My 3D printing journey

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neema_t

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That's before we even get into the servos and motors that would be required to make it operate.

This! You'd probably have to print yourself a steering rack and use a stepper motor because the weight would be too much for a typical servo, the motor would also probably have to be bigger and maybe geared to provide more torque or even just to slow it down, you'd need more battery capacity to drive it for a comparable time, etc. so the weight and complexity just snowballs until it gets to the point where you'd be better off building a real Lotus Seven kit car or something.
 

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Where do you keep getting all of these ideas?
So far, almost everything has just been downloaded and printed.

The SPACEBALLS: THE FLAME THROWER I'm designing from scratch 1) to see if I can and B) because it appears that no one has already.
You could start a business in selling ancient artefacts. :D
I haven't looked at the licensing on sites like Thingiverse but I'd just assumed that there's some wording in there about you not using them commercially. I could be wrong, though.
 

kikie

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I haven't said anything about my R/C idea after my initial question but it was not my intention to make a driving replica, only a big copy, a showcase so to speak.
I am aware that it is probably not possible to make this car ready to drive it remotely. I'm sure that if I don't make the car too big that the servos and the most powerful motor can handle it. The problem would be the shocks and the gears of the diffs and all other stuff that makes the car move (drive shaft etc)
TB
I haven't looked at the licensing on sites like Thingiverse but I'd just assumed that there's some wording in there about you not using them commercially. I could be wrong, though.
Oops, I was actually joking because selling 3D printed ancient artefacts would be fraudulent because 3D printed objects aren't ancient. :D

I should have had said to be more correct that "you could start a business in selling these 3D printed objects as ancient artefacts".
.
 

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it was not my intention to make a driving replica, only a big copy, a showcase so to speak.
That makes it a lot easier. If that's your intent, It would take time to get the design fine tuned (my grip by comparison is pretty simple) but it's doable.

- - - - -

Made some progress on the grip and would like some input.

As a refresher, this is the grip I'm (loosely) attempting to replicate:

f8U9Feo.gif


I'm not terribly concerned with it being perfect but I didn't want just a cylinder, either. Here is where I'm at right now:

Grip-Layout1.png

The red and blue dots are in the same place on all angles. The top view shows the curve I managed to get for the cut outs, it's not just a straight cut. Thoughts? Things I should adjust? Scrap it all and start over? :P
 

IfAndOr

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Not having seen the movie so going off the image it looks fairly similar to me. Perhaps the finger indents maybe aren't quite so deep on the movie one. It's also got a flat section at the bottom. It could be used to rest/stand it on possibly, so it would be the same depth as the rear of the 'throwers sticky down bit.
 

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It's also got a flat section at the bottom. It could be used to rest/stand it on possibly, so it would be the same depth as the rear of the 'throwers sticky down bit.
That was absolutely going to happen but I was waiting until I had the entire thing modeled so I knew what the angle would be.

I originally was copying a grip on Thingiverse that was more ellipsoidal but the movie version looks more rectangular instead. Might be starting over again. :lol:
 

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Been screwing around with a new venture the last few days.

I haven't liked the wall sconces in the theater room for a very, very long time but between being picky with what I'm looking for and being cheap, I haven't done anything.

Then I came across 3D printed lithophanes. They look amazing but like all things 3D printed, there's a bit of a learning curve. Finding suitable images is a piece of cake. Getting the slicer's settings correct takes a bit more work.

As I have four sconces and four people in the house, I asked them for one movie each. Armed with that, I picked one for the test runs.

First attempt - printed with the default settings which ended up being too thick.

20190518_213001.jpg

20190518_213103.jpg

Result: print quality was alright but no light shows through. Fail.

Second attempt - printed a lot thinner.

20190518_213016.jpg

20190518_213118.jpg

Result - print quality is TERRIBLE and while it let's light through, the cross hatching severely degrades "image" quality.

Third attempt - basically the same settings as the second, only printed vertically.

20190518_211434.jpg

20190518_213028.jpg

20190518_213136.jpg

Result - beautiful print and image quality! Downside, this was a 70 minute print and it's only 1/16 of the 6.75 inch square I need to cover the light. Meaning it's going to be roughly a 20 hour print. And I should probably slow the print down as it will be about 1/8" thick and standing 6.75" straight up the bed so it will be closer to 24 hours. What could possibly go wrong?!? :scared:

And then do it 3 more times! :lol:

Edit: Full 6.75" image set up and the slicer shows it at just over 10 hours. Guess I'll start it now and see how things went in the morning. I also read a tip that if you're printing something tippy, rotate it so it's parallel to the direction the bed travels to give it more stability.

Fingers crossed.
 

TB

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This doesn't look precarious at all.

20190519_061304.jpg

That's roughly 4" of the total 6.75. :ill:

Edit: I stopped the print. After tossing a flashlight behind it, I realized I should have changed the infill setting so there aren't lines all over the place where you can see the internal support. More worryingly, it was starting to curve to the right.

20190519_064554.jpg
 
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IfAndOr

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TB
This doesn't look precarious at all. Worryingly, it was starting to curve to the right
Would it be possible to add a couple of supports on the edges that could be cut off when finished? It would look like an "I" from above. Probably only need to be around 1/2 inch wide.
 

