Motor City Tunes PC2 GaragePC 

RomKnight
I think this has to do with the studded tyres which are being looked at. Pretty sure I've read this somewhere
Click to expand...

Well that would certainly explain it as they just do not work the way i thought they should. Any idea where you read this?
 
You're a genius sir, my Ginetta Junior record lap time @Oulton Fosters went down by more than 2 Seconds! The Tune also works great for the 2nd stage @Knockhill...many thanks, keep it up.
 
Hammi from Dearborn I'm glad your doing PC2 tunes. Are these for PC or console, or does it matter? Followed you in GT-6 and the results were outstanding. Do you have any PC Assetto Corsa tunes you can share? Keep up the good work.
 
Hami, glad to see you back and on PC. Do you (Or anyone) know of real world driving lesson (You-Tube or any other video) at Algarve?
I love this track and would like to see a professional have a go at it. No matter the car but preferably a GT/GTE class.
Really cool to see you back.👍
 
TT92
Thankyou for that :-) It is nice to have what we thought was happening to be officially confirmed.

Sad really, it's just one of the many, many bugs to be sorted :-(
Click to expand...

We had 25 valid bugs, 5 of them 'strong'. I know it can seem more when you get constant repeats in a bug thread or a lot of feature requests listed as bugs but it really is that low. It's the best we've done since GTR2.

We've fixed most of these already internally and will be shipping them out very soon in patches.
 
Ford Falcon FG V8 Supercar

Track: Bathurst Mount Panorama

Wheel: Tuned with ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5 and ClubSport Pedals V3 with damper and performance kit

Car Bad Habits: Easy to lock the brakes and bad oversteer very late in the corner, past the apex, but before track out.

The Ford Falcon rolls through corner entry and around the apex in a very balanced way. It is terrible under braking and equally as poor at corner exit with massive oversteer.

Fixing the brakes - This should be an easy task. Lower the brake pressure and move the brake balance away from the tires that are locking under braking. Not so easy in this version of the game (V1.1.3.2). The tools for finding which end of the car is locking are not present yet in Project Cars 2. In PC1, there were yellow circles under the tires in the telemetry view and those circles provided valuable information about how the car was performing. The yellow circles seem to be missing in PC2. They show on screen when exiting the pits, but as soon as control is shifted from the AI to you, the circles disappear and do not return at any point during your session. This needs to be fixed if we are to effectively tune in PC2. So fixing the brakes on the Falcon is currently a bit of a guessing game. Here is where I landed after some trial and error.

- Lowered brake pressure from 95% to 86%. Lowering the brake pressure essentially moves threshold braking deeper into your brake pedal movement or controller stick movement. The default setting on the Falcon locks the brakes at about 1/4 pedal movement on my rig. I like the brakes to lock at about 3/4 pedal distance. It allows for more smooth and controlled braking. Controller users should play with this setting and maybe go even lower to get more control of braking in PC2.

- Adjusted brake balance from 55/45 to 56/44. This very subtle adjustment, changed the car from rear locking oversteer under braking to have a slight front lock, which is far easier to control.

Fixing the exit oversteer - The LSD is the first place I started. The differential was pretty much open (very little lock). One annoying part about the current LSD setting screens is that multiple LSD types can be turned on at the same time. In the Falcon menu it is unclear which LSD type is actually on the car. I tried adjusting all three separately. Gear and Viscous produced absolutely zero results on track. Clutch LSD seemed to improve the car in a noticeable way. Back to the missing yellow circles in telemetry HUD view, without them, it is complete trial and error to properly set up the LSD. In PC1, it was easy to see if one tire was breaking loose (not enough lock) or if both tires were breaking loose early in throttle application (too much lock). For now, you simply have to guess. With the Falcon, the Clutch LSD was fully open, so there was only one way to adjust. I kept adding 5% at a time between hot lap runs until the car felt more comfortable. I ended up adding lock to both Power Ramp (on throttle) and Coast Ramp (off throttle). It helped to stabilize the car on corner exit, under braking and in the downhill sections at Bathurst.

