I dunno. I think a truck/SUV could be fun so long as you got the right one. Naturally I wouldn't take a Samurai to a track, but I know from experience that S-10s basically drive like Camaros if you have the right body style (I assume Rangers drive like Mustangs as well).
Of course, that is completely irrelevant to the topic at hand, but what have you.
Yes, a lowered S-10 can be great fun at a track. You need to get a link set up for the rear but other then that they handle surprisingly well. The only problem is the SCCA is a bit picky, as are some tracks about letting trucks and SUV's on them.
Oh and just to prove my point since someone is bound to say trucks are worthless race vehicles:
That was raced several times and did quite well.
Unless it's a "sports truck" per se, I wouldn't take it to the track... I've seen SUVs roll over when given a bit of performance driving... so while it's not impossible, per se, to drive a truck on track, you have to know pretty much what you're doing, and pick a good one. While I've driven trucks hard and once or twice on track, those were mostly new trucks with very stiff suspensions, moderately good to great grip, and little chance of a roll-over. With gibson's apparent budget, I doubt you could find an X5.
I didn't really know what I was doing and I raced the Blazer in a couple of autocrosses. It's not really that hard. The Blazer, while new on the outside, wasn't new by any means underneath using mostly components from 1983. All I had was basic lowering components and better tires on my truck.
Hmmm... are Syclones incredibly hard to find secondhand?
About $20K for a good example, about $15K for a beaten on one.
What about lowering an AWD blazer, with hte Autotrac awd. The autotrac has a limeted slip center diff. I can strip one of those down and use the parts on my truck.
They didn't make an AWD Blazer, the Bravada's came AWD though as were the Sy/Ty combo. Lowering the Bravada is a pain in the ass though. It can be done but wouldn't really make a great track vehicle since it weighs as much as a house.
The short shifter and flywheel are already on the list, believe me! I can stiffen the frame no problem, and these things get lowered all the time, so the suspension work doesn't bother me one bit, the weak 7 inch rear axle behind the pinto motor does though. So a 8.8 out of a for explorer with disk brakes and a 3.55 or 3.73 and limited slip, stock might I ad, would go behind it.
If you've never lowered a Ranger before I would strongly suggest getting help from someone who has as they are a pain as well to do. The twin I-beam is not lowering friendly, although it can be done. That Ranger you posted is going to have the twin I-beams and if you try and drop it with the I-beams in place your alignment is going to be wonky as hell.
Also depending on how much you want to drop the back you are going to need to flip the axle, another thing that is a royal pain to do unless you have a good idea what you are doing.
I've heard of guys putting Mustang suspension in their Rangers but never actually seen an example.