad behaviors.
- Slight entry understeer
- Mid-corner understeer, followed by snap oversteer with too much wheel input
- Transitions from right to left are so super important at Circuit of the Americas

I did tune a little, but am still pretty far behind this track. I took a little camber out of both front and rear. I lowered the front tire pressure a couple of clicks. Other than that, I am currently simply trying to learn this track/car combo. There is time to gain with tuning on this car, but it will be of the fine tuning kind. This is a great car for anyone who does not like to tune - you can still be fast with it.

I need more time with this car before posting any meaningful tune.
 
Ginetta G40 Junior
This car behaves very badly from mid-corner to exit. It is a bit tail happy from just before the apex, all the way to the track out point. Project Cars does allow us to tune, but the physics model is so good that you simply cannot game the system and tune out all of a car's bad behavior. Even with an optimized tune the Ginetta G40 Junior needs extra driving attention on corner exit. I drove this car for 150 miles while tuning today and finally feel like she's a contender. Also, I did a symmetrical setup, only because I tuned all day and didn't notice that I could uncheck that box. I would have adjusted camber for each tire.

Driving tip: Go ahead and be aggressive under braking and corner exit, but think about turning the wheel back toward center a little as you pass the corner apex. Be ready to catch her if you early apexed and tried to grab more wheel on exit. You've got to hit your marks at the apex or it's not going to go well.

Track: Oulton Park Fosters

Wheel

Tuned with ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5 and ClubSport Pedals V3 with damper and performance kit

Tires/Brakes/Chassis

1.50 Front Tire Pressure (Bar)
1.44 Rear Right Tire Pressure (Bar)
93% Brake Pressure
60/40 Brake Balance
52.0/48.0 Longitudinal Weight Bias

Suspension
13.5:1 Steering Ratio
-2.0 Front Camber Angle (degrees)
-1.7 Rear Left Camber Angle (degrees)
-0.1 Front Toe-In Angle (degrees)
+1.0 Rear Toe-In Angle (degrees)
180 Front Sway Bar (N/mm)
45 Rear Sway Bar (N/mm)
87 Front Ride Height (mm)
85 Rear Ride Height (mm)

Dampers
20 Front Bump Stop (mm)
20 Rear Bump Stop (mm)
7000 Front Left Slow Bump (N/m/s)
3700 Rear Left Slow Bump (N/m/s)
14450 Front Slow Rebound (N/m/s)
18650 Rear Right Slow Rebound (N/m/s)
Bump Transiton On
-695N Rebound Transition

ECU/Engine/Gearing
12L Fuel
75% Radiator Opening
5 Engine Braking

Gearing (stock)
Final Drive 3.917
1st Gear 3.000
2nd Gear 1.533
3rd Gear 1.235
4th Gear 1.050
5th Gear 0.920
6th Gear 0.833

ECU
25% Traction Control
80% ABS Strength

Differential
Clutch LSD On
40 Nm Preload
25 deg Power Ramp
40 deg Coast Ramp
All other LSD settings off
 
Caterham Seven 620R
Built this tune for the current PC2 Launch Event #2. I would not call this a completed tune. I spent only about 30 minutes on it, but it will definately improve your lap times over the standard tune. The Caterham is very tail happy, especially on corner exit. Below is my current tune that is set to tame the Caterham spirit a bit.

Driving tip: You can kind of muscle this car around a bit without too much trouble. Do not be an early apexer.

Track: Knockhill International

Wheel

Tuned with ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5 and ClubSport Pedals V3 with damper and performance kit

Tires/Brakes/Chassis

Semi-Slick Tires
1.37 Front Tire Pressure (Bar)
1.25 Rear Right Tire Pressure (Bar)
80% Brake Pressure
52/48 Brake Balance

Suspension
10.4:1 Steering Ratio
4.2 Caster Angle
-2.5 Front Camber Angle (degrees)
-1.5 Rear Left Camber Angle (degrees)
-0.1 Front Toe-In Angle (degrees)
+0.5 Rear Toe-In Angle (degrees)
60 Front Sway Bar (N/mm)
16 Rear Sway Bar (N/mm)
115 Front Ride Height (mm)
120 Rear Ride Height (mm)
53 Front Spring Rate (N/mm)
25 Rear Spring Rate (N/mm)