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Would it be possible to add a couple of supports on the edges that could be cut off when finished? It would look like an "I" from above. Probably only need to be around 1/2 inch wide.
I drew some 1/4" square i-beams 6.75" tall in AutoCAD. Positioning them is a bit trial and error because too far away and structurally they're pointless and too close, the slicer merges them in to one piece making separation later a pain. But in theory that should work.

I really need to stop messing around with new prints and get downstairs to glue, prime and paint...
 

IfAndOr

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Perhaps rotating it so the thicker part of the image is at the bottom might also help. Less weight to lean over then and it might give it a bit more rigidity.

TB
I really need to stop messing around with new prints and get downstairs to glue, prime and paint...
Ah, so it's like a full production process. The printing team work on the upper floor and then send the items down to the lower floor for the finishing team to complete. With TB being Team Both. :)
 

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I've been too busy with other things lately (namely the patio) to have worked with the printer but came across the CreawsomeMod and had to get it set up so it'll be ready the next time I print.



Skip to about 4:10 to see the difference in the software and/or 9:10 to see the difference in print quality.
 

Northstar

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Any pics of finished products yet? Or has that been designated a winter project?
 

TB

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A sheet of toilet paper?
No, I'm just going to use the filament straight off the roll like floss.

One hour in:

20200314_121334.jpg

Two hours (not happy the bed temp was too low and the corners lifted :irked:):

20200314_131238.jpg


Three hours:

20200314_141936.jpg


Four hours:

20200314_151654.jpg
 
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TB

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What are you using for bed adhesion, are you printing directly on the bed?
The hard drive on my desktop died so I had to use Cura on a different computer so all of my settings and temperatures are off. I'm pretty sure I have the temperature issues resolved as the lifting has stopped.

As for bed adhesion, I typically print with a raft but that has it's own batch of problems. I'm going to have to do some more research into settings so I can skip the raft.

- - - - -

The supports on the left side don't look precarious at all... :scared:

20200327_121850.jpg
 

TB

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Those suckers held on!

20200327_170242.jpg


I need to hunt down where I put the other tools but so far, it keeps the three things I use regularly in one place.

20200327_191123.jpg
 
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TB
The hard drive on my desktop died so I had to use Cura on a different computer so all of my settings and temperatures are off. I'm pretty sure I have the temperature issues resolved as the lifting has stopped.

As for bed adhesion, I typically print with a raft but that has it's own batch of problems. I'm going to have to do some more research into settings so I can skip the raft.

I try to avoid rafts and brim unless absolutely necessary. I have been lucky enough to call desktop 3D printers work for nearly 6 years now.. Co-own a business providing machines and materials for consumers and the industry alike. The Ender 3 is one of my favorites, when it comes to value for money you can't beat it really.

Two things that have come out the past couple of years; Magigoo, a solution to make parts stick to your build plate. Really great product. And magnetic buildplate for the Ender 3, part of the Ender 3 Pro upgrade if I recall correctly. Makes removing stubborn parts a breeze.

Don't know if many are printing face shields for healthcare workers in the US at the moment. Here in Norway it has been exploding after Prusa made their design available last week.
 

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I try to avoid rafts and brim unless absolutely necessary.
I was using a raft to make it "easier" to level the bed (I have a small depression in the middle). I started putting down a layer of painters tape which has helped but wasn't perfect. Recently I looked at some settings suggestions for Cura and one in particular has made a HUGE difference - increasing the Initial Layer Height. Prints are coming out fantastic now. :D

magnetic buildplate for the Ender 3
I did some looking on Amazon but the reviews are kind of hit and miss. And it looked like you had to glue a layer down to the bed first?
Don't know if many are printing face shields for healthcare workers in the US at the moment.
I've seen articles about it, obviously, but locally I haven't heard that there's a need. At least not yet. Unfortunately I fear it's only a matter of time as our cases keep climbing.

- - - - -

I'd been wanting to print one of these for a while so a few days ago I started a print that I had previously sliced to my SD card. When it finished, I took it out to the bike and it fit great. Snapped in place nice and tight, only a slight little bit of wiggle.

20200328_200712.jpg


Now I can ride the road bike with regular shoes if I'm just going to cruise with the kids. No need to get all geared up. Down side - quite slippery.

So I started printing its replacement this morning. A lot more potential for grip because of the nubs.

15856771511121464666359922027589.jpg


Except it didn't fit my pedal. :irked:

And in the process of getting the first one off, it snapped, which based on how tight it was getting it on, I'm not surprised.

15856773015711870306385455965292.jpg


So I'm working on the next one, this time it has the same tabs as the first, but with nubs like the second.

Should be best of both worlds!

Theoretically, anyway.
 
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Ohhhhhkaaaaay, I thought the print somehow didn't fit the printer.

What sort of dimensions are possible in a single print anyway? With that particular machine.
 

TB

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What sort of dimensions are possible in a single print anyway? With that particular machine.
Plus or minus, an 8.5 inch cube.

Semi-side note. I just ordered some ABS so I can print a few things for the Tacoma without having to worry about it melting in the summer like PLA would. :lol:

Now I'll need to build an enclosure for the printer because ABS is more temperamental when it come to temperatures.
 

BobK

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So at this point now that you've had it for a year, what is your opinion of the Ender3? Would you recommend it? Do you feel another printer in the $200 range might be better?