At this point, I had a very driveable car. I could turn consistently fast laps, but still had to work around the car a bit. So I turned my attention to the suspension. I took a wild swing and it worked. Bathurst is bumpy, narrow and has steep elevation changes. The rear of the car gets very light over the dropping hill sections. The theory I threw at the car (broke the rule of making more than one change at a time) was to soften the entire suspension, but increase the rear damping rebound. This should have made the car more reactive to the bumps while also slowing weight transfer from the rear to the front, equalling more rear traction on corner exit and over hills. Below are the settings that I changed. Boy did it work. The car got remarkably better, faster and more consistent. Way more fun to drive too.
- Springs one click softer front and two clicks softer rear
- Dampers on front down one click on all settings for bound and rebound
- Dampers rear down one click on all bump settings and up one click on all rebound settings

At this point, I stopped tuning and just drove the car for a number of laps. I almost put her back on the trailer, but went in for one last change. The car was very fun and behaved, but would slowly lose rear traction slightly from corner apex to exit. So I dropped the rear ARB one click and went back to hot lapping. The car may have a little more to gain through tuning, but after two hours and looking at 3 am, I was tired.

Tires/Brakes/Chassis
Soft Slick Front and Rear
1.62 Front Tire Pressure (Bar)
1.45 Rear Right Tire Pressure (Bar)
86% Brake Pressure
56/44 Brake Balance
75% Front Duct Opening
75% Rear Duct Opening
6.00 Rear Downforce
53.5/46.5 Longitudinal Weight Bias

Suspension
5.5 Front Caster Angle
-3.4 Front Camber Angle (degrees)
80 Front Ride Height (mm)
160 Front Spring Rate (N/mm)
12.5:1 Steering Ratio
0.0 Front Toe-In Angle (degrees)
120 Front Sway Bar (N/mm)

-3.0 Rear Camber Angle (degrees)
85 Rear Ride Height (mm)
110 Rear Spring Rate (N/mm)
+0.4 Rear Toe-In Angle (degrees)
23 Rear Sway Bar (N/mm)

Dampers
15 Front Bump Stop (mm)
15000 Front Left Slow Bump (N/m/s)
19000 Front Slow Rebound (N/m/s)
8500 Front Fast Bump (N/m/s)
10500 Front Fast Rebound (N/m/s)
450N Front Bump Transiton
-1075N Front Rebound Transition

15 Rear Bump Stop (mm)
6500 Rear Left Slow Bump (N/m/s)
16900 Rear Slow Rebound (N/m/s)
5200 Rear Fast Bump (N/m/s)
9400Rear Fast Rebound (N/m/s)
490N Rear Bump Transiton
-840N Rear Rebound Transition

ECU/Engine/Gearing
40L Fuel
80.10mm Air Restrictor
75% Radiator Opening
2 Engine Braking

Gearing (default)
Final Drive 3.558
1st Gear 2.357
2nd Gear 1.824
3rd Gear 1.474
4th Gear 1.238
5th Gear 1.042
6th Gear 0.920

ECU
10% Traction Control
75% ABS Strength
1.00 Fuel Map

Differential
Clutch LSD
0 Nm Preload
40 deg Power Ramp
65 deg Coast Ramp
 
Motor City Hami
I love the wheel and pedal combination. It has been great for Project Cars one and two as well as Asseta Corsa and Forza 6. I purchased a G920 first so have that as a comparison in the other games prior to Project Cars 2. The Fanatec is so quiet and so much more sturdy. The FFB is way stronger too. I have it turned down to 35% in PC2 becasue even at 50% it was artificially too strong compared to full sized race cars that I have driven. There is no need to create arm fatigue - just need to adjust to still feel the road. The brake pedal is the biggest difference as far as lap time improvement goes. The load cell and the shock absorber make a closer experience to real life. Still not quite real world, but as close as I have found. I did IRacing for a bit and hated it, because of the braking.

A couple of tips:
1. Brake Pressure should not be overlooked. At 95 to 100%, you may be reaching full braking and lock up in the first 1/4 of pedal movement. Lowering the brake pressure setting in the tuning menus allow for you to get deeper into the pedal before lock up and ultimately allows for more fine control of braking. I like to hit lock up about 3/4 or further into the pedal movement.

2. Steering Ratio has a similar affect on driving smoothly as the trick mentioned above for brake pressure. A higher number allows the wheel in your hands to move a further distance for the same amount of car wheel movement. If you drive a car that feels "darty" or overly aggressive on entry or oversteers at the slightest wheel movement, raise this number. Or on the other hand, if you find that you have to turn the wheel really far, so much so that you are crossing your hands, lower this number.

I have not tested, but would think that these two trick would also help D-pad controller users too?
Click to expand...

