Unfortunately the pinouts are different so you could end up frying something....
Why not get a USB adapter for the G25 / G27 Shifter / Pedals? Instead of buying an expensive one from Leo somewhere in Europe I have 9 left of the ones we make which are open hardware and software:
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...edals-usb-adapter.349367/page-2#post-11822513
That'll keep the momo and pedals safe.. The one down-side is for games that only support one controller at a time such as SpinTires but not many games do that... But, if they do you can use VJoy and UJR / UCR utility to map the wheel and usb unit together as a virtual ( force-feedback is being implemented and worked on by people for the utilities or you can code a C++ feeder and reroute all the force-feedback and have it work right away if you don't want to wait!
Edit: I have a Logitech Momo wheel ( BLACK ); make sure you know if yours is the earlier RED top / plastic or black top / plastic....
You'll need the wiring diagrams of both the momo and the g27... You'll want to buy a separate DB9 wire ( or, better yet since not all db9 wires have all the wires; buy the 2 ends on eBay so you can make a convertor from the G27 to plug into the Momo unit )...
Be careful, you could easily burn our your pedals maybe even the momo unit but it could be possible as long as they use the same potentiometers ( if not you may be able to calibrate or you may need to change resistors on the board )...
It can get quite involved...
Why not buy a logitech G27 wheel on eBay for $30 to $40 ( failure to calibrate ) unit? Those typically only need the encoder wheel to be replaced ( design flaw where the wheel cracks which causes it to slip, or it warps ) and buy a brass one for another $40... then you have a FANTASTIC wheel... Or you can simply crazy glue ( don't use heat gun or heat any where near the wheel ) and glue a tight fitting washer over the spindle portion and that'll fix the slipping too... for under $1... Worst case you need to re-solder some headers and maybe replace some components but their boards are pretty solid ( the design flaw from the momo exists in the G27 though where the shaking / vibrations go straight to the board without rubber stops which can cause the headers to come off the board and lift traces [ which is what happened to mine but I fixed it; going to sell it now though because of the 27! ] )
The difference between the momo and G27 is night and day... it really is worth it...