Dampers
Front
30 Front Bump Stop (mm)
11000 Front Slow Bump (N/m/s)
6800 Front Slow Rebound (N/m/s)
2300 Front Fast Bump (N/m/s)
3000 Front Fast Rebound (N/m/s)
685N Front Bump Transiton
-565N Front Rebound Transition

Rear
30 Rear Bump Stop (mm)
2950 Rear Slow Bump (N/m/s)
4000 Rear Slow Rebound (N/m/s)
1650 Rear Fast Bump (N/m/s)
1800 Rear Fast Rebound (N/m/s)
100N Rear Bump Transiton
-280N Rear Rebound Transition

ECU/Engine/Gearing
10L Fuel
65% Radiator Opening
3 Engine Braking

Gearing (stock)
Final Drive 3.615
1st Gear 2.182
2nd Gear 1.680
3rd Gear 1.368
4th Gear 1.150
5th Gear 1.000
6th Gear 0.871

ECU
12% Traction Control
85% ABS Strength

Differential
Clutch LSD On
50 Nm Preload
30 deg Power Ramp
25 deg Coast Ramp
All other LSD settings off
 
Awesome, thanks for the setups, will try them, especially the one for the Caterham at Knockhill.

A few things that came to mind as I was reading your latest posts:

- If you run specifically Time Trials, feel free to leave the fuel load at default, it will be forced to 5L, with no fuel usage at all, regardless of how your gameplay options are set I believe, just like in PC1.

- Again for Time Trials, on the Caterham you should be able to set the Radiator Opening to 0%, the engine shouldn't be negatively affected in the first few laps, or in other words, while your tires are in optimal condition. Definitely no damage to it, although I didn't check the power output a few laps in yet.

- You mentioned trying an asymmetrical setup and adjusting the camber to balance tire temps. Would I be correct that the way to do this is to run a few laps, check temps and increase the camber on tires that are colder? Would you perhaps also consider dropping the pressures on these tires, as I think that should also increase their temps?

- Did you experiment with the various new differential settings? The Clutch LSD settings is what we had in PC1, so I'm familiar with those, but the rest are all new to me and I'm not even sure if any of them are worth using together with others. That part of the setup is just scary now. :)
 
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I had a race at a Brazilian league. With the Ginneta. Full grid.
Used the car for the very first time. I had a connection issue and took some time inserting the parameters, and got only 5 min of qualy. Got 5th and then, at the race, I ended up winning and being the fastest driver.
I don't have any idea how Ginneta drives with default setup but with yours it is easy to drive. And I like how the car feels. Nice work and thank you for sharing!
 
Subscribed thread.
Great input in here.

What are your CSWv2.5 settings in the drivers and wheel if you don't mind sharing?

I have a v2 but I have a friend with it that might be interested :)
 
Well here is a good place to start :-) I am having trouble with the RX event for the Merc AMG 45 on the ice track. The race engineer in game isn't much help and applying the little I know has done SFA ;-) The Ai even on zero just kills me :-( I can't even complete a lap without stacking this thing.

Now to clarify a little I had no problems with Dirt Rally in all the snow/ice events and have the platinum for that. I am having no problems in PCARS2 RX events and have the all the other trophies for rain, snow ice etc. It is just this one event that is killing me.

Any ideas or a hint at a tune? TIA :-)
 
Hi,

thanks for your work and sharing the tunes.

The threadtitle is marked with "PC", didn't the tunes work for the PS4-version?

D.
 
Well here is a good place to start :-) I am having trouble with the RX event for the Merc AMG 45 on the ice track. The race engineer in game isn't much help and applying the little I know has done SFA ;-) The Ai even on zero just kills me :-( I can't even complete a lap without stacking this thing.

Now to clarify a little I had no problems with Dirt Rally in all the snow/ice events and have the platinum for that. I am having no problems in PCARS2 RX events and have the all the other trophies for rain, snow ice etc. It is just this one event that is killing me.

Any ideas or a hint at a tune? TIA :-)

I think this has to do with the studded tyres which are being looked at. Pretty sure I've read this somewhere
 
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