Hay Hami, thanks for this info regarding your Clubsport Hardware. I am finding that key to faster laptimes for me is also managing braking/turn-in/tire lock in pCars2. So I am definitley going to purchase the Clubsport base v2.5.........So what specific pedals (model/ver.) do you have and is the Load Cell you use the stock one that comes with the pedals or an aftermarket? Are there higher quality aftermarket load cells? I see a bunch of load cell replacements on eBay with hundreds being sold....is that because they wear out often? Cheers..........👍
 
Hi Hami. Think I saw somebody ask previously but don't recall seeing an answer from you.
These Pcars2 tunes you're making on PC, are they only for PC users or would they be compatible for PS4 console users also or not?
 
davidt33
Hi Hami. Think I saw somebody ask previously but don't recall seeing an answer from you.
These Pcars2 tunes you're making on PC, are they only for PC users or would they be compatible for PS4 console users also or not?
Click to expand...

I have read on the official Project Cars forum for Project Cars 1 that the game physics and therefore the tunes are universal. I own Project Cars 1 on both PC and XBOX One and found that to be true for the tunes I built there. I only have PC2 on PC.
 
kapnk006
Hay Hami, thanks for this info regarding your Clubsport Hardware. I am finding that key to faster laptimes for me is also managing braking/turn-in/tire lock in pCars2. So I am definitley going to purchase the Clubsport base v2.5.........So what specific pedals (model/ver.) do you have and is the Load Cell you use the stock one that comes with the pedals or an aftermarket? Are there higher quality aftermarket load cells? I see a bunch of load cell replacements on eBay with hundreds being sold....is that because they wear out often? Cheers..........👍
Click to expand...

I purchased both the Brake Damper Kit and the Brake Performance Kit. I would say don't waste your money on the Brake Damper Kit. I don't see much difference with that add on. I do highly recommend the Brake Performance Kit. It comes with six little cylindars of differing diameters and durometer or compound. You can customize the brake feel to your liking. I am using the O12 red and the O12 green which is the softest setup. I am thinking about going one harder on the green to make it more two stage feel or more progressive.

The other thing that is a must with the brakes is setting the brake pressure lower in the tune settings screen of the game. I try to move the wheel lock up point further down the pedal, closer to 3/4 of the way down or 7/8 of the way down. With the load cell, it creates much more smooth braking feel. I can just touch the brakes to scrub some speed and go deep into the pedal for the tighest corners, just as I do in real life.
 
Blood*Specter
OMG...........Thank you so much. I use their tutorials a lot. I didn't know they did Algarve! Wonderful!
Click to expand...
Yep, just in time for this game to come out. It helped me a ton.


Hami, could you do a GT3 car tune? Maybe the Huracan? I'm tired of the Ferrari winning all the GT3 races
 
Kart

Track: Dubi Kartdrome

Wheel: Tuned with ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5 and ClubSport Pedals V3 with damper and performance kit

Replica Tune: This is my first ever replica tune. This tune was not built and optimized to be the fastest it can be. I built it to mimic the actual carts at the Dubai Kartdrome. I have been to Dubai twice and have driven the karts on this very track. I love the Kartdrome. The last time I was there, I set the second fastest time of the day, behind a 25 year old who is in the Dubai royal family. His day job is as a driving instructor at the Dubai circuit and at night he stops by the Kart track and runs about ten sessions. On the day that I was there, I was told by the staff that he was training for the 24 hours of LeMans for a Porshe team and was getting as much track time as he could in a 12 hour period. He beat me by a ful second a lap.

This tune was made to be as realistic as I remember. The kart can lock its brakes and does kick a little sideways in the hairpin after going under the bridge. The kart can oversteer on exit, if you are not careful, especially on the back section of the track. Drag the brakes at just the right area and you'll be quick. Hit the fast left hander at just the right apex, without lifting, before going under the bridge and you'll be unstopable.

Tires/Brakes/Chassis
Soft Slick Front and Rear
0.85 Front Tire Pressure (Bar)
0.85 Rear Right Tire Pressure (Bar)
80% Brake Pressure
2.00 Front Downforce
2.00 Rear Downforce
42.0/58.0 Longitudinal Weight Bias

Suspension
8.0 Front Caster Angle
-0.5 Front Camber Angle (degrees)
30 Front Ride Height (mm)
12 Front Spring Rate (N/mm)
5.9:1 Steering Ratio
-0.1 Front Toe-In Angle (degrees)
7 Front Sway Bar (N/mm)

0.0 Rear Camber Angle (degrees)
30 Rear Ride Height (mm)
50 Rear Sway Bar (N/mm)

Dampers (front and rear)
0 Bump Stop (mm)
50 Bump Transition (N)
-50 Rebound Transition (N)

ECU/Engine/Gearing
10L Fuel
20.10mm Air Restrictor
0 Engine Braking

Gearing (default)
Final Drive 6.909
1st Gear 1.000

ECU
1% Traction Control
0% ABS Strength

Differential
Default
 
Motor City Hami
Kart

Track: Dubi Kartdrome

Wheel: Tuned with ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5 and ClubSport Pedals V3 with damper and performance kit

Replica Tune: This is my first ever replica tune. This tune was not built and optimized to be the fastest it can be. I built it to mimic the actual carts at the Dubai Kartdrome. I have been to Dubai twice and have driven the karts on this very track. I love the Kartdrome. The last time I was there, I set the second fastest time of the day, behind a 25 year old who is in the Dubai royal family. His day job is as a driving instructor at the Dubai circuit and at night he stops by the Kart track and runs about ten sessions. On the day that I was there, I was told by the staff that he was training for the 24 hours of LeMans for a Porshe team and was getting as much track time as he could in a 12 hour period. He beat me by a ful second a lap.

This tune was made to be as realistic as I remember. The kart can lock its brakes and does kick a little sideways in the hairpin after going under the bridge. The kart can oversteer on exit, if you are not careful, especially on the back section of the track. Drag the brakes at just the right area and you'll be quick. Hit the fast left hander at just the right apex, without lifting, before going under the bridge and you'll be unstopable.

Tires/Brakes/Chassis
Soft Slick Front and Rear
0.85 Front Tire Pressure (Bar)
0.85 Rear Right Tire Pressure (Bar)
80% Brake Pressure
2.00 Front Downforce
2.00 Rear Downforce
42.0/58.0 Longitudinal Weight Bias

Suspension
8.0 Front Caster Angle
-0.5 Front Camber Angle (degrees)
30 Front Ride Height (mm)
12 Front Spring Rate (N/mm)
5.9:1 Steering Ratio
-0.1 Front Toe-In Angle (degrees)
7 Front Sway Bar (N/mm)

0.0 Rear Camber Angle (degrees)
30 Rear Ride Height (mm)
50 Rear Sway Bar (N/mm)

Dampers (front and rear)
0 Bump Stop (mm)
50 Bump Transition (N)
-50 Rebound Transition (N)

ECU/Engine/Gearing
10L Fuel
20.10mm Air Restrictor
0 Engine Braking

Gearing (default)
Final Drive 6.909
1st Gear 1.000

ECU
1% Traction Control
0% ABS Strength

Differential
Default
Click to expand...

Was looking for a Kart tune. Since there are so few tunes available right now for Pcars2 Hami, far less Kart tunes, can this tune be used for other Kart tracks as well?
 
davidt33
Was looking for a Kart tune. Since there are so few tunes available right now for Pcars2 Hami, far less Kart tunes, can this tune be used for other Kart tracks as well?
Click to expand...

I am finding that a car's bad habits at one track are usually it's bad habits at all tracks. So, yes, it can be used for other tracks. Sometimes a different track may have a specific difficult corner that can be optimized but tunes seem to be working well across different tracks.
 
Motor City Hami
I am finding that a car's bad habits at one track are usually it's bad habits at all tracks. So, yes, it can be used for other tracks. Sometimes a different track may have a specific difficult corner that can be optimized but tunes seem to be working well across different tracks.
Click to expand...

Thanks Hami.

Just an observation and request now. Since you are a well respected and go-to tuner and the page will be growing with tunes added over time your tunes per car would become increasingly difficult to find scattered amongst the various posts.
Can you please set post #1 as an index page to include links to the tunes wherever they are posted (as with the first two links).
May I also suggest if or when you do so you insert the links by car in alphabetical order. The first page being built upon as an index (with links) by car in alphabetical order will make it much easier for followers to identify created tunes and click to find them rather than having to browse through all the pages which will certainly grow. Since you only have a few tunes right now it would be easier to presently add the links to page/post #1 and continue as time progresses. Could you please do that favour for your fans?
 
Last edited:
davidt33
Thanks Hami.

Just an observation and request now. Since you are a well respected and go-to tuner and the page will be growing with tunes added over time your tunes per car would become increasingly difficult to find scattered amongst the various posts.
Can you please set post #1 as an index page to include links to the tunes wherever they are posted (as with the first two links).
May I also suggest if or when you do so you post the links by car in alphabetical order. The first page being built upon as an index (with links) by car in alphabetical order will make it much easier for followers to identify created tunes and click to find them rather than having to browse through all the pages which will certainly grow. Since you only have a few tunes right now it would be easier to presently add the links to page #1 and continue as time progresses. Could you please do that favour for your fans?
Click to expand...

Will do. In time. Really busy with work in October and November.
 

Latest Posts

